The RamaKrishna Mission
Institute of Culture Library

Presented by

Dr. Baridb^an Mukerji

KMXOIi— 8

NARRATIVE

OF

A WHALING VOYAGE

ROUND TilE GLOBE

I). HENNET'r.

1840.

GEORGE LEITH ROUPELL, M.D.,

FELLOW OF THE ROYAL COLLEGE OF PHYSICIANS,

PHYSICIAN I () ST. Bartholomew’s hospital,

ETC. ETC.

THESE VOLUMES

ARE INSCRIBED,

IN TESTIMONY OF THE VERY GREAT RESPECT

AND ESTEEM OK

THE AUTHOR,

I

S'T-

P [i E E A C E.

Tiik Voyage narrated in the ensuing pages was
undertaken, in the latter part of tlie year 1 833,
chic'll}', on my ])art, with a view to investigate
the anatojuy and habits of Soutliern Wliales,
and the mode of eondueting the Sperm Whale
Fishery, (a sul)je(;t then nntouehed hy the
literature of any country,) and to make as
many observations on the state of the Polyne-
sian, or other lands we might visit, and to col-
le(!t as many facts and examples in Natural
History, as opportunities might offer. For the
voyage was to he; one of adventure — the w'orld
was before us — and our destination was in-
volved in an agreeal^le uncertainty.

In (mmmunicating the result, it has been my
endeavour to take, as it were, my reader with
m(‘, that In; might see ''at I have seen and
hear what I have heard, and thus obtain the

Vi PREFACE.

same amount of information f have myself been
enabled to ac(iuire. To do so the more faith-
fully, it has been my wish to cast aside every
prejudiced or preconceived opinion, and to
avoid drawing hasty concdusions. This, I be-
lieve, is all that can be required from a voyager-
author ; and if I hate failed in the task, my
ability, and not my will, is in fault.

To all who look upon the [)ropagation of
civilized habits as a blessing to mankind in
genei’al, it must now be agreeable to remember
the despondent tone adopted by our celebrated
navigator, Captain Cook, wdien, but little more
than half a century ago. he described the
beauty and fertility of the islands of the Pacific
Ocean, and lamented, in hopeless sorroAv, that
no charm of lucre existed on their shores, to in-
duce refined nations to cull their produce and
introduce, in return, the comforts of civilized
life. How little could he have then .anticipated,
that, in a few years, numerous Hritish and
American fleets would be constantly traversing
that ocean, engaged in a lucrative commerce,
and incessantly visiting those islands, and hold-
ing friendly intercourse with their inhabitants !
Or, how little could he then foresee the noble
spirit of philanthro])y, which would so soon

VREFA.CK. vn

actuate his countrymen to depute many of their
number to reside with this i)eople of a new
world, and pave the way for raising them to the
rank of civilized nations. The gleanings 1 have
brought from Polynesia may not, therefore, be
unacceptable, although many more able labour-
ers have been busy on the same field. (Changes
are yearly occurring in that region of the globe,
which cannot but prove interesting to the phi-
lantliropist ; and Nature has endowed those
islands with gifts which will long demand our
closest scrutiny.

Should the appended description of the Sperm
Whale fishery appear too minute, the apology I
must offi'r for it is, that while I wished to make
that (lesci'iption thoroujhy I have felt that some
such tribute is due to the Whaler, that he
might aj)pear to the world in his time position.
By the uninitiated, he is too often regarded its
ignorant, and of a degraded caste ; whereas, in
fact, his occupation is one of extreme anxiety
and trial, requires considerable talent and
energy for its projjer performance, and is, with-
out exception, the noblest branch of our mer-
chant-navy ; since, in the absence of war, it is
the best adapted to display the (’ourage, perse-
verance, and enterprising spirit of British sea-

IMIKFACK.

VIll

men, in tlieir truest and brightest colours. The
national iniportunee of the service, in a (!om-
niereial point of view, none can he hold enough
to question.

Tlu' (!ollection of ohjeets in Nattiral History
brought to this country l)y the Tuscan; consisted
of 7'ld dried specimens of plants, illustrating
the vegetation of the lands visit(;d, and
pre})arations of animals, most of which arci rare,
and many of them unique*. The ])rinci])al ])art
of the botanical collection is now in tlu* pos-
session of A. B. Lambert, Esep and Professor
Don. 1’he zoological 1 have de])osited in the
Hunterian jMuseum of the Royal ('ollege* of
Surgeons in London.

To daptain Stavers and the officers of the
Tuscan, I feel a })leasure in acknowh-dging deep
obligations for their extreme kindness towards
me during the ordeal of so long a voyage*, as
well as for tlieir voluntary, vahiable, and indis-
pensable aid in furthering my in(|uiries.

Kknt Koad.
April i'4, JS 4 O.

P. 1). HENxNKTI’.

riiAPrKK [.

Depaiimv tVoiii Mn^'land — .\ia(l(‘ira — fliouonuMioii of a wind-
gal!," or •' sun-<ioo- " — A tonijH'St — Marino igaiis-fatiins, or

St, Fdnio's lin‘ ('aptiin* a P)laok-tisli — Soo tlu* tir>t Spt'rui

\\dial(‘s — ('aim on tlu‘ l‘a|ua1or — Moral (‘Hoots of a calm on
vovauiM’s -I /mo-(‘urr('nts — 'riioir doniz(‘ns — Tlio dving dol-
phin -Sooond (moounttn* with Spi'rm W'hah'S — Its n'sidts—
llrazil-hank— 'Passag(‘ round ('apo Horn — ()('(‘ani(‘ birds—
Voracity of tlu' albatross — Motlnn* (’arc'v's chiclu'ns —
Poron’s dolphin— Ic(‘-i<lands — Parh(‘lion, or ‘•mock-sun”--'
h'hx's of Salpa* - Sp(‘ak a k'n'iich right-whaler— P.xtra-
ordinarv assc'inhlag'o of oc(‘anic l)irds — rnnsiially ])hospho-
roscont state of the sea — Ijs causes ascertained by the
capture of nond('scri])t luminous UK'dusa' and fish*— A
“lone” wliale in sight — Visit (loat Island — Juan Fernandez

I

( llAP'rFP IF

Visit Pitcairn Island — Bounty Bay- -Beci'ption by tin* Inha-
bitants — D('scriptioii of the Island and its population — Isa-
b(‘lla (’hrislian — Susan (’hristian — Physical, social, and

X

CONTI-: NTS.

moral state of the natives— Climate — vSalubrity of the soil —
Historical notice of the Island and its present occupants —
Mutiny of the Bounty — Fate of tht‘ mutineers and their
Polynesian companions — Biop^raphical notice of the Patriarch
Adams — Emigration of the Pitcairnians to 'Fahiti — Its dis-
astrous results — Their retuni, and condition in 1834 — Re-
flections — Hospitality of the islanders — Proceed on our
voyage — Facts comu'cted with the presumed prior existence
of an aboriginal race on Vitcairn Island . 25

(MIAPTER HI.

See Maitea — Visit Tahiti — (ieneral descri])tion of tlie island—
The (iuava-tree — Native villages and dwc'llings — ^March of
civilization — -Commercial stale and prospects of the island- —
Laws and governuK'nt — Pedigree of tht‘ reigning family —
The Queen Aimata — Revolution of 1831 — Its (‘ift'cts —
Religious, moral, and physical condition of the natives—
Present state' of the Missionaries — Tmda fftphftr, or wild
men — C'limate —Natural productions . . 59

(41APTER 1\.

Ix'ave Taliiti— Visit Hniatea — Scenerv of its coast— Our n'-
ception by the native's — He'seription of the' Island —Its coral
formations — He‘e*fs — Ree'f-aperl lire's — 'Fhe'ir cause's ('onsi-
dered — IVeadiaritie's anel be'autie's eif the shore-re'i'fs — Motus
■ — ^Their charae'ter and apparent origin --'Fide's — Ane-heirage's
— Settlement at Ctuinaoro — Division and cultivation of the
land— Native dwellings —I'litile' atte'mpts of the' missieinarie's
to improve' them — Publie* huileling’s — Pre'se'ut state- of the'
inhabitants — 'Flu'ir moral and physical e'haracte'r (Ue)thing
— Oniainents — Imod — Bane'ful ('fleets of the' abuse of ardent
spirits— -/V/-tumours — Native' mode's of fishing — Divided
occupations of tlie' se-vos ... 89

t;C)NT I '.NTS,

XI

CHAPTER V.

Commerce — Navy — Spiritual state of the natives — (ireat Morai
of Opoa — Progress of Education amongst the })eopl(‘ — Ta-
matoa II— T 'amatoa Vahine — The Queen Dowager, Mahama
— ^Defensive state of th(‘ Island — -The late war with Borabora
—Tara, Chief of Tubuai — His wife Biitd(‘ — Her courage in
th(‘ field — ^Ri'liques of anc,i(‘nt swigs and dances — Musical
taste of the natives— Primitive da nc(‘s— Peculiarities of the
'Fahitian language— Its written form — Exainph^s — Eccentric
names of persons — ('om])arativ(‘ d(*artl\ of population — Its
causes considi'red — Half-castes — Deplorably disiTised state
of the natives — h r /c, or bdejibantiasis — Other native di-
sease's — Their cause's and eifects — Parturition and inanage-
menit of infants — 'Flu' Uaiate'ans cemtagionists " — Native

n'lne'dies — Albinos, or Pupnro . . E‘]l

( IIAP'FER VI.

lAteiision e)f the' N. W . monsoon to e'aste'rn Polynesia— Climate
of Raiatea — ?ilete'e)ric phenomenon eluring a thunder-storm at
Ctumaoro-- Natural productions of the island — 'Terns —
lu*igate-])irels — Tropic-birds - -Sliarks — Scorpmua anteamata
— 'Furtle'— -Violalion of an ancient royal privile'ge*- re-garding
th('m — Wati'r-snakes — Eizarels - -Crustace'a — Se'cre'live habits
eif a sjie'cies of Ilyas — Calappa tuberculata — Hermit-crabs—

Prawns Land-crabs — Se'a-ureduns — Description of a kind

possessing an oftensive power — Star-fish- -Turbo se'tosus —
Water-clam- — Be'che-ele-me'r, or seai-slug— -The flower-animal,
Diazona — Se^a-anemonies — 'Fhe'ir pe'culiar changes of coleiur
— Insects — Their increase on these Islands— 'Fhe squeaking-
cockroach- —Spe'ctre mantis — Ve'getatiou — Botanical know-
leelge of the natives -Cie'ological observations . 159

CHAPTER VII.

Hospitable custom of the Uaiateans — ^Departure — Passage to
the Sandwich Islands — Remarks on Sailors’ fare and sailors’
tastes — Gale on the Equator — Historical notice of the Sand-
wich group — General description of Oahu — Harbours and an-
chorages — Coral-reefs — Tides — Eort-hill and Diamond-hill,
extinct craters — Valleysk — Their situation and scenery — De-
scription of the Pari at Anuanu — VVatertall — Native tradition
concerning it — Town of Honoruru — Present state of the
native population — Manufacturt's — Recan'ations — Progress
of Christianity — American Missionaries — Observance of
Church ordinances — Mourning for the dead — Aboriginal
Tiiode of disposing of tbe dead — Peculiarities of the Ha-
waiian dialect — Progress of education amongst the na-
tives . . . . . .186

CHAPTER VIII.

Historical notice of the royal chiefs of I lawaii — Account of
the reigning sovereign, Kauikeaouli — The Princess Tabu

Nahiennaena — Inct*stuous privilege of the royal family

State of the government — Military — Police — Laws and Pe-
nalties — Navy — ( hmmerce — Foreign residei 1 1 s — Jea 1 ousy of
the natives — Account of the late Mr. John Young, the

Patriarch of Hawaii — Miiiini, Father of the Foreigners ”

Half-castes — The late Isaac Davies — Particulars of his cap-
ture and detention by the .Sandwich Islanders — Du])licity of

Tamchanieha — Meet the crew of a, Japanese junk at Oahu

Their adventures and disasters — Diseases of the Islanders

Native physicians — The remedies they employ — Decrease of
population — Its causes considered — Physical eflects of civili-
sation — Climate — Natural productions — 'Fhe aboriginal, or
poe dog — Exotic breed of oxen — Birds — Uses to which
their plumage is aj)plied by the natives — Plovers The

CONTENTS.

xiii

Sandwich Island Croose — Fish — Chnistaeea — Teredo navalis,
or “ ship-borer ” — Insects — The Sphinx pungens — Native
mode of capturing it — Indigenous and exotic vegetation 227

CHAPTER IX.

Departure from Oahu— Cruise to the northward — Effects of
a current — Capture Sperm Whales — Nondescript oceanic
birds — Curious illustration of an ornithological fact — Speak
an American South-Seaman — Arrival off Quc(m Charlotte’s
Islands — Return to the southward — Health of the crew' —
Whaling operations — Albacore — Flying squid — Floating
oceanic shells — Panic amongst the albacore assembled near
the ship — The sword-fish — Extraordinary accident to the
South-Seaman Foxliound — Return to the Sandwich Islands —
Visit Maui — General description of the island and its inha-
bitants — Second visit to Oahu — Revolt of the chiefs against
the crown — Visit of H. R. M. S. Challenger — Execution of
two natives for tlu' murder of a British subject — Death of
Mr. David Douglas, the (‘Uterprising traveller — Departure —
Description of three Marquesans, natives of Roa})oa — Island
of Guadaloupe — Arrival off (’ape St. Lucas — Remarkable
plienomeiion of a luminous sea — Whaling operations — (kip-
ture a pelican — Duncan's Island — Animated pursuit of
Sperm Whales — x'irrival at Santa Christina, Marquesas
grou}) ...... 2h7

CHAIH'EH X.

Account of the Marquesas group — Description of Santa Chris-
tina — Native huts — Population of the island — Physical
character of the people — 'fheir attire and ornaments — Their
moral character — Food — Eating-houses set apart for the
men — Public ban(|uets to celebrah^ the bread-fruit harvest —
Diseases of the natives — I’orm of governmeiir — Eutiti, chief

of Vaituliu — Temples dedicated to the children of royal
chiefs — Spiritual state of the people — Extent of missionary
exertions amongst them — Prospects of the pnisent resident
missionaries — Aboriginal marriage customs — Disposal of the
dead — Wars — Defensive state of the valleys — ^Recreations
of the islanders — Their songs — Peculiarities of the Mar-
quesan dialect — Capabilities of tlio soil — Native manufac-
tures — Canoes — Advantage's the island offers for the re-
freshment of ships — Necessary precautions to be taken by
the commanders of vessels — Instances of the treachery and
ferocity of the’ Marquesan natives — Natural productions of
the island ...... 297

CHAPTER XL

Leave Santii Christina — Visit Roapoa — Its position — Anchor-
ages — C’oast scenery — The ship visited by natives — Land
our Marquesan passengers — Departure — Second visit to
Raiatea — Death of Mr. Loxton — Altered condition of the
islanders — Their moral and physical degradation by the
abuse of ardent spirits — .Journey to the summit of a moun-
tain, to investigate some natural phenomena described by the
natives — Island of Tahaa — (Jeological observations — Depar-
ture from’ Raiatea — ^ Visit Maurua — Beauties of its lagoon-
vvater — Trade with the natives — General description of the
island and its inhabitants— Natural productions of the soil —
Its geological character — Tubui, or Motu-iti — Visit Caro-
line* Maud — Send, two boats on shore — Discover a boat
entrance into the lagoon — l^orm and structure of the island —
Its natural productions — Snowy terns — Boobies — Peculiar
species of shark — Hermit-lobsters — Vegetation — Quit the
lagoon by the reef-aperture — Hazardous situation of the
boat ...... 346

CONTEXTS.

XV

(CHAPTER XII.

Visit Christmas Island — Its discovery and position — Form
and structure of the land — Natural productions — Peculiar
species of Booby — Tropic-birds — Eggs of the Snowy tern
— Vegetation — Increase of cocoa-nut palms — Discover a low
coral island — Cruise to the northward — Hazardous naviga-
tion in the North Pacific Ocean — A vertical sun — Whaling
operations — Part of the crew suffer from eating salted alba-
core — Remarks on “ poisonous fish ” — Return to Oahu —
Marriage of Tabu Nahiennaena — Collection of a poll-tax —
Description of the salt-pond at Moiinnroa — Increasing com-
merce of the port of Honoruru . . .379

NARRATIVE

OF

A WHALING VOYAGE

ROUND THE GLOBE.

^ (JhxmAV lJt,

CHAPTER 1.

Departure from England — Madeira — Phenomenon of a
wind-gall,’’ or sun-dog” — A tempest — Marine ignis-
fatuus, or St. Elmo’s fire* — Capture a Black- fish — See
the first Sperm Whales — Calm on the ‘Equator — Moral^
effects of a calm on voyagers — Line-currents — their deni-
zens — The dying dolphin — Second encounter witli-
Sperm Whales — Its results — Bjrazil-bank — Passage
round Cape Horn — Oceanic birds — Voracity of the
albatross — Mother Carey’s chickens — Peron’s dolphin
— Ice-islands — Parhelion, or mock-sun” — Eloes of

Saipan — Speak a French right-whaler — Extraordinary
assemblage of oceanic birds — Unusually phosphorescent
state of the sea — Its cause ascertained by the capture of
nondescript luminous medusaB and fish — A lone”
whale insight — Visit Goat Island — Juan Fernandez.

October 17, 1833, The ship Tuscan, of 300
tons burden, T. R. Stavers, commander, (in
which I was embarked,) sailed from the port of
London on a whaling expedition to the Pacific
Ocean.

It is not very usual for ships engaged in

VOL. I.

K

2

A WHALING VOYAGE

this service to take charge of passengers ; but,
on the present occasion, our party was agreeably
increased by three ministers of the London
Missionary Society, Messrs. Loxton, Rodgerson,
and Stolworthy, who, together with the wives
of the two first-named gentlemen, were destined
for the islands of the Marquesa and Society
groups.

Adverse winds, occasioning a detention of
six days at Portsmouth, did not permit us to
clear the British Channel until the 29th, when
we launched into blue water,* and continued

* Few Englishmen, who have not extended their nau-
tical excursions to more than a hundred miles beyond the
mouth of the British Channel, can form any correct idea
of the appearance the sea presents throughout the greatest
portion of the globe ; or how little applicable is the term

sea-green,’' when the shallow and troubled waters of
our own coasts are exchanged for the clear and deep-blue
bosom of fathomless oceans. In the latter, the vast ex-
panse of fluid presents one uninterrupted field of a lapis
lazuli tint; (the tiltra-marine of painters;) and its lifting
waves, crested with foam, bear a close resemblance to robes
of the richest purple, edged with swansdown or fine lace.

This intense blueness of the ocean has been ascribed to
the salts of iodine contained in sea-water ; but it is more
probable that the blue of our atmosphere, or sky, and that
of the deep sea, have both the same origin ; namely, the
clearness and vast accumulation of their respective ele-
ments.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

3

an undeviating course to the southward and
westward.

A few hours after we had lost sight of the
British coast, a flock of goldfinches, fFringella
carduelis,) driven off the land by some previous
heavy gales, took refuge on the ship, and con-
tinued with us for two or Ihree days. As every
unusual appearance must have its meaning, this
was regarded as a good omen by our crew.

At noon on the 6th of November, the moun-
tain land of Madeira bore from us S. S. E.,
distant twelve miles. We passed sufficiently
close to its coast to observe the general aspect
of tlie country, its houses, and cultivated lands ;
but at the same time incurred the penalty of
a calm, which delayed us until the following
morning.

While thus detained, we noticed the phe-
nomenon named by nautical men a “ wind-gall,”
(query, “wind-gale?”) or “sun-dog;” — abroad
and perpendicular streak of iridescent colours,
placed opposite the sun, and extending from a
dark cloud to the verge of the horizon. It may
be considered to be a fragment of a rainbow ;
though its colours are much less delicate and
diversified than those of the ordinary meteor of
that name, and chiefly consist of a lurid-red, or
copper-colour, and a bright olive-green, dividing

4

A WHALING VOYAGE

the column vertically and in nearly equal pro-
portions. Sailors consider its appearance a pre-
cursor of foul weather; nor had we, in this
instance, any reason to doubt the correctness
of their conclusion ; since the succeeding night
brought a heavy gale of wind, attended with
thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain; and
the presence of an ignis fatuus * on the summit
of each mast-head, gleaming with its peculi.ar
sickly and supernatural light.

Upon entering the northern tropic, the mo-
notony of a voyage across the Atlantic was
somewhat relieved by the appearance of a school
of small whales, or Blackfish, (Phoaena Sp.,J
spouting and gamboling on the surface of the

* These mysterious meteors, so frequently observed
during a thunder-storm at sea, have invariably a globular
form, are about the size of a tennis-ball, and emit a pale-
blue light. They occasionally appear to pass rapidly
from one part of the ship to another, or to drop from the
mast-head to the yards beneath, remaining stationary on
each for a few moments. Many names have been given
to them. When one only is visible it is called Corpo
Santo, or St. Helena ; when two. Castor and Pollux ;
and more, Tyndaridm, or St. Elmo’s fire. It is probable
that their origin is to be found in the efiectsof evaporation ;
for, however much the atmosphere may have been sur-
charged with electricity, during tempests at sea, I have
never observed them but as attendants upon rain.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

5

sea. They were very numerous, and easily ap-
proached by the boats lowered in pursuit of
them. Three were harpooned. One, however,'
escaped by the harpoon drawing ; the second
sunk immediately after death ; but the third,
which was secured without misadventure, was
brought to the ship and taken upon deck
entire. It measured sixteen feet in length ; and
produced about thirty gallons of oil for the use
of the ship’s company.

On the 14th of November we felt the first
influence of the N. E. trade-wind, in lat, 21“ N. ;
and at noon on the 16th came in sight of the
island of St. Antonio, of the Cape de Verd
group, passing it to the eastward, at the dis-
tance of twenty-six miles.

In lat. 9“ N., long. 23“ W., (where the acces-
sion of calms and light airs denoted that we had
exceeded the limits of the N. E. trade-wind,) a
school of sperm whales was first observed, and
announced by the usual exclamations. A strong
excitement instantly pervaded the entire crew ;
an animating scene of bustle and activity en-
sued ;* and in a few minutes the boats were low-

* On these occasions, something like the following ex-
pressions are heard from the look-out at the. mast-head and
the commander and others on deck. There she spouts !
— There she hlov-o-os! — Whereaway? — Two points on

0

A WHALING VOYAGE

ered and spread over the ocean in pursuit of
their prey, leaving the ship almost tenantless
"^nd deserted. The whales had been alarmed at
the approach of the ship, and proved particu-
larly watchful and timid. One individual, how-
ever, was approached by a boat as it lay motion-
less on the water, in the act of listening, and
before it could take the alarm received two har-
poons in its body, and was subsequently des-
patched by the lance in little more than ten
minutes. The dead cachalot (which was a
female of adult size) was brought to the ship,
when the operation of “ cutting in” was imme-
diately commenced, and completed in three
hours.

To obtain oil at so early a period of the
voyage greatly exhilirated the spirits of the
crew, and naturally led them to antici])ate a
short and prosperous voyage. Nor had our

the lee-bow, sir, a school of whales. — Brin^;, up the glass,
hoy. — Aye, aye, sir. — How far off do you see them ? —
About four miles, sir. — Back the main-yard ; brail up
the trysail. — There she blow-o-s ! — Tli-e-r-e again ! —
Flukes ! — (An expectant pause ensues, and all are intent
to discover the next rising.) — There she breaches! —
There she blow-o-s ! — Th-e-r-e a-gain 1 — on the lee-quar-
ter.— .Get your boats ready for lowering. — Th-e-r-e
a-gain ! — Lower away ! I see there is a large whale
amongst them that wants a passage to London.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

7

missionary passengers any reason to be other-
wise than pleased with the result, since it re-
lieved them from the suspicion of being “un-'
lucky people ; an odium a sailor is always
inclined to attach to religious professors, of
whatever persuasion.

A continuance of calms or light and variable
airs detained us a few degrees north of the
equator for ten days, during which the weather
was oppressively sultry, and rain of very fre-
quent occurrence. Of all the minor inconve-
niences attending a journey by sea, a protracted
calm is certainly the most annoying both to
sailors and landsmen. Whatever length of time
a passage may occupy, if the motion of the ship
is rapid, it is endured with patience ; whilst, on
the other hand, but a few successive days of
perfect calm appear as a tedious century, and
destroy the equanimity of the most resigned
voyager. On those who have not the inclination
to resort to intellectual pursuits to beguile their
time, the affliction falls with greater force.
With them the ship becomes at once a floating
illustration of the Castle of Indolence, where

“ Labour only was to pass the time ;

And labour sore it was, and weary woe.”

This usually indolent period, however, was not
entirely so with our small community. The

8

A WHALING VOYAGE

boats were frequently lowered to exercise their
respective crews ; gnd the decks daily exhibited
the busy occupations of many artisans.

The sea, also, at this time, presented a very
animated appearance, owing to the currents
which prevailed thus near the line, as well as to
the calm that lay on the surface of the deep
and rendered all natural marine objects more
distinctly visible. Sharks, attracted probably
by the late effusion of blood, were numerous
around us ; and many examples of the albacore
or tunny, (Scomber Thynmts,) and dorado, or
“ dol})hin ” of sailors, ( Coryphicna hippuris^)
were taken by hook and line, or by the barbed
spikes of the “ granes.”

The changes of hue displayed by the dying
“ dolphin ” arc peculiar ; but have been much
exaggerated by the poeti(;ai descriptions of tra-
vellers. Soon after the fish has been removed
from the water, the bright yellow with rich blue
spots, which constitutes the normal colour of
the animal, is exchanged for a brilliant silver,
which, a short time after death, passes into a
dull-gray, or lead-colour. The original golden
hue occasionally revives in a partial manner,
and appears above the silver field, producing a
very interesting play of colours ; but the diver-
sity of tints is not greater than I have described.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

9

When off the east coast of Brazil, in lat. 22"
S., long. 35° W., we experienced a gale from the
N. W., which had the effect of bringing about
the ship many land birds and lepidopterous in-
sects. Among those we captured was a small
heron, (Ardeola, or “ })addy-hird" of Bengal,)
with cinnamon -coloured plumage ; and a large
moth, the Hydaspus Jatroph(£ of Fabricius.

December 24. — In lat. 38° S., long. 51° W., a
party of sperm whales was seen from the mast
head, and the boats lowered in pursuit. One of
the sdvool, moving slowly through the water,
and conspicuous for his large size, was selected
as the object of atta(;k, and successfully har-
pooned. The creature plunged violently upon
being pierced with the weapon, and, setting off
swiftly with the attached boat, was not destroyed
until after a conflict of nearly five hours’ dura-
tion.

The barometer having fallen in twenty- four
hours from 30‘10 to 29'60, and other indications
of an approaching storm being observed, some
anxiety was felt to preserve the valuable prize
that had been obtained with so much labour.
The body of the cachalot was disposed of the
same evening; but the approach of night did
not permit the same care to be taken of the
head, which was, consequently, left floating

10

A WHALING VOYAGE

astern, secured by a strong hawser to the
capstan.

The night brought a furious gale from the
S. W., with a sea running so high that it became
necessary to cast off the head of the whale, both
to ease the ship, and to avoid the danger which
might result from the waves setting such a
weighty mass against her stern.

On the 26 th the wind moderated ; but the
sea remained turbulent, and presented the
green hue of soundings, marking the extent to
which the “ Brazil bank” stretches forth in an
easterly direction from the American continent.
The temperature of this tract of discoloured
water was much higher than that of the sur-
rounding atmosphere ; and communicated to
the hands immersed in it a very agreeable sen-
sation of warmth.

Many ocean birds of the high south latitudes
were now visible around us, as nellies (Procel-
laria gigantea); blue-petrels, or sperm-birds
(Prion pachyptilaj ; pintados, or cape-pigeons ;
and pios, or cape-hens (Diomedia fuliginosa);
with several other species of the albatross
family. Among the number of these birds we
captured by hook and line, baited with fat meat,
was a kind of petrel, which has not been de-

ROUND THE GLOBE.

11

scribed by our ornithologists. In size* and
blackness of plumage, beak, and legs, it bears a
close resemblance to the sooty-petrel (Procel-
laria fuliginosa); but it is distinguished from
that species by white bands encircling the head
and throat in the form of a bridle.

The wandering albatross CDiomedia exulans),
often appeared to us in the very gray garment
that eharacterises the young bird ; while most
of the adult specimens we obtained displayed a
vertical line of delicate rose-coloured plumage
on each side of the neck ; a peculiarity which I
had never observed in the many examples of
this bird I bad in former voyages procured off
the Cape of Good Hope.

We witnessed an amusing instance of the
voracity of this species. A slip of porpoise
blubber, that could not have weighed less than
three or four pounds, had been thrown over-
board and was floating on the sea, when it was
pounced upon by a large albatross, and although,
as we watched the result, it appeared impossi-
ble that the bird could manage such a bulky
morsel, with a few moments’ strenuous exertion
he contrived to swallow it entire. Although

* Length twenty- three inches ; expanse of wing four
feet seven inches.

12

A WHALING VOYAGE

unable to rise from the water after the under-
taking, he continued to swim pertinaciously in
pursuit of a hook and line, baited with the same
tempting food, and only escaped being cap-
tured by the hook breaking in his beak.

Stormy-petrels were frequently about the
ship, skimming over the waves in their peculiar
rapid flitting manner; every moment dipping
to the sea and raising a slight splash on its sur-
face, then rebounding to renew their mazy flight
through the air. There is something very in-
teresting in these little birds — they appear too
diminutive and feeble to brave the vicissitudes
of the open ocean, and yet are always so active
and merry on the wing, both in rough weather
and in calm ; they are, however, more inclined to
take shelter from a veiy severe temjiest than
other sea-fowl, and are as commonly met with
on the equator as in the cold climates of high
north and south latitudes. The opinion that
tlieir ap])earanee is indicative of a storm is not
correct; and has probably. arisen from the cir-
cumstance of their occasionally approaching a
ship for shelter during t|ie^ violence of a gale.
Sailors seldom injure the stormy-petrel. It is
true they have not often an ojijiortunity afforded
them of doing so ; for these birds are not easily
shot at sea, and it is yet more difficult to entrap

ROUND THE GLOBE.

13

them. I have met with a veteran tar who once
in his life had killed a “Mother Carey’s chicken,”
as it fluttered for refuge from the tempest under
the lee of his vessel, and he always spoke of the
event with unaffected contrition.

Large shoals of that rare dolphin, Delphimis
Peronii, were seen sporting in the ocean as we
advanced to the southward. It is a species pe-
culiar to this region ; and differs essentially
from the common dolphin in being coloured
black and white in nearly equal proportions, and
in being totally destitute of any appendage, or
fin, on the back : from this last peculiarity it is
named by seamen the “ right whale porpoise.”

On the 4th of .January, 1834, the ship passed
within six miles of an iceberg floating on the
sea, in lat. 47" S., long. 57|" W. It was of
square form, and bad a small conical hummock
attaciied to its base. The summit was level ;
but in some points of view the effects of refrac-
tion caused it to appear as an inclined plane.
It had a dazzling whiteness, and seemed to be
covered with snow. The circumference of the
berg was estimated at between three and four
hundred feet, and its height at fifty ; but, to
judge from its shape, it is probable that little
more than a sixth of its actual bulk was visible
above the surface of the ocean.

14

A WHALING VOYAGE

Floating ice -islands are not unfrequently seen
in this latitude, and the uncertainty of their
situation requires that ships should keep a strict
night-watch to avoid them. During the winter
season they remain consolidated with the frozen
lands whence they originate ; and it is not until
the summer of the south that they drift into the
lower latitudes, and intrude upon the ordinary
tracks of shipping. Many penguins, and divers,
were at the same time observed swimming on the
water ; their home being either the iceberg, or,
with more probability, the Falkland Islands, from
which we were now distant about a day’s sail.

January 14. — Attained our highest south
latitude, namely, 58“ 33', in long. 69“ W. ; when,
being to the S. W. of Caj)e Horn,"*" and in the
Pacific Ocean, the ship’s course was altered to
the N, W. Although the season was midsum-
mer, we found the temperature of this region
unpleasantly low ; — showers of snow and sleet

The ivslaiid at the southerumost extremity of the
American continent, and known as Cape Horn,^’ is
placed in lat, 55^^ 38' SO" S., long. 21' 1 1" VV. Its
name is derived from the Dutch galliot Horne, com-
manded by Wilhelm Schouten, and engaged in an expe-
dition under the direction of Jacob le Maire, in the
Eendracht; when the latter vessel rounded tliis cape, and
gave to it the name of her consort — the Horne having been
previously burned in Port Desire, December 19, 1G15.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

1.5

were frequent ; and winds from the southward
brought with them the piercing coldness of a
frosty day in the winter of England ; a state of
atmosphere which was strangely contrasted with
the extreme length of the days. The barometer,
also, maintained a very low grade, on no occa-
sion marking 30, and often falling to 29'20,
without any accession of foul weather. Towards
sunset, the sky to the southward occasionally
presented the white and luminous reflection
termed ice-sky,” or “ ice-blink.”

On the evening of the 1 7th, the sun, setting
behind a dark cloud-bank, cast a lovely ver-
milion tint over numerous small and higher
nebulcC ; while immediately over the spot of its
descent was pictured a very perfect parhelion,
or “ mock-sun,” at the height of about four de-
grees above the horizon. It presented the ap-
pearance of a small orb of deep red colour ; and
continued visible, with various gradations of
brightness, for fifteen minutes.

January 19. — We rounded Cape Horn, or at-
tained to the northward and westward of its
promontory; and continued our route to the
northward, off the coast of Patagonia.

In lat. 48" S., long. 80" W., the surface of the
ocean presented extensive fields of a red colour,
which proved to be formed by myriads of me-

16

A WHALING VOYAGE

dusse, of the genus Salpa. As we passed
through the coloured water we captured vast
quantities of these creatures. They were one
inch in length, of broad and flattened form,
transparent, and had a violet tint, resembling
glass delicately stained with the oxide of manga-
nese. When placed in a vessel of sea water,
they moved actively, with a darting or jirking
motion ; and upon being held in the hand, exhi-
bited, incessantly, the peculiar pulsating action
of the sides of the body by which they propel
themselves through the ocean. A very large
flock of small sea-birds, resembling stormy-
petrels, hovered over this tract of animated
water, and occasionally alighted on its surface.

In the vicinity of this spot we spoke the
French ship Mississipi, of Havre, cruising in
search of the southern true-whale. It was
looked upon as an unusual circumstance that
her master was a Frenchman ; the few whale-
ships sent out from the ports of France being
mostly commanded by Americans. Her crew,
with the tact peculiar to their nation, were
busily occupied in preparing complicated messes
from the legs of the albatross, which they had
captured in great numbers. We had ourselves,
indeed, attempted a similar dish, prepared after
the receipt of Captain Cook ; but, although the

ROUND THE GLOBE.

IT

flesh of this bird is not decidedly objectionable
in flavour, we found it somewhat tough, and not
altogether so good as to induce to a repetition
of the experiment.

In the afternoon of the same day, the sea, for
some distance astern of the ship, was literally
covered with aquatic birds, chiefly of the alba-
tross family. Their number could not be esti-
mated at less than some thousands. They had
apparently been attracted to the spot by some
oily matters floating on the water ; while the
rapidity with which they had been assembled
by that cause would indicate that they possess
great acuteness either of sight or smell. Among
them was a bird I had never before, nor have
since, seen. It was the size of a pintado-petrel ;
the beak yellow ; the plumage black, with a white
band passing across the upper and under sur-
faces of the wings. It flew rapidly, and with a
short flapping action of the wings, unlike the
flight of ordinary sea fowl'; occasionally alighted
on the sea ; and when in the air attacked the
albatrosses, who to escape its assaults invariably
betook themselves to the water.

During a dark and calm night, with transient
squalls of rain, in lat. 43" S., long. 79" W., the
sea presented an unusually luminous appearance.
While undisturbed, the ocean emitted a faint

VOL. I. c

18

A WHALING VOYAGE

gleam from its bosom, and when agitated by the
passage of the shipj hashed forth streams of
light, which illuminated the sails and shone in
the wake with great intensity. A net, towing
alongside, had the appearance of a ball of fire
followed by a long and sparkling train ; and
large fish, as they darted through the water,
could be traced by the scintillating lines they
left upon its surface. The principal cause of
this phosphorescent appearance was ascertained
by the capture of numerous medusa?, of flat and
circular form, light-pink colour, and eight
inches in circumference ; the body undulated at
the margin, spread with small tubercles on its
upper surface, and bordered With a row of
slender tentacles, each five feet long, and
stinging sharply when handled. The centre of
the under surface was occupied by a circular
orifice, or mouth, communicating with an ample
interior cavity, and surrounded by four short
and tubular appendages, which, when conjoined,
resembled the stalk of a mushroom — a plant to
which the entire animal bore much resemblance
in form. When captive, the creature displayed
a power of folding the margin of the body in-
wards ; but its natural posture in the water was
with the body spread out, and the tentacles
pendent.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

19

When disturbed, this medusa emitted from
every part of its body a brilliant greenish light,
which shone without intermission as long as the
irritating cause persisted, but when that was
withdrawn the luminosity gradually subsided.
The luminous power evidently resided in a
slimy secretion which enveloped the animal, and
which was freely communicated to water, as
well as to any solid object. W^hen thus de-
tached, it could be made to exhibit the same
phosphoric phenomena as the medusa itself ;
hence, it is reasonable to suppose, that the gleam
of the ocean arose no less from the luminous
matter detached from these ereatures than from
that which adhered to them ; and I was further
satisfied on this point, when I found that im-
mersing the medusa in perfeetly elear and fresh
water eommunicated to that fluid all the sein-
tillating properties of a luminous sea. Though
the discovery of these medusse was a satisfactory
explanation of the phosphorescent appearance of
the water, I had yet to learn that the latter
effect was partly produced by Uifing, bony, and
perfectly-organized fish : such fish were nume-
rous in the sea this night ; and a tow-net cap ■
tured ten of them in the space of a few hours.
They were a species of Scopehs, three inches in

c 2

20

A WHALING VOYAGE

length, covered with scales of a steel-gray co-
lour, and the fins spotted with gray. Each side
of the margin of the abdomen was occupied by
a single row of small and circular depressions, of
the same metallick-gray hue as the scales ; a few
similar depressions being also scattered on the
sides, but with less regularity. The examples
we obtained were alive when taken from the net,
and swam actively upon being placed in a vessel
of sea-water. When handled, or swimming, they
emitted a vivid phosphorescent light from the
scales, or plates, covering the body and head, as
well as from the circular depressions on the abdo-
men and sides, and which presented the appear-
ance of as many small stars, spangling the surface
of the skin. The luminous gleam (which had
sometimes an intermittent or twinkling charac-
ter, and at others shone steadily for several
minutes together,) entirely disappeared after the
death of the fish. In two specimens we exa-
mined the contents of the stomach were small
shrimps.

As we proceeded to the N. W., and the
weather became more settled and agreeable, the
ship was re-equipped for sailing in fair latitudes,
and the mast-heads were again manned ; a duty
which had been omitted during our cold and
boisterous passage round the Cape.

BOUND THE GLOB*. 21

On the 10th of February, a large and solitary
sperm whale was seen moving leisurely through
the water, at a short distance from the ship. The
approach of night did not allow of the boats
being lowered ; but the clouds of vapour cast in
the air as the cachalot exposed its dark form
above the surface of the sea, the crew covering
the rigging, and hailing each spout as it arose
with “ There again !” prolonged with a solemn
and not inharmonious tone, and the moody si-
lence, so expressive of disappointment, with
which they dispersed when the coveted animal
was no longer visible, had a novel elfect during
a serene evening about the period of sunset.

On tire following day Juan Fernandez was in
sight from the mast head, bearing N. N. W., and
tlistant about sixty miles. As we approached
it closely, this island presented a series of ele-
vated and mostly conical* mountains, extending
east and west, and bearing a desolate, arid, and
highly volcanic aspect, but little in accordance
with che rich fertility for which the interior of
the country is so remarkable. When at the
distance of six miles from the coast we lowered
two boats, and entered a channel, about three
miles broad, which separates Juan Fernandez
from a small insular spot named “ Goat Island.”
This latter islet does not exceed four or five

22

A WHALING VOYAGE

miles in circumference, and has a mountainous,
burned, and barren appearance. Its height
may be estimated at about four hundred ffeet.
Its coast is precipitous, and composed of a
brown volcanic stone, which presents, on the ex-
posed surfaces of many of the cliffs, tortuous
and columnar projections, resembling the
branches and trunks of trees half imbedded in
its structure. On the north side, and western
extremity, a stream of fresh water empties itself
into the sea over the face of the cliffs.

With much impediment from a heavy surf, we
effected a landing upon this island. Its soil
afforded no vegetation higher than a stunted
shrub ; and a few patches of verdurtf served
rather to heighten by contrast, than to relieve,
fhe general sterility of its appearance. Neither
goats (which are said to have formerly abounded
on this spot) or any* other quadrupeds were
visible dui’ing our stay. The birds we noticed
were terns, boobies, and other of the amphibious
tribes peculiar to such coasts ; bluepigeons, re-
sembling our stock-dove, ( Columba ocnas,) nest-
ling in the precipices ; flocks of small birds, the
size of a wren ; and one species of falcon.
Vast numbers of violet-coloured crabs occupied
the rocks, and, by the threatening attitudes they
assumed, appeared to dispute with us the pos-

ROUND THE GLOBE.

23

session of the coast. Fish were plentiful in the
waters around, and took the hook so readily that
in less than two hours the boats were enabled to
obtain an ample supply for our ship’s company.
They were chiefly of the kinds known as “ rock-
cod,” “snappers,” or gilt-heads, (Sparus,)
“ sweeps, ” ( Glyphisodon,) and “ rudder-fish,”
or scad. ( Caranx.) Large eels were also nu-
merous, but proved so tenacious of life, hideous
in aspect, and prone to bite, that we were glad
to dismiss them from the boat as soon as they
were captured.

Juan Fernandez is about twenty-four miles
in circumference, and has an elevation of 3000
feet above the level of the sea. It was formerly
employed as a penal settlement from South
America ; but of late years a disposition has
been shewn to colonize its shores from the re-
public of Chili. The harbour of Cumberland
Bay, on its N. E. side, affords good anchorage,
and some supplies for shipping ; although the ill
discipline displayed by the convict residents has
deterred many vessels from availing themselves
of its advantages.

On the evening of the 12th, we made sail
from this island, and steered to the northward
and westward, until in lat. 25" S., long. 8/" W. ;
when we commenced a due West course. Mo-

24

A WHALING VOrAGB

derate winds from S. E., and fine weather, now
attended our progress ; but, owing to the sud-
den transition from the coldness of high lati-
tudes to the mild climate on the verge of the tro-
pics, catarrh attacked our ships company with a
prevalence and severity that gave it some claim
to the title of epidemic influenza.

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25

CHAPTER II.

Visit Pitcairn Island — Bounty Bay— Reception by the
Inhabitants — Description of the Island and its popu-
lation — Isabella Christian — Susan Christian — Physical,
social, and moral state of the natives — Climate — Salu-
brity of the soil — Historical notice of the Island and
its present occupants — Mutiny of the Bounty — Fate of
the mutineers and their Polynesian companions — Bio-
graphical notice of the Patriarch Adams — Emigration
of the Pitcairnians to Tahiti — Its disastrous results —
Their return, and condition in 18 ;M — Reflections —
Hospitality of the islanders — ^ Proceed on our voyage —
Facts connected witli the presumed prior existence of
an aboriginal race on Pitcairn Island.

At daylight on the 7th of March, the dark
and elevated form of Pitcairn Island was seen
from the mast-head, bearing W. ^ S. by com-
pass, and distant about thirty-five miles. Calms,
or light airs, did not permit us to approach the
land closely until after sun-set ; when the ship
was hove-to for the night, and a gun fired
and a blue light burned, in answer to the signal-
fire kindled by the inhabitants on the hills.

On the succeeding morning we made sail to
within five miles of the northern coast, (where
some houses on the heights denoted the situa-

26

A WHALING VOYAGE

tion of the settlement,) and lowered a boat, in
which Mr. Stolworthy and myself accompanied
Captain Stavers to the shore. Guided by the
gestures of a native, who stood upon an emi-
nence waving a cloth, we proceeded for an in-
dentation of the coast, where several of the
islanders were collected on the rocks ; but
here so heavy a surf broke upon every visible
part of the shore that some reluctance was felt
to expose the boat to its fury.

While we were considering the best mode of
effecting a landing, one of the islanders plunged
into the sea and swam towards us. He ap-
proached with the salutation, “ Good morn-
ing, brethren,” and, entering the boat, com-
menced a familiar conversation in very good
English. Upon his volunteering to pilot us to
the landing-place, and, in his own words, “ to
be responsible for the safety of the boat,” the
crew again took to their oars ; when passing
through a line of heavy rollers, and doubling
a projecting ledge of rocks, we almost im-
mediately entered comparatively tranquil water,
and ran the boat’s bow upon the small beach of
“ Bounty Bay,” where some pigs of iron ballast,
and shreds of corroded copper, yet remain as
mementos of the fate of the vessel which has
given her name to the spot. The principal

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27

male inhabitants received us on the beach with
a cordial and English welcome to their shores,
and conducted us by a steCp and winding path
to the settlement. Several of the heads of fa-
milies we had not before seen, and groups of
women and children, met us on our way, their
countenances beaming with pleasure at the ap-
pearance of their visitors, and all of them de-
sirous to shake hands with their “ countrymen,”
as they term the British. They had seen the
ship since the previous morning, and had been
anxiously awaiting our arrival.

This island is lofty, though of limited extent ;
its circumference does not exceed seven miles ;
while its extreme height, as determined by
Captain Beechey, is 1046 feet above the
sea. The coast is abrupt and rocky, beaten
by a heavy surf, and closely surrounded
by blue water of unfathomable depth. No
harbour obtains ; but small vessels may find an-
chorage in twenty-five, and twelve fathoms
water, with sandy bottom, close to the western
shore. A difficult, but practicable landing-
place, corresponding to this anchorage; a second
at Bounty Bay ; and one (more questionable)
on the S. E. coast, are the only points where
the island is accessible from the sea. Coral
grows on the coast, and its debris are found

28

A WHALING VOYAGE

on the coves ; but there are no distinct reefs of
this material.

The northern side of the island, or that oc-
cupied by the settlement, offers a very pic-
turesque appearance ; rising from the sea as a
steep amphitheatre, luxuriantly wooded to its
summit, and bounded on either side by pre-
cipitous cliffs, and naked and rugged rocks, of
many fantastic forms. The simple habitations
of the people are scattered over this verdant
declivity, and are half concealed by its abundant
vegetation. They are neatly constructed of
plank, thatched with leaves of the screw-pine,
(Pandanus fascicular is,) and provided with
windows, to which shutters are affixed. The
greater number have but a single apartment,
occupying the entire interior of the building,
and floored with boards ; while some few
(called double-cottages) possess an upper-room,
which communicates by a ladder with the one
beneath. The furniture they contain is scanty
and of the rudest description ; nevertheless,
every thing about them denotes great attention
to cleanliness and order.

The dwelling formerly occupied by old John
Adams is a neat cottage, containing two apart-
ments, both of which are on the ground. It is
situated in a pleasant and elevated part of the

ROUND THE GLOBE.

29

village, and opens with pretty effect upon a
smooth and verdant lawn. The largest and
best building the settlement can boast is
that named the school-house, and applied to
the purposes of a church, school, and teacher’s
residence.

To each cottage is attached a plot of garden-
ground, fenced round with roughly-hewn stakes,
and planted with water-melons, sweet potatoes,
and gourds ; while cattle-sheds, pigsties, and
other outhouses, herds of swine and goats,
and many European implements of agriculture,
(including some wheelbarrows,) aiford a rural
picture that forcibly reminds the Englishman
of similar scenes in his native land. Many
good paths, conducting to the habitations and
cultivated lands of the natives, intersect the
settlement, and often pass through dense and
solemn groves of majestic banian trees. (Vims
indica.)

The fabric of this island is chiefly a dark vol-
canic stone, but on the northern coast I ob-
served some cliffs of a yellow and friable sand-
stone. The whole of the fertile soil (which
is rich, and composed of a red clay mingled
with sand) was originally shared, in nearly
equal proportions, by the settlers from the
Bounty, and is now retained in like mjinner

30

A WHALING VOYAGE

by their descendants; each family possessing

a small estate and subsisting upon its produce.

A comparative scarcity of water exists, since
there are no natural streams, and the volcanic
structure of the land precludes the formation
of wells ; but rain-water is largely received in
ponds or tanks, and it is not until rain has been
absent seven or eight successive months that
the residents experience any material inconve-
nience from this cause. The greatest supply of
water is still obtained from a natural excavation
which was discovered by William Brown, the
assistant botanist of the Bounty, and thence
named “ Brown’s Pond.” It is supposed to
possess a spring. i

At this time the population consisted of
eighty persons, * of which the majority were

* One of the females, Jane Quintal, had left the is-
land, in company with an English sailor, some years
previous to our visit. Her paramour left her at the
island of llurutu, or Oetiroa, where she married a native,
and continued to reside.

My brother, Mr. G. Bennett, thus describes an inter-
view he had with this female during his stay at llurutu,
in September, 1829 : “On the beach I was accosted by
a tall, fine, half-caste woman, dressed in neat European
clothing. Her manner was artless, and she spoke the
English language with correctness. She informed me
that her name was Jane Quintal, of Pitcairn\s Island.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

31

children, and the proportion of females greater
than that of males. The entire race, with the
exception of the offspring of three English
men, resident on the island and married to na-
tive women, are the issue of the mutineers of
the Bounty, whose surnames they bear, and
from whom they have not as yet descended
beyond the third generation. So strong a per-
sonal resemblance obtains between the members
of a family that it is no difficult task to dis-
tinguish brothers and sisters. I was particu-

‘ You have heard of Matthew Quintal ?’ she said : * I am
his daughter.’

‘‘ The following conversation then took place between
us: — ‘ How long is it since you left Pitcairn’s Island V
— ‘ A few years ago, in a whale-ship.’ — 'Why did you
leave ? ’ — ‘ There are no husbands there ; and besides,* she
continued, ‘ the island is too small for us. It is, sir, but
a very small island; quite a rock.’ — ‘ You are married
now, I suppose ?’ seeing a little cjiubby dark urchin in
her arms. — * Yes,’ she replied; ‘ I married a native of
this island (Rurutu). I was obliged soon to get married,
they are so very particular ; all missionaries. I could
not talk to any male creature when single, so I got
married.’ — ‘ Do you wish to return to Pitcairn’s Island ?’
‘ No, I am very comfortable here.’ Having ascertained
that I was in the medical profession, she made me pro-
mise to send her ‘ stuflF to raise a blister,’ sticking-plaster,
&c. as she intended to practise the profession herself on
the island,”

32

A WHALING VOYA©E

larly led to notice a predominance of Irish fea-
tures in many among them, and more especially
in the fair and expressive countenances of
some of the children ; nor had I any reason to
be dissatisfied with my skill in national physi-
ognomy, when I was afterwards informed that
these individuals bore the name of M‘Coy, and
were the issue of one of the Bounty’s crew who
was an Irishman.*

The only survivors of the first settlers are
two aged Tahitian females, who possess some
interest, in association with the history of these
islanders. The eldest, Isabella, is the widow of
the notorious Fletcher Christian, and the mother
of the first-born on the island. Her hair is
very white, and she bears, generally, an ap-
pearance of extreme age, but her mental and
bodily powers are yet active. She appeared to
have some knowledge of Capt. Cook, and re-
lates, with the 4enacious retrospect of age,
many minute particulars connected with the

* I subsequently noticed a similar fact at I’ahiti ;
where an intelligent half-caste woman, the offspring of
a female of Borabora and an Irishman, was princi-
pally to be distinguished from the ordinary natives by
her strongly-marked Hibernian features. Upon my
mentioning this peculiarity in her countenance to a friend
residing on the island he informed me of her origin.

ROUND THE GLOBEr

33

visits of that great navigator to Tahiti. The
second, Susan Christian, is some years younger
than her countrjnvoman Isabella. She is short and
stout, of a very cheerful disposition, and proved
particularly kind to us; indeed, I flattered
myself that I had found favour in the sight of
“ old Susan,” as she not only presented to me a
native cloth of brilliant colours, which she had
herself manufactured, but, bringing a pair of
scissors, insisted upon my taking a lock of her
dark and curling hair, flowing profusely over her
shoulders, and as yet but little frosted by the
winter of life. This woman arrived on the island
as the wife of one of the Tahitian settlers, and
bears the reputation of having played a con-
spicuous part when the latter were massacred
by their own countrywomen. She subsequently
married Thursday October, the eldest son of
Fletijher Christian, and who died at Tahiti in 1831 .
Her daughter, Mary, a you#ig and interesting
female, is the only spinster on the island ; she
perseveres in refusing the offers of her country-
men, to whom she expresses great aversion,
but, unfortunately, her antipathy has not ex-
tended to Europeans, and a very fair infant
claims her maternal attentions.

In person, intellect, and habits, these islanders
form an intei’esting link between the civilized

VOL. I. I)

34

A WHALING VOYAGE.

European, and unsophisticated Polynesian, na-
tions, They are a tall and robust people, and
their features, though far from handsome, dis-
play many European traits. With the excep-
tion of George Adams, who is much fairer than
any of his countrymen, the complexion of the
adults does not differ, in shade, from that of the
Society Islanders. T|ieir hair, also, is invariably
black and glossy, and either straight or gracefully
waved, as with the last-named people. Their
disposition is frank, honest, and hospitable to
an extreme ; and, as is common to races claim-
ing a mixture of European with Asiatic blood,
they possess a proud and susceptible tone of
mind. In conducting the most trivial affairs
they are guided by the Scriptures, which they
have read diligently, and from which they quote
with a freedom and frequency that rather im •
pair the effect.

A modest demellnour, a large share of good
humour, and an artless and retiring grace, ren-
der the females pecuUarly prepossessing. Some
of the younger women have also pleasing coun-
tenances ; but, on the whole, little can be said
in favour of their beauty. They bear an in-
fluential sway both in domestic and public
politics ; and this they are the better calculated
to do, since they are intelligent, active, and

ROUNP THR GLOBE.

35

robust, partake in the labours of their husbands
with cheerfulness, and, with but few and recent
exceptions, live virtuous in all stations of life.

• Their children are stout Mid shrewd little
urchins, familiar and confident, but at the same
time well behaved. They are early inured to
aquatic exercises ; and it amused us not a
little to see small creature, two or three years
old, sprawling in the surf which broke upon the
beach ; their mothers sitting upon the rocks,
watching their anticks, and coolly telling them
to “ come out, or they would be drowned whilst
the older children, amusing themselves with
their surf-boards, would dive out beneath the
lofty breakers, and, availing themselves of a
succeeding series, approach the coast, borne on
the crest of a wave, with a velocity wliich
threatened their instant destruction against the
rocks ; but, skilfully evading any contact with
the shore, they again divediforth to meet and
mount another of their foaming steeds.

The ordinary clothing of the men is little
more than the maro, or girdle of cloth, worn by
the most primitive Polynesian islanders. On
occasions of ceremony, as to attend at church,
or receive the visits of strangers, they assume a
complete English costume ; their hats being
constructed of pandanus-leaf cinnet, and de-

36

A WHALING VOYAGE

corated with coloured ribbons, which give them
a pretty rustic-holyday effect.

The females commonly employ for their
dress the native material they prepare from the
bark of the paper-mulberry tree, stained with
vegetable dyes ; but, as opportunities offer, they
substitute for this rude cloth the handkerchiefs
and cotton prints of Europe. They wear the
petticoat and scarf in the Tahitian style, and
complete their toilette after the manner of the
same nation, by passing a girdle of the seared
and yellow leaves of the Ti plant around their
waist ; placing flowers in their ears ; and encir-
cling their tresses with a floral wreath. Some
few wear their hair short; but the majority
permit it to flow over their shoulders in luxuriant
ringlets.

These people subsist chiefly on vegetable
food. Yams, whieh are abundant and of excel-
lent quality, form their principal dependence ;
and next to these the roots of the mountain-taro
(Arum costatum), for the cultivation of which
the dry and elevated character of the land is so
well adapted. Cocoa-nuts, bananas, sweet-pota-
toes, pumpkins, and water-melons, are also
included among their edible vegetables ; but of
bread-fruit they obtain only a scanty crop, of
very indifferent quality. They prepare a com-

ROUND THE GLOBE.

37

mon and favourite food with grated cocoa-nuts
and yams, pounded, with bananas, to a thick
paste; which, when enveloped in leaves and
baked, furnishes a very nutritious and palatable
cake, called pilai. On two days in the week
they permit themselves the indulgence of animal
food, either goat’s flesh, pork, or poultry ;
while the waters around the coast afford them
a sufficient supply of fish. They cook in the
Tahitian manner, by baking in excavations in
the earth, filled with heated stones; the fuel
they employ is usually the dried husks of the
cocoa-nut.

The elder members of the Pitcairn Island
family are but indifferently educated ; scarcely
any of them being able to write their own
name, though most can read. For some years
past, an Englishman, named George Nobbs, has
resided on the island, and officiated as school-
master to the children, wh6, in consequence,
exhibit a proficiency in the elements of educa-
tion highly creditable both to their own intelli-
gence and to the exertions of their teacher.
George Adams had commenced instructing him-
self in writing but a few months before our
arrival, and a journal which he had kept for
that length of time, and which he put into my
possession, displays much progress in the art.

38

A WHALING VOYAGE

Tfie few books they possess have been obtained
from sailors visiting their shores, and are chiefly
of a feli^ous tenor. Some volumes, also, which
were removed from the Bounty are still pre-
served in the house formerly occupied by the
patriarch John Adams.

The English andTahitian languages are spoken
with equal fluency by all the islanders, except-
ing the two Tahitian females, who speak little
else than their native dialect, and are, perhaps,
in the sad predicament of having partly forgotten
that. They converse in English with some of the
imperfections peculiar to foreigners; andthis may
be partly attributed to their usually discoursing
in Tahitian with one another ; as well as to a
practice among their British visitors of address-
ing them in broken English, the better to be
understood — a delusion into which most fall
upon their first intercourse with this people.
They, nevertheless, pride themselves upon an
accurate knowledge of the language of their
fathers ; and not only aim at its niceties, but
also indulge in the more common French in-
terpolations, as faux pas, fracas, sang froid, kc.

They were early and well instructed in the
pure doctrine of the Christian religion by their
revered forefather John Adams ; and it is to be
sincerely hoped that no fanaticism may ever

BOUND THE GLOBE.

39

intrude upon their present simple and sensible
worship of the Creator, nor the intemperate zeal
of enthusiasts give them a bane in exchange for
that religion,

“ Whose function is to heal and to restore.

To soothe and cleanse, not madden and pollute.”

Their sabbath is now observed upon the
correct day, or that according with the meridian
of the island; which was not the case in 1814,
when Sir T. Staines visited the spot, and found
John Adams and his small community pre-
serving Saturday as the day of rest ; an error
which had arisen from the circumstance of the
Bounty having made the passage from England
to Tahiti by the eastern route, without any cor-
rection of time having been made to allow for
the day apparently gained by this course.

The canoes the natives possess are but few,
and of very simple construction. They are
hollowed out from one piece of wood, and each
is adapted to carry two persons. When afloat,
they appear as mere wooden troughs, or little
better than butcher’s trays ; nevertheless they
can brave a very rough sea, or go safely through
a heavy surf, and, when managed by their island
owners, cleave the water with incredible velocity.
The young men of the island are excellent
divers. They occasionally engage themselves

40

A WHALING VOYAGE

to pearling vessels, ife dive for pearl-shell among
the adjacent islands; with an understanding
that «they are to be restored to their home at
the expiration of their engagement.

At the period of our visit the climate of Pit-
cairn was serene and delightful, and, though the
thermometer marked 82“ in the shade, the
sensible temperature was kept agreeably low by
the moderate and refreshing trade-winds, which
almost incessantly blow over the land. Winds
from N. W., with wet and squally weather, are
occasionally experienced ; but no season is con-
sidered remarkable for rains. The land has
generally a very salubrious aspect, and the in-
habitants a very healthy appearance ; nor are
there, apparently, any diseases endemic amongst
them. Elephantiasis, or fefe, so prevalent in
many of the islands of the Pacific, is here un-
^pown.

The natural productions are principally those
common also to the Society Islands. The
quadrupeds we noticed were all exotic, as goats
and swine, which were brought hither by the
first settlers from the Bounty ; and a bull and
cow, a donkey, a dog, and several cats, which
the people had recently brought with them from
Tahiti ; but, as the island affords but little pas-
turage, the oxen had destroyed some fruit-trees.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

41

and it was determined that they should be killed.
The domestic fowls are of the breed introduced
here by the Bounty. Some Moscovy ducks had
been lately left on the island by the Hon.
Capt. Waldegrave, of H. B. M. S. Seringapatam.
The, only wild birds we observed, beyond the
amphibious denizens of the cDast, was a small
and noisy species inhabiting the woodlands ; in
size and plumage it resembles our common
sparrow, and it bears the same name amongst
the islanders. Small and active lizards, of many
gaudy hues, are numerous on the vegetated lands.
Among the insects, mosquitoes have but lately
made their appearance, and are supposed to
have accompanied the islanders upon their re-
turn from Tahiti.

The breadfruit, it is said, was found on this
island by the Bounty’s people, who also in-
troduced many plants of it from Tahiti ; it was^
formerly plentiful, but the trees are now few in
number and bear but a small and annual crop
of fruit. This degeneracy is believed by the
natives to attend upon the clearance of the land ;
and such may probably be the fact ; but, at the
same time, the dry, elevated, and exposed
eharaeter of the soil, is so opposed to the natui-al
habitude of this tree in other parts of Polynesia

42

A WHALING VOYAGE

that I am only surprised to find it ranking with
the indigenous vegetation.

The candle-nut tree, and Indian mulberry,
are conspicuous in the wooded lands. The
roots of the former are used by the people to
give a brown, and those of the latter a yellow
stain to their bark cloth. The lime tree ( Citrus
meMcaJ has been introduced, but is not prolific ;
nor has the mountain-plantain, (Musafei,) re-
cently imported from Tahiti, as yet succeeded.

The cotton shrub, ( Gossifpium vitifolium,)
loaded with large and globular pods containing
inuch excellent wool ; capsicum, or bird-pepper,
( Capsicum frutescens,) sugar cane, tobacco,
and turmeric, grow wild in great abundance,
but are applied to no useful purpose. The re-
sidoii*i^ay that the cultivation of the sugar-cane
is opposed by rats, which infest the soil in
great numbers, and destroy the young plan-
tations.

Yams ('Dioscorea sativa and aculeata) are in-
digenous to the island, and cultivated with
much care. They are grown in fields, or “ yam
patches,” on the exposed and sunny declivities
of the hills, their vines wandering procumbent
over a great extent of ground. They produce
an annual crop of roots ; the season for planting

ROUND THE GLOBE.

43

them commencing in October, and that for dig-
ging between July and August. One large root,
when cut for seed, is estimated to produce twenty
plants. The labours of hoeing and preparing the
earth, sowing the seed, transplanting the seed-
lings, and digging for the mature roots, are the
greatest these islanders have to contend with,
and furnish as many data for the events of their
lives.

The mountain taro (Arum costatum) is also
indigenous, and is xenty generally cultivated on
the dry and elevated )ands, where it occurs as
verdant plots of tall, erect, and arrow-shaped
leaves, bearing in their centre the flowers pecu-
liar to the “ wake robin” family. Unlike its
aquatic congener, A. esculentum, or common
taro, this species prefers a dry and mountain
soil, or is, at least, conveniently amphibious.
The cultivated root attains a large size and
bears some resemblance to the yam, and,
although when in the raw state it is so acrid as
to excoriate the skin, when cooked it affords a
very agreeable and nutritious food. The Irish
potatoe is occasionally grown ; but the natives
give the preference to the cultivation and use of
the sweet potatoe (Convolvulus batatas).

Amongst the miscellaneous vegetation, we
observed the scurvy-grass of navigators (Car da-

44

A WHALING VOYAGE

mine antiscorhuticaj ; and the ferns Asplenium
ohtmatum, Acrostichum aureum, an undescribed
species of Hymenophyllum, and a species of
Cyathea, a tree-fern attaining the height of from
twelve to fourteen feet. The most abundant
pasture-grass is a species of Eleusine,

It is probable, that Pitcairn Island was seen as
early as January, 1606, by the Spanish com-
mander, Louis Paz de Torres ; although the
date of its discovery may with more certainty
be referred to 1767, wh^n its existence was
ascertained by Captain Philip Carteret, of the
British discovery-sloop Bwallow. Captain Car-
teret did not land upon its shores, (which he had
reason to believe were uninhabited,) and
named the island after a young gentleman on
board his ship, by whom it was first seen.

In the year 1773, Captain Cook, then en-
gaged on his second voyage, cruised in diligent
search of this land, but failed to find it ; Cap-
tain Carteret having laid it down more than
three degrees to the westward of its true po-
sition.*

The second recorded visit to Pitcairn Island is

* Sir T. Staines determined the position of this island
to be lat. 26° S., long. 130" 25' W. Capt. Beechey, R. N.
has fixed the position of its village in lat. 25" 3' 37 "
S., long. 130" 8' 23" W .

ROUND THE GLOBE.

45

that of the British armed-ship Bounty and her
mutinous crew, in 1790. The events which oc-
curred on board this vessel, while under the
command of Ueut. Bligh, ^and employed in
conveying plants of the breadfruit from Tahiti
to our West India colonies, are well known ;
nevertheless, I may be permitted to relate, briefly,
the ultimate fate of both the vessel and her
crew, in connexion with some facts that came
under our notice, and with others communi-
cated to me by the Pitcairn islanders, or by tbe
English residents who had for many years lived
in social intercourse with John Adams, the late
patriarch of the colony.

Upon leaving Tahiti for the last time, in Sep-
tember, 1/89, taking with them several natives
of that island, the mutineers in the Bounty are
known to have steered to the N. W. ; but their
route must have been long arid devious, since it
was not until January 1790, that they reached
Pitcairn Island, a distance of little more than
four hundred leagues from Tahiti, in a S. E.
direction. Whether Christian, who had the
command of the ship, made this small and se-
questered isle by accident or design I have been
unable to ascertain; but if from a previous
knowledge of its existence, it is evident he could
have reached it only upon a parallel of latitude.

46

A WHALING VOYAGE

as its correct longitude was at that time un-
known.

When off this land, the ship was nearly lost to
Christian by a counter conspiracy. He had
landed with some Tahitians to inspect the coun-
try, when Mills, the gunner’s mate, proposed to
those who remained on board to make sail for
Tahiti, and leave their companions on shore to
their fate ; but some unexplained circumstances
did not permit this plan to be carried into
execution.

Finding the island adapted to their purpose,
(and certainly few spots in the Pacific could have
been better so,) the mutineers kept the ship lying
close off the coast, while they removed, in casks
and on rafts, the stores they wished to preserve.*
This had been but partially effected when one of
the cr^w, named Matthew Quintal, set fire to the
vessel, without the sanction of his shipmates,
and contrary to the wish of Christian. The
ship, while in flames, drifted to the shore, and
her destruction was completed in Bounty Bay.
What portions of her wreck remained, or were
subsequently cast up by the sea, were carefully
collected and destroyed, to jremove from the

* Tradition amongst the islanders yet records the de-
light of the Tahitian females when they received the sails
of the Bounty, to make their clothing from the canvass.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

47

ocean every trace of her fate.* For some time
after they had landed, the mutineers were tor-
mented by the fear of detection, and kept a
constant watch on the summit of a lofty cliff,
which immediately strikes the observer as being
admirably adapted for that purpose, and which
is, indeed, still employed as a look-out station by
the inhabitants. From this commanding height
they observed, soon after their arrival, a sail ap-
proach the land ; but did not believe that she
neared it sufficiently to communicate by boat.
They subsequently ascertained, however, that
some persons had landed from her, and returned,
probably under the impression that the island
was uninhabited.

The fate of this smgll band of colonists (which
consisted of fifteen men and twelve women) was
retributive and melancholy in the extreme. All
of their number met with violent deaths, except-

* The present race of people speak of the bark of their
fathers with much interest. They showed us many of her
relicks, and from among them we obtained a blank log-
book, of antiquated appearance. On the interior of its
cover was a card, engraved with fanciful devices, a coat of
arms, with the motto “ Pro Deo patria et amicis,” and a
scroll, bearing the name of Fran. Hayward, which would
declare the owner of the hook to have been one of the
midshipmen of the Bounty who accompanied Lieutenant
Bligh in the launclju

48

A WHALING VOYAGE

ing Adams, Young, and some of the Tahitian fe-
males. Fletcher Christian and John Mills were
shot on the same day, by the Tahitians; the grave
of the former was pointed out to me: it is situated
a short distance up a mountain, and in the vici-
nity of a pond. Isaac Martin, Williams,

and William Brown, shared a similar fate. Seve-
ral of the Tahitian men fell also in these con-
flicts ; and the survivors, when in a fair way to
exterminate their British rivals, were themselves
slaughtered, “ at one fell swoop,” by their own
wives and countrywomen. Matthew Quintal,
whose temper was uniformly tyrannical and
quarrelsopie, was shot by his comrades, who, it
is charitable to believe, were compelled to re-
sort to that measure in self-defence. William
M‘Coy became delirious (partly, it was thought,
through . remorse for the part he had taken in
the destruction of Quintal,) and drowned him-
self in the sea, with a stone tied round his neck.

Brown, Martin, and Williams died without
issue. Mills had an only son, who was killed
by a fall from a cliff, and one daughter, who is
married into the family of the Youngs: the
other mutineers have perpetuated their names
through a numerous Anglo-Tahitian progeny.

After the lapse of a few years, John Adanpis
was left the only survivor of the British settlers.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

49

and the father of a young and happy commu-
nity. He had served as an able seaman on
board the Bounty, under the name of Alexander
Smith, but his real name is Adams, Alexander
Smith being a fictitious, or “ purser’s” name,
assumed upon shipping, a practice very usual
with British seamen. He was an Englishman by
birth, and the son of a waterman, an occupation
until very recently, if not at present, followed by
his brother on the river Thames. He was accus-
tomed to say, that a proposal to join in the mu-
tiny was made to him as he lay in his hammock,
and to this he acceded, but took no very active
part in the atrocity.

He was thrice married to Tahitian females.
By his first wife, who accompanied him from
Tahiti to Pitcairn’s Island, he had no family.
Upon her death he lived with, but did not
marry, a female whom he took from her Tahi-
tian husband ; and this act (which has always
been incorrectly ascribed to Fletcher Christian)
led ta the sanguinary dissensions between the
mutineers and the men of Tahiti. His second
wife was the widow of MiUs ; the fruits of this
UMiion were three daughters, now living in the
ishind, namely, Dinah, married to Edward
Quintal; Rachel, the \\ife of an Englishman
named John Evans; and Hannah, the widow

VOL. I. E

50

A WHALING VOYAGE

of George Young, who perished during the late
residence of this people at Tahiti. Adams’s
second wife died of an injury she received from
a goat while enceinte; and the widow of M’Coy
became his third. By her he has an only son,
George, who is married to Polly Young, the
finest and most intelligent woman on the island.

In March, 1829, John Adams expired, in the
sixty-eighth year of his age, and after a resi-
dence of thirty-nine years on Pitcairn’s Island.
His remains, as well as those of his last wife (who
had been for many years blind and bedridden,
and who did not survive him more than six
weeks) are deposited in separate graves, within
an enclosure but a few yards distant from their
former residence. Poplar-leaved hibiscus trees,
covered with large yellow flowers, and a shrub
of Poinciana fulcherrima, bearing clusters of
crimson blossoms, shade the spot, and a rough
head-stone distinguishes the grave of the patri-
arch from that of his wife.

The particulars of the discovery of the Pit-
cairn colony, through visits accidentally paid
to the island, in 1808, by the American ship
Topaz, Captain Folger, and in 1814, by the
British frigates Briton and Tagus, are sufficiently
well known.

John Adams, a short time before his death.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

51

had expressed apprehensions that the supply of
water on his island would be inadequate to the
wants of an increasing population; and that
it might become necessary, hereafter, to request
the aid of the British government to remove
the colony to some other spot better adapted
for its maintenance.

In February, 1831, H. M. sloop Comet, Cap-
tain Sandilands, arrived at Pitcairn’s Island, ac-
companied by the Lucy Anne transport, for the
purpose of removing the residents to Tahiti, if
such should prove to be their wish. The
islanders, being partly actuated by a desire to
visit the land which their mothers had depicted
to them in glowing colours, but more by the fear
that they should offend did they not accede to
what they considered was the desire of the
English government, consented to the proposed
emigration. In four days they were all em-
barked, to the number of eighty-seven, on board
the transport, and, escorted by the Comet, pro-
ceeded to Tahiti.

Their arrival at their destined port occurred
at a peculiarly unfortunate period — the Tahi-
tians were then on the eve of a civil war ;
and, in addition to the scenes of strife and con-
fusion this distracted state of the island dis-
played, the hitherto immaculate Pitcairnians

52

A WHALING VOYAGE

were compelled to witness the gross and un-
bounded licentiousness habitual to the place,
and at this period unrestrained even by the
broad meshes of the local laws. This Land
of Promise, also, offered the colonists but little
that could compensate for the loss of their own
fertile and picturesque isle, which, though small,
was more than sufficiently large,* and, in a
word — their home. Nevertheless, the com-
mercial bustle of Tahiti had its charms ; to the
habits of the people they became but too well
inured ; and it is probable that the Pitcairnians
would soon have become reconciled to their
new abode, had not disease assailed them soon
after their arrival, and relentlessly thinned their
numbers.

Dispirited by this unusual affliction, they be-
came anxious to return to their native land, and
applied to Captain Sandilands for a passage
thither ; but the Captain had no instructions to
thcit effect, and soon after put to sea with the
Comet; having first obtained from the Tahi-
tian government a liberal grant of land, and
the promise of six months’ suj)ply of provisions
for the Pitcairn colony. With the aid of a sum

• It is estimated, that Pitcairn Island can well support
1000 inhabitants.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

53

of money raised by subscription amongst the
benevolent European residents at Tahiti, and by
a part-payment of the copper bolts of the
Bounty, the unfortunate emigrants were at
length enabled to obtain a passage, in an Ame-
rican vessel, to their own shores, which they re-
gained after an absence of little more than five
months. Upon the occasion of this disastrous
expedition, fourteen of their number perished
by disease ; twelve having died at Tahiti, and
two others immediately after their return to Pit-
cairn Island.

At the time of our visit nearly two years had
elapsed since the return of this people: their
lands were again in a high state of cultivation,
and their former simple habits were in a great
measure resumed. But the injurious effects of
a more extensive intercourse with the world
were but too evident in the restless and dissatis-
fied state of many amongst them, as well as in a
licentiousness of discourse, which I cannot be-
lieve belonged to their former condition. Events
had also occurred, shortly before our arrival,
which had roused the worst passions of this hi-
therto peaceful race, and had divided the island
intx) two factions, opposed to each other with a
rancour little short of open warfare.

The origin of this calamity was attributed to

A WHALING VOYAGE

5:4

the recent arrival on the spot of an elderly
Englishman, named Joshua Hill, who, uninvited,
and without authority, had assumed, undej4the
title of teacher, the government of the people.
To strengthen his authority, he had allotted a
subordinate share of it to a few of the most
ambitious and athletic amongst the men, who,
as ‘‘ elders ” and “ privy council,” were to en-
force his regulations among their countrymen.
The fraternal equality that had hitherto existed
in their society was thus destroyed ; while new
laws, enforced under the equally new penalties of
imprisonment and flogging, as well as by e.v-
pionnage, and the seizure of flre-arms from the
disaffected — measures at all times deemed more
military than civil — naturally tended to irritate
those of the natives who were not of the upper
party, and many of them were anxious to accom-
pany us to Tahiti, that they might escape such
unpleasantries. George Adams, in particular,
appeared much distressed at the state of his
country, and urgently desired the presence of a
British ship of war, to settle their disputes and
“ take old Hill and the muskets off the is-
land.”

In this, as in many similar dissensions, it was
difficult to (Uitermine to which [)arty the greater
share of blame should attach ; for though no

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55

excuse can be offered for Mr. Hill’s unauthorised
intrusion upon the affairs of the island, or for
his despotic measures, yet, previous to his ar-
rival, the state of the island was confessedly
bad, and the people much in need of a prudent
governor. Immediately after their return from
Tahiti, the pernicious practice of distilling an
ardent spirit from the Ti root had become fre-
quent — drunkenness and disease were amongst
them — their morals had sunk to a low ebb —
and vices of a very deep dye were hinted at in
their mutual recriminations. But all these
errors might doubtless be eradicated by mild
and judicious measures ; and probably by the
fortiter in re of Mr. Hill ; though it is much
to be feared that the social compact which for-
merly bound this people has been broken by
the rude contact of the world, and that virtue
and tranquillity have fled the spot, never more to
return. I thought it, indeed, a remarkable
proof of the mutability of human affairs, that
these islanders, whom I had ever been accus-
tomed to regard in the light of a curious phe-
nomenon in the moral history of man — as a
large and united family, occup3dng a sweet little
isle of its own, remote from the contentious
world, and rich in every Christian virtue, should
prove, when seen on their own shores, the only

66 .A WHALING VOYAGE

one, of the many races of people we visited
during the voyage, with whom discord pre-
vailed.

Notwithstanding these political disputes, and
the part we were necessarily called upon to take
in their discussion, the reputation for hospitality
which has ever been attached to these islanders
was not lost. Their best houses, their choicest
food, and all that they possessed and deemed
acceptable, were freely offered for our use ;
while fruits, vegetables, hogs, and fowls, were
abundantly supplied to the ship. Some of the
inhabitants accompanied us over the; isl{ind»
pointing out every object worthy of notice, and
communicating information readily and with
intelligence; while others went off in their
canoes to the ship, that they might be pre-
sented to the English ladies, who they were in-
formed we had on board.

In return for their ample supplies and many
acts of kindness, we presented them with such
European manufactures as they required, and,
after a friendly parting, embarked to continue
our voyage, taking with us three Englishmen,
who had intermarried with the natives, and
resided amongst them for many years, but who
had suffered so much persecution during the
late unhappy discords that they were glad to

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57

avail themselves of a passage to Tahiti, until
they could return to their wives and families
under competent protection.*

There is every reason to believe that Pitcairn
Island has had inhabitants previous to its occu-
pation by the crew of the Bounty ; since, in
addition to the ruins of morais, images, &c.
found on its soil, the islanders informed me
that they had recently discovered two human
skeletons, lying in the earth side by side, and
the head of each resting on a pearl-shell. This
last circumstance involves the history of the
aborigines in yet greater obscurity ; as the pearl-
shell, although found in the adjacent islands,
has never been seen in the waters around Pit-
cairn Island. Stone adzes, supposed to have
belonged to this ancient race, are not unfre-
quently found by the present inhabitants, whilst
cultivating the ground. Two of these were
given to me by Hannah Young, the third
daughter of John Adams. They are rudely
fashioned, in the ordinary Polynesian form of
such instruments ; are composed of a black

From the report of a visit to Pitcairn Island, by the
Actffion, Lord Edward Russell, in 183(1, we learn that
Nobbs had returned, and resumed his office of school-
master ; and that .Toshua Hil! had been recommended by
his lordship to quit the island.

58

A WHALING VOYAGK

basalt, highly polished; and bear an appear-
ance of great antiquity.

It is certainly difficult to account for the
extinction of an original race upon a spot so
replete with every essential for the support of
human existence ; and we are led to the hypo-
thesis, that either one of the epidemic diseases,
which occasionally scourge the islands of the
Pacific, had destroyed the primitive inhabitants
to the “ last man,” or that the island was but oc-
casionally frequented, for religious or other
purposes, by the people of some distant shore,
who subsequently discontinued the custom.

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59

CHAPTER III.

See Maitea — Visit Tahiti — General description of the
island — The Guava- tree— Native villages and dwell-
ings — March of civilization — Commercial state and
prospects of the island — Laws and government — Pe -
digree of the reigning family — The Queen Aimata —
Revolution of 1831 — Its effects — Religious, moral, and
physical condition of the natives — Present state of the
Missionaries — Taata taehaCy or wild men — Climate —
Natural productions.

l^^ROM Pitcairn Island we continued our route
to the N. W. ; the winds holding chiefly from
the northward, with wet and tempestuous wea-
ther — as is not unusual in this region during
the autumn season.

On the night of the 21st of March, the small
but elevated and uninhabited island of Maitea,
of the Georgian group, was seen, by moonlight,
bearing N. N. E., distant ten miles ; and early
on the following morning Tahiti was observed
from the mast-head, at the distance of about
forty miles to the westward. As we approached
the latter island, and sailed along its N. E.
coast, the two lofty and elongated peninsulas of
which it is composed had. the appearance of as

60

A WHALING VOYAGE

many distinct islands — the low isthmus, about
two miles broad, which connects them, being
invisible from the sea until very closely ap-
proached.

The scenery commanded from this point of
view fully justified the eneomiums that voyagers
have so liberally lavished upon it. The dark
and cloud-capped mountains of the interior send
to the coast a graduated series of undulating
hiUs, their declivities, lightly timbered and co-
vered with pasturage, exhibiting, as the sun plays
upon them, many of the most beautiful varia-
tions of light and shade. Extensive vallies and
plains, luxuriantly vegetated, intersect the moun-
tain lands, and reeeive the waters of many glit-
tering easeades, gliding raajestieally over the
faces of the more preeipitous heights ; while in
those spots where the huts and plantations of
the natives can be detected amidst the foliage of
the coast, relieving the natural wildness of the
landscape, the effect is more enchanting than it
is possible to describe.

The day being far advaneed when we reached
the N. W. side of this island, the ship was kept
lying off the coast until the following morning,
when we received the native pilot on board, and,
passing through the great reef, cast anchor in
the harbour of Taonoa.

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61

Tahiti (Otaheite, Cook) is, correctly speaking,
the largest of the six Georgian Islands, which are
situated about seventy miles to the S. E. of a
second group, discovered by Captain Cook, and
named by him the Society Islands. It is now,
however, very customary with voyagers, and
others, to designate both the above clusters by
the latter name ; the Georgian being distin-
guished as the Windward, and the Society as the
Leeward, islands.

Of the two peninsulas which form the land of
Tahiti, the northern and largest is named Opou-
reonu, or Tahiti-nue ; the southern, Taiarabu,
or Tahiti-iti. The entire island is estimated at
1 08 miles in circumference ; and its population
at 7000. It is separated from the rugged
and mountainous island of Eimeo by a channel
nearly eighteen miles across, and which per-
mits free navigation between the reefs en-
circling the two islands.

Notwithstanding the very mountainous cha-
racter of Tahiti, extensive and fertile vales
open upon the sea on all sides of its coast,
giving passage to many broad and rapid rivers,
abounding with fish. A broad belt of level al-
luvial soil, margined by a beach of fine sand
or broken coral, encircles the greater portion of
its shores ; and the entire land is clothed from

62

A WHALING VOYAGE

the water’s edge to its topmost heights with a
perennial verdure, which for luxuriance and
picturesque effect is certainly unparalleled.

The highest mountain in this island is situated
near its north extremity. It has never been
ascended by an European, nor has any exact
measurement of its height been given, but its
estimated elevation above the sea is 7000 feet.
Some Tahitians, who have gained its summit,
report that they found there a lake of yellow
water, (probably an extinct crater, with an
ochreous sediment in the water it contains,) and
some wild ducks, differing in plumage from the
ordinary species indigenous to the coast.

The principal settlements, and all those most
frequented by shipping, are placed on the N.W.
side of the island, on a tract of land about
eighteen miles in extent, bounded to the east-
ward by the conspicuous promontory. Point Ve-
nus, and to the westward by Border’s Point.
Tills space is divided into several districts, of
which the principal spots and villages (as we
proceed westward from Point Venus) are Mata-
vai, Papdoa, Taone, Taonoa, Papeete, and Buna-
auia. *

Matavai forms a distinct bay. Much of its
soil is sandy and arid, the lofty mountains of
the interior on the one hand, and a broad surf-

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G3

beaten beach of black sand on the other, reduc-
ing its fertile and habitable land to a compara-
tively small space. Its southern boundary is
formed by cavernous cliffs, at the base of One-
tree Hill,* its northern by the promontory on
which Captain Cook observed the last transit of
Venus across the sun’s disk, in June, 1769, and
hence named Point Venus. It is a long and
sandy spit of land, divided through its entire
length by a broad stream. On one side it is
barren, or covered only with a profusion of the
Convolvulus Braziliensis, while on the other it is
adorned by a dense grove of cocoa-nut palms,
presenting to the sea a very conspicuous land-
mark. The outer reef, which protects most
other parts of the coast, is deficient at Matavai,
or does not rise to the level of the sea by several
feet ; consequently the bay is exposed to a heavy
swell during S. W. gales, and is not altogether
an eligible anchorage.

The coast between Matavai and Pdpe^te is
thinly inhabited ; but affords extensive tracts of
level and fertile soil, penetrating inland to the
foot of the hills, covered with the wild fruit-
trees of the country, and enlivened by occasional
he^ds of grazing cattle, and native huts embo-

• The solitary Erythrina, oi coral-tree, which formerly
grew on the brow of this hill, and gave it a name, no longer
exists.

64

A WHALING VOYAGE

somed in the depths of the foliage. Pdpe^te is
the principal settlement and port of the island, t
as well as the seat of government. Dwellings
of every grade, from the mere shed of the
native to the more finished cottages of the Eu-
ropean residents, are numerously arranged on
its shores, and with a nearer approach to uni-
formity than is elsewhere observed ; while the
presence of shipping gives the place an air of
commercial importance, strongly contrasted with
the aspect of uncontrolled Nature which per-
vades other parts of this coast. In common with
every other village, it possesses a commodious
native church, built of plank and thatched with
Pandanus leaves ; and, in addition, a small sa-
cred edifice, neatly fitted up, and devoted to the
use of foreign residents and visitors, at whose
expense it was erected.

The road continued along the coast to the
western village at Bunaania (a distance of about
eight miles) presents but few human habitations.
It passes through a constant succession of fer-
tile lands, bearing groves of guava, orange, bread-
fruit, and cocoa-nut trees ; the trunks of many
of the two last being encircled with fillets of
dried leaves, to denote that the fruit on their
boughs is tabooed, or reserved as the exclusive
property of some particular individuals. Several
mountain streams, crossed by rude bridges, in-

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65

tersect this route ; and an occasional hill com-
mands from its height a lovely prospect of the
richly vegetated lowlands beneath; the wide
expanse of blue ocean, relieved by the towering
mountains of Eimeo in the distance ; and the
small and verdant coral islets scattered over the
tranquil water enclosed by the great reef.

Bunaauia, in the district of Atehuru, is in
itself an interesting spot ; abounding in well
watered and richly pastured plains, and moun-
tain scenery of the wildest and most varied
description. Its village contains the printing
establishment through which useful publications,
in the Tahitian tongue, are diffused among the
Windward Islands. The press is under the
charge of Mr. Darling, the intelligent missionary
of this district, whose residence, and adjoining
lands, display a combination of simplicity with
elegance not very usual in the estates of Euro-
peans in Polynesia. A good horse- road com-
municates between all the districts on this side
of the island. It is known to both natives
and foreigners by the name of “ Broom-road ; ”
the task of sweeping it, and keeping it in repair,
being the more common punishment inflicted
upon offenders against the laws.

The principal harbour on this coast cor-
responds to the village at Pdpe^te. It is a ca-

VOL. I. F

66

A WHALING VOYAGE

pacious sheet of smooth water, of nearly circu-
lar form, closely land-locked, and capable of
containing a large fleet; it affords anchorage
close to the beach, and facilities for “ heaving
down ” ships to repair. It is, in short, the bmu
ideal of a safe and convenient port ; since it
rather resembles a capacious dock-basin than a
natural harbour. Matavai Bay, or Port Royal
Harbour, so commonly the resort of early navi-
gators, is now seldom if ever frequented by
shipping, for reasons that I have already stated ;
the two other anchorages, corresponding to the
coast of Taonda and Taond, though less objec-
tionable and more ein})loyed, arc exposed to
S. W. gales, and are considered less secure than
Papeete Bay, or Wilks’ Harbour.

A pilot boards an arrived v(;ssel outside the
reef, conducts her to an anchorage, and again
takes charge of her upon sailing ; for this ser-
vice a demand is made of fiftecni Spanish dol-
lars, eight of which Ijelong to the queen of the
island, and seven to the i)ilot. The present
occupant of the pilot’s office is an eccentric
native, named Jim ; he is a travelled man, speaks
English fluently, and has some little knowledge
of seamanship ; but the only duty for which he
is responsible, or with which it would be alto-
gether safe to entrust him, is that of pointing

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67

out the reef entrances and the different an-
chorages.

Near the entrance to Papeete harbour there is a
low coral islet, covered with cocoa-nut and other
litoral trees, and named by the natives moiu uta,
or the islet near the shore. It is surrounded
by a platform built of coral blocks, on which
are mounted eight cannon, commanding the
village and harbour of Papeete. On particular
occasions, and always as the signal for a strange
sail being seen in the offing, the Tahitian flag
(three stripes, red, white, red, horizontally dis-
posed) is displayed on its shores. Several
native dwellings are erected upon it ; including
one belonging to the Oueen of Tahiti, with
whom this, her citadel, is a very favourite resi-
dence.

The lowlands of Tahiti have lately undergone
a considerable change in their appearance, from
the extent to which the guava shrub flourishes
on their soil. Scarce twenty years have elapsed
since this fruit-tree was- first introduced here
from Norfolk Island, and it now claims all the
moist and fertile soil, in spite of every attempt
to check its increase. The woodlands and
bush, for miles in extent, are composed almost
solely of this shrub, bearing during the entire
year a constant succession of delicious fruit.

68

A WHALING VOYAGE

and not unfrequently both mature berries and
clusters of large white blossoms on the same
bough. The natives are very partial to the
fruit, and consume a large quantity of it ; but
during the months of March and April, when
the crop is most abundant, no ordinary con-
sumption can equal the supply, and vast num-
bers lie on the soil, unnoticed even by the sur-
feited hogs, which will touch none but the
sweetest or most inviting in appearance. The
stony hardness of its seeds, resisting the diges-
tive power of animals, tends to disseminate the
plant in every available direction. On dry soil,
however, it is neither prolific nor luxuriant in
growth ; it chiefly affects the moist and shel-
tered lands ; and is no where so abundant, or
bears such excellent fruit, as near the banks of
rivers. No pasturage will grow on the plains it
covers ; but the leaves of the guava itself afford
a good provender for cattle, and both horses
and oxen eat its fruit with avidity, and thrive
well upon it.

The Tahitian villages invariably occupy the
level land in the close .vicinity of the sea-shore.
The scattered dwellings, of which they are com-
posed, are much as described by the earliest
European visitors ; the walls are constructed of
bamboo or hibiscus rods, optionally covered with

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69

leaf mats, or with leaves sufficiently thinly
spread to be pervious to light and air ; the roof
(the only part of the building on which much
care is expended) is double inclined, and thatched
with leaves of the screw-pine. The interior is
one capacious apartment, with a floor of con-
densed earth, covered with a thick layer of grass,
and spread with mats for repose. One large hut
is often occupied by several families, who live in
common, and usually in the society of swine,
dogs, and poultry, which prove of essential ser-
vice in removing the refuse food that the resi-
dents leave about the floor in a very slovenly
manner. The only furniture they possess, in
imitation of European, is a bedstead covered
with mats, and a rude kind of sofa.

A few habitations, approaching nearer to the
European style in being built of plank, and di-
vided into apartments with boarded floors, can
scarcely be considered improvements, either in
comfort or appearance : they soon become dila-
pidated, and long remain so, owing to the trouble
that attends repairing or rebuilding them ; while
their apartments are always in a very disorderly
and filthy condition, whatever may be the rank
of the occupants.

Nor does the costume of the islanders evince
that advance in civilisation which might be ex-

70

A WHALING VOYAGE

pected from their long intercourse with Eu-
ropeans. On ordinary occasions, the lower class
of men are yet content with the scanty maro, or
cloth girdle ; and the best attire of the chiefs
consists of a cotton shirt and neckerchief, a few
yards of calico folded round the waist and legs,
and a beaver or straw hat. The females, with a
propensity common to their sex, indulge more
largely in foreign modes. They patronise to a
great extent the importation of cotton prints,
and even silks, which they make into loose gowns,
in distant imitation of the English dress. Thus
clothed, with the addition of a handkerc'liief or
shawl, and a becoming bonnet trimmed with
ribbons, the Taliitian belle presents a respectable
and modernized appearance ; she cannot, how-
ever, forget the paren, or native petticoat ; con -
sequently this is represented by a piece of calico,
folded round the waist and descending over the
gown.

The principal improvements the natives havi'
made are in religious observances, and in tlie
acquirement of the rudiments of education ; the
greater number can read the Scriptures in the
Tahitian tongue ; many can write a legible hand,
and some few possess a good knowledge of
arithmetic. The women have been instructed
in platting straw-cinnet, in manufacturing hats

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71

and bonnets, in the use of the needle, and
in the duties of domestic servants. The men
are, to a limited • extent, capable of working
as shipwrights, blacksmiths, carpenters, and
joiners ; many also engage themselves to ships
frequenting their island, when they speedily per-
form the duties of ordinary seamen with steadi-
ness and ability.

The commerce of Tahiti consists in the ex-
portation of pearl-shell and pearls, sugar, cocoa-
nut oil, and arrow-root ; and in the importation
of some few European manufactures, ehiefly
hardware and cloth. It is altogether conducted
by foreigners ; as the natives have not the ex-
clusive possession of any vessel larger than a
double canoe. A few schooners and sloops,
built on the island by the missionaries and other
European 'residents, are employed in traffic be-
tween the principal Polynesian islands ; and
their voyages are occasionally extended to South
America and New South Wales. The numerous
English and American whale-ships, calling at
the island, yield the natives much emolument in
the form of port dues, and by large demands for
supplies, and render Tahiti, of all the islands in
the Pacific, second only to Oahu, of the Sand-
wich group, in commercial importance. Trade
in kind has now given place to the circulation

72

A WHALING VOYAGE

of specie ; but the currency is limited to dollars,
and other silver coins, as the natives cannot yet
appreciate the value of copper or gold.

The prospect of Tahiti proving equal to Oahu
in commercial prosperity is yet very distant.
Not only are the Georgian less favourably si-
tuated as an emporium for foreign trade than
the Sandwich Islands, but a much more im-
portant diiference also exists in the domestic
condition of their respective inhabitants. The
Tahitians, unfortunate, it may be said, in the
possession of a land too luxuriously fertile, have
scarce any incentives to industry or commercial
enterprise ; they have occasion to exert them-
selves but optionally, or at most for the supply
of their few exotic wants, and do not know what
it is to subsist upon the fruits of their labour — a
lesson often too hardly learned by the less pam-
pered, and more aristocratically-oppressed Sand-
wich Islander. To this cause, as well as to the
abundant production of sandal-wood, which early
distinguished the Sandwich Islands, bringing
foreign ships to their shores, wealth to their
chiefs, and giving the people a stimulus to com-
merce, we must mainly attribute the fact, that,
notwithstanding its priority of intercourse with
civilized nations, Tahiti remains at least half

ROUND THE GLOBE. 73

a century behind Oahu in civilized improve-
ments.*

A consul from the United States of America
has lately been appointed to this island, so much
the resort of American shipping. The British
consul, R. Charlton, Esq. whose charge includes
the Society and Sandwich groups, resides at the
more important island of Oahu, a distance of
five weeks sail from Tahiti, and the communica-
tion uncertain ; his duties at this port are, con-
sequently, performed by deputy .-j'

The Tahitians, in common with other Poly-
nesian nations under the British or American
influence, possess a code of laws framed in the
purest spirit of justice. The judges and magis-
trates, selected from amongst the principal chiefs
and landholders, are implicitly obeyed by the
people ; and punishments, though usually le-

* It is a fa(;t, not altogether unconnected with the com-
mercial merits of the respective islands, and the proverbial
shrewdness of the American character, that the majority of
foreign residents at the Sandwicli group are subjects of tJie
United States; while those at the Georgian and Society
Islands are almost exclusively British.

t In 1837, Mr. Pritchard, the late excellent missionary
at this island, and who had for several years efficiently per-
forided the duties of consular agent, was appointed Her
Majesty’s Consul for the Society and Friendly Islands, to
reside at Tahiti.

74

A WHALING VOYAGE

nient, are comparatively rarely required. Minor
offences are visited by fines (pecuniary or in
kind) and compulsory labour ; the more serious,
by banishment or death. The penalty of death
is opposed to the feelings of the native legisla-
tors, and is very rarely awarded ; but the spec-
tacle of a public execution, by hanging, has been
exhiiiited among this people as the punishment
for murder, rape, and treason. The present
form of government is a limited monarchy, or a
combination of the monarchieal and aristocratic ;
a supreme head is acknowledged : but it is evi-
dent that the power of the superior chiefs, sup-
ported by their numerous retainers, is greater
than that of the sovereign, whom they rather to-
lerate than implicitly obey. When Cajitain
Cook visited this island, the succession of the
royal chiefs would appear to have been un-
settled ; but for many years past it has continued
hereditary in one family. The present sove-
reign, Aimata, or Pomare Valiine, the only
daughter of Pomare II.* succeeded to this dig-
nity in 1827, upon the death of her infant bro-
ther, Pomare, the third of that name. At the age
of fourteen, Aimata married Tapoa, or Pomare,

* The son and successor of Pomare 1. who was the
royal chief Otoo, of Captain Cook.

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75

the son of the royal chief of Tahaa ; but the
connexion proved neither happy nor of long con-
tinuance ; a divorce ensued, and the Queen con-
tracted a second marriage with a young chief to
whom she has borne two children. Both the
latter perished by dysentery ; and the intense
grief of the mother, upon the death of her last
infant, has gained for her, amongst the natives,
the somewhat poetical sobriquet of Arii am, or
the Queen of Lamentations. In person, Aimata
is below the mid stature and inclined to corpu-
lenc(i ; her age, at the time we last saw her, was
about seven- and- twenty, when Taliitian women
begin to look elderly ; her features are not
handsome, and have a pensive expression, with
some traits of a wayward and petulant disposi-
tion. As is usual, however, with most Tahitian
females, her smile is peculiarly sweet, and casts
at once a gleam of beauty over otherwise but
ordinary features. In the upper part of her
countenance, and especially in a somewhat va-
cant stare with large eyes, she bears a strong-
resemblance to the extant portraits of her pa-
rent Pomare. Her long and black hair is usually
permitted to flow wildly over her shoulders ; but
ondress occasions it is worn curled over the fore-
head and covered by a bemnet.

During the early period of her career, as sove-

76

A WHALING VOYAGE

reign of Tahiti, the character this lady supported
was not calculated to inspire respect. Casting
aside all restraints, she shared unblushingly in
the licentiousness for which this island is so no-
torious ; nor was it until the year 1831, that she
was recalled to a sense of duty. At that time
she was implicated with a large portion of the
population, acting in direct opposition to the
existing laws of the island, and anxious to abolish
the trammels they imposed, and to reinstate the
vicious usages of former days. Many of the
principal chiefs being opposed to these proceed-
ings, a quarrel ensued between the adverse par-
ties, which, although not carried beyond the
assemblage of armed forces on either side, and
much wordy warfare, sufficiently proved that the
advocates for the improved ordering of society
surpassed their opponents no less in number
than in professions of moral rectitude. Nothing
therefore remained for the mortified Queen but
to submit to her powerful rebellious chieftains,
and, relinquishing the “ tuta auri ” * party she
had hitherto espoused, to promise obedience to
the established laws. Since this severe penance,
Aimata has continued to live a new life, and
preserves, under the surveillance of chiefs and

*

L.Vlev‘a\\^ ruat^ ivou — i*ou\ and wortldess.

ROUND THE GLOBE. 77

missionaries, a staidness of deportment which
almost defies slander.

In her domestic habits the queen differs
but little from native women in a very inferior
grade of life. It is, indeed, remarkable, both of
the sovereigns and principal chiefs of this island,
that, notwithstanding the wealth they derive
from the commercial advantages of their
country, the attentions shown them by the
powerful governments of Europe and America,
and the deference to their authority displayed
by the people they govern, they should have so
long refrained from assuming any token of
superior rank in their persons or habits. They
are not insensible to their privileges, or even
to the respect due to their station ; nor
are they backward in demanding the tribute
and services of their dependents ; but nothing
can induce them to relinquish the primitive
customs in which they have been reared, or to
make any alteration in their mode of life which
would lead the population to satirize them as
fahie, or proud. Hence, it is usual to see the
queen Aimata, clad in a loose cotton gown,
bare-headed, and bare-footed, mingling fami-
liarly with natives of every class. Her meals,
also, are equally unostentatious ; the breadfruit,
po'e, cocoa nuts, and baked pig, intended for

78

A WHALING VOYAGE

her food, being placed on a layer of fresh leaves,
spread on the ground, while the partaking party
display, by the use of their fingers, a thorough
contempt for the modern innovation of knives
and forks, in the use of which, however, they
are perfectly well versed.

There are six residences belonging to the
queen on the N. W. side of the island alone.
The two j)rincij)al of these, at Pji])eetp and
Pajiaoa, are built of plank, and divided into
apartments with boarded floors. In size and
style they resemble the low^est class of English
cottages. The others are neatly-eonstructed
liuts, which have a more national and c;omfort-
able appearance than the fornuT. Tin* furnituri'
contained in all is of the most portable and
indispensable description.

Several young and interesting females, or
“ maids of honour,” are devoted to th(' domestic
sen’ii^e of Aimata, and (unless in attendance
upon her person elsewhere) reside upon the se-
cluded motu at the mouth of Papeete harbour.
The most interesting spectacle, connected with
royalty, we noticed at Tahiti, was ten of these
young females in a largt^ doubhveanoe, convey-
ing the queen from her islet-residence to attend
at church. They were uniformly clothed in
j)ink gowns, with blue their hair dressed

ROUND THE GLOBE.

79

a I' Europe, and addrned with large tortoise-shell
combs ; (the prevailing fashion of the day ;)
while their light laugh and merry gossip, as
they plyed their paddles, enlivened the calm
waters of the bay, and gave a new charm to the
bright but reposing scenery around.

The Tahitians are now a Christian nation.
They worship in the Presbyterian form, and are
under the pastoral care of eight British mis-
sionaries, who reside in the principal districts
round the island, and have charge of the whole;
although in some of the more remote villages
native teachers perform the clerical duties.

No opinion is more ([uestionable than that
hazarded upon the amount of religious feeling
possessed by any large community ; but we are
justified in beliei’ing that these islanders are
good average Christians, if we compare their
spiritual state with that of the Christian world
at large. Many of them appear to be sincerely
devout, and steadfast both in faith and works ;
others are induced by hypocrisy and interested
motives, or influenced only by the prevailing
opinions of the day ; while a third, and by far
the most numerous class, pass through the
routine of devotional forms from a sense of
propriety, or by the coercion of the laws, but
view religious matters with indiflerence and

80

A WHALING VOYAGE

would be glad to escape from tbeir restraints.
The strictness, however, with which the island
laws enforce the observance of religious forms
leaves the native but httle latitude to gratify his
inclination in this respect ; consequently, on the
Sabbath* the churches are filled with the entire
population, clothed in decent attire, and pre-
senting an orderly and contented appearance
which makes a very favourable impression upon
the foreign visitor.

That a large proportion of the natives are
well instructed, and impressed with the im-
portance of their new religion, may be inferred
from the many of their number that haye
emigrated as teachers to the idolatrous islands,
where, by their precept and example, they have
done much to disseminate improved habits and
the pure doctrine of the Christian faith. It is also

* Altlioiigli the day of our arrival at Tahiti was Saturday,
both by our reckoning and by tlic meridian of the island,
we found that the inhabitants regarded it as Sunday ; and
were, consequently, occupied in the observance of their
Sabbath. This error arose from the first band of Jlritish
missionaries, in the ship DulF, having made their voyage
to Tahiti by the eastern route, without correcting their
time for the day they had apparently gained. The present
missionaries are well aware of the nature of the mistake,
but, instead of rectifying, have rather propagated it
through the Society and other islands.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

81

but justice to admit, that crimes of magnitude
are now of rare occurrence amongst them ; and
that the dishonesty they so prominently dis-
played upon their early intimacy with Europeans
is now greatly diminished, or merged into the
more ambiguous form of mercantile shrewdness.

Notwithstanding these points of improvement,
the I’esident missionaries speak of the native
ch.aracter in terms of severe reprobation ; de-
scribing it as strongly marked by ingratitude
and deceit. Nor had we at this visit any rea-
son to admire the conduct of the people, as
displayed on the coast : the abundance and
indiscriminate sale of ardent spirits, as well as
the laxity of the laws which })ermitted the sen-
suality of a sea-port to be carried to a boundless
extent, caus( d scenes of riot and debauchery to
be nightly exhibited at Pa])eete that would have
disgraced the most profligate purdicus of Lon-
don. By partaking in these, the natives had
degraded their physical no less than their
moral state, and in the slovenly, haggard, and
diseased inliabitants of the port, it was vain
to attempt to recognise the prepossessing figure
of the Tahitian, as pictured by Cook, and as yet
seeh among the purer races in the less commer-
cial parts of the island.

The present state of the missionaries at Ta-

VOL. 1. G

82

A WHALING VOYAGE

hiti is far from being one of privation or toil.
Eaeh possesses at his station a neat and modest,
but often tastefully furnished cottage, with en-
closed lands under pasturage or cultivation ;
and a large supply of horses, oxen, and other live
stock. They own several boats, and a schooner
is always at their command to facilitate their
communication with other islands of the Pacific.
Their children (of which each family usually
contains many) receive a good education at the
South Sea Academy, established for that pur-
pose at the island of Eimeo. They receive no
remuneration from the natives, Ix-yond the
lands on which they reside, and are ostensibly
dependent upon the stipend Aiey receive from
their Society in England. Some cocoa-nut oil
was formerly contributed by these islanders in
aid of the funds of the London Missionary So-
ciety, but this practice has been lately discon-
tinued, probably upon some principle of chur(;h
reform.

It is supposed that the interior and mountain-
ous parts of Tahiti are inhabited by a timid and
secluded race of people. This supposition is
partly grounded upon the reports of natives, that
they have, during their inland explorations, oc-
casionally seen such strange jx'ople ; but chiefly
upon the fact, that a few years since on<; of this

ROUND THE GLOBE.

83

wild race was secured whilst sleeping and brought
to the coast, where he was detained for some
time by the missionaries, but ultimately effected
his escape, and was not again seen. This indi-
vidual is described as being a weU-formed man,
with long and flowing hair ; he was timid and
unsocial, and no conversation could be held
with him. It is the general opinion that these
are natives of the coast, who have sought in the
more inaccessible parts of the land a refuge from
the wars and human sacrifices of the idolatrous
times. They are called in the native language
taata taehae, or wild men. It may be fairly
questioned if they are not maniacs, whose
mental delusions' have led them to seek this
secluded mode of life.

The climate of this island is usually serene
and agreeable. Rain falls in capricious and
refreshing showers at all periods of the year,
but is most abundant and continuous during
the summer months. In the months of March
and April we found the average height of the
thermometer, in the shade, to be 83“ ; on one
occasion it marked as high as 90“ ; but this de-
gree, of heat is rare, and only obtains during a
perfect calm. Thunder is of remarkably fre-
quent occurrence ; and the phenomena of water-

G 2

84

A WHALING VOYAGE

spouts are commonly exhibited in the ocean
around this and the neighbouring islands.

The quadrupeds of Tahiti are limited to
swine, dogs, and rats, indigenous ; and horses,
oxen, goats, asses, mules, and cats, imported, or
bred on the island. Rabbits have been intro-
duced upon the coral islets ; but they have not
increased, and it is suspected that the rats de-
stroy their young.

The oxen are a fine breed, I’esembling the
English in size and general appearance ; the
original stock having been chiefly imported from
New South Wales. They are prolific, and thrive
well upon the pasturage the hills and plains
afford them. Some few run wild ; but the ma-
jority are kept in a domestic state both by
natives and foreign residents, who conjointly
possess between 300 and 400 head of these use-
ful animals. They afford an abundance of riiii
milk ; and beef, scarce anything inferior to that
of England, is supplied to shi])ping in the jjort
at about 2d. per pound. The natives are fast
losing the prejudice they at first (mte^rtained
against the use of this animal as food, and
many will now jiartake freely both of milk and
beef when opportunity offers.

The horses are imjiorted from .South Ame-
rica ; they are never shod, are employed only

ROUND THE GLOBE.

85

for the saddle, and are in very general use both
with natives and European residents. The na-
tive females partake equally with the men in
equestrian exercises. They ride a la fourchette,
in the manner of the South American ladies,
(the lower part of the person being enveloped
in an ample pareu,) and are very bold horse-
women. Goats arc numerous ; but the natives
have an insuperable objection to them on ac-
count of their odour, and will on no account
partake of their flesh. The attempts which have
been made to breed sheep on this island have
bc(!n generally unsuccessful ; both the climate
and i)asturage are o]>posed to the habits of
these animals, and little hope can he entertained
that their wool will ever prove of any com-
mercial value.

The swine are excellent ; but in the present
mixed breed it is im})ossible to detect any trace
of the aboriginal hog of Polynesia. The pricked
ears of the latter animal have in almost every
instance given place to the broad and pendent
cars, the “ badge of slavery.” They are per-
mitted by their owners to roam at large, and
subsist upon the superfluous productions of the
fruit-groves. When tired of a vegetable diet,
they wander to the sea shore and indulge in
shell-fish. When they are taken to sea, as live

86

A WHALING VOYAGE

Stock, it is necessary to provide a supply of
ripe cocoa-nuts for their support ; as they will
long refuse to touch grain, or the ordinary food
of more domesticated swine. Thus provided,
however, they make excellent voyagers, and
seldom die at sea from natural causes.

The aboriginal dog has also merged into a
mongrel breed. The Tahitians formerly con-
sidered a dog, fed on vegetable food, a deli-
cate dish ; and although the impairment of the
purity of the breed, and the prejudices of
Europeans, have done much to abolish this taste,
it is still not unfrequently indulged.

To all their exotic quadrupeds the Tahitians
apply the generic names of their indigenous
kinds ; giving to the larger the name of huaa,
or pig, and to the smaller that of wn, the dog,
or tore, the rat. The ox they name huaa-toro,
or pig with a long neck ; the horse, hnm-horo-
fenua, or pig that runs quickly over the ground ;
the goat, buaa-niho, pig with teeth (horns) on
its head ; and the shee}), buaa-mamoe. The
monk(3y, of which some examples have been
taken to their shores, they call nn-taata, the
man-dog ; and the cat, iore-pii-fare, the rat that
climbs the house.

Domestic fowls are the only poultry indige-
nous to this island. Moscovy ducks and

ROUND THE GLOBE. 8/

pigeons have been introduced, but are not as
yet abundant.

Of the indigenous vegetation, we will only, in
this place, notice the sugar cane, or to, which
is now so largely cultivated in the savannahs of
Tahiti. The plant grows spontaneously on the
plains and sheltered hills ; hut is then very infe-
rior in size and quality to the cultivated kind,
whieh attains the height of eight feet, with a
stalk five or six inches in circumference. The
natives recognise many varieties of this plant,
to whieh they apply appropriate names.

We learn, from the statements of Mr. Porter,
that the sugar-cane of Tahiti, introduced into
our West India colonies, maintains some supe-
riority over the cane commonly grown in those
islands ; ’ siru^e it withstands excessive drought
in a remarknhle degree, comes to maturity in
ten months, (four or six months earlier than the
ordinary kind,) and its juice contains a less pro-
portion of colouring matter.

The principal sugar plantations at Tahiti are
those belonging to Messrs. Bicknell, Henry, and
Pritchard. The raw sugar produced from them
(and which is not inferior to that of the W^est
Indies), is sold on the island at six cents, or
three pence, the pound ; and molasses at three
rials, or eighteen pence, the gallon. This branch

88

A WHALING VOYAGE

of commerce was at one time abolished here
through the jealous apprehensions of the na-
tives, who are yet very averse to seeing fo-
reigners derive any profit from their land, in
which they do not themselves partake. To ob-
viate this last objection, some of the resident
merchants adopt the laudable plan of allowing
the natives to grow the cane, and purchasing
from them the ripe crop ; a plan which, consi-
dering the uncertainty and extravagant price of
native labour, is preferable in both a political
and economical point of view.

ROUND THE GLOBE.

89

CHAPTER IV.

Leave Tahiti — Visit Raiatea — Scenery of its coast — Our
reception )»y the natives — Description of the Island —
Its coral formations ' — Reefs — Reef-apertures — Their
causes considered — Peculiarities and beauties of the
shore-reefs — Molus — Their character and a|)parent
origin — Tides — Anchorages — Settlement at Utumaoro
— Division and cultivation of the land — Native dwell-
ings — Futile attempts of the missionaries to improve
them — Public l)uildings — Present state of the inhabit-
ants — Their moral and physical character — Clothing —
Ornaments — Food — Raneful ellects of the abuse of
ardent spirits — Fci tumours — Native modes of fishing —
Divided occupations of tlie. sexes.

Our stay at Tahiti was protracted but a few
days beyond the time recpiired to land our mis-
sionary passengers, whose arrangements led
them to make a short sojourn here, previous to
separating for their respective stations. Early
on the morning of the 2Gth of March we availed
ourselves of the land wind, and, leaving this
island, steered to the N.W.

At noon on the following day, (when the
islands Huahinc, Raiatea, Tahaa, and Bdra-
hOra, of the Society group, were in sight,) we
eiKiountered a severe ga^e from the westward.

90

A WHALING VOYAGE

attended with much thunder and lightning, and
which compelled us to take shelter under the lee
of Huahine until daylight on the 28th, when,
the weather being more moderate, we again
made sail for the island of Raiat^a, now distant
about twenty miles. Upon approaching the
latter island, and passing through the eastern
aperture in the reef which encircles its coast, a
scene of great beauty was unfolded to our
view : the lofty and well-vegetated mountains of
the interior of the land arose before us in sombre
majesty, and at less than a stone’s-throw on
either side of our route a coral islet, covered
with vegetation, and set as an emerald in the
bosom of the lagoon water, communicated a re-
freshing odour to the serene morning air ; the
whole offering charms which scarcely permitted
us to notice the narrow and dangerous channel
we were threading, with a raging surf beating
violently upon the reef within a short distance
on either side of the ship. A few minutes suf-
ficed to carry us through this passage, when we
experienced a sudden transition from the sea in
its most raging and destructive form, to the
same water under its most isolated and reposing
aspect.

As we glided slowly along the coast, groups
of natives assembled on the beach, gazing at our

BOUND THE GLOBE.

91

approach, and welcoming, with their wild cries,
the arrival of a ship to whose almost annual
visits they had been for many years accustomed;
and we had scarcely cast anchor in the harbour
of Utumaoro before the decks were crowded with
the same people, attired in holyday costume,
their heads adorned with chaplets of wild flow-
ers, or green and fragrant leaves, and all bearing
in their hands baskets of fruit and shells, either
for barter, or as presents for their European
friends.

llaiat('‘a (formerly called Ulitea)* is situated
about 1 30 miles to the N.W. of Tahiti. Although
it is the largest island of the Society group its
(urcumference does not exceed forty miles. It
is encircled by a reef, which also includes Tahaa
— a strait, three miles across, alone separating
the two isL;nds. Though limited in its extent,
it has a bold and mountainous appearance, and
is no less picturesque than Tahiti. A dense
garment of foliage clothes its surface, from the
vallies to the mountain heights ; and although
occasional naked cliffs, and crags of black rock,
start from the verdure to arrest the eye by their
powerful relief, they can scarcely be said to in-
trude unpleasantly upon the general air of

* Tliis name signifies a white rat; and should, accord-
ing to the present written language of the people, be
spelled loretea.

92

A WHALING VOYAGE

unbounded fertility that pervades the soil. The
land attains its greatest elevation at its south
extremity, where a group of rugged and pin-
nacled mountains, their faces thickly timbered,
tower to the height of between 3,000 and 4,000
feet above the level of the sea.

The extent of perfectly level land is not great,
and seldom extends farther than a few hundred
yards from the sea-shore, hut some bi’oad and
fertile vallies rise from the coast to the interior
with a gentle acclivity, and deep and gkjomy
ravines occupy the intervals h(^tween tlie abrupt
faces of the mountains. The entire island is
but too well watered, mountain-streams, cas-
cades, and swamps, abountling in every dir(;c-
tion. The soil is e.xceedingly fertile, and rei)ays
generously the slightest labour bestowed on its
cultivation. Exotic fruit-trees thrive vigorously
upon it, and particularly the fruit of the lime,
which, while it proves so invaluable to foreign
shipping, affords a striking example of the im-
portant advantage's that accrue from the general
dissemination of useful fruits and vegetables.

Few natural objects are so well calculated to
excite wonder in the human mind as the coral
constructions, in all their Protean forms, that
surround the greater number of Polyiu'sian
islands, and which demonstrate so ])erfectly'
the i)OW«'r of nature to effect her vast designs

ROUND THE GLOBE.

93

through apparently feeble and inefficient agents.
It requires, indeed, an intimate acquaintance
with the habits of the lithophites, and ocular
proof of their labours, to credit what stupendous
submarine reefs, and islands many miles in com-
pass, are indebted for at least their entire visi-
ble structure, to the secretory economy of these
tiny architects.

In such examples Rai'at^a is not deficient:
On the contrary, she is indebted for a large share
of her natural beauties, as well as commercial
advantages, to the coral fabrics which surround
her shores. These chiefly obtain in the form of
reefs ; of which the nature and use may be best
understood by considering them under their
natural divisions of a harrier- and a shore-reef.
The former (‘iicircles the island, as a break-
water or sea-wall, at the distance of one and a
half or two miles from the land ; presenting a
preci])itous face to the ocean, to receive the as-
sault of its billows, but encroaching in a super-
ficial and (xipricious manner upon the lagoon
water it encloses. The shore-reef is continuous
with the land around the entire coast, and
stretches into the sea to a variable, but usually
to a very considerable, distance. Its gi-cater
portion is covered with shallow water, which
in many parts does not exceed, and is often

94

A WHALING VOYAGE

less than a foot in depth; its outer margin
shelves irregularly, and terminates abruptly in a
deep channel of blue water. Tliis channel
(which is also continued round the island) fur-
nishes a natural division between the two princi-
pal reefs, as well as a convenient passage for na-
vigation. Coral islets, shoals, or whatever other
form the madreporic rock may assume, can be
distinctly traced to one or the other of these
.apparently distinct reefs, but never occur as the
productions of both conjointly.

The outer or harrier-reef resembles a wall no
less in its structure th.an in its office : unlike
the finable .and arborescent material Me com-
monly associate with the name of cor.al, the rock
of which it is composed is hard, compact, and
amorphous, bearing much resemblance to a
very firm cement ; and it is only on its shoals,
extending towards the land, that we notice the
elegant form of the tree-coral, contrasting so
strongly with the rocky .and unornamental
structure on which it is planted, .as to justify a
doubt if both are constructed by the same
animals. The summit of this reef is flat ; several
yards in breadth ; but little raised above the
level of the sea ; and washed by a heavy surf,
which breaks against its sea- aspect, courses
over its level surface, and falls gently, and as it

ROUND THE GLOBE.

95

were by a line of cascades, into the placid basin
on the opposite side. At ebb tide, when the
surf is less in amount, this reef is partly dry and
accessible ; but when the tide is high, or the
weather tempestuous, the sea, raised into lofty
and magnificent arches, beats over the rocky
barrier with terrific grandeur, and with a roll-
ing or thundering sound which may be heard,
on a tranquil night, at the distance of several
miles. To persons unaccustomed to such scenes,
nothing is more deeply and agreeably im-
pressive than the view of a majestic surf thus
lashing the coast of an island opposed to the
play of a mighty ocean ; although it is incompre-
hensible or revolting to a sailor, to hear beauty
associated with a scene which only conveys to
his mind anxious and unpleasant reflections.

A curious and mysterious feature in the
construction of the barrier-reef, is presented in
the occasional apertures that exist in its fabric,
and which are of sufficient breadth and depth of
water to permit ships to sail tlirougli them with
facility. The presence of these apertures has been
variously accounted for. Some authors have
asserted, that they arise from interruptions the
coral-worms experience in their labours by an
efflux of fresh water from the large rivers open-
ing upon the coast ; but this is not a sufficient

96

A WHALING VOYAGE

reason— for, although there is often a very
striking coincidence in the situation of the
mouths of rivers and reef-apertures in the large
islands, such is not invariably the case ; while
in the low coral, and some other islands,* where
no rivers exist, we find very distinct openings
in the reefs. Neither is it easy to conceive, that
the fresh w'ater of a river, mingled with nearly
two miles of sea, and diverted by a tide, should
retain a power to affect the small portion of reef
immediately opposite its exit ; and this the more
particularly, since the shore-reef is not checked
by its influence, but, on the contrary, occupies
the entrance to rivers in common with other
parts of the coast. 1 am more inclined to be-
lieve, with Amoureux, that these apertures form
a part of the ai'chitectural design of the coral-
worm ; and are intended not only to permit,
but, (as they evidently do,) to increase the cir-
culation of the tides through the enclosed waters ;
thus securing to the lithopites a constant com-
munication with the ocean, in the j)lace of an
impervious and stagnant lagoon.

The shor e-reej is chiefly com})osed of amor-
phous rock, or block-coral ; though tree-coral
is also abundant upon it, as well as extisnsivi,

« (.'liristma.s Island, Caroline Island, and !M aiinia,
ainongsf fhose we visiled.

ROUND THE GLOBE. 9/

beds of sand. In many parts, where the water
is deep, it presents a submarine picture of
extreme beauty : extensive coral groves, planted
in beds of smooth and white sand, and mingling
hues of pink, blue, white, and yellow, appear
through the transparent sea; numerous small
fish, of brilliant colours, glide over the sands,
thread the labyrinths of the coral branches, or,
when alarmed, dart rapidly for shelter into the
recesses of the stony thickets ; the whole afford-
ing a peculiarly pleasing, and almost kaleide-
scopic effect.

There is, however, no feature in the scenery
of this coast that strikes the European observer
as more novel and lovely than the verdant islets,
or motus, which sti’ew the expanse of smooth
sea between the barrier reef and the main land.
They are composed entirely of coral ; are raised
scarcely three feet above the level of the sur-
rounding water ; and appear to be peculiar to
the barrier reef. They are most usually based
upon the shoals which constitute the lateral
boundaries of the reef apertures. It is probable
that they are formed from mature coral shoals,
which, after they had been raised to the surface
of the sea, had caused the water to recede from
their centre by the increase and elevation of
their circumference — the near approach to a

VOL. I.

H

98 TIDES. — ANCHORAGES.

circular form they invariably present being in
favour of this supposition. •

A motu may occasionally be seen in an in-
cipient state : a shoal with httle depth of water,
projecting but a few superficial feet of its centre
above the sea, rocky, and covered with two or
three stunted bushes struggling for existence —
affording a structure intermediate to an in-
undated shoal and a complete islet. The more
extensive and ornamental motus possess some
rich vegetable mould, covered with brushwood,
or with cocoa-nut, and other litoral trees. They
are destitute of fresh water ; and none of them
are inhabited, excepting by occasional visitors
from the main land, who repair hither for the
benefit of the purer sea air when suffering from
sickness.

A tide of some power runs through the ehannel
between the great reef and the shore. Its rise
and fall is inconsiderable, (seldom exceeding a
few inches,) but its changes occur with remark-
able regularity ; the water being invariably
highest at noon and midnight, and lowest at six
in the morning and at the same hour in the
evening.

Seven good anchorages exist on the lee and
weather sides of this island, accessible at all
times, and egress easy except with a due south

SETTLEMENT AT UTUMAORO. 99

wind. •They are capable of containing a large
fleet of ships, and in combined advantages are
surpassed by none in the Pacific. With the
prevailing trade winds, ships usually pass to
their anchorage through one of the two reef-aper-
tures placed adjacent to each other off the
Eastern coast,- and named Te Avapite, or double
entrance ; and on their departure, sail through
the reef-opening corresponding to the N. W.
coast, which was formerly employed by Captain
Cook as a passage to and from his favourite
anchorage at Hamaniino. Of the two coral islets
noticed by Cook at this last reef entrance, one
has disappeared, and the other, though yet of
respectable size, is visibly decreasing.

The missionary station, and principal port
of Raiatea, is the village of Utumaoro, on the
N. E. side of the land. Its site has been badly
chosen. The entire district is flat, swampy, and
insalubrious ; while the hills limit the arable
soil to a very small space, and throw the dwell-
ings of the natives close to the sea side. In
every respect, Utumaoro is very inferior to the
village ofVaoaara, on the N. W. side of the
land, and which was formerly employed as the
missionary station under the title of the “ City
of David.’ ’

The whole island is arbitrarily divided into

H 2

100

DWELLINGS OF THE NATIVES.

districts and spots ; to each of which the
natives give an appropriate name, however
small, barren, or inaccessible the tract may be.*
Cultivated lands are not numerous, and are
chiefly planted with sweet-potatoes, sugar-cane,
or arrow-root. The natives’ dwellings are con-
structed with a primitive simplicity which
speaks more in favour of the serenity of the
climate than of the domestic disposition of the
occupants. Their interior contains sleeping mats
spread on the floor, and provided with small
pillows filled with cotton ; (which have greatly
superseded, but not altogether exploded, the
use of the tiiaunia, or ancient wooden pillow) ;
low wooden stools, nohoraa, in the ancient
fashion ; an ^lmete and penu, or trough and
stone pestle, used in preparing their favourite
vegetable paste the poe ; scraped cocoa nut
shells, used as cups ; a mallet and plank for
the manufacture of bark cloth ; a fishing spear

* Both the Georgian and Society Islanders have a
strong prejudice against selling any portion of their lands.
They have no precedent, they say, for such a practice,
and are unwilling to commence it ; consequently, no
instance has yet occurred of foreigners obtaining land at
any of these islands, on other terms than by the purchase
of a long lease, or by a grant, which the government can
at any time retract.

ARCHITECTURAL LAWS.

lOl

or net; and a musket. Bunches of edible
fruits are suspended from the walls; and oc-
casionally a matronly sow, with a numerous
litter, occupies a comer of the common apart-
ment fenced off for her accommodation. A
separate shed is employed for cooking ; and a
plot of enclosed land, planted with useful ve-
getables or favourite flowers, surrounds many of
the huts. Some dwellings with boarded floors,
and supported on piles, are erected over the
shallow waters of the shore-reef at some dis-
tance from the land. The native, residing in this
eccentric situation, may be often seen seated on
his haunches fishing with rod and line from the
threshold of his door, and tossing the small fry
he captures upon the embers of a fire within,
where his wife attends to their cooking.

Strenuous exertions have been made by well
intentioned missionaries to prevail upon these
islanders to construct their habitations in the
neat and substantial style of English cottages,
and to substitute ornamental towns for groups
of huts. Laws were framed for this purpose ;
and the recusants had their old fashioned tene-
ments destroyed over their heads, that they
might have every incentive to commence the
new and improved system. The plan was at-
tended with no useful or permanent result ; the

102

NATIVE CHURCH.

people soon wearied in the labour of erecting
more complicated buildings, while their simple
huts answered every desirable purpose, and have
now reverted to their former abodes ; leaving
some ruinous wattled and plastered cottages,
as mementos of the attempt to make them more
comfortable than they wished to be.

The principal building in Utumaoro is the
church, recently erected there by a voluntary
contribution of labour and materials by the na-
tive population. It is a large edifice, placed
close to the sea side, and based upon a platform
of coral blocks raised about two feet from the
ground. In form, it resembles the ordinary
native hut ; its sides are of plank ; and its roof
covered with the leaves of the thatch-palm.
The interior is 120 feet in length by forty in
breadth, and proportionately lofty ; the floor is
neatly laid with planks of the bread-fruit tree ;
and the rafters are covered mth cocoa-nut cin-
net and stained tapa, which produce at once a
novel and pleasing effect. Each extremity of
the edifice has a door neatly painted and
moulded, and many windows, provided with
wooden bars in rude imitation of Venetian blinds,
which admit a sufficient supply of light and air.
A handsome pulpit, of European workmanship,
occupies its appropriate place ; and uniform

ROYAL LODGE.

103

benches are' arranged throughout the body of
the building. With a singular display of taste,
the exterior of the walls is painted black with a
white “ ribbon,” like the hull of a ship ; the
“ knees,” also, which strengthen the inside of
the walls, yet further betray the nautical imita-
tion of the architects. The natives commenced
and completed this church during the long in-
terval which has elapsed since any missionary
has been resident among them, and its execution
is certainly creditable to them in every respect.
At the period of our visit it had been finished
but a few months, and had not been opened for
divine service.

The only native dwelling built in the im-
proved, or cottage, style is the residence of
Tamatoa, the royal chief of the island. It is
wattled and plastered, provided with doors and
glazed windows, and contains several commo-
dious rooms with boarded floors. Two broad
and convenient jetties, constructed of blocks of
coral by criminal labour, extend from the beach
of the settlement to beyond the shallows of the
shore reef, and facilitate landing from boats.
Tjie largest of these, named Tamatoa’s wharf,
displays on an elevated staff the flag of Tahiti,
which is common to both the Georgian and So-
ciety Islands.

104 PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE.

The number.of inhabitants this island contains
does not exceed 1700, though the soil, if pro-
perly applied, is capable of maintaining a popu-
lation of more than treble that amount. In per-
sonal appearance the natives are not to be distin-
guished from Tahitians. They are a well-formed
race, in average stature superior to Europeans,
and their frames proportionately muscular. They
have all that plumpness and smoothness of skin
peculiar to Asiatics who enjoy a comfortable
mode of life ; but corpulence is comparatively
rare amongst them, and by no means peculiar
to the chiefs, who are often slender, while some
of the inferior people are extremely stout. The
clear brown complexion they possess is many
shades darker in some individuals than in others,
and in a few instances almost amounts to blai^k-
ness, without any apparent cause (as extraordi-
nary exposure to the sun) to account for the
difference. Their hair, also, which is generally
black and gloss}^, assumes in a few instances a
light or reddish colour in the adults and a
flaxen hue in the children. Their features are
pleasing, occasionally handsome, and express
much contentment and good humour ; in some
individuals (perhaps more particularly among
the higher ranks) they present a regularity of
outline, a thinness of the lips, and a prominence

NATURAL PECULIARITIES OF PERSON. 10.5

of nose (approaching to the aquiline) which
brings them nearer to the European cast. A
flat or perpendicular occiput is very remarkable
in the heads of this people, and, as well as a
confluent nose, is esteemed a trait of beauty.
Both these valued peculiarities are therefore en-
couraged in childhood ; the former, the nurse
endeavours to improve, by supporting the infant
only by the feet and the back of the head ; and
the latter, by occasionally retouching the ori-
ginal model of the nose by firm pressure with
the palm of the hand.*

The women of Raiatea are, for the most part,
disproportionately shorter than the men. The
pleasing expression, rather than the regularity
of their features, entitles many of them to be
termed ])retty, if not handsome. Their eyes are
sparkling and expressive ; their teeth are con-
spicuous for size, regularity, and whiteness ; and
their smile is peculiarly captivating. 1 have

* Natural personal peculiarities often form the basis on
which the national idea of beauty is founded. The natives
of Bengal consider long ears a great personal attraction,
and raise their children from the ground by these append-
age^ in order to increase their line of beauty. European
mothers, in that country, find it dillicult to prevent the
same practice being pursued towards their olfspring by the
native nurses.

106 MORAL CHARACTER OF THE ISLANDERS,

looked in vain, however, for the grace, or ele-
gance of figure, so much praised in these, and
other Polynesian females: although well pro-
portioned, their figures are too developed and
masculine to be graceful. They stand awk-
wardly, with their feet set widely apart, and their
toes turned in almost to deformity ; while their
general carriage is careless, and indicative of the
crouching sedentary posture in which they com-
monly indulge.

Neither sex is remarkable for an agreeable
voice ; and although the dialect they employ is
melodious, and capable of much softness in pro-
nunciation, their mode of speaking it is clamor-
ous and discordant.

It is difficult to define the disposition of this
people, since its most prominent feature is ca-
price. They are, however, shrewd and intelli-
gent obseners; strongly disposed to mirth;
mild and peaceable unless excited by any act of
injustice ; and familiar and hospitable towards
foreigners. They are naturally indolent, but are
capable of bearing a fair proportion of labour,
and when trained to the habits of Europeans are
not deficient in mental or physical power.*

* A Society Islander can, upon an emergency, undergo
much more fatigue than an European ; and although,
during an ordinary journey, he will often sit down to rest

“white lies.” 107

They are certainly covetous ; but the feeling as-
sumes in them tliat childish and inconsistent
character that leads them to obtain some de-
sired property, which, its value diminishing with
possession, is soon after as freely bestowed as
it was anxiously acquired. In their conduct
toward each other they are generous ; and no re-
proach is so hurtful to their feelings as that of
avarice. Vanity, with its concomitant, the dread
of ridicule and censure, is a prominent feature
in their character : we were often amused by
observing the tact with which one native would
play upon this weak point in another, and by
dint of flattery obtain the grant of some desired
favour.

They betray much inclination to indulge in
false statements ; though the latter are usually
of the character which some moralists have
bleached, as being unattended by the wish or
power to injure. This habit chiefly prevails
with the young ladies who sit down to a parapa-
rou or gossiping party, and, who, when their stock
of facts is exhausted, amuse each other with
many' tales of their own invention. Should any

when his white companion thinks such relaxation unneces-
sary /this indolence arises rather from a habit he has con-
tracted of making himself comfortable than from any ina*
hility to endure exertion.

108 PRESENT STATE OF THE FEMALES.

foreigner be present, and remark upon the fal-
sity of their statements, they express neither
surprise nor confusion, but coolly reply, “ was
it not so ? — you know best — perhaps it was not
so but should any one of the gossips take the
same liberty, the narrator bridles up with an in-
dignant look, and vents a petulant expression
that defies orthography, but which is highly ex-
pressive of disgust at the ill-manners of her com-
panion.

Their language has no word beyond maitai,
good, to acknowledge the receipt of a kindness ;
nor has it any equivalent to “ gratitude and
there is reason to believe that the feeling itself is
rather more deficient in these people than in Eu-
ropeans.

Neither sex is at all social in domestic life.
The treatment of the women is now in no way
objectionable ; the wife shares with the husband
the duties of their station, the more laborious
being assigned to the man. The majority of
the married women have a potential voice in
domestic arrangements, and in traffic it is
often difficult to get a man to conclude a
bargain until his wife has been consulted. The
removal of some ancient prejudices has raised
the native woman to her proper grade in society;
but while her physical condition is thus im-

RAIATEAN STANDARD OF SUPERIORITY. 109

proved, the same advance is not perceptible in
her moral character. Chastity is not esteemed
a virtue either in the single or married state ;
on the contrary, licentiousness is so interwoven
with the national habits that a virtuous female
is here a rare exception to her sex, is held in no
esteem, and is seldom to be met with even in
name — a remark which does not except the blood
royal, nor even the most devout members of the
church. The missionaries have been naturally
anxious to suppress so prominent a vice ; but in
no part of their task have they been less suc-
cessful. The strict laws enacted on this subject
have tended but to restrain the more open
profligacy ; and unless deUnquents can be made
liable to the same moral punishments as in well
ordered nations, no radical amendment can be
expected.

These people found their ideas of great men
upon the most literal basis : they invariably as-
sociate a lofty mind with a corresponding alti-
tude of person ; and entertain but little respect
for short men, or, as they are apt to term them,
boys. A missionary, sent amongst them some
years ago, occasioned much disappointment by
the lowness of his stature, and many impatient
inquiries, of slighted consequence, if there
were no taller men in Beritani, that a teacher so

no

NATIVE GUIDES,

small as this should be allotted them ?” A some-
what paradoxical taste is also evinced for a fair
complexion, or the nearest approach to one ;
taata ere ere, or blackman, they regard as a term
of reproach ; each, probably, thinking himself
less dark than his neighbour.

When travelling over this island we found the
natives active and trustworthy guides. The care
they displayed in pointing out the most practi-
cable paths over the rugged hills, in conducting,
unasked, to the limpid streams in the vicinity of
our route, climbing for cocoa nuts, or offering
the wild sugar cane they had gathered in the
thickets, and, above all, a practice they have,
when passing through dense brushwood, of
breaking the elastic boughs they displace, that
they might not recoil upon their companions
following in their trail, were attentions it was
impossible not to appreciate. As Goldsmith
observes, “ ceremonies are different in every
country, but true politeness is every where the
same ; ” there is, perhaps, no situation in which
a Raiatean appears to greater advantage than
when thus performing the office of a guide
through his native wilds.

The European dress is adopted here as- at
Tahiti, though to a less extent. On ordinary
occasions, the greater number of the male po-

ANCIENT COSTUME.

IIJ

pulation wear nothing but the maro, an undress,
to which the practice of tatooing chiefly applies,
the figures imprinted on the skin serving as a
substitute for clothing, at least as far as a
desire for ornament may induce to the use of
apparel. The full-dress costume of ancient days
is yet frequently worn without any variation
in style or material. It is nearly the same
in both sexes; and consists of an ample fold
of bark-cloth, secured round the waist, and en-
veloping the lower part of the person as a
petticoat, or pareii ; while a second garment
is either the tiputa (a piece of cloth perforated in
its centre to admit the head, and worn sus-
pended over the breast and back in the manner
of the South American poncho,) or the ahufara,
cast loosely over the shoulders as a scarf,
or inwrapping the entire person as a cloak.
Fine purau mats, prepared from the bark of the
Hibiscus tree, and used both for pareus and
tiputas, are esteemed by many of the chiefs as
their most valuable articles of clothing, and are
often worn by them on occasions of ceremony
in preference to European cloth. No covering
for the head or feet obtains in the ancient cos-
tume, unless we except the taumata, a shade of
platted cocoa-nut leaves extemporaneously pre-
pared to protect the face from the fervour of

112

DEGRADING MODERN OHESSES.

the sun, and secured over the forehead by a fillet
encircling the hfiad.

These islanders have not improved their
appearance by the partial extent to which
they have assumed the English dress. They
have, in this point, lost their national character,
without having attained any half so respectable
or well adapted to their habits and climate.
We have fi'equently seen, amongst the congre-
gation assembled at church, a native clothed in
nothing but a shirt ; another with a beaver hat
surmounting a person, naked, except the scanty
maro ; and a third, whose whole attire was a
black coat, white neckerchief, and a shirt — the
grotesque effect may be imagined.

Both sexes usually wear their hair cropped,
and often shorn at the crown of the head. This
custom (which is one of their own adoption) di-
minishes the personal attractions of the females
as much as long hair and the use of a bonnet
increases them. They anoint their liair with
scented cocoa-nut oil, or smear it over with a vis-
cid gum-resin obtained from the trunk of the ta~
manu tree, (CalUphyllum Inophyllum,) and which
causes it to remain in any desired form, while
it imparts to it a moist and glossy appearance.
The white and fragrant flowers of the tibi, or
Cape-jasmine, are worn in the ears, and gai;-

NATURAL ORNAMENTS.

113

lands around the head. These last are composed
of the more agreeable vegetable productions,
as many kinds of fern, selected either for their
elegant plumy growth or for a pleasant odour
they emit when withering, as the enai, (Angiop-
• teris evectaj or the mairi ; (Polypodium Sp . ;)
club-mosses of ornamental growth, os Lycopodium
phlegmaria, and L. cernuum ; the aged and yel-
low leaves of the ti ; mosses from the trunks of
trees ; the divided drupes of the fara, or Pan-
danus fruit; and portions of the pine apple,
emitting their luscious odour ; are all, in turn,
employed for chaplets ; as well as many wild
flowers, amongst which none are more highly
valued, or bloom so bright, as the hauti, or china-
rose. {Hibiscus Rosa Sinensis.)

The very young stipe of the cocoa-nut palm
affords the females one of the most delicate and
beautiful ornaments they possess : when peeled
into long strips and dried, it is thin, transpa-
rent, pure white, and glossy, and when worn as
rosettes in the hair, bears a close similitude
to white satin ribbon. Bonnets are seldom
worn but on holidays. They have been intro-
duced by the example, or tuition, of the mission-
ary^ladies, and are manufactured either from the
pia, or arrow-root plant, or from the sugar-cane.
Of Jhe former herb, the floweS* stalk is the part

VOL. l. I

114 TAPA, OR SARI^ CLQTH :

put to this use; the epidermis and pith beiug
sep^tedv by scraping, froia the fibrous layer,
when the latter is bleached and split into strips
of convenient size for making cinnet. It is a
light and ornamental material, but is not
very durable. The stalk or midrib of the leaf
is the part of the sugar-cane applied to the
same purpose, and is prepared in a similar man-
ner. The dried leaves of the Pandanus, or the
long culms of a grass, named nanimu, fastened
together in long and slender bundles, are the
materials chiefly used in manufacturing the hats
worn by the men.

Tapa, or cloth prepared from the bark of
trees, is still very generally made and worn at
this island, notwithstanding the increasing use
of European manufactures. Its preparation is
exclusively the work of the women ; the men
assisting no further than to obtain the crude
materials. The barks employed for the purpose
are those of the banian, paper-mulberry, and
bread-fruit tree. They are usually collected from
branches, not exceeding four inches in circum-
ference. The liher^ or inner bark, (which is the
only part used,) is separated by the rapid and
simple process of bending forcibly a strip of bark
so as to rupture the rind, when the liber is
drawn through it as a 'sword from its scabbard.

ITS MANUPACTURE AND QUALITIES. 115

Several pieces of this bark, macerated and placed
together, forming a mass about two feet long and
one broad, is then placed upon an elastic plank
supported at each extremity, and is beaten with
square wooden mallets until it acquires a pro-
per extent and tenuity. It is surprising to ob-
serve how small a piece of bark will, by the ex-
tension and agglutination of its fibres, produce a
very large sheet of thin, but strong and perfect
tapa.

A solitary female, or two or three of the same
family, will engage in this labour; but when
the work is of a public nature, or the owner
has a large circle of friends, fifteen or twenty
females may be seen kneeling on each side
the cloth-board, beating with their mallets in
regular time, and often to a native tune ; but
always with stunning effect.

Well prepared tapa is tough, and flexible, and
in texture is somewhat intermediate to paper and
calico. It is pleasant to wear on the person,
and may be washed, with care ; but is badly
calculated to withstand continued moisture, or
any force applied to it while wet. A very ge-
neral and valued kind of this cloth is bleached
to a snowy whiteness, and has its surface crossed
with the impressions of the grooves in the cloth
mallet ; bearing some Tesemblance to the warp

116

INDIGENOUS DYES.

and woof of woven cloth. A second variety is
stained dark-brown with the bark of the casu-
arina, or with that of the tw’ fui, or candle-nut
tree. The cloth prepared from banian bark
has naturally a light-brown colour, approaching
to a nankin. The more ornamental tapas are
stained bright-yellow with turmeric-root, ta-
manu-fruit, or, (as is most usual,) with the
roots of the Indian-mulberry. ('Morinda citri-
folia.J Upon this yellow ground are often im-
pressed, in brilliant pink, the figures of ferns,
flowers, lichens, or sea-weeds, tastefully ar-
ranged. The dye used for this latter purpose is
obtained by adding an infusion of the leaves of
the tou, ( Cordia sebestma,-) to the milky fluid con-
tained in the small fruit of the mati ; (Ficus pro-
lixa ;) and since both these ingredients are co-
lourless, the beautiful red fluid obtained by
their combination offers a phenomenon in ve-
getable chemistry not easily to be explained.
The mode of employing this dye is pleasing
from its simplicity ; a recent example of the
plant to be represented is immersed in the co-
loured liquid and impressed upon the cloth,
where it leaves its figure correctly delineated.
Blue, though a favourite colour with these is-
landers, does not obtain in their tapas : there
are, nevertheless, several indigenous vegetables

CBIME OF TATOOING PUNISHED. 1J7

to which they attribute the power of commu-
nicating this stain to cloth, the principal of them
being the berries of a bush named avaro, the
fruit of Melastoma malabathrica, and the juice
of the moutitain-plantain stalk. As the na-
tives employ no mordants, they find it difficult
to avail themselves of many of the vegetable
dyes they possess.

The ancient practice of tatooing the skin is
gradually declining amongst the Society Is-
landers generally. Tlie missionaries have been
much opposed to the custom, and among the
laws framed for these islands was one which
made tatooing criminal ; but this has been since
repealed, or continues in force only in the is-
lands of Huahine, Raiatea, and Tahaa. When
viewed in connexion with the habits of the
natives, tatooing is not, certainly, so innocent
a display of savage finery as most Europeans
imagine it to be ; nevertheless, we felt much
regret, not unmingled with indignation, when
we beheld, in the house of the royal chief of
Raiatea, a native woman, of naturally agree-
able features, disfigured by an extensive patch of
charcoal imbedded in her cheek — a punish-
ment inflicted upon her by the judges for
having slightly tatooed herself. While we were
regarding this j spectacle, a second female

118

OPERATION OF TATOOISG :

showed US her hand, which afforded a similar
instance of judicial severity: we could only
cling to the hope that British missionaries had
not given their sanction to such barbarities.

The older natives of both sexes are very
handsomely and profusely tatooed from the
waist to the toes ; the back of the hand and
fingers are similarly adorned; but the face is
either untouched, or marked with only a few
punctures. But few of the natives excel in the
art of tatooing. Those who are deformed with
hump-backs bear the greatest share of repu-
tation amongst their countrymen ; probably from
the circumstance of their devoting themselves
more exclusively to this less laborious employ-
ment.

While at this island, I gratified a wish to ob-
serve the process and effects of the tatoo by
ha\’ing a figure thus impressed upon myself.
The artist I engaged was a Tahitian ; and
from the numerous patterns displayed on his
person we selected a circular figure, named
pote ; the spot 1 preferred devoting to the im-
pression was the upper arm. The operation
commenced by bending the elastic rib of a
cocoa-nut leaf into a circular form, and smear-
ing its edge with a black fluid composed of the
lamp black of burned candle-nuts diluted to

ITS NATURE AND EFFECTS. 119

the consistence of printers’ ink. This placed on
the skin marked the outer circle; to execute
which by the eye alone would have proved a
difficult task ; the remainder of the design,
however, was completed without any similar
guide. The tatooing instrument, (a thin plate
of boar’s tusk, about half an inch in breadth,
sharply toothed at its margin, and fixed, at an
angle, to the extremity of a slender handle), was
then imbued with the black fluid, and made to
penetrate the skin by striking short and quick
strokes on its handle with a second and heavier
piece of wood, of conical form ; the artist de-
sisting after every few taps, to wipe away the
ink and oozing blood, that he might observe
better the effect produced and the line to fol-
low. In less than an hour the design was com-
pleted. The pain produced by the operation
was rather annopng than severe. It was only
felt during the application of the toothed instru-
ment, when the sensation was of a dull pricking
nature, hard to endure when long protracted
and felt much more sensitively in some parts of
the skin than in others. The bleeding from
the punctures was trifling at first ; but as the
work proceeded, and the stimulus determined the
blood more freely to the surface, each application
of the instrument was attended with a greater

120

NATIVE POOD.

flow. The arm continued inflamed, and a red
serum oozed from the punctures for several
hours ; but on the following day the part was
merely tender, and the redness of the skin had
given place to a bruised appearance, (from ex-
travasated blood,) extending to the elbow ; (an
effect of course not pei’ceptible in the dark skin
of the native ;) while the effused serum gave the
tatooed figure a varnished appearance. In four
days the arm was perfectly well ; and the scarf
skin peeling off, left the tatooed marks beneath
of a bright-blue colour and slightly elevated.

The operation of tatooing is not always fol-
lowed by these mild results : in some robust
Europeans, whose curiosity has induced them to
submit to the process, I have witnessed very
severe effects ensue ; the inflamed skin passing
into a state of suppuration ; though it is curious
to notice how far the latter effect, and even ul-
ceration will extend, without the integrity of
the tatooed figure being materially impaired.

Bread-fruit, mountain -plantains, bananas,
cocoa-nuts, and South Sea chesnuts, {Inocarpm
edulis,) spontaneously produced on the soil, form
the daily food of these islanders. Sweet po-
tatoes, taro-roots, and yams, are less generally
used, in proportion to the labour requisite for
their cultivation. Hogs and domestic fowls.

MODES OF COOKING. 1 21

though numerous, are rarely consumed by their
owners, who prefer reserving them for traffic
with foreign shipping. Fish is much valued;
but as the larger and better kinds are rare
on the coast and troublesome to obtain, the
natives commonly substitute, as an addition to
their vegetable diet, the small fishes, crabs, and
shell-fish, they daily procure on the reefs. They
eat the soft parts of the emehdma, ( Velella mu-
tica,) when the ocean throws that mollusc
within their reach ; and the large sea-urchin,
Eckinis cidaris, they esteem a good food,
vast quantities of its shells and spines, piled on
different parts of the sea shore, denoting where
the people have enjoyed a feast of this kind.
They cook in the ancient mode. When a large
bulk of food is to be dressed, a deep excavation
in the ground is lined with stones and filled
with ignited fuel ; the pit being sufficiently
hefited, the embers are removed, and the stones
swept clean, and covered with leaves, on which
the provisions are laid ; the whole is then co-
vered over with leaves, heated stones and earth.
An entire hog, of any required size, its abdo-
men filled with leaves and heated stones, is thus
thoroughly and quickly cooked. Its skin is not
chafiged in colour, the animal juices are well
retained, and the flavour (.f the meat is excel-

122 POE, OR VEGETABLE PASTES.

lent. The term baking is not strictly descrip-
tive of this process, which is one intermediate
to baking and cooking by steam. In preparing
a family meal, the provisions are cooked in a
more summary manner by roasting them over
a surface of stones and ignited fuel, placed in a
shallow circular excavation in the earth, and
resembling a small lime-kiln.

The vegetable paste, or poe, so peculiar to the
diet of Polynesian nations, is here prepared either
from the bread-fruit or mountain-plantain ;
the cooked fruit being put into a trough, and
beaten with a stone pestle to the state of a uni-
form and plastic pulp. The jooe fei, or mountain-
plantain poe, is the pride of the natives, and is
almost peculiar to this island and Tahiti. From
the arrow-root, or pia, combined with the pulp
of young cocoa-nuts, they prepare small com-
pact puddings, of rich but agreeable taste.
They also prepare some good jellies from the
same flour, mingled with bananas or other na-
tive fruits, and cooked in bamboos.

At the height of the bread-fruit season, the
superfluous ■ supply of this valuable fruit is
buried, in bulk, in large pits ; where, covered
over by the earth, it undergoes a pure acetic
fermentation, and becomes converted into a
doughy substance of yellow colour and sour

FERMENTED BREAD-FRUIT.

123

taste. This food is eaten by the natives when
recent bread-fruit is scarce. It is now named
teoo ; but was formerly called mahi. Bananas,
when abundant, are also preserved in the form
of pe&e. This is done by divesting the fruit of
their rind, splitting them longitudinally, and
partially dr)dng them in the sun ; they are then
placed together in a solid mass, enveloped in
cocoa-nut leaves, and bound closely round with
cord, so as to form a package in the shape of a
double cone and about a foot and a half in
length. In this state the fruit retains much
of its natural appearance and tastes like pre-
served figs.

Teoo and pee're, as well as mape, or South-Sea
chesnuts, remain unchanged during long sea
voyages; and are, consequently, valuable pro-
visions for vessels trading amongst these islands
and manned with native crews. With their
animal food the Raiateans employ sea-water as
a substitute for salt ; each morsel of flesh being
dipped in a cocoa-nut shell of that fluid placed
by their side at the meal. As a condiment
to the bread-fruit they use mitidro, or grated
cocoa-nut kernels, sprinkled with salt water
and carefully fermented. It possesses a rich
and ’sharp taste, which may be compared to

W IMPORTATION OF ARDENT SPIRITS.

that of cheese. The latter European food, how-
ever, is compared by the natives to their fer-
mented bread-fruit, and named by them teoo
papa, or white man’s teoo.

The pure element from the mountain stream,
or the fluid contained in the young cocoa-nut,
is the more usual beverage of these islanders ;
though many of them will indulge to excess in
the ardent spirits which they obtain by barter
from foreign vessels— a traffic much to be de-
precated, and one in which it is to be hoped no
master of a ship would engage, unless com-
pelled by the sternest necessity.* They procure,
also, from the neighbouring island of Borabora
a large quantity of a colourless liquor distilled
from the bread-fruit. This spirit is sufficiently

I feel reluctant to attach blame to the shipping of
the United States of America, lest it should be construed
into the pettiness of national prejudice; but it would, on
the other hand, be unjust to conceal the fact, that the
temperate ships,? so numerously sent forth from Ame-
rican ports, are actually the principal purveyors of ardent
spirits to the natives of these islands. Their crews,
(themselves conscientiously abstaining from spirits,) are
usually provided with a large quantity of rum, for the sole
purpose of conducting a lucrative traffic with the Poly-
nesians ; while the latter are but too eager to make sacri-
fices to obtain this inviting but pernicious luxury.

SYSTEMATIC INTOXICATION. 125

strong, and bears some resemblance to whisky.
The natives name it ava, * after the intoxicating
drink they formerly prepared from the roots of
the Piper methisticum, the use of which is now
obsolete, and the plant itself almost extinct on
these islands.

The systematic manner in which the na-
tives intoxicate themselves is not the least
curious feature in their character. They will
refrain long from spirits, or very abruptly re-
linquish their use, but when inclined to in-
dulge, nothing short of the most complete ine-
briety will satisfy them. Many amongst them
consider that a moderate use of ardent spirits is
tantalizing and disagreeable, and will often
refuse to partake of any, unless they can obtain
enough to produce the “ happiest” effects.
During our present visit to Raiatea the vice of
intoxication was not so prevalent as we found
it at a subsequent period ; yet, on every fresh
importation of liquor from Borabora, it was
common to see the more debauched islanders
parading the settlement in a state of riotous
intoxication, linked arm-in-arm for mutual

* A second, and more figurative name, occasionally
applied to this liquor, is pape pepe, or the water that
flogs.

J26 TOBACCO SMOKING.

support, and with bottles of spirits slung round
their bodies and cocoa-nut shells in their hands,
occasionally pausing to drink, then renewing
their route, yelling like demons, until, incapable
of further advance, they expended their last
gleam of reason in seeking the nearest shed for
a swinish repose.

The labours of the missionaries are in no way
rendered so nugatory as by the abuse of spirits
amongst the natives ; while it is equally evi-
dent, that unless effective, and above all perma-
nent, measures are not adopted to check this
increasing evil, the extermination of the abori-
ginal tribes will be as rapid as inevitable.

The practice of smoking tobacco is common
to both sexes, and commenced at a very early
age ; but is not carried to excess. An entire
and solitary pipe they never expend ; but as the
short wooden pipe, or papuhi, is passed round a
party, each individual takes a few whiffs, retain-
ing the smoke in his mouth, and emitting it
through his nostrils, with evident tokens of
luxuriating in its highest flavour.

Procuring their mountain-plantains is the
greatest labour in which these people engage.
They have for this purpose to travel many miles
over an upland and rugged country, bearing on
their return, burdens of considerable weight.

FEI TUMOURS.

127

Those who are most assiduous in this duty, ac-
quire on their shoulders large, elastic, and in-
sensible swellings, produced by the pressure of the
pole on which they convey the fruit. Such tu-
mours have an unsightly appearance, but appear
to be simply modifications of the natural parts,
answering the purpose of callosities, and similar
structures of necessity, to enable the shoulder
the better to bear the pressure to which it is sub-
jected. The natives do not complain of any in-
convenience from their presence, but rather
regard them with pride, as being tokens of in-
dustry ; those who do not possess them they
call “ idle men.”

The implements they most usually employ to
take fish are barbed spears, (some of which re-
semble the wasters used to strike salmon in the
lakes of Scotland,) and hook and line. The
spear is chiefly used at night ; when the torches,
borne to attract the fish, illuminate the entire
line of coast and present a very imposing spec-
tacle. When fishing with hook and line in deep
water, one extremity of the canoe is provided
with a projecting plume of feathers — a ruse
which would appear to indicate, that predaceous
fish direct their attention to the air, as well as
to the water, when in search of food ; and that,

128

METHODS OF PISHING.

upon observing oceanic birds assembled over
the smaller marine animals, there they will also
resort to partake in the spoil. The fishing fines,
as well as some large nets and seines, more
rarely employed, are manufactured from twine
prepared from the bark of trees, as the bread-
fruit, mati, purau, or romaha ; ( Urtica ar gen-
tea ;) the fibres of the inner bark being “ laid
up ” by rolling them between the hand and the
thigh. Notwithstanding the simplicity of the
materials and mode of manufacture, the fine
thus made is exceedingly strong and neat.

The primitive fish-hooks, still in use, are com-
posed of the iridescent mother-of-pearl, barbed
with bone. The nacrous lustre of . the shell,
with the additional attraction of a bunch of bris-
tles attached to it, is eminently successful as
a lure for deep-sea fish, and when appended to
a stout metal hook is much valued by European
sailors.

The small fish of the reefs are captured in the
following manner. A large quantity of leaves,
reeds, and fibrous bark, being fastened to a
cord, as a long fringe, the fishing party convey
this substitute for a net to a distance from the
land by wading over the reef, and return draw-
ing it after them in the manner of a seine.

EMPLOYMENTS OP THE NATIVES. 129

Upon reaching the verge of the beach, the ap-
paratus is brought to a circular form and the
enclosed fish secured. This plan is often
adopted to obtain bait, preparatory to fishing
with hook and line. A public fishing day occa-
sionally occurs ; when the entire population
assemble, and the head fisherman of the island
(who by virtue of his office holds certain privi-
leges) directs the drawing of a large net. The
fish thus obtained is divided among the natives at
large ; the head fisherman being entitled to levy
a contribution in kind from each of his country-
men, in return for his services.

The exclusive employments of the men are
(Tccting and repairing tlndr dwellings, making
(!anoes, and cultivating the soil. They use in
these labours noin* but European implements
— the clumsy tools of their ancestors, having
been long disused, now rank with the antiqui-
ties of the island, and can only be obtained
when they are occasionally dug out of the soil.
The women occupy themselves in the manufac-
ture of cloth, cinnet, and mats. They work at
their needle with much skill ; and should their
stock of thread be exhausted, the strong fibres of
the plantain stalk, capable of being split to any
degred of fineness, afford them a convenient

VOL. I. K

130 SUPERIOR INDUSTRY OF THE FEMALES.

substitute. The preparation of cocoa-nut oil
and arrow-root are labours common to both
sexes, though most commonly performed by the
women, who are, generally speaking, much more
industrious than the men.

STAPLE COMMODITIES,

131

CHAPTER V.

Commerce — Navy — Spiritual state of the natives — Great
Morai of Opoa — Progress of Education amongst the
people — Tamatoa II. — Tamatoa Vahine — The Queen
Dowager, Mahaina — Defensive state of the Island — The
late war with Borahora — Tara, Chief of Tubuai — His
wife Butoe — Her courage in the field — Reliques of
ancient songs and dances — Musical taste of the natives
— Primitive dances — Peculiarities of the Tahitian lan-
guage — Its written form — Examples — Eccentric names
of persons — Comparative dearth of population — Its
causes considered — Half-castes — Deplorably diseased
state of the natives — Fe /e, or Elephantiasis — Other na-
tive diseases — Their causes and effects — Parturition
and management of infants — The Raiateans “ conta-
gionists’’ — Native remedies — Albinos, or Pujmre.

The commerce of the island of Raiatea is as
yet but trifling. Small vessels from South
America, and New South Wales, occasionally
calling here, afford the natives a ready market
for their staple commodities, cocoa-nut oil and
arrow-root. Between thirty and forty tons of
the latter have been exported in one year ; yet
the demand for it continues to be much greater
than the supply. Attempts have been made to
grow tobacco, and to manufacture ships’ cordage

K 2

132

MISSIONARY RESIDENT.

from Hibiscus bark, for the Sydney market ;
and to prepare bf^ehe de mer, for that of China ;
but although the island is capable of affording
all these, and many additional exports, opposing
cireumstances have caused the early abandon-
ment of every effort to establish a permanent
commerce.

Since the Raiateans have been instructed in
ship building they have possessed seven vessels,
schooners and sloops. One of these, of 80 tons
burden, was armed with six cannon during the
late war with Borabora, and succeeded in cap-
turing the enemy’s armed vessel of nearly the
same size.

Raiatea has usually one resident missionary.
At the period of our visit a long interval had
elapsed between the departure of Mr. Williams,
who had formerly held that post, and the arrival
of Mr. Loxton, who accompanied us from Eng-
land as his successor. Native teachers had, in
the mean time, attended to the pastoral duties ;
and church service was regularly performed,
though not numerously attendi'd. On the Sab-
bath succeeding our arrival the church con-
tained a congregation of about fifty natives.
They were all attired in some descrijitiou of
European cloth ; and this appeared to be a
sine qtia non of their attendance ; since many

RELIGIOUS RITES,

133

who possessed only a costume of native mate-
rial, assigned this as a sufficient reason for their
absence. Two native teachers officiated — they
read, loud and distinct, but with a peculiar
abrupt termination of the sentences, and an in-
cessant change in the intonation of the voice,
resembling dialogue. Grace before meals is a
usual practice with the better class of people.
The ceremonies of baptism and marriage are
performed by both the missionaries and native
teachers. The burial of the dead is unattended
by any religious form, nor is consecrated ground
considered essential : the corpse, enveloped in
cloth, is placed in a rude coffin hewn from the
trunk of a tree, and interred in the nearest con-
venient s])ot. The sepulchre, or fare no te tia
papuu, of Tamatoa I., the late monarch of Raia-
tea, is a small wooden building, thatched, and
closed with a barricadoed door. It is erected im-
mediately behind the house he last occupied, and
which is now the residence of the present royal
chief ; but it is generally believed that the royal
remains were removed from this spot to some
remote part of the island, at the time when a
threatened invasion of the Borabora people led to
an apprehension that they might fall into the
hanc|s of the enemy and be treated with indignity.

Among the few mementos of idolatry which

134

GREAT MORAI OF OPOA.

yet exist on this island, is the ruin of the great
morai at Opoa ; situated on the S. E. side of the
land, and distant about eight miles from the
settlement at XJtumaoro. It is an object .well
calculated to interest the European visiter, both
from the scenic beauties of the spot it occupies
and the high veneration in which the edifice
itself was formerly held by the natives of all the
Society Islands. But little more than the foun-
dation now remains. It is placed at a short
distance from the sea side ; is imbedded in a
dense and gloomy foliage ; and has the apj)ear-
ance of a long wall, six feet high and several
yards in breadth, running parallel to the coast.
It is built of rough blocks of coral, piled together
without any cement, and many of them are of
a size which sufficiently attests the persevering
labour of the idolatrous architects. Human
bones, as skulls, &c., the remains of human
sacrifices, or of warriors slain in battle, are pro-
fusely scattered amidst the ruins, and, as well as
the coral, bear traces of great antiquity. In
the vicinity, are several erect stone pedestals,
that formerly supported idols or offerings, and
some gnarled and aged trees, which the native
who attended us to the spot identified with
idolatrous rites more absurd and disgusting than
any that have been hitherto recorded of this
people.

PROGRESS OF NATIONAL EDUCATION. 135

The grove that surrounds the morai is the
most beautiful I have seen in the Polynesian
Islands. It is principally composed of full-
grown and elegant tamanu trees placed, with
some uniformity, at a moderate distance from
each other — a refreshing coolness reigns be-
neath their shade ; and an imperfect light,
struggling through their dense and deep-green
foliage, imparts a sombre air well suited to the
character of the place. The canopy these trees
spread over the land checks the growth of
brushwood ; hence the level and clear soil be-
neath affords an agreeable walk, and adds much
to the artificial appearance of the grove. The
islanders fully appreciate the beauties of this
spot ; and content with leaving the morai and
timber deities “ to the bats and to the moles,”
will seldom allow the axe to touch its stately
trees.

The Raiateans have made the same advance
in education as the Tahitians : almost the entire
population can read and write. European writ-
ing apparatus being scarce, they employ some
ingenious substitutes derived from indigenous
materials. For slate-pencils, they use the cal-
careous spines of the sea-urchin, or a red ochre
obtained from the hills ; and in the place of pen
and paper, they write with a pointed instru-

13(1

TAMATOA II.

ment upon a slip of plantain-leaf, when the cha-
racters present a bruised appearance, conspicu-
ous in hue and texture above the general
polished and light-green surface of the leaf.
Proposals of marriage are now conveyed by let-
ter, and the reply of the lady is made in the
same delicate manner.

The present royal chief of this island, Tama-
toa II., is the son of the late monarch of that
name ; the maternal uncle of Aimata, the queen
of Tahiti ; and brother to Ariipaea, the queen of
Huahine. He is between thirty and forty years
of age, tall, slender, and well proportioned ; his
features are prominent and regular, and his
complexion much lighter than is usual with
these natives. He is sensual and indolent, and
appears to possess but little influence in the po-
Utical affairs of his nation. His available wealth,
derived from landed possessions or oth(‘r indi-
genous sources, is, under the existing form of
government, scarce greater tlian that of many of
his subjects ; but some emoluments of modern
origin, such as a share in the fines levied upon
offenders, and port-dues received from foreign
shipping, attach an uncertain, liut increased re-
venue to his office. An intelligent native
attends upon his person as “ prime minister," or

THE ISLAND QUEENS.

137

speaker, whose strict and ancient office is to
express the royal sentiments on state occasions.

The queen-consort, Tainatoa Vahine, is a vul-
gar-looking woman, of short stature and active
habits. She has a great partiality to ardent
spirits, and when opportunity offers will keep
herself in a state of inebriety for several days
together : we have known her, when on a visit
to an American ship where no stronger drink
could lie procured than a weak and ill-flavoured
wine, dispatch an extraordinary quantity of this
liquor, until she obtained its intoxicating effect ;
although to a less persevering Bacchante the
attempt would have appeared a mere waste of
time. By this female Tamatoa has no family ;
but by a former and repudiated wife he has
several fine children.

In an ordinary native hut, at a little distance
from the “ palace,” resides the queen-dowager
of llaiatea, the widow of Tamatoa I. She was
originally a woman of low rank, and since the
death of her husband has reverted to her former
station ; while her marriage name, Tamatoa
Vahine, has been exchanged for Mahama, which
signifies gaping, that having been the last act
of Tamatoa previous to his decease.

Tlie facilities offered for procuring European
weapons have altogether exploded the use of the

138

WAR WITH BORABORA.

ancient- spears and clubs by the modern Raia-
teans. They now possess a large stock of
muskets and ammunition, as well as a few can-
non ; though these last, at the time of our visit,
were lying on the sea shore in a very neglected
state.

For some years past this nation has been free
from foreign or domestic'wars. The last conflict
in which it was engaged was with the Borabora
people, a wild, restless, and warlike race, who
have ever been the natural enemies of the
Raiateans. The subject of dispute was the pos-
session of the island of Tahaa, which Raiatea
claimed by right of conquest : Tamatoa I.
having defeated in war Fanuapeho, the late
royal chief of that island, and made him pri-
soner ; but ultimately restored to him his terri-
tory, conditionally. Upon the death of Fenua-
peho, (who was drowned at sea,) an attempt,
made by his successor, to unite the kingdom of
Tahaa to that of Borabora induced the Raia-
teans to assert their claim to the former land.
This was resisted by the Borabora natives, as
well as by a party at Tahaa, and after many
fruitless endeavours to terminate the dispute by
negotiation, a decisive battle was fought on the
island of Tahaa, in April, 1831. Many were
slain on both sides, but the victory remained

TRIUMPH OF THE BAIATEANS.

139

with the army of Raiatea. The survivors of the
Boraborians retreated to their canoes, and did
not deem themselves secure until they had at-
tained their mountain fastnesses. The Raia-
teans did not, however, pursue their advantage
beyond their own territory ; but, returning to
their island, celebrated the victory. by de-
bauch with ardent spirits — a spirit, by the way,
very different from that with which they had set
out on the expedition ; when the interesting
spectacle was presented of the king and his band
of warriors prostrate on the beach, offering up
their prayers for the success of their arms.
Previous to this time their missionary had
(piitted the island ; had he been present, it is
probable that a mode of rejoicing so humiliating
to the native character would not have been
adopted.

'lara, the royal chief of Tubuai, was taken
prisoner by Tamatoa at the battle of Tahaa,
and altliough at liberty to depart, was residing
at Raiatea with his wife and child at the period
of our visit. He is a remarkably fine young
man, with a mild and noble expression of coun-
tenance, and bears on his person the scars of
many wounds. He had warred against Raiatea
at the instigation of his wife, Butoe, a daughter
of ’the late king of Tahaa, and who (as is usual

140

SINGING.

with the Society Island wives,) accompanied her
husband to the battle and fought with great
courage. Her weapon on the occasion was a
short blunderbuss, presented to her by Captain
P. Dillon, and which occupied a conspicuous
station in her residence at Raiatea.

Although their public i)erformance is sup-
pressed, many of the ancient songs and dances
of this nation are yet extant, and there are but
few of the rising generation who are not tolerably
well versed in both those recreations of their
ancestors. The primitive mode of singing re-
sembles that of the natives of Bengal, and is
equally discordant to a musical ear from its mo-
notonous and nasal character. Many of the
Raiateans, however, who have learned to sing
in the European manner, do so with gr('at
sweetness, power, and compass of voice, and
remember or imitate foreign tunes with great
facility. They are invariably good timcists —
an excellence prominently displayed in their
dances, as well as in their music. The young
females possess the most agreeable voices ; and
singing, as they usually do, first and second, or
with many voices combined, the effect is exceed-
ingly melodious and delightful, espe(jially when
it emanates from a party seated beneath the
foliage embosoming the huts, on a moonlight

THE HOE, OR REED.

141

night — the place and time usually selected for
this amusement. Their songs are sometimes
simple native airs, to which they adapt extem-
porary words referring to some recent or passing
event ; at others, the lively songs sung by sea-
men when heaving at the capstan ; or, passing
“ from gay to grave from grave to gay by turns,”
they occasionally sing a psalm in a very sweet
and plaintive style.

The men sing but seldom, and usually in the
discordant aboriginal manner. Their favourite
music is tin; hoe, or reed, played with the mouth
and fingers, like our flageolet, and producing a
tone similar to the drone of the bagpipe. The
upper extremity, or embouchure, of this instru-
ment is split on one side, and encircled by a
ring of tow or other soft material, by raising or
depressing wlii(fli the aperture is ehjarged or
diminished, with the effect of producing a graver
or more acute tone at the option of the per-
former. The hoe is usually played in concert,
or as an accompaniment to the native dances ;
the reeds being tuned with extreme accuracy
previous to each performance. The musicians
sit in a circle, huddled closely together, with
their heads depressed to their knees, and thus
play native tunes with much precision and
great regard to time. A few of the more ex-
quisite musicians embellish their performance

142

TAHITIAN LANGUAGE,

with a flourish of the fingers, rivalling in grace
that of Paganini’s bow.

Jews.’-harps, of European make, are the great
favourites, and almost constant companions of
both sexes, and are employed with much skill.
European music and musical instruments are
generally admired ; of the former, they give the
preference to the slow and plaintive, rather than
to the more noisy and brilliant pieces.

The performers in the native dances display
much agility ; but their attitudes are opposed to
our ideas of the “ poetry of motion,” nor do
they always convey the most delicate allusions :
in short, the desire of the missionaries and
steady natives to suppress this amusement is
equally in accordance with good taste and good
morals.

The Tahitian language, (which may be re-
garded as a t5q)e of most of the Polynesian dia-
lects,) is conunon both to the Georgian and So-
ciety Islands. It has an abundance of vowels
and a paucity of consonants (especially those of
the harsher sounds) which render it peculiarly
'soft and harmonious. Its alphabet comprises but
sixteen letters ; c, g, j, k, I, q, s, a:, g, and z,
being deficient. P and b, t and d, and u and v,
are commutable letters. Although the letter I
is not allowed to form a part of the alphabet, it
is, nevertheless, very often employed in conver-

AND ITS PECULIARITIES.

143

sation as a substitute for r, — a custom which
might be considered a modern innovation de-
rived from the Sandwich Islands, (wh^re the
same practice so generally obtains,) did we not
find traces of its existence at the Society group
recorded by our earlier navigators : thus Cook,
guided in his orthography by the pronunciation
of the natives, gives Ufitea, and Bo/abo^a, as
the names of islands now written loretea and
Borabora ; as well as Ta/oo, to the harbour of
Eimeo, now written Tareu ; and many similar
instances of the I being used as a substitute for
the r (probably euphonic^ gratid) are now autii-
ble in the spoken language. No Tahitian word,
unless it be a compound, has more than three
syllables ; nor has any syllable more than three
letters. There are no silent letters or double
consonants, and each syllable and word invari-
ably ends with a vowel. The definite articles o,
and te, are sometimes used as a sign of the no-
minative case, with the same effect as the
French la or le. We have examples of this in the
misnomers Otaheite and Otahaa, applied, by
Cook, to islands which the natives named to
their foreign visiters as the Tahiti, and the
Tahaa. But this is a nicety in the dialect very
optionally used, and one which is not suffici-
enfly general to be regarded as a rule. The ad-
jective follows the substantive, as fare rahi, a

144 OBSOLETE AND DOUBTFUL WORDS.

house large. The pronouns follow the verb,
substantive, or adjective, to which they belong ;
as, haere o van, go I ; paari o oa, wise you ; vUa
maitai tana, canoe good his. The vocabulary is
simple but expressive, and sufficiently copious.
Many words, however, formerly employed, and
inserted in the vocabularies furnished by our
early voyagers, are now obsolete ; caprice, or
some peculiar prejudices, well known to have
existed in the ancient time, having caused tlieir
place to be supplied by other words of similar
signification.

A Sandwich Island origin may, with probabi-
lity, be attributed to some words now in use
amongst the Society Islanders; but we must
not, at the same time, lose sight of the fact, that
many of the ancient, and now obsolete Tahi-
tian words accord with those in present use at
the Sandwich group, and may occasionally be
revived.

Pal, or hai, is a word very^ commonly^ used by
this people ; though its meaning is not well un-
derstood by foreigners : it would apjjear to as-
sert })ositively, or give additional strength to an
expression, as the vulgar “ sure,” of some
English provincial dialects. Thus, the saluta-
tion iaorana, is often answered by iaorana pai ;
or if a native is asked the name of an orange.

natives’ defective ENGLISH. l45

he will reply anani ; but should the question be
repeated, the answer is usually anani pai, an
orange, certainly, surely, without doubt. In
conversation, the affirmative is frequently ex-
pressed by elevating the eye-brows, and a ne-
gative by partially protruding the tongue ; hence,
it is requisite to keep an eye on the native ad-
dressed, or a stranger, unaccustomed to this
mode of expression, may imagine his question
is received with sullen silence, when, in fact, it
has been already thus noticed and answered.

The English language is so little adapted to
the articidation or taste of these islanders that
but few of them make any proficiency in its ac-
quirement. Some English w’ords, abounding in
hard consonants, they cannot pronounce ; and
others they disfigure by the abundant interpo-
lation of vowels. They have no difficulty in
commanding the literal combination th, or sibi-
lants ; but as these sounds do not occur in their
own tongue they commonly evade them. To
the initial -S’ they always prefix the vowel e, as
c-small, c-speak ; a practice common, also, to
the natives of the Indian continent, and one
which facilitates the pronunciation of the sibi-
lant to those unaccustomed to its employment.

The British missionaries, resident at these
islands, have made it their business to acquire a

VOL. 1.

L

146

TAHITIAN PRONUNCIATION.

perfect knowledge of the Tahitian tongue, and
to reduce it to a written, and, as far as possible,
to a grammatical form ; and in this they have
succeeded' to an extent highly creditable to their
talents and assiduity. They have adopted the
Roman character in writing the language, and
have determined that the consonants retain the
same "Sounds as in English, while of the vowels,
a has always the sound of a in bath ; e that of a
in bane ; i the sound of e in me ; o retaining the
sound usually given to it in English ; while u
has the sound of eu, or u in rude. The broad
sound of i, which occurs so prominently in this
dialect, is represented by the diphthongs ai or ei ;
but the following few examples will, probably,
give the clearest idea of the orthography and or-
thoepy of native words, as at present established.
Vaa . (Canoe) pronounced as Vah-ah.

Mahana

(Sun) ....

. Mah-hah-nah.

Fare .

(House) ....

. Fah-ray.

Medua

(Parent) ....

. Ma-doo-ah.

Pepe .

(Butterfly) . . .

. Pay-pay.

Iti .

(SmaU) ....

. E-te.

Hi .

(to climb) . . .

. Pe-e.

Tia .

(to stand) . . .

. Te-ah.

Teo teo

(Proud) ....

. Tay-o tay-o.

Poto .

(Short) ....

. Po-to.

Uru .

(Breadfruit) . . .

. Oo-roo.

Tuabu

(Humpback) . .

Too ah-boo.

ECCENTRIC NAMES OF PERSONS. 14/

Maitai (Good) . . . . . Mi-ti.

Papai (to write) .... Pah-pi.

The days of the week are now chiefly distin-
guished by numerals attached to, the wqrd ma-
hana or day, as, mahana atahi, Monday, or first
day ; mahana apiti, Tuesday, or second day, &c.
Though some of them are also named from the
duties allotted to them, as, tahati, Sunday, or the
Sabbath ; mahana bare, Wednesday, or prayer-
day ; mahana maa, Saturday, or food- day. (From
its being devoted to procuring and cooking food
for the succeeding Sabbath.)

Proper names of persons among this people
are often very eccentric. They are sometimes
derived from any unusual incident which has
occurred to the individual or his relatives, but
would appear to be more frequently the off-
spring of a whimsical fancy ; thuswe find included
in their names. Ran Pia, the leaf of the arrow-
root plant, Manu, a bird, Pahi, a ship, or large
canoe ; Tamaidi Haute, a troublesome youth ;
Mai, a disease ; Fara, the screw pine ; &c. The
wife, in accordance with the ancient custom,
assumes her husband’s name, with the title
Vahine, or wife, suffixed.

The population of uncivihzed countries is
seldom great, compared to the extent of territory
it occupies ; since many causes, either natural,

L 2

148

LIMITED POPULATION.

or (dependent upon the habits or prejudices of
the people, are always acting to retain it within
the narrow limits adapted to its means of sup-
port. The Polynesian Islands generally, and
the Georgian and Society groups in particular,
offer no exceptions to this rule ; on the contrary,
the European visiter is at once impressed with
the disparity that exists between the few and
scattered inhabitants and the great extent of
fertile soil, capable, under judicious manage-
ment, of affording subsistence for a very dense
mass of people. Amongst the causes tending to
limit or diminish the population of the Society
Islands, we find that the natives are not prolific :
the females have seldom large families, and
sterility is not unusual amongst them — the
practice of foeticide, substituted for the ancient
and more glaring vice of infanticide, though
scarcely differing from it even in name, while
in effect it often involves the life both of parent
and offspring — and a high rate of mortality
amongst children, chiefly arising from an in-
judicious custom of feeding young infants with
crude vegetable food which encourages the
dysenteric diseases of which the majority perish.
As additional causes, we may assign the severe
epidemic disorders which occasionally attack,
and almost depopulate, the smaller islands ; the

DISEASES OF THE NATIVES. ]49

total absence of efficient medicines and phy-
sicians; and the increasing abuse of ardent
spirits.

It is a curious fact in the statistics of the
Society Islands, that half-castes (the offspring
of Europeans and natives) are exceedingly few.
From the few instances that came under our
notice, however, it would appear that the
Tahitian peculiarities of complexion and features
merge rapidly into the European ; usually the
second, but at most the third, remove from the
native stock assuming the fairness of complexion
and symmetry Of features characteristic of the
Caucasian variety of mankind.

We must either no longer regard the natives
of Raiatea as an uncivilized people, or admit
that unsophisticated man is as liable to disease
as the most refined of his species ; for I know
of no one s})ot, except within the precincts o^
an hospital, where I have seen so much severe
disease, accumulated amongst comparatively few
individuals, as upon this small island. A damp
and low soil, ill-constructed dwellings, and a
diet almost solely vegetable, produce or foster
amongst these islanders a scrofulous constitution
which is strongly marked in their maladies.
Ague and other fevers, as well as dysentery,
are .very prevalent amongst the residents in the

J50

BUCNEMIA OR FE FE,

villages ; especially at the seasons when bright
and sultry weather, succeeding the rains,
produces an exhalation of malaria from the sur-
rounding swamps.

Bucnemia, or Elephantiasis, called by the
natives fe fe, though not a fatal, is a trouble-
some and deforming distemper to which the
Society Islanders are particularly subject.
Europeans, also, resident in these islands, are
equally liable to its attacks ; but I have never
observed it to be present in any individual under
the age of puberty. The extremities, which are
the parts of the person chiefly affected by the
disease, assume under its influence a rugged
and hardened texture, and a colossal, shapeless
appearance, not unaptly compared to the limbs
of the quadruped whence one name for the
complaint is derived. Its slow but certain pro-
gress is attended with little suffering, beyond
that occasioned by the deformity, or by oc-
casional attacks of inflammation of the skin and
subjacent parts, accompanied by paroxysms of
fever closely resembling ague ; and under these
circumstances life and the disease advance to-
gether, since no native or foreign remedy has
been found competent to its cure. The pro-
gress of the disease is not always proportionate
to the time that has elapsed since its develope-

AND ITS PROBABLE ORIGIN.

151

merit, but is rather influenced by the constitution
of the individual attacked: in some instances
it makes a very rapid advance in a short time,
while in others, after many years’ duration, the
deformity is still very inconsiderable.

It is a malady which has a wide range of
chiefly intertropical country. Its causes are
obscure, and those commonly assigned are
vague and insufiicient. Diet, and general habits
of a nation, must be set apart from the question ;
for we find that people according in these
respects do not alike participate in the dis-
ease ; whilst others, differing essentially on such
points, are all equally liable to Bucnemic attacks.
Peculiarity of soil offers a fairer field for enquiry.
Many facts tend to prove that Elephantiasis
chiefly obtains on lands too abundantly watered,
(on all such soils, indeed, as are best adapted
for the cultivation of rice,) and where the in-
habitants reside in the low, jungly, and moist
districts. I have already stated that at Pit-
cairn’s Island, which is destitute of fresh water
almost to an inconvenient degree, this disease is
unknown. At St. Christina, Marquesa Islands,
where rivers are few and well confined to their
channels, and the soil generally dry and stony,
we did not observe a single instance of fe fe
anaongst the natives, although in food and habits

152

PULMONARY CONSUMPTION.

they differ in no material manner from the
Society Islanders. The Sandwich group, which
offers a third Polynesian nation exempt from this
complaint, has on many of its islands large
streams and plenty of taro patches, but the
effects of moisture are not evident beyond the
banks of the rivers or the roots of the taro ;
while the general face of the land, and the
principal residence of the people, is a sandy and
arid soil, often sterile from a defective supply of
water.

The only fact I noticed that militated against
this mode of accounting for the origin of
Elephantiasis, was at the small island ofMaurua,
of the Society group. On that spot, although
water is as scarce as at Pitcairn’s Island, we wit-
nessed several cases of Je fe amongst the in-
habitants. So constant, however, is the inter-
change of population between Maurua and other
islands of the group, that it was difficult to
ascertain whether the people thus afflicted were
natives of the island, and much more if they had
resided only on this soil.

Pulmonary consumption is not common
amongst the Society Islanders; though a suf-
ficient number of cases came under our observa-
tion to prove that the serenity of their climate
did not altogether exempt them from this af-

PERSONAL DEFORMITIES. — THE TUABU. 153

fliction. The children are liable to an affection
of the air passag'es resembling the croup of
Europe, It is said to occur epidemically, and
to prove very fatal. I saw but one case of this
kind, which occurred in a fine native infant ; it
was severe, but yielded to the ordinary English
remedies.

The more robust people are very subject to
attacks of phlegmonous erysipelas, which oc-
casion indolent abscesses of immense size. Scro-
fulous disease of the joints, and of the
mesenteric and other glands, is of frequent
occurrence. Many of the men had complete
paralysis of ' the lower extremities without any
evident cause, their health being in other
respects perfect. Large wens, chiefly on the
head and face, are common with the elderly
natives, and are often numerous on one in-
dividual.

Personal deformities, though unfi’equent, are
not absent. We noticed some individuals with
bowed legs ; and others with club-feet ; but the
most common deformity is an angular distortion
of the spine, produced by scrofulous disease, and
called tualfu. The history the natives give of
this last disease is interesting, inasmuch as it
accords perfectly with facts concerning it
which are well known to European pathologists.

154

SYPHILIS. — THE TONA.

They say, that when £rst attacked, the patient
is very ill and has much pain and fever ; that
should deformity ensue he recovers, but in de-
fault of this he dies. The tuition of experience
has here brought the native observer to the same
conclusion as the European surgeon, who is
aware £hat the distortion attends upon a jiatural
cure, and that the diseased portion of the spine
being removed by ulceration, the upper and
under healthy surfaces of the bony column ap-
proximate and “ knit together,” obliteratiftg,
not only the disease, but the space it had oc-
cupied — thus completing a cure .at the expense
of stature and symmetry of form — while
should this process not occur, the sufferer dies
exhausted by the long continuance and extension
of the malady.

Syphilis, in all its forms, is now firmly esta-
blished among this people, and, from fiie few
and feeble measures adopted to arrest its pro-
gress, may be considered as yearly increasing.
It is not true that this complaint has lost any of
its virulence by exportation to Polynesia, whe-
ther in the persons of Europeans or natives.

A very general and itching eruption, common
both to children and 'adults, produces, in its
aggravated form, numerous ulcers on the skin.
It is called by the natives tona, (a name which

DREAD OF CONTAGION.

155

" V

they also apply to syphilis,) but it is an ancient
disease, and was observed amongst the Tahi-
tians, by Captain Wallis, long before the intro-
duction of lues by the French discovery-ships.

The sight of these islanders is usually very
perfect. Diseases of the eye, however* occur,
in the forms of strumous and purulent opthal-
mia, cataract, psoropthalmia, and pterigium^
with some few instances of blindness. Parturi-
tion, with the native women, is usually easy,
and attended with but little anxiety or prepara-
tion. The bush and the sea are now no longer
resorted to on this occasion ; some portion of
the hut being usually prepared as a puerperal
chamber. We found that accidents in child-
birth wete of much more frequent occurrence
than the natural habits of the people would lead
us to anticipate. Infants, when sufficiently old,
are carried astride on the nurses’ hip, in the
same manner as with the natives of the Indian
continent. It is a very usual practice for mothers
to relinquish the charge of their offspring to
female friends, who perform towards them the
duties of medua amu, or foster parent.

The Society Islanders are stanch ultra-con-
tagionists : they consider that all diseases are
I infectious, and should they so far overcome their
|prgudice as to attend upon a sick relative, they

156 DEPLORABLE STATE OF THE SICK.

will on no Recount use domestic utensils in
common with him. Upon the same principle,
also, they find an exotic origin for nearly all
their disorders, leaving us in doubt, (if their
traditions of imputed diseases are to be believed,)
how the aborigines terminated their existence,
unless by violent death or extreme old age.

. The apathy they display when in ill health,
and the little aid they can command, cause
many of their milder maladies to assume a very
aggravated form. I have often, upon entering a
hut, found it occupied by several natives in
such a deplorable state of disease, so ut-
terly destitute of all necessary comforts, and
at the same time so negligent of themselves,
that I could only exdaim in the words of
Terence, —

Ipsa si cupiat saliis

Servare prorsus non potuit hanc faniiliani.”’^

The few domestic remedies they employ are
entirely derived from indigenous herbs, and are
either drastic purgatives and emetics, or are
inert, and merely tend to relieve by force of
imagination. One medicine we observed them
employ was composed of grated sandal wood

* “ If health herself tlcsired to aid this family, she eould
not.”

NATIVE REMEDIES.

167

and a kind of fern, steeped in cocoa-nut milk.
It was used for a painful affection of the stomach,
part of it being swallowed and the rest rubbed
on the skin over the affected part. The more
usual practice is to put a heated stone into an
infusion of recent herbs, and \tith the liquid,
thus rendered tepid, to bathe the person of the
patient — a kind of endermic system it is to be
presumed. To obtain relief from pain in the
abdomen or back, the patient lies on his face,
while a friend, ascending upon him, treads up
and down his back with a gentle and equal pace.
To stop the bleeding from a cut, they beat the
wound with a smooth and heavy instrument as
pertinaciously as if they were aware that a
bruised blood-vessel will not bleed. For hydro-
cele they perform a rough, but often successful
operation ; and some of them maintain a repu-
tation amongst their countrymen by their skill
in the use of the lancet. Several of the Raia-
tea men had musket-balls quietly encysted
beneath the skin in different parts of their per-
sons, and, feeling proud of such warrior honours,
would not allow them to be extracted.

An albino variety occasionally (though very
rarely) occurs amongst the Polynesian natives.
Two examples of this departure from the normal
colour of the race came under our notice at

158

POLYNESIAN ALBINOS.

Tahiti. The one was a female child, about five
years of age, and residing with her parents, who
were both dark complexioned natives. Her
skin was fairer than that of ordinary Europeans,
had a pink tinge, was perfectly smooth and
healthy, and, although exposed to the sun, was
not at all bronzed. Her hair was long, silky,
and flaxen ; her eyes blue,* and intolerant of
light. She appeared active, and was usually in
the open air taking the recreations adapted to
her age. The second instance we saw was a
native man about thirty years of age. His com-
plexion was fair, and had a reddish hue, similar
to that which obtains in Europeans with red
hair. His h^ir was flaxen, and his eyes grey.
His features were distorted by intolerance of
light, and he employed a stick to guide his steps.
The natives name these albinos pupure. They
entertain no prejudice against them, nor do they
express any dislike to their appearance.

* The pink eyes, so usual with European albinos, do
not appear to prevail in the albinos of the dark-skinned
races of man. A similar difference exists also in the
albino varieties of animals. The albino of the mouse,
rabbit, and some other species of quadrupeds, have red
eyes, while the same variety in the cat and some monkeys
has the eye blue or dusky.

SINGULAR VARIATIONS OF WINDS. 169

CHAPTER VI.

Extension of the N. W. monsoon to eastern Polynesia —
Climate of Raiatea — Meteoric phenomenon during a
thunder-storm at Utumaoro — Natural productions of
the island — Terns — Frigate-birds — Tropic-birds —
Sharks — Scorpoena antennata — Turtle — Violation of an
ancient royal privilege regarding them— Water-snakes
— Lizards — Crustacea — Secretive habits of a species of
Hyas — Calappatuberculata — Hermit-crabs — Prawns —
Land-crabs — Sea-urchins — Description of a kind
possessing an offensive power — Star-fish — Turbo
setosus — Water-clam — B^che-de-mer, or sea-slug—
The flower-animal, Diazona — Sea-anemonies — Their
peculiar changes of colour — Insects — Their increase
on these Islands — The squeaking-cockroach — Spectre-
mantis — Vegetation — Botanical knowledge of the
natives — Geological observations.

Although, from their geographical situation,
the Society Islands are under the full influence
of the S. E. pereunial winds, both N. W. and
S. W. winds occasionally prevail, especially
during the months of February and March, when
the natives calculate upon their arrival to make
voyages to islands bearing S. E. of their own.
There is reason to believe that the N. W. mon-
soon of the eastern hemisphere, south of the
equator, extends at times to the more eastern of

160

METEORIC PHENOMENON.

the Polynesian islands, enabling' ships to sail in
a direction opposed to the ordinary trade winds
without the delay of attaining an extra-tropical
latitude for this purpose. Captain T. Stavers,
of the Tuscan, possesses on his charts a remark-
able track made by that ship from the equator
in 174° W. long, to the Society Islands, by an
uninterrupted south easterly course of 2,500
miles, the winds holding chiefly from N. E. and
N. W., with occasional gales from the westward.
The American ship, Charles Carroll, which we
met in the port of Raiatea, had also made a
similar direct course to that island from the
coast of New Guinea. Tlie N. W. winds usually
bring to these shores very foul weather, attended
by powerful electrical effects. During a terrific
storm, with rain and thunder, which occurred
to us at night in the harbour at Raiatea, a dis-
charge of electric fluid took place immediately
over the spot where we lay at anchor. The
crushing sound it produced wa.s so awful that all
on board were impressed with the belief that
the ship was going to pieces ; while, at the same
time with the report, a large ignited body, scat-
tering corruscations on every side, fell into the
sea within a few feet of the bows of the vessel.

The quadrupeds of Raiatea are the same as
those at Tahiti. Among the cetaceans that fre-

BIRDS.

161

quent the coast we find the Sperm Whale, Tahord
of the natives, which sometimes approaches the
land so closely as to be killed by whale-ships
within a short distance of the reef. Shoals of
Dolphin (Delphinus) also enter the reef-aper-
tures, and frolic in the deeper waters of the har-
bour.

Some of the land birds which inhabit the more
interior and elevated woods have a varied and
gaudy plumage; while others, with a more
sombre garment, possess a melodious voice, not
unlike that of our thrush or blackbird ; but
neither kind is sufficiently numerous to repay
the exertions of the sportsman or ornithologist.

Aquatic birds are more abundant, and include
in their number wild ducks ; (which frequent
the lakes, both inland and on the coast ;) gulls ;
boobies with slate-coloured plumage and red
legs ; the sooty-petrel ; Q^rocellaria fuligimsa ; )
the pied-kingfisher ; ( alcedo rudis ;) a species
of Totonus, the size of a snipe, the plumage
ash-colour, the throat and abdomen speckled
vdth gray ; and terns or noddies, (sterna
stolida,) about the size of a dove, the plumage
sooty-black, with silver-gray capistrum ; the
last-named birds are very familiar with man, and
are often tamed by the natives, who permit them

VOL. 1. M

162

TROPIC BIRDS.

to run abouti^ their huts and feed them upon

%

small fish.

The Blue-Heron (Ardea cerulea,) and a more
common species of the same family, with white
plumage, are occasionally seen on the barrier reef,
standing in their peculiar fixed and statue-like
attitude, watching their finny prey, or taking
short flights to other and more promising fishing
grounds. Frigate-birds, taha, breed on the cliffs
of the coast and fish in the surrounding waters;
when attracted by any favourite food they as-
semble in vast numbers, hovering over the sea
with an incessant clamour, resembling the noise
of a rope-winch. The natives capture this bird
by scaling the cliffs in which it breeds or roosts.
Its plumage (especially the long and sable fea-
thers of the tail) was formerly employed in con-
structing the feather ornaments of the chiefs
among the natives ; most of the black feathers
in the Polynesian attire contained in our mu-
seums being the plumage of this species.

The Tropic bird, {Phaeton cetherius,) with long
white feathers in its tail, and the more elegant
species, (P. phcenicurm,) with scarlet feathers in
the same part, are both found on this coast.
Their habits, however, are thoroughly oceanic,
and they only frequent the land to incubate.
They fly high in the air, uttering a peculiar

DOMESTIC FOWL.

163

whistling cry, whence they derive |heir nautical
name of “boatswain,” and which is heard at
night as well as in the day. The tetherius is
the more common species ; but both kinds are
rare compared to most other oceanic birds, and
it is unusual to observe more than three or four
examples at one time. The Society Islanders
formerly attached a very high value to the tail
feathers of these birds; especially to the red
rectrices of the phanicurus. To obtain them,
they were in the habit of visiting the small and
uninhabited islands of the group at the season
when the phaeton incubates, and when it per-
mits the most familiar approach. The birds
were then taken off their nests, and their tail
feathers drawn ; after which they were set at
liberty to prepare a future supply. The islets
most prolific in this source of wealth, as Tubai
and others, were at one time monopolised as
preserves by the royal chiefs of Tahiti, and con-
sidered as the hereditary, or entailed, lands of
their family.

The domestic fowl, moa, still continues to be
the most useful bird in these islands. They rove
unrestrained about the villages, and require no
care from their owners. They are principally
reared to sell to shipping, and their eggs are col-
lected for the same purpose. Those hens which

M 2

164

FISHES.

have a circular blue caruncle near the ear are
called by the natives moa tiiri, or fowls with the
ear-ornament, and are more valued than others,
being considered better breeders. At most of
these islands domestic fowls can be obtained at
so cheap a rate that whale-ships take to sea, for
live stock, as many of them as they can conve-
niently carry. The only food they require on
board a ship is the scraped kernel of the cocoa-
nut ; and on this they thrive and improve ra-
pidly, while mortality from disease is obviated
by occasionally adding a little raw flesh to their
diet. Tlie natives adopt a strange mode of
killing a fowl by pithing, or piercing the spinal
marrow near the head; the instrument they
employ for the purpose being a quill taken from
the wing of the same bird. Turkeys, Moscovy
ducks, and pigeons, have been introduced at
Raiatea, but have not as yet multiplied suffi-
ciently to be profitable to the residents.

Amongst the fish that freiiuent the coast, w(;
noticed sharks, sword-fish, occasional shoals of
albacore and bonita, porcupine-fish, ( Diodon,'^
anglers, (Lophius,) trunk-fish, (Ostr acton, in-
cluding the species cornutm, named by the na-
tives monioa teria, from its ear-like spinous ap-
pendages,) cavalloes, parrot-fish, (Scarm,) and
several species of file-fish, ( Balistes,) and doc-

SHARKS. — GIGANTIC RAY.

165

tors, ( ChcetodonSy) many of the latter being of
large size and excellent as food. .*Sucking-fish,
C Remora australis,) upwards of a foot in length
are not uncommonly seen swimming in the sea
outside the reefs. Gar fish infest the harbours
in large shoals, often darting through the air in
a horizontal direction, and with a force which
has caused their long and slender jaws to pene-
trate the planks of a boat.

The sharks seen here are chiefly of the brown
species, ( Squalus c archarias,) which frequents the
ocean generally. They display all the voracity
of their kind, but seldom exceed the length of
eight feet. The islanders take every opportu-
nity of capturing^them, and employ their flesh
as food ; the liver, which is the part of the fish
they most esteem, they suspend in the sun upon
the branch of a tree, until it is sufficiently dried
and drained of oil, when it is enveloped in leaves
and reserved as a delicacy. A gigantic species
of ray also obtains on this coast. Its skin is
dense, and covered with tubercles, or plates, of
stony hardness ; its tail, which is more than five
feet in length and covered wit h spines, was used
as a file by the natives before their acquaintance
with European implements.

Myriads of small fish, of brilliant colours and
often very peculiar in form, frequent the shallow

166

SC0RPJ5NA ANTENNATA.

waters on the reefs, and offer a boundless held
for the exertions of ichthyologists : one of those
the most conspicuous in appearance and habits
is the Scorpcena antennata of Bloch. It bears a
close resemblance to S. volitans. Its average
length is about eight inches; its prevailing co-
lour brick-red with vertical black bands, the
membrane of the pectoral fins being marked
with circular black spots ; the head is large and
obtuse, and covered with spines and cirri ; . one
cirrus, resembling an antenna, being placed
above each orbit. On account of the number of
long and unconnected spinous rays its fins pos-
sess, this Scorpaena, when in the water, has a
very curious appearance, and rather resembles a
large echinus than a fish. It swims in a lei-
surely manner, and is so insensible to danger
that it may be lifted out of the sea by the hand :
when alarmed, however, the creature darts with
rapidity to take refuge in the crevices of the
coral rocks. The natives call this fish tataraihou.
Eels of large size inhabit the reefs, and others of
more delicate flavour, as well as some fine mul-
let, are found in the rivers.

Though turtle do not breed on these shores,
they are often found floating on the surround-
ing waters and frequently enter the harbours.
While we remained at Raiatea, a turtle of large

LIZAPDS.

167

size was taken on the barrier-reef where it
had been thrown by the surf. The islanders who
made the capture bore the prize to their homes
and devoured it, without any regard to an an-
cient law that entitles the royal chief of the
island to the possession of all the turtle taken on
his territory. It was rumoured that the offenders
would be deprived of their lands for this breach
of privilege; but, I believe, the time is now
passed for such offences to be very rigorously
visited.

No serpents are found on the Society Islands,
though water-snakes are not uncommonly seen
on their coasts. Small lizards (Lacerta agilis,
rmr.) abound on the wooded lands ; and a larger
species, handsomely marked with yellow, fre-
quents the houses, where they dwell in the
thatch, climb the walls actively, and subsist
upon insects, which they discern and secure with
surprising rapidity. Moo is the name the natives
apply to all the lizard tribe.

The Crustacea, or crab kind, are numerous,
though there are none of large size. The largest
example that came under our notice was the
Scyllarus antarcticus, which is about the size of
a small lobster, and of a yellow-gray colour
marked with irregular purple blotches. A re-
markable crab that frequents the shallowest

168

CURIOUS PERSONATE CRAB.

waters of the shore-reef/ at Raiatea, has not been
described, but is probably a species of Hyas.
The most . interesting feature in its economy is
an attempt it makes at disguise by investing its
body with a covering of decayed vegetable sub-
stances, mud, and coral-sand, the better to ensnare
its prey. The example we obtained measured
six inches in the circumference of the shell, and
was of a dull brown colour ; the entire surface of
the body and legs is covered with rigid and
incurved bristles, calculated to retain the extra-
neous substances used for disguise, while short
and well-concealed forceps- claws, and ophthalmic
peduncles curving upward, to raise the eyes above
the pile of materials on the back, are also well
in accordance with the secretive habits of this
animal. Although active when captured, its move-
ments in the water were sluggish and cautious -
my attention, indeed, was drawn to the creature
only by the strange phenomenon of what ap-
peared to be a lump of rubbish moving slowly
from one spot to another.* The Calappa tuber-

^ The ruse employed by this crab is not without its pa-
rallel amongst Crustacea and insects. The cral), Macropo^
dia phalangium, envelopes itself in fucus- leaves as a dis-
guise to ensnare its prey; and the larva of the fly"l)ug,
Redavius personatus, covers itself with dust, for the same
purpose.

HERMIT-CRAB.

169

culata is a crab rather common on this coast.
It is of a dull-drab or fawn-colour ; the shell
(carapace) is heart-shaped, tuberculated, and
has a very projecting margin. When alarmed,
the creature retracts its legs beneath the shelter
of its broad carapace, places its broad and flat
forceps-claws across the head as a further pro-
tection, and remains perfectly motionless, how-
ever much annoyed. One of our crew, who
found an example of this crab on the beach, put
it into his pocket as a “ curious stone,” and was
not a little surprised, after a lapse of time, to
find the apparently inanimate body making its
escape.

Many kinds of hermit-crab inhabit the reef-
waters. The largest of these is a species of
Pagurus, four inches long, which chiefly occu-
pies the vaeant shells of the maava, (Turbo se-
tosus,) each shell being so well selected by its
parasitic occupant that the retracted claws of
the latter most accurately close its aperture.
The anterior half of this Pagurus is densely crus-
taceous, and of a red colour marked with yellow ;
the body is soft, membranous, of a buff colour,
and protected by five or six horny plates on its
upper surface, each plate having a row of hairs
on its posterior margin. The antennce are short,
slender, and black ; the ophthalmic peduncles (or

170

OPAPE, OR CRAY-FISH.

eye-stalks) sie placed parallel to each other, and
project horizontally forwards ; the forceps-claws
are obtuse and of equal size, beset with tuber-
cles, and furnished with parallel rows of yellow-
brown hairs. The two ^ first pairs of legs are
longer than the forceps-claws apd composed of
annular plates. They are compressed laterally
to adapt them to lie closely together when re-
tracted within the maava shell. The third and
fourth pairs of legs are diminutive, or rudi-
mental, and only adapted to give the animal a
firm hold upon the pillar of the shell it occu-
pies. They are provided with oval plates of a
brown colour, and which are rough in the direc-
tion most favourable to resist the abstraction of
the crab from its borrowed tenement. The tail,
also, is, for the same purpose, sup])lied with three
claw-like appendages with similar rough and
oval plates attached to two of them. This
hermit-crab affects the deeper waters of the
reefs, and is almost entirely aquatic in its
habits ; though, it is capable of supporting
a long existence on land, where it crawls ac-
tively, drawing about its cumbrous shell like a
snail.

In the rivers there are vast numbers of cray-
fish, called opape by the natives. They are rather
larger than the prawn of England, and are of a

LANB-CRABS.

171

dull-olive colour, changed to red by boiling:
their antennae and forceps-claws are remarkably
long, and the latter are unequal in length, the
right claw being usually i^he longest. They are
eaten by Europeans as well as by the natives,
but, like most fresh water Crustacea, they have
little flavour. The moist and black soil of the
coast is perforated in every direction by cir-
cular holes inhabited by a small land-crab, ( Ge-
ladmus Duperreyi,) of a uniform black colour,
excepting the left forceps-claws, which are
transparent and red. The right forceps-claw is
very diminutive, while the left is of a size com-
paratively gigantic. This crab is very difficult
to capture, as it seldom wanders far from its
burrow and takes shelter upon the slightest
alarm. Some land-crabs of large size inhabit
the inland plains, where they burrow in the
earth and do much injury to cultivation, espe-
cially to the sugar-cane plantations. They have
a transparent, or watery, appearance, and a dull-
red, approaching to a violet, colour ; they are
sometimes eaten by the natives.

Amongst the many kinds of echini, or sea-
urchins, that infest the reefs, are some remark-
able for possessing spines which are both of-
fensive and defensive weapons. On one occa-
sion, when searching for a fish in the crevice of

172

MALIGNANT SEA-URCHIN.

a coral rock. I felt a severe pain in my hand,
and upon withdrawing it, found my fingers co-
^rered with slender spines, evidently those of an
echinus, and of a gray colour elegantly banded
with black. They projected from my fingers
dike l^ell-planted arrows from a target, and their
points, beingbarbed, could not be removed, but re-
mained for some weeks imbedded, as black specks,
in the skin. Its concealed situation did not per-
mit me to examine this particular echinus ; but
I subsequently noticed some others of a similar
nature fixed to the hollows in the rocks ; they
were equal in size to the E. cidaris, and the
body was similarly depressed ; but the spines
were long, slender, and more vertically arranged,
and their points finely serrated. Their colour
Avas jet-black. These animals adhered so firmly
to the rocks that they could not be detached
without difficulty. When closely approached
they gaA^e an irritable shrug to their spines,
similar to that displayed by the porcupine or
hedge-hog. It was difficult to say if the hand
had been brought in })erfect contact with this
echinus before it was wounded by its weapons ;
in some experiments, I approached the spines
with so much caution that had they been the
finest-pointed needles in a fixed state no injury
could have been received from them ; yet their

SHELL-FISH.

173

points wdl'e always struck into my hand, rapidly
and severely. The natives are well aware of
the offensive character of these animals and
caution the stranger against handling them.
That elegant star-fish,’ OpAt'am echinata, Earn,
is very abundant in the shallow waters around
the coast ; and some species of Spatangus are
also common in the same habitat.

At none of the Society Islands are shell-fish
so abundant as on the coast of Raiatea. Those
most commonly noticed, lying on the reefs, in-
clude the genera cyproia, tenebra, pmrpura
mitra, cerithium, conus, unio, murex, pterocera,
cardium, my a, chama, and turbo : of the last
named family the species setosus, maava of the
natives, is by far the most plentiful A stony
opereulum, known separately by the name of
“ umbilicus veneris,” which closes the en-
trance to this shell, is flattened and of a brown
colour on its inner surface, (or that attached to
the fish,) and convex, white, and resembling
glazed porcelain, on its outer. It is small, when
compared to the external aperture of the shell,
but is well adapted to close the narrower part of
the channel into which it is drawn by the re-
tracting fish. It is rare to find an example of
turbo setosus free from a dense coating of ex-
traneous matters ; but when clean, its surface

174

WATBR-CLAM.

is prettily marked with black and vfhite, and

when the outer calcareous layer is removed, the

exposed nacre has a pure, brilliant, and highly
ornamental appearance. The most remarkable
shell on this coast is the* Spondylus varius, or
water-clam. It is a large bivalve, indebted for
its trivial name to a collection of fluid contained
within partitioned chambers in the interior of
its valves, and which, when the shell is shaken,
is visible through the semi-transparent layer of
nacre that forms the floor of the lower valve,
and gives a very audible splashing sound.
The upper valve is comparatively small and flat ;
the lower is thick and convex and while the
latter projects beyond the hinge, with a heel, or
umbo, the former is abruptly truncated at its
posterior extremity, which presents so com-
pletely the appearance of having been sawn off
to facilitate the opening of the valves as almost
invariably to lead persons to that opinion who
are unacquainted with the natural structure of
the shell. As in the Spondylus family generally,
the hinge of this species is formed by thick pro-
cesses of shell so firmly interlocked as to resist
the entire separation of the valves after all the
soft parts have been removed. The water-clam is
not common at Raiatea, and can only be ob-

BECHE-DE-MER OR SEA-SLUG. 175

tained from the natives, who are most expert at
diving for them in the deep water.

Two kinds of b6che de mer, trepang, or sea-
slug, CHolothuria tremula,) are abundant on the
reefs at Raiatea. Ond of them is uniformly
black ; the other is speckled brown-and-white,
and has small circular and perforated tubercles
on its back. The average length of each kind is
about six or eight inches, the breadth from
two to four. The body is thick in the centre
and tapers gradually at either extremity; is
convex and rugous above, flattened and covered
with short tubular papillae beneath. Their dense
fleshy texture, and naked and slimy surface,
justify the comparison that has been made be-
tween these moluscs and the land-slug. The
head is distinguished by a series of hard shelly
plates, encircling the orifice of the mouth, and
is surrounded by many long and elegantly-
branched tentacles, which are retractile, and
can either be concealed or spread out loose and
floating. In its habits the b6che de mer is
very indolent ; when handled, it contracts its
body in the longitudinal direction, and should
its tentacles be expanded they are instantly
concealed ; but no noise or agitation of the
surrounding water will excite these symptoms
of alprm, or cause any attempt to escape. They

176

HABITS OF THE SEA-SLUG.

usually lie exposed in the shallow waters; though
we have very often- seen them buried in beds
of coral-sand ; their plumy tentacles being alone
exposed, and floating in the water above, ap-
parently as a lure for prey. Some may also be
observed lying on the rocks, their bodies com-
pletely incrusted with coral-sand, which may
either have been accumulated by a previous
burrowing, or thus used as a disguise. It
would appear to be partly the instinct of the
animal to take its prey in ambush ; but what
that prey is, as well as the entire economy of
these moluscs, remains a perplexing mystery.
Their intestines invariably contain many hard
and solid masses of madreporic rock or tree-
coral, some of them more than an inch in
length, and all moulded, as pellets, to the caliber
of the intestinal canal. It is difficult to say how
these stony bodies have been obtained by the
trepang, though it is easy to conceive that they
may be rendered serviceable as nutriment by
the assimilation of the animal matter they
contain.

It is this animal which the Malays of the
Oriental Isles seek so diligently, for the supi)ly
of the China market, where it obtains a good
price when well preserved. It is employed by
the Chinese in the preparation of nutritious

THE FLOWER-ANIMAL, DIAZONA. 177

soups, in common with an esculent sea-weed,
sharks’ fins, edible birds’ nests, and other ma-
terials affording much jelly. The only part
of Polynesia in which bfiche de mer is em-
ployed for commercial purposes is the low
coral formation, Fenning’s Island, in the North
Pacific, where a settlement of Sandwich Is-
landers is formed for the express purpose of
collecting and preparing this commodity for
traffic with China.

A second species of Holothuria (closely re-
sembling Sipunculus) affects the same localities
as the above. Its average length is three feet ;
its body is cylindrical and usually distended by
muddy water ; its skin is rough with minute
spines and of a clouded-olive colour ; its mouth
is surrounded by tentacles and bony plates,
similiir to those of the bCche de mer. It lies
passive upon the coral shoals close to the land,
its body placed in a waved form, and often at-
tached by its posterior extremity to a rock.
The elegant flower-animal, Diazona, is found
on the barrier-reef, expanding its numerous
tentacles of pink-and-white hue as a disk of
great circumference placed at the summit of a
round and fleshy stem. When alarmed, it ra-
pidly folds its tentacles inwards, and, sinking
to the rock, contracts to a very diminutive size.

VOL. 1. N

178

INSECTS.

Some sea-ajiemotties, (Actinea Zoanthi, Cuv.)
are also beautifully displayed on the same reef^
which they cover as fields or mats of gi’eat ex-
tent. When expanded, they present a series
of squares vnth elevated margins, their interior
bright-green, their exterior of a fawn-colour.
Upon the slightest touch these polypi contract
suddenly ; and thus entire fields of them are, as
by the touch of a magic wand, instantly changed
from a brilliant green to a dull-brown colour,
which, as the animals recover from their alarm
and again expand, gives place to the original
verdant hue.

To judge from the records of early voyagers,
we should suppose that insects (although now
but few in number,) must have greatly increased
upon these islands within a comparatively re-
cent period, and, most probably, by the addition
of several exotic genera. Amongst those we
obtained were a few examples of lepidoptera, of
which the largest and most elegant is a species
of Venessa, with a spread of wing of about
three inches. Its colour is a rich purple, and
the under wings are ocellated. Its larva is
black, with yellow spines and head, and feeds
on a species of Commersonia. The most con-
spicuous moth is a Sphinx, or Hawk-moth,
closely resembling the S. convolvuli of Europe.

SQUEAKING COCKROACH.

179

The coleoptera, or beetle tribe, include species
of Cerambyx, Curculio, and Forfiaila. The he-
miptera are a species of Cimex, coloured black
and red, and common on the shrub Dodonaa
viscosa, and several kinds of cockroach, as
Blatta orientalis, B. giyantea, and one closely
resembling, if not identical with, B. Siamensis.
This last is named, by voyagers, “ the Society
Island cockroach but it is evidently exotic to
these islands, and obtains at most of the Poly-
nesian lands visited by shipping. It is as large
as B. gigantea ; is of a dull brown colour,
marked with gray ; and bears, on the upper
surface of the thorax, a figure which has a
rude resemblance to the head of a mastiff dog :
the female differs from the male in possessing
merely rudimental wings and elytne. The odour
this Blatta emits is less disagreeable and pow-
erful than that of B. gigantea ; but the princi-
pal respect in which the species differs from its
congeners is in a power it has of squeaking when
handled.

A Phasma, or spectre-insect, (allied to Man-
tis, J found in the woods, is of a green colour, and
four inches long ; its body slender, cylindrical,
and jointed, and the legs disproportionately
long and slender. It bears a close resemblance
to the tribe commonly known as the “ tree-

180

MOSQUITOES.

or twig-mantis." Grasshoppers infest the herb-
age in incredible numbers ; their chirfang song,
commenced towards evening, producing almost
a deafening effect. Some of them are small
and black, like our field-crickets ; others, in size
and colour resemble Locnsta viridissima : but
the majority do not differ in appearance from
the ordinary grasshopper (Gryllus verruci-
vorus) of the meadows of Europe. Of the
order neuroptera, we find here the genera Ile-
merohius, and Lihelhila ; of hymenoptera,
Tentredo, C^nips, Ichneumon, and many kinds
of ants, infesting the woods and dwellings. The
dipterous insects are Tipulce, myriads of do-
mestic flies, and mosquitoes, ( Cider SpJ of a
gray colour, and elegantly marked with black
spots and bars. The latter insects abound in
the jungle, and wage sanguinary war against
the man who invades their territories, though
they are seldom troublesome in the villages.
Amongst the apterous order are spiders, a small
kind of scorpion, and some centipedes. (Sculo-
pendra and JulnsJ

The botanist will be surprised to find how
few of the plants indigenous to these islands
are remarkable either for the beauty or odour
of their flowers, or for any sensible medicinal
\irtues. Tin; excessive fertility of the soil gives

VEGETATION.

181

a rank or over-luxurious character to its vege-
tation, and causes herbs to expand their ener-
gies in the development of foliage rather than
in the production of the active juices or highly-
coloured and aromatic blossoms, so peculiar to
the vegetation of more arid and, in other re-
spects, less favoured lands. To the same cause,
also, we may probably attribute the fact, that
many of the fruits spontaneously produced at
the Society Islands, as the bread-fruit, moun-
tain-plantain, wild banana, &c., are perfected
in a manner that usually attends the highest
cultivation, and do not produce fertile seeds :
this being well in accordance with a natural
rule which obtains throughout all classes of
organized beings ; namely, that the principal
vital functions are performed with an energy
and rapidity proportionate to the necessity ;
hardship being more favourable to their de-
velopment than luxury. Hence we find that
plants growing on the hot and sandy soils of the
Indian, African, and American continents have
their flowers, seeds and active juices, much
better perfected than those indigenous to the
super-nutritious islands of the Pacific.

Every plant, however trivial, growing on
these islands has its appropriate native name.
With the names of those growing within their

182

BOTANICAL KNOWLEDGE

commoti observation, all the islanders, even the
younger children, are intimately acquainted ;
but when my excursions have been extended to
the loftier mountains, find the rarer plants ob-
tained, I have occasionally found it difficult to
get them named by the residents in the villages ;
though, after some consultation, and passing
them fi'om one to another, each plant has been
at length recognised, and its proper name ap-
plied. * Much curiosity was excited amongst
the natives by my diligence in collecting plants.
Knowing, as they did, my profession, and all
their' own medicines being vegetables, it was
natural that they should imagine them intended
for medicinal uses : their ideas were much
more commercial ; and when ciuestioned touch-
ing their knowledge of the object 1 had in
view, they invariably expressed it as their opi-
nion that the dried specimc'ns were to be taken
to Beretani to furnish new patterns for the
printed calicos. No native can be entrusted
with the task of collecting botanical (‘xamples.
A flower of one species, the fruit of another, or

* The prevalence of this natural education amongst the
people is highly advantageous to botanical (-ollectors in
the Society Islands, since it enal>les them to identify
plants under all their alteivd forms dependcfit upon age
or local peculiarities

OF THE NATIVES.

183

a bunch of leaves from a third may be brought,
but never sufficient of a plant to express its na-
tural character.

All the Society Islands agree in possessing
the heterogeneous geological character common
to volcanic lands, (for that they came under the
latter denomination does not admit of a doubt.)
The cinder-island of Ascension, in the South
Atlantic, is not more truly volcanic in its struc-
ture than the lovely island of Raiatea; both
equally betray a Plutonic origin ; though in the
one Nature has done nothing, while in the other
she has worked wonders, to conceal the horrors
of volcanic effects under a veil of bountiful ve-
getation. It is true that extinct craters are less
percejitible at the Georgian and Society Is-
lands than at some other Polynesian groups ;
but no attempts have yet been made to ascend
the loftiest mountains, where such remains are
most likely to exist ; nor are we denied the hy-
pothesis, that lands may be produced by volcanic
agency without any igneous display from their
own surface. The mountain lake at Tahiti,
however, as well as some appearances (which I
shall have to describe) at the summit of a
mountain at Raiatea, are sufficient examples
of extinct craters to afford every advantage that
cfvn be derived from such evidence. Earth-

184 COMPOSITION OF THE SOIL.

quakes (those parental threatenings) have also
been experienced at Tahiti, at comparatively
recent periods.

The rocks of the coast, and bare cliffs of the
inland mountains, are composed of a dark vol-
canic stone ; (trap and basalt ;) while scoriae, or
tufa, clinkers, and lava, are profusely strewn
over both the lowlands and hills. The soil of
the plains and fertile declivities of the hills is
either a red argillaceous earth, or a black vege-
table mould, both of considerable depth. The
less fertile soil of the mountains is a light clay,
mingled with much rocky debris. Masses of
compact carbonate of lime are strewn over the
highest lands ; and some of the lower hills are
apparently composed entirely of this substance,
in a soft and friable state, and resembling a
very calcareous marl. The hills on the N. W.
coast of Raiatea produce a fossil which I have
noticed at none other of the Polynesian is-
lands. It is a bole, or argillaceous earth, of a
delicate cornelian-colour : compact, but friable,
breaking with a conchoidal fracture ; is very
adhesive to the tongue, and unctuous to the
touch, and marks with an orange stfvin. It
bears some resemblance to the bole found on
the island of Stalimene', (Lemnos,) and hence
named Terra Lemnia. It chiefly occurs in the

COMPOSITION OF THE SOIL.

185

form of debris, where the hills have been torn
by heavy rains ; but in some places it can be
traced as narrow and distinct veins, ramifying
with much regularity through a matrix of car-
bonate of lime.

18 (> BEHAVIOUR OF THE ISLANDERS.

CHAPTER VII.

Hospitable custom of the Raiateans — Departure — Pas-
sage to the Sandwicli Islands — Remarks on sailors^
fare and sailors’ tastes — Gale on the Equator — Histo-
rical notice of the Sandwich Group — General de-
scription of Oahu — Harbours and anchorages — Coral-
reefs — .Tides — Fort-hill and Diamond-hill, extinct
craters — Valleys — Their situation and scenery — De
scription of the I^iri at Anuanu — ^Vaterfall— Native
tradition concerning it — Town of Honoruru — Present
state of the native population — Manufactures — Re-
creations — Progress of Christianity — American Mis-
sionaries — Observance of ("liurch ordinances — iMourning
for the dead — Aboriginal mode of disposing of the dead —
Peculiarities of the Hawaiian dialect — Progress oi
education amongst the natives.

While we reiniiined atRaiatea uninterrujited
harmony existed betweim the natives and our
erew, and a desire for an interehangi; of kindly
feelings appeared to aetuate both ])arties. The
Raiateans, indeed, have a pleasing ('ustom
which we observed at no other Polynesian
island we visited : upon the arrival of a ship
every islander is anxious to obtain, from amongst
the officers or cr(‘w, a friend, ahoa, to whom,
during the stay' of the vessel in jiort, he brings

RELIC OF ANCIENT HOSPITALITY. 187

the general produce of the island, and a daily
supply of cooked bread-fruit and other provisions,
in the manner of presents ; but for which it is
tacitly understood, that the entertained will
either occasionally, or upon quitting the island,
make a suitable return with such European
commodities as his native host may most value
or require. A trifling kindness conferred upon
a grateful native will sometimes thus attach him
to his European visiter, and cause him to be un-
remitting in his attentions, without any demand
for remuneration, or apparently interested
motive. Children in arms are freijuently made
to assume the character of friends to foreign
visiters ; to myself, a little girl four or live years
old was deputed by her parents to perform this
hospitable duty ; tlu‘ abundant su])plies sent to
me b}" the father or mother being always borne
or accompanied l)y the child, in whose name
tliey were ])resented, and to whom all returns
were to be made. This is the relic of an
ancient custom ; and although we should de-
ceive ourselves if we regarded it at all times as
true hospitality, yet it imitates that virtue so
well as to lead us to hope that it will not soon
be abolished.

April 17 , 1834 , we got underway from our
anchorage at Utumaoro, the ship presenting a

188

DEPARTURE.

scene little inferior to that which Noah's ark
might have afforded. Pigs and poultry were
crowded into every spot capable of supporting
animal existence ; cocoa nuts, feis, and bananas,
hung in rich festoons from the stern and rig-
ging ; oranges, sweet potatoes, and pumpkins,
occupied nets stretched across the quarter deck ;
and, in addition to the more perishable prophy-
lactics against scorbutic troubles, a large supply
of lime-juice had not been omitted by our
provident Commander.

Passing through the lee reef-aperture, we
made sail to the N. W. ; nor was it without
regret that we left an island where we had passed
so many happy days and experienced so much
kindness from the inhabitants. On the succeed-
ing day no land w^as in sight, and our crew, now
strengthened by the addition of two Raiatea
islanders who had been engaged for the ap-
proaching cruise, had returned to the steady
routine of their sea duties.

April 21, as we passed between Caroline and
Stavers’ Islands the former land was seen dimly
in the distance, and many amphibious birds
came around the ship. On the same day an
event occurred which is worthy of mention, al-
though it may appear scarcely credible to persons^
unacquainted with the pecmliarities of sailors ;

CREW WISH FOR SALT PROVISIONS. 189

this was the receipt of a petition from our crew
to tiieir captain praying that they might be
allowed to return to the use of salt provisions,
and relinquish fresh meat, of which they were
now tired. Since leaving Pitcairn Island, a
period of little more than seven weeks, our ship's
company had lived entirely upon fresh pork, beef,
poultiy, vegetables, and fruits, the produce of
the ports at which we had touched ; and the
ample supplies we had taken to sea promised a
longer continuance of the same fare. A desire,
however, was thus early expressed by the crew
to return to their more stimulating diet; and
whatever hardships may be associated with the
idea of subsisting upon salt beef and pork, it
must be admitted that when those provisions are
of good (juality, seamen can maintain their
health and strength, and live more contentedly
upon them, than upon any two kinds of fresh
meat.*

* Most commanders of ships relate amusini^ anecdotes
of the caprice shown by their crew when opportunities
have ottered of indulginji; without restraint in some kind
of food which would be deemed luxurious if seasoned by
variety, as turtle, poultry, !ish, or any one kind of fresh
meat. The result has been invariably disgust after a
very limited use of tlie unvaried diet, and a return, with
pleasure, to the “ salt horse,’’ which no one is more ready

190

GALE ON THE EQUATOR.

On the 2nd of May. when we were but thirty-
three miles south of the Equator, in long. 151“
W., an unusually sultry day was succeeded
by a squall as sudden as violent. A few
moments before its approach a death-like still-
ness prevailed in the atmosphere, but little in
accordance with the threatening and lul^d
aspect of the sky. Presently the storm burst
upon us with tremdndous violence, pressing the
lee side of the vessel to the water, and giving
her a rapid and impetuous progress though but
little sail was set. Torrents of rain descended
at the same time, and through the intense dark-
ness of the night several l)alls of electric fire
were seen adhei’ing to the masts. Neither
thunder or lightning attended this t<nnj)est ; but
it was not until after the expiratioji of six hours
that it subsided, when the weather became de-
lightfully serene. Owing to the activity with
which sail was taken in, the ship sustained no
injury beyond the splitting of a fore top-sail ;
but a squall of this violence and duration was
considered a very unusual o(^currence in a part
of the globe so near the Equator, and which is
generally so tranquil sis to be justly named the

to abuse than an old sailor, but none more loath to desert
for any tbiiif; short of the variety a well-sirpplied luarkel
ean alone afford

REACH OAHU, SANDWICH ISLANDS. 191

“ true Pacific.” As was anticipated, it proved to
be the precursor of a change of the winds from
the S. E. to the N. E. trades. The barometer
had fallen during the two preceding days
from steady 30, to 29‘85 ; on the day succeeding
the squall it regained its ordinary intertropical
gWide of 30.

We crossed the Equator, and, entering the
North Pacific Ocean, continued our course to
the N. E. Calms, or light baffling winds, which,
on the evening of the 13th, suddenly took the
place of the strong trade* winds we had before
enjoyed, denoted that we were under the lee of
the island of Hawaii, Sandwich group, and which
was considered to be distant ninety miles to our
eastward. An assemblage of heavy clouds in
the latter direction aj)peared to indicate the
precise situation of this island, which, although
one of unrivalled height, is seldom visible from
the sea at any considerable distance, on account
of the veil of mist or clouds that commonly
conceals it.

On the l.'ith of April, the island of Oahu, of
the same group, was distinctly visible as an
elevated mountainous land, estimated at fifty
miles distant ; and on the following day we cast
anchor on its lee side, outside the barrier-reef
whieh protects the harbour of Honoruru. We

192

SANDWICH ARCHIPELAGO:

were received, on landing, with much polite
and hospitable attention by R. Charlton, Esq.
H. B. M.’s Consul for these islands ; as well as by
several respectable British and American re-
sidents, whose society rendered our stay in this
country both agreeable and instructive-

The archipelago known as the Sandwich
Islands lies chiefly between 1 9“ and 22“ N. lat,,
and 155” and 160" W. long. It is principally
composed of the eleven islands, Hawaii,
(Owhyhee, Cook) Maui, (Mowee,) Ranai, Morokai,
Tahaurawe, Oahu, (Woahoo,) Tauai, (Atooi,)
Nihau, Oreehoua, Morokini, and Taura. It was
the latest, and has hitherto proved to be the
most valuable, of the many discoveries made by
our countryman. Cook, by whom it was made
known to the world in 1778, and named in
honour of the Earl of Sandwich, then first lord
of the Admiralty. The group bears an ad-
ditional, though melancholy interest, as being
that at which our immortal navigator closed his
earthly career, in a conflict with the natives of
Hawaii, in 1779. Subsequent to the visits of
the ships Resolution and Discovery, commanded
by Captains Cook and Clarke, and a later visit
paid to Maui by the ill-fated La Perouse, the
Sandwich Isles remained unnoticed, (except by
a few merchant ships trading to the N. W. coast

ITS DISCOVERY AND IMPROVEMENT. 193

of America, or engaged in collecting sandal-
wood,) until Vancouver’s visits to Hawaii, in
1792 — 93, when Tamehameha, the royal chief,
formally ceded that island to Great Britain — a
cession which was afterwards repeated by his
son, the late king Riho-riho, with the addition
of all the other islands of the group of which
Tamehameha had become possessed, by con-
quest, subsequent to his treaty with Van-
couver.

The probable value of this group was not dis-
regarded by so intelligent an observer as Captain
Cook, who has consequently expressed, in his
latest records, a high sense of the importance
attached to its discovery ; and this in something
like a prophetic spirit, for there was then but
little to indicate the commercial advantages
that would result. The Sperm Whale Fishery,
which has since conducted numerous fleets to
the shores of this Archipelago, with equal ad-
vantage to the natives and their foreign visiters,
was at that time in its infancy, and offered no
prospect of being carried into the North Pacific ;
the fur trade with the N. W. coast of America,
and a lucrative traffic with China and the Spanish
Main, as well as the influx of foreign resident
merchants to establish and conduct these and
other commercial speculations, could only have

VOL. I.

o

194

ISLAND OF OAHU.

been seen in dim perspective ; nor does it ap-
pear that our great navigator was aware of the
abundant supply of valuable sandal-wpod -the
islands were capable of affording, and which, for
some years, has given a powerful stimulus to
the commercial spirit of the people. Recent
years have indeed fully justified the most
sanguine expectations, and exhibit these islands
far surpassing all other Polynesian countries in
commercial prosperity, and their inhabitants
rapidly advancing to the perfect acquirement of
civilized habits. The entire population of the
group is about 150,000.

Oahu, though not the largest, is the most
important of these islands ; since it is the seat
of government, the emporium of commerce, and
in natural advantages is surpassed by none other.
Its size may be estimated at fifty miles in cir-
cumference by thirty in breadth. When first
approached from the sea, its appearance is not
very in\ating — its principal mountains (extend-
ing in a S. E. and N. W. direction through the
centre of the land,) though lofty, are generally
very equal in height, and, consequently, are not
remarkable for boldness or grandeur ; their
more exposed surface is destitute of lofty vege-
tation, and their entire aspect, as well as that
of the coast, would convey to the observer, ac-

PORT OF HONORURU.

195

customed to the excessive verdure of the So-
ciety Islands, an impression that the land was
barren, were not this idea removed, almost as
soon as formed, by a view of the many smiling
valleys which 'intersect the hills, and which, in
common with the sheltered declivities of the
latter, are clothed with a garment of luxuriant
foliage.

Honoruru, the principal settlement of Oahu,
is situated on the southern side of the land, cor-
responding to a wide expanse of smooth sea which
is protected at the distance of about a mile and
a half from the shore by a barrier-reef of coral,
through which a single narrow but convenient
aperture permits the passage of shipping. Its
harbour affords every convenience as a port,
and is capable of containing a very large fleet of
ships not exceeding 500 tons burden, or eighteen
feet draught of water. The barrier-reef differs
remarkably from most similar structures at the
islands of the South Pacific, in sending towards
the ocean a shoal of sufficient extent and depth
of water to afford convenient anchorage in the
roadstead — a situation which many vessels oc-
cupy until they can procure a pilot to enter the
harbour. This roadstead, or “outer harbour,”
is well protected from the trade-winds by the
mohntain-land of Diamond Point, but is ex}x).sed

J96 CORAL FORMATIONS. — TIDES.

toaheavyswell,and becomes extremely hazardous
during the gales from S. W., which are not in-
frequent in the autumn and winter months of
this climate. Waititi Bay, situated a short dis-
tance to the eastward ofHonoruru and formerly
the resort of our voyagers, is now no longer
frequented by foreign shipping.

The coral-reefs around this and other of the
Sandwich Islands are neither numerous nor uni-
formly arranged, and are deficient in those elegant
low islets or motus which so greatly embellish the
Society group. The coral-worms are, neverthe-
less, very busy on the coast, though some, and
probably a geological, cause does not permit
their labours to be so apparent as at the last-
named islands. No regular diurnal tide ob-
tains on the shores of Oahu. The fluctuations
of the surrounding waters are chiefly influenced
by the prevailing winds, excepting at the full
and change of the moon, when it is high water
at half-past two p. m. — the tide having a rise and
fall of two and a half feet.

The town of Honoruru is placed close to the
sea-side. The extensive plain on which it stands
has an arid and dreary appearance, but the
inland country offers some very romantic and
diversified scenery. Two lofty hills particularly
attract attention by their wild and sterile aspect,

EXTINCT VOLCANOES.

197

and by the character of extinct volcanic craters *
which is so strongly pourtrayed in their form and
structure. One of these, named by foreigners
Punch-bowl, or Fort-hill, rises behind the town as
a solitary motint, the shape of a truncated cone,
of burned, rugged, arid sterile appearance, and
its summit crested with rocky eminences, and
excavated in its centre by a deep circular hollow,
covered with stunted herbage. The natural
advantages this hill affords as a point of defence
have induced the islanders to fortify its brow with
eight cannon, commanding the town and harbour
beneath. Diamond Hill (which the natives call
ErihiJ is similar in form to Fort Hill ; though
larger in size,and more impressiveinits character.
It is situated about four miles to the eastward of
Honoruru, on a point of land that bounds Waititi
Bay to the east and south. Its sea aspect is
abrupt, inaccessible, and surmounted by pinna-
cles of white rock ; its summit is encircled by
a broad parapet, bounding a central hollow, or

• The geological character of the Sandwich group is
highly volcanic, and extinct craters are numerous ; though
no active volcanoes exist in any of the islands, except
Hawaii.

t When viewed from the plains of Waititi, these ele-
vated rocks assume a lozenge, or diamond, form ; whence,
prcfbably, the foreign name for the hill has been derived.

198 SCENERY OF THE VALLEYS.

bowl, of great circumference, and which, after
heavy rains, is usually filled with water. Flights
of wild-dueks seek their food in the marshy soil
of the crater ; straggling goats browse amidst
the rocks ; and some pigeons (truants from the
dove-cotes of the town) build their nests in the
cliffs. The sides of the hill are arid and covered
with tufa, and resound beneath the tread like a
subterranean vault. An extraordinary propor-
tion of carbonate of lime exists on its summit,
either in such masses as would result from
burning calcareous bodies, or coating super-
ficially the volcanic rocks ; while the plains
around its base are strewn with vast quantities
of black and porous stones, and circular patches
of lava, evidently the products of a volcanic
emission.

The scenic attractions of this island are chiefly
found in its valleys, which, on the lee coast
in particular, penetrate between the hills ^vith
much uniformity, and afford a considerable
extent of vegetated land, equally pleasing to the
eye and applicable to the purposes of cultiva-
tion. The principal valleys to the westward of
Honoruru are Pauwoa, Anuana, and Kalihi.
They all open upon the coast as broad and
fertile plains and, contracting in breadth as they
retire inland, terminate in dense thickets at the

ANUANU. — VALE OF KOLAU.

199

foot of the lofty range of mountain that divides
the island.

Pauwoa, though small and thinly inhabited,
teems with cultivation, and opens upo.i the
coast with a very picturesque effect. The more
extensive vale of Anudna proceeds inland,
bounded on either side by a majestic range of
mountains, well wooded on their declivities and
for the most part inaccessible at their summits.
Its bosom is covered with spontaneous herbage,
mingled with a few traces of cultivation, and is
watered by several broad and rapid rivers. At
the distance of six or eight miles from the coast,
the gentle acclivity of this valley is succeeded
by a narrow and steep ascent, terminating at a
rocky pass which conducts, by a precipitous
descent, to the opposite, or northern side of the
island. The verge of this precipice, or pari
of the natives, commands a prospect of extreme
beauty. The lovely vale of Kolau, extending
ten miles across from the northern shore
whence it ascends by graceful undulations of
hill and dell, is here spread out beneath the eye
in one diminished and panoramic view ; some of
the hills rising from its bosom, though now
clad with a peaceful mantle of verdure, betray-
ing by their conical form and turreted crest that
they had formerly taken an active part in the

200 THE PARI, OR PRECIPICE.

Plutonic disturbances of the country. In the
extreme distance is seen the boundless ocean,
ruffled by the trade-winds which occasionally
rush with irresistible force through the narrow
chasm at the summit of the pari ; while the pro-
jecting declivities of the central mountains sup-
ply all that is required of wild and wooded
scenery to complete the picture.

It demands no extraordinary love of the pic-
turesque to be delighted with the scene this emi-
nence commands. Nature has here unfolded a
spectacle too beautiful and perfect to permit the
exercise of caprice ; and should the observer
prove insensible to its charms, he would betray
less a deficiency of taste than a want of natural
feeling. This pass offers the most direct com-
munication between the north and south parts
of the island, and is, consequently, much fre-
quented by the natives. The height of its sum-
mit is estimated at 1800 feet above the. sea ; and
although it is approached by so easy an ascent
from the south, its northern face presents seve-
ral hundred feet of precipitous rock, inteiTupted
at intervals by declivities of earth and loose
stones. Viewed from the vale of Kolau, its
heights have a verdant, towering, and majestic
appearance, enlivened by the figures of many
islanders scattered over its ascent in every atti-

DISASTROUS RETREAT OF THE NATIVES. 201

tude of cautious progression. The difficulty I
experienced in crossing the pari caused me to
view with astonishment the activity the natives
displayed in conveying heavy loads over its
steep, and these not merely individual burdens,
but often such as required the united exertions
of two persons to carry them by a pole borne
on the shoulders. This spot is also memorable
amongst the islanders as having been the scene of
a disastrous retreat of the Oahu people after
their defeat in a decisive battle fought in the
valley of Anuana, and which gave to their
invader, Tamehameha, the sovereignty of the
island. In their hurried attempt to escape by
this precipice, it is believed that a greater num-
ber of the defeated party lost their lives by fall-
ing from its heights than were slain in the pre-
vious conflict ; and this it is the easier to be-
lieve, as it requires but a glance at the rugged
descent to perceive how well it is adapted to
complete the overthrow of a retreating army.

Midway between the mouth of this valley and
the pari, a waterfall of great beauty descends
from the eastern mountains, glittering in the
midst of the surrounding foliage, and flowing,
with the smoothness of a mirror, over a perpendi-
cular cliff 200 feet in height, covered with ferns,
mosses, and a large proportion of that elegant

202

PASS OF KALIHI.

club-moss, the Lycopodium arbuscula. A native
tradition informs us, that previous to the ap-
pearance of this cascade a loud noise frequently
issued from the summit of the mountain whence
it now falls, and which was ascribed by the su-
perstition of the islanders to a god in the form of
a lizard who resided there. Since the descent
of the water these mysterious sounds have not
been repeated.

The valley of Kalihi succeeds to that of Anu-
ana, but is less bold and diversified in its
scenery. Human dwellings and cultivated lands
are here very few, or scattered thinly over a
great extent of, probably, the finest soil in the
world. The eommencement of the valley is a
broad pasture-plain — the tall grass waving on
every side, and intersected by a footpath, re-
minding one forcibly of the rural scenes which
precede the hay-harvest in England. Kalihi has
a pass to the vale of Kolau similar to the pari of
Anuana, though more preei])itous, and only em-
ployed by a few of the islanders who convey fish
from Kolau to Honoruru. I descended it in
company with a native guide, but found the task
difficult, and scarcely practicable without the aid
afforded by the boughs of trees.

The valleys lying to the eastward of Honoruru
are Parero and Manoa ; the former of inconsi-

BEAUTIES OF MANOA.

203

derable size, and not remarkably picturesque ;
the latter of great extent and unrivalled in
beauty. Though richer in natural and artificial
graces, Manoa displays much the same general
character as the valleys already mentioned. On
three sides it is bounded by continuous moun-
tains, luxuriantly wooded to their summits,
while the fourth opens to a view of the wide
and distant ocean. Its plains, covered with pas-
turage and resembling the richest meadows, are
chequered with taro patches, conspicuous for
their symmetrical form and the brightness of
their verdure ; footpaths, crossing in many
directions, conduct to scattered native huts ; and
herds of cattle graze tranquilly on the herbage ;
while gigantic boulders of black volcanic stone,
resting on the declivities of the hills or on the
bosom of the vale, contrast powerfully with the
j)revailing softness of the scene. The view of
this valley as commanded from the surrounding
hills is at all times impressive, but some of
the effects produced upon its landscape by the
lights and shades caused by the capricious at-
mos})here of a mountainous region are often
such as to elicit from the observer an expression
of rapture. It is impossible to convey an idea
of the scenic beauties displayed, when a cloud
passes its shadow slowly a(;ross the vale, ob-

204 SETTLEMENT AT HONOR VBU,

scuring, but for a moment, the brightness of a
meridian sun ; or when a local shower spans
the plains with a gaudy rainbow ; or when a
gray mist descends upon the lowlands and veils
them in obscurity, until again raised by the
breeze it rolls over the hills, gradually unfold-
ing the beauty of the lands beneath and re-
storing them to their brightness ; but the sub-
lime effects produced upon a spot like Manoa
by these simple and natural causes must be
seen to be duly appreciated.

Notwithstanding the capabilities of this island,
a very small proportion of its arable land is
under cultivation. Its prevailing soil is argil-
laceous, and calculated to yield ample compen-
sation for agricultural labour. The plains on the
coast are of a less productive character, being,
for the most part, stony, arid, and covered with
the plants tribuluSy sida, and argcmone. Ex-
cepting at points corresponding to the valleys,
and which partake in the nourishing streams
that flow through the latter to the sea, their cul-
tivation is rarely practicable.

The town of Honoruru is large, and contains
the greater part of the population of the island.
Its buildings are irregularly disposed, and vary
in size, material, and architecture, from the
primitive hut to large and substantial houses

NATIVE DWELLINGS. — ROYAL LODGE. 206

built of hewn coral and finished in the neatest
European style. The native population continue
to occupy their primitive dwellings ; and even
the principal chiefs, who possess, or can com-
mand, houses in the European fashion, yet give
the preference to this mode of residence as being
better adapted to their comfort. The superior
kind of native hut is large and neatly built,
although from its form, and the circumstance
of its being entirely covered with dried grass,
its appearance is that of a hay-stack. Its interior,
however, is a lofty and capacious apartment,
neatly spread with the mats of the country, and
possessing a cool temperature which amply com-
pensates for the rough appearance of the ex-
terior.

The late residence of the royal chief of these
islands is a grass hut, standing within an enclosed
plain behind the town. It differs from the
better kind of native huts only in its larger size,
glazed windows, and in the ridges of the roof
and sides being adorned with dried ferns, which
latter ornament has a much more pleasing effect
than the simple character of the material would
lead us to expect. The present royal lodge,
(which occupies the same enclosure as the last,)
is a wooden house, raised to the height of a sin-
gle story and painted yellow. Its architecture

206

FORTS.

is perfectly European ; but it has a diminutive,
toy-like appearance that detracts from its merit
as a “ palace.”

Two forts protect the town, one at the
summit of Punch-bowl hill, and a second
erected close to the sea at the eastern extremity
of the settlement. The latter fort was com-
menced by some Russian settlers, who were
expelled the island for so suspicious a demon-
stration, and was subsequently completed by the
natives themselves. It occupies a large space
of ground, is built of hewn coral, and mounts
sixty guns, some of them of large caliber.
In the interior (which is kept in a very ne-
glected state) there are two respectable build-
ings — the one a house occupied by the com-
mandant, the other a strongly-built and stuccoed
edifice, employed as a magazine. Both forts are
jealously guarded by the natives — little less than
an order from the king enabling foreigners to
inspect them. Each battery hoists the Hawaiian
flag — horizontal stri])es, blue, white, red, with
the British union in the upper corner, next the
staff.

The principal public building in Honoruru, as
regards the utility of its object and the excel-
lence of its architecture, is one recently erected
under the title of the “ English School,” and ap-

ENGLISH SCHOOL.

207

plied to the education of the numerous half-
caste and white offspring of British and Ameri-
can residents. The expense of the erection is
estimated at 2000 dollars. It is built of stone,
a square tower of the same material being raised
on its roof, while the interior is commodious and
judiciously fitted up. This institution was
founded at the suggestion of the British Consul
for these islands, and is supported by voluntary
contribution. The duties of tuition have been
assigned to the able management of Mr. and
Mrs. Johnson, of the American mission, and,
upon an average, more than forty children of
each sex deidve, from this source, daily instruc-
tion in the ordinary branches of English educa-
tion. The foreigners’ church has also some
architectural pretensions. It is built partly with
coral wall, jiartly with wood, and has a tower at
one extremity. The upper part of the building
is that applied to the service of the church, and
is furnished in a neat and appropriate manner ;
while several apartments beneath, pro\dded with
a library and periodical publications, are open to
the public as reading rooms. The native church
is a long building in the form of a hut, its sides
covered with pandanus leaves, and its roof
thatched with grass ; its interior is furnished
like that of similar edifices at the Society Islands.

208

EXOTIC LUXURIES.

At the time of our visit it had a very mean and
dilapidated appearance, not at all in accordance
with the advance to even the luxury of archi-
tecture which is displayed in the dwellings of
the foreign residents, missionaries, and principal
chiefs. A plot of ground at the sea-side is used
as a market, where the natives bring for sale the
produce of their lands. Owing to the number
of foreigners now settled on this island, exer-
cising various trades and keeping well-stocked
shops, supplies of almost every description can
be obtained at Honoruru with the same facility
as at a second-rate sea port in England ; while
several hotels, or boarding houses of different
grades, a well-equipped billiard-room, bowling- .
alleys, lotteries, auctions, and amateur theatri-
cals, afford much accommodation and amuse-
ment to the foreign resident.

The inhabitants of the town obtain their
chief supply of water from wells sunk in the vi-
cinity of their dwellings. All the natives resid-
ing on the coast are so pertinacious in retain-
ing possession of the few streams which pass
over their grounds, and which are so essential
to their taro cultivation, that it requires no
trifling exertion of interest with the highest
authorities to obtain permission to detach a small

PHYSICAL CHARACTER OF THE NATIVES. 209

stream from a larger, and to conduct it over a
tract of arid land.

The natives of Oahu may be taken as an ex-
ample of the Sandwich Islanders generally. In
complexion and figure they differ in no material
degree from the people of the Society Islands,
but their features are coarser and have a less
agreeable, expression. They are robust and ac-
tive, and corpulence is rare, excepting amongst
the highest ranks, whose indolent or gluttonous
habits tend to promote this desirable distinction.
The females cannot, collectively, bear the palm
for dark beauty ; on the contrary, they are in
personal appearance less favoured than the men,
and are very inferior to the women of the Society
Islands. In their intercourse with each other,
as well as with foreigners, these islanders are
gloomy or reserved, and display none of that
almost-infantine playfulness and kindness so
conspicuous in the Tahitians. In the demeanour
of the different ranks of society, also, they offer
a strong contrast to the latter people, the Sand-
wich Island chiefs bearing themselves with much
aristocratic pride, and exercising a despotic
power over their inferiors, who submit patiently
to their authority and never venture upon the
slightest approach to familiarity.

Since this country produces no spontaneous

»VOL. I.

p

210 OPPRESSED STATE OP THE PEASANTRY.

edible fruits, the poorer classes of the population
are compelled to labour, as well for the necessaries
as for the conveniences of life ; and, however
PEOne to Asiatic indolence, are obliged to assume,
and hence acqiiire, habits of industry unknown
to the inhabitants of the more luxurious islands
of the South Pacific. Nor are the labours of
the peasantry limited to the supply of their own
wants ; the exorbitant exactions of the chiefs
leave them but little of the fruits of their industry,
and often deprive them of the profit they might
derive from the sale of the surplus produce of
their lands.

Their moral condition is much the same as
that of the Society Islanders. The women are not
“ dragons of virtue,” but when permitted by the
laws, flock on board foreign ships in considerable
numbers. The entire population shows a great
disposition to adopt the European costume,
even to the extent of shoes and stockings, w'hich
is always the last innovation in dress admitted by
the uncivilized people of warm climates, and but
few of the natives are now seen scantily attired in
bark-cloth, excepting the poorest class of peasant-
ry. The chiefs invariably wear a complete and re-
spectable English dress ; and those among them
who hold offices of authority assume a neat
uniform of blue broadcloth, resembling the un-
dress of the British military and naval officers.

MODERN IMPROVEMENTS IN DRESS. 211

Their wives, also, envelope their colossal persons
in European manufactures of a very superior
description, and upon every fresh importation of
novelties in dress are usually purchasers to a
large amount. It sometimes occurs that a
chiefess will engross an entire investment of a
favourite silk or riband rather than that any
portion of it should be worn by a female of inferior
rank.

As blue calico, or dungaree, is most valued
by the Society Islanders for female attire, so
here black silk is the fashionable material for
the same purpose. In adorning their heads the
Oahu ladies display much taste. Bonnets, which
were at one time considered a test of decorum
and religious reformation, are nearly exploded
amongst the younger fashionists, who now wear
their hair uncovered, curled, arranged in the
English mode, and surmounted by a tortoise-
shell comb — the size and quality of the latter
ornament being the criterions of wealth and
fashion. The primitive lais is also worn en-
circling the head. With the females of high rank
this last is an ornament of great value, and
consists of a thick roll of feathers, presenting on
its surface the appearance of plush or velvet,
and bright with the hues of yellow, green, and
red, natural to the plumage of the birds. Feathers

212

PERSONAL ORNAMENTS.

artiticiallv coloured are never used for this pur-
pose, but, on the contrary, are easily 'discrimi-
nated by the natives and rejected with con-
tempt. Young girls of inferior rank decorate
their tresses with his of flowers ; and the effect
produced by either the feather or floral chap-
let is highly becoming to the native com-
plexion and style of features. The golden, and
often double corolla of the rima, (Sida,) the
flowers of the ohia, ( Eugenia malhccensis,) those
of the kau, ('Sehestina,) as well as transverse
slices of the drupes of the Pandanus, are Largely
employed for lais and necklaces by both sexes,
but neither the men or women wear ear-orna-
ments.

The custom of tatooing the skin was never
very general amongst these islanders and is
now almost obsolete. The primitive tatooed
marks, as displayed on the persons of the older
natives, are less elegant than those exhibited by
the Society Islanders, and are chiefly represen-
tations of cocoa-nut trees, birds, sharks, fans,
and anomalous dots and lines, thinly scattered
over the trunk and extremities ; the face being
seldom marked.

A remarkable method of staining the skin is
adopted by both sexes, and appears to be pecu-
liar to this people. It consists in applying to the
surface of the body the recent root of the plant

PECULIAR DECORATIONS.

213

idiee, (Plumbago Zeylanica,) when a temporary
irritation is produced on the skin, and the latter
becomes stained of a dark hue, similar to that
produced by lunar caustic, and equally perma-
nent. The taste of the native is chiefly shown
in arranging on his skin portions of this root in
the form of stars, crosses, circles, or other de-
vices, which subsequently remain conspicuous
for their blackness above the natural hue of the
native complexion. A practice also obtains with
the females of staining' their cheeks and hands
with the red juice from the berries of the herb
Phytolacca dodecandria, or as a substitute for
this vegetable dye, which is rather difficult to
obtain, they will now sometimes employ the
pink fluid contained in the flowers of the exotic
Marvel of Peru. (Mirabilis Jalapa.j When thus
rouged they appear to possess florid complex-
ions, struggling through the natural bronze of
the skin, and in a female with got)d features the
effect is pleasing, not to say imposing.

These islanders subsist almost entirely upon
taro roots, sweet potatoes, and fish. Taro is their
chief dependence — it is to them as the bread-
fruit to the Tahitians, and its cultivation is their
most important agricultural employment. They
eat it in the form of a paste, or poc, which they
prefer when it is in a fermented and acid state.
Tlie vast quantity of this food which an ordinary

214

DIET OF THE ISLANDERS,

native, but more especially a chief, will devour
at one meal is a subject of perfect astonishment
to the European. When intended to be kept
for some length of time, the baked taro roots
are pounded into a dry and compact mass, which
is enveloped in leaves, and named by the natives
ai pa a, or hard food.

Yams, bananas, and bread-fruit, are very rarely
consumed by the generality of natives. The
first named vegetable is chiefly grown for the
supply of shipping, and the two last are far from
being abundant. Swine and fowls are also
much less numerous here than at the Society
Islands, and are mostly reared for traffic with
foreign vessels.

As adjuncts to their vegetable food, the poorer
natives collect wild herbs from the pasture-
lands, chiefly a kind of wood-sorrel, or a species
of Euphorbia, and even an idva which forms
“ the green mantle of the standing pool while
(Tow'ds of the same people may be seen swim-
ming and diving outside the great reef at Hono-
ruru, to obtain shell-fish, crabs, sea-weed, and
other marine esculents, which they deposit in
floating calabashes, and convey to the shore for
their day’s meal.

There is no animal food which a Sandwich
Islander esteems so much as fish ; whether re-
cent, salted, or even in a state of putrefaction.

DIET OF THE ISLANDERS.

215

it always proves acceptable to some class of the
population. Many canoes are employed day
and night in fishing off the shores of Oahu, yet
the supply of fish is not equal to the demand,
and large quantities, (often including sharks and
other coarse kinds,) dried or salted, are imported
into Honoruru from the neighbouring islands.
The chiefs, whose diet is less restricted, keep
live fish in tanks, or reservoirs of sea water dug
in the vicinity of the coast, and have some of the
smaller kinds, taken in the bays, conveyed alive
to the interior of the island in calabashes of sea-
water. The fe, or cuttle-fish, is considered a
luxury by all classes : when fresh and well cooked
it is certainly an excellent food, and in consist-
ence and flavour is not unlike the flesh of a
lobster’s claw.

A palatable native dish is prepared, by stewing
in an oven an assemblage of fowls or other meat,
young taro-leaves, and sweet-potatoes, the whole
contained in a calabash. Thus cooked, the taro-
leaves afford a wholesome and agreeable food.
The entire dish is called Imu, a name which is
also applied by the foreign residents to any
public or jovial feast.

Since the preparation of taro poe is a tedious
task, and many of the natives in Honoruru are
transient visiters, or actively occupied as sei’-
vants to foreigners, a market is established in

216

NATIVE HOTEL. — MATS.

the town, where that popular food can be pur-
chased in a state fit for immediate consumption.
A hut, called by foreigners the “ native hotel,”
has also been opened as an eating house for the
same class of people ; and here, it is not uncom-
mon to see a skinned dog suspended invitingly
at the door, to denote what dainties may be had
within, in the same manner as a turtle or ahaunch
of venison is occasionally exhibited at restaura-
tmr establishments in London. From the
roasted and saccharine root of the Ti shrub the
islanders distil a spirituous liquor called kava,
and which is similar to the mm prepared from
the bread fruit at the Society Islands. Though
no restriction is placed upon its preparation or
use, and some of the natives will indulge immo-
derately in this, as well as in foreign spirits,
drunkenness is not a popular vice.

Amongst the manufactures of Oahu are mats,
fabricated by hand from a tall rush, ( Scirpus
lacustris, atatai of the natives,) and which in
texture and size are very superior to the mats
manufactured at most of the southern islands.
They are chiefly used to cover the floors of the
more respectable huts, as well as for sleeping
upon. When employed for the latter purpose
they are often raised as a pile three feet in
height, and are graduated in the fineness of
their texture from below upwards. The pri-

EMkIDLOTH. — VEGETABLE DYES. 217

mitive cloth, kapa, is yet very commonly manu-
factured at this island. It is here prepared
from the bark of the mamaki, (Bochmeria
alhida,) and from that of the wauti, or paper-
mulberry tree. It is generally inferior to that
prepared at the Society Islands, but no Polyne-
sian nation surpasses the Sandwich Islanders in
the gaudy colours and complicated patterns
they communicate to this fabric. The colours
they chiefly employ are red, derived from veget-
ables, as well as from an ochrous earth ; yellow,
from the root of the Indian-mulberiy, and from
a second vegetable dye which gives a peculiarly
bright amber-colour ; black, from the carbona-
ceous residue of burned candle-nuts ; and a
delicate green-yellow, from an infusion of the
flowers of the cotton-plant ; a peculiar dull-gray,
or slate-colour, is also produced, by immersing
the cloth in the black mud of the taro fields.
The mordants they use to fix these colours are
the oil of the candle-nut, and the astringent
water of the taro patches. The more intricate
patterns are impressed upon the cloth with
carved bamboos, in a manner analogous to that
in which European wood-cuts are executed.

The people have been deprived of their an-
cient dances through the influence of the mis-
sionaries, and their taste and appliances for
n^usic are not of a superior order. Their idea

218

POPULAR AMUSEMENTS,

of song is beyond every thing extraordinary. It
was long before I could rightly comprehend that
the droll concatenation of sounds proceeding
from a cheerful native were intended for vocal
harmony — the loud, whining, and monotonous
tone of a school-boy spelling a long word aifords
the best comparison for their very peculiar mode
of singing. In musical talent they are decidedly
inferior to the Society Islanders ; some young
females, trained by the missionaries to sing at
the church of Honoruru, though they have
powerful and good voices, are constantly getting
astray in time and tune. Tlie primitive musical
instruments, yet in use, are drums, made from a
calabash and covered with shark’s skin ; flutes ;
large and empty calabashes, beaten upon with the
hands and allowed to fall on bales of cloth with
a dull booming sound, which is acc^ompanied by
a wild chant from the performer ; and two sticks,
beaten together as an accompaniment to a song
called hura ke rami.

The only aboriginal games we noticed among
them was one resembling quoits ; a second
played with black and white stones on a
checquer-board, in a manner approaching to
chess or draughts ; and the puke, or darting rods
along the smooth ground to, or beyond, a deter-
mined mark. Horsemanship is row a favourite
exercise with both sexes — the females riding

PROGRESS OF CHRISTIANITY.

219

a la fourchette. They invariably ride at full
gallop ; and a native peasant, attired in primitive
costume, and mounted on the bare baek of a
steed, bears, in his attitude, his naked and well-
proportioned limbs, and his cloth flowing wildly
about him, no slight resemblance to an eques-
trian figure from the antique, executed in
bronze.

Saturday afternoon is the weekly period
when the town of Honoruru teems with life and
gaiety ; when native belles and beaux, decked in
their best attire, either promenade the roads to
gaze at equestrians, or, if fortune has been fa-
vourable, are themselves raised to their second
heaven — the back of a horse. To be on foot at
this particular time is considered by the natives to
express a sad deficiency either in taste or dollars,
for should the latter be but sparingly possessed,
a donkey (of which anim.al the island affords a
plentiful breed) would be procured as a dernier
ressort.

Christianity, which is now the religion of the
state, was first introduced among this people by
a party of missionaries from the United States of
America, about the year 1820 . Since that time,
religious and general education has advanced so
rapidly over all the islands, that idolatrous cere-
monies are totally obliterated, and the rising ge-
neration now regard a ruined morai, or a wooden

220 EXPULSION OF CATHOLIC MISSIONARIES.

deity, with the same traditionary interest that the
British attach to their druidical remains. The
natives are sufficiently attentive to their religious
duties, and the sabbath (which at these islands
is kept on the correct day) is strictly observed.

The American missionaries on this group are
strong in number, as well as in influence with
the native chiefs, who usually consult them upon
all their more important political or commercial
afiairs. They appear to be, for the most part, well-
informed men, and zealous in the discharge of
their duties. In worldly matters they are parti-
cularly well favoured ; few of the foreign resi-
dents possess better dwellings, or more available
comforts ; their supplies from their native land
are liberal and regular ; a schooner packet runs
between the islands at their command ; and a
physician, resident on each island, has the charge
of their health.

A few years ago a party of Roman Catholic
missionaries, from California, arrived at Oahu,
and proceeded to make converts among the na-
tives. This being far from agreeable to tiie Pro-
testant mission, the native authorities, acting
ostensibly upon their own o})inions, put a speedy
termination to the duties of the strangers by
sending them off the island in a summary man-
ner ; while those of the islanders who had lis-
tened to the voice of the scarlet lady were made

DEATH OF KAMANELI.

221

to recant by the exercise of some severity. It
was, confessedly, ill advised on the part of
popish teachers to intrude thus upon an arena
already occupied hy a protestant party ; but how-
ever much we may dislike to see conflicts of
faith which have too often deluged the world
with hlood, and made religion a cloak for the
gratification of the worst passions of man, it is
yet to be lamented that the American mission-
aries should have been stained, even by implica-
tion, with an act of intolerance.

The ceremonies of baptism and marriage are
generally submitted to by the natives, and mo-
nogamy is enforced, but the civil laws of the
country so little aid the religious that divorce is
as easy as it is common.

The custom of wailing over the dead (so simi-
larly pursued by unsophisticated nations far re-
mote from each other,) is yet practised by these
islanders to its primitive extent. While we re-
mained at Honoruru, Kamaneli, the favourite
mistress of the king, and daughter of Kuakini,
the governor of Hawaii, expired after a short
and painful illness. The event was notified by
a discharge of minute guns from the forts, and
by the national flag being hoisted at half-mast — a
mark of respect also paid by the foreign ship-
ping in the harbour. Passing through the town
on the same day, my attention was drawn by a

222

MOURNING CEREMONIES.

loud wailing, proceeding from dense groups of
native females seated around the dwelling in
which the deceased chiefess reposed. Upon en-
tering the house of mourning I found a capacious
apartment filled with natives of both sexes, but
principally females, all dressed in full English
costume, and waited upon by attendants bearing
feather fans ; one elderly woman, seated cross-
legged on a mat in the centre of the assembly,
being sufficiently conspicuous to mark her as a
mourner of no inferior rank. A ctirtain, stretched
across one extremity of the apartment, was raised
on my entrance, and the persons within beckoned
me to approach, when, accepting their invitation,

I entered a smaller room, in the centre of which,
on a pile of mats, was laid the corpse of Kamaneli,
an interesting female, apparently about eighteen
years of age. Her face was exposed, but the
rest of the body was covered with a white cloth.
A corpulent chief was seated at the head of the
corpse, fanning it with a bunch of feathers ;
while several females, assembled around, joined
in the loud wail which continued almost without
intermission. It consisted in a constant repeti-
tion of the word am ! (alas !) the last letter
being prolonged for a considerable time with a
sound which, rushing upon the ear from a mul-
titude of voices, and always in the same mono-
tonous and mournful tone, produced a peculiar

ANCIENT SEPULCHRAL CAVES.

223

effect on the mind. From whatever cause it
arose, whether from mere accordance with eti-
quette, or from genuine feeling, there were cer-
tainly but few tearless eyes amongst the natives
assembled around the dwelling; nor did the
slightest levity betray even a momentary for-
getfulness of the object for which they had met
together.

The funeral was delayed until after our depar-
ture from the island ; but I was informed, that
at the command of the king the ancient cere-
monies were revived on the occasion, and that it
was conducted with all the feathered splendour
which formerly attended the interment of royal
chiefs. The practice of mutilating the person
upon the decease of a chief of high rank is now
abolished ; many of the present generation, how-
ever, exhibit a sad deficiency of front teeth,
owing to their personal tributes of sorrow or re-
s])ect upon the demise of their last heathen mo-
narch, Tamehameha II.

It has been recently ascertained, that it was
an ancient custom with these islanders to de-
posit their dead in the large caverns formed by
lava currents. Those selected for the purpose
were usually situated in the most retired places,
and their situation preserved as a secret which
was retained and handed down only in one pri-
vileged family. C. B. Rooke, Esq., an intelligent

224

HAWAIIAN DIALECT.

English surgeon, resident at Oahu, informed me
that he had visited several of these sepulchral
caves on different islands of the group. The
bodies they contained were numerous, mostly in
a mummy state, and placed in a sitting posture,
with their limbs flexed ; they were enveloped in
bark-cloth, and some of them had portions of
sugar-cane in their hands, and calabashes, which
had contained poe, by their sides.

The language spoken at these islands is now
called the Hawaiian. Its alphabet contains se-
venteen letters ; Ar and I being added to those
that belong to the Tahitian dialect, while the
letter f, so prominently employed in the latter
tongue, is in this deficient : /, n, and r, as well
as t and k, are commutable letters ; and as such
are very capriciously employed. In words com-
mon to both dialects, the letter h is usually sub-
stituted in Hawaiian for the f of the Tahitian ;
the I for the r ; and the k for the t : thus, the
Tahitian words fara, the pandanus tree ; motUyim
islet; tal, the sea; and rau, a leaf; are pro-
nounced in the Hawaiian as hala, moku, kai, and
lau.

A free use of vowels and of the liquid I, com-
pensating for the frequent occurrence of the
sharp consonant k, renders this dialect, on the
whole, harmonious ; the natives speak it also
with a peculiar singing tone which has a novel

KDIICATION.

and pleasing effect. Some of its words are the
same as in the Tahitian tongue, others vary only
, in the substitution of letters, (as above instanced,)
but the majority are totally different ; and al-
though Society and Sandwich Islanders readily
acquire each others’ language, it is not without
difficulty that a conversation can be satisfactorily
carried on between the two people upon their
first communication. It is believed by intelli-
gent European residents, that the natives of high
rank possess a distinct language, or a modifica-
tion of the normal, in which they can converse
together in a manner unintelligible to those who
are only acquainted with the vulgar tongue. In
reducing the Hawaiian dialect to a written form,
the same system has been adopted as with the
Tahitian ; both languages are consecpiently ame-
nable to the same rules of orthography and
pronunciation

The Sandwich Islanders are on the whole
better educated than the Tahitians. Their
missionaries are active in encouraging amongst
them a taste for general knowledge, and iu
affording them the means of giMtifying it.
While we remained at Oahu, a weekly periodical
in the native language was regularly issued
from the Missionary Press ; it is entitled " Ku
Kumu Hawaii,” or “ The Hawaiian Teacher," and

»VOL. 1,

u

226

MISSIONARY PUBLICATIONS.

consists of a single sheet, containing subjects
for moral and general instruction, local intelli-
gence, and traditional songs of the islands ; and
is embellished with wood-cuts, illustrative of
public buildings in Europe, foreign animals,’ and
other objects calculated to excite curiosity in
the native mind. The Missionaries had made
considerable progress in the compilation of a
complete Hawaiian dictionary ; while school-
books and religious publications, also printed in
the native tongue, were so numerous and well-
diffused as to be seen in almost every peasant's
hut.

FEUDAL CHIEFS.

227

CHAPTER Viri.

Historical notice of the royal chiefs of Hawaii — Account
of the reigning sovereign, Kauikeaouli — The Princess
Tabu Nahiennaena — Incestuous privilege of the royal
family — State of the government — Military — Police —
Laws and penalties — Navy — Commerce — Foreign re-
sidents — Jealousy of the natives — Account of the late
Mr. John Young, the Patriarch of Hawaii — Minini,
“ Fatlier of the Foreigners” — Half-castes — The late
Isaac Davies — Particulars of his capture and detention
by the Sandwich Islanders — Duplicity of Taineliarnelia

— Meet the crew of a Japanese junk at Oahu — Their
adventures and disasters — Diseases of the islandervS —
Native physicians — The remedies they employ — De-
crease of population — Its causes considered — Physical
etfects of civilization — Cdimate — Natural productions —
The aboriginal, or poe dog — Exotic breed of oxen

— Dirds — Uses to which their plumage is applied by
the natives — Plovers — The Sandwich Island (loose
— Fish — Crustacea — Teredo navalis, or “ship-borer” —
Insects — The Sphinx pungens — Native mode of cap-
turing it — Indigenous and exotic vegetation.

When the Sandwich Archipelago was dis-
covered by Captain Cook, each island was under
the dominion of many feudal chiefs, one of
whom usually exceeded the others in power and
had the authority of a monarch. Taraiopu

Q 2

228

TARAIOPU.— TAMEHAMEHA II.

was at that time the royal chief of Hawaii ; and
it will be remembered, that a rash attempt on
the part of the English to obtain possession of
his person, with a view to enforce the restitution
of property stolen from the discovery-ships, was
the primary cause of that conflict with the
islanders in which our lamented navigator
perished. Upon the demise of Taraiopu, about
the year 1780, his nephew Tamehameha (an en-
terprising chief who had much influence with his
countrymen) usurped the sovereign power, and
established his claim after a sanguinary civil
war, in which the son and rightful successor of
Taraiopu was slain.

Subsequently to Vancouver’s visit to Hawaii,
in 1793, Tamehameha invaded most of the
other islands of this group with success, and,
cancelling their independence, added them to
his possessions. He was remarkable for his
attachment to the ancient customs of his coun-
try, and died an idolater about the year 1819.*

* A porfrait of Tamehanielia, taken by a Russian
artist and representing him attired in liis favourite cos-
tume, a striped shirt, and the scarlet waistcoat presented
to him by Vancouver, was shown to some natives who
had formerly been the associates of the warrior-monarclu
and their opinion of it asked. They admitted that the
likeness was very correct; but when questioned as to

KING RIHO-RIHO.

229

His eldest son, Riho-riho, or Tamehameha IL,
succeeded to the royal authority ; and soon
after removed the seat of government from
Kearakekua Bay, in Hawaii, to the port it now
occupies at Oahu. The earliest and most im-
portant measure of the new monarch, and one
equally remarkable for the vastness of its design
and the intrepidity of its execution, was the
abrupt abolition of idol-worship and all the
savage customs connected with it. A civil
war in Hawaii was the immediate result of
this bold proceeding, but the uniform success
that attended the arms of Riho-riho, in suppress-
ing the idolatrous faction, served but to in-
crease his ])ower and to diffuse his enlightened
opinions.

When we reflect, that this energetic measure
was .spontaneous on the part of Riho-riho — that
no Christian teachers had >then found their way
to the Sandwich Islands — and consequently,
that all enlightened sentiments entertained by
the royal chief must have been either intuitive
or derived fi'om a few lay Europeans — we are
compelletl to admit that it affords an instance of
precocity in civilized ideas, or an originality

the particular points of re.seinblance, unanimously declared
them to be the shirt and scarlet waistcoat.

UIHO-RIHO’S VISIT TO ENGLAND.

of thought, almost unparalleled in the history
of barbarous nations. Under the reign of this
chief, the large and fertile island of Tauai, with
its neighbour Nihau, and which had hitherto
remained independent, was added to the terri-
tories of the Hawaiian dynasty ; thus rendering
the entire group a united kingdom.

The particulars of the visit to England paid
by Riho-riho and his queen, Kamehamara — the
liberal attentions the royal party received from
the British government — the audience they had
of his Majesty George IV. — the death of the two
principal personages during their stay in London
— and the conveyance of their remains, together
with the surviving members of their suite, to
Oahu, by the Blonde frigate, in 1825 — must be
yet fresh in the memory of the British public.

Riho-riho left no otfspring ; and Kauikeaouli,
his younger bi'other,* being a minor, the go-
vernment of these islands was for some years
condu(;ted by a regency, and principally by the
queen-dowager Kinau. At the period of our visit,

* Although born of one of Tamehameha’s queens, and
recogni.sed as the son of that monarch, Kauikeaouli has
his |)aternity popularly assifjncd to the present Governor
of Maui ; a chief who formerly held a no less inninmtial
post in the court of Tamehameha than that of keeper of
the harem.

DESCRIPTION OF THE REIGNING MONARCH. 231

Kauikeaouli, or Tamehaineha III., had assumed
the regal office. He was about two-and-twenty
} ears of age, robustly framed, and of average
stature ; his features strongly national, and
neither handsome nor intelligent. He wore a
respectable English dress, and his manners were
easy and courteous, though too much tinctured
by the affectation forcibly denominated “ swag-
ger,” to be altogether graceful or dignified.
Billiards, horsemanship, and cards, appeared to
be his favourite recreations. European resi-
dents, best acquainted with the character of the
young monarch, describe’ him as being pos-
sessed of many amiable qualities and of some
natural and acquired talents, but eonsider that
the society he selects tends to suppress his
better and to foster his less favourable feelings.

Several fine young men, half-caste natives,
a ct in the (mmbined capacity of companions and
body-guard to tlnur sovereign. They are desig-
nated hvrv mann, or birds’ feathers, — a term
metaphorical, it is to be presumed, of their
being at once an ornament and a protection to
their employer.

The princess Tabu Nahiennaena, a daughter
of Tamehaineha I., resides at her brother’s court,
and her movements abroad are attended by a
large retinue of females, as those of the king

232 REMARKABLE ROYAL PRIVILEGE.

are by males. She is older than Kauikeaouli,
and thong'll not handsome, is tall and graceful
in her person. At an early period of their lives,
a marriage was pending between the present
king and his sister Nahiennaena, but this was
set aside through the influence of the missi-
onaries : it is so generally admitted, however, by
all classes of people at Oahu, that this princess
ranks among the number of her brother’s mis-
tresses, or “ native wives,” as not to allow of a
doubt that such is really the ease, notwithstand-
ing the fact has been so warmly denied by Mr.
Stewart, in his published account of these is-
lands. Marriage between brothers and sisters
has been a custom with the Sandwich Islanders,
as it was with the ancient Egyptians. Amongst
the former nation, however, the practice did not
extend to the mass of the population, but was
more espe(;ially a jirivilegc of the blood-royal ;
and apjieurs to have been founded upon political,
or exclusive motives, not unknown in more ci-
vilized courts, lliho-riho and his queen, who
accompanied him to England, were brother and
sister, claiming a common pai’ent in Tanieha-
nieha, though born of different mothers.

In the existing state of the Hawaiian govern-
ment, the prerogatives of the crown are not nu-
merous, and cun seldom effect any important

STANDING ARMY.

233

political measure without the concurrence of
the aristocracy. It is probhble, however, that the
degree of absolute power vested in the throne
depends much upon the talent and disposition
of the monarch. Tamehameha I. and Riho-riho
reigned with very despotic sway; while the
comparative inefficiency of the present king, the
effects of a protracted regency, and the increas-
ing influence of a powerful church-party, have
now tended greatly to throw the reins of go-
vernment into the hands of the principal chiefs.
Each of the larger islands of this Archipelago is
under the control of a resident governor or
viceroy. Kinau (formerly queen-regent) now
holds that office at Oahu, and Kauikeaouli
being as yet without issue, her children may be
regarded as next in succession to the royal
title.

We found these islands in a state of profound
peace. Their actu;d military force is the entire
adult male population. European munitions of
war are abundant, and have entirely superseded
the use of ancient w-eapons A small standing
army is maintained at Oahu ; a regiment com-
posed of rather more than a hundred men being
mustered every morning, by bi'at of drum, in
the enclosure, around the royal lodge, where the
troops, armed with firelocks, are exercised in

234

NATIVE POLICE AND LAWS.

European military evolutions. The officers hold
commissions corresponding in name and rank
to those used in the British service, and give
the word of command in hlnglish. Their ap-
pearance, on parade, is uniform and respect-
able ; hut the privates have little more of the
appearance of soldiers than the musket gives
them. A military band, on a modest scale, is
also attached to this establishment of the
“ King’s-own.”

The tranquillity of the town of Honoruru is
preserved by an efficient native police. At.
night a bell declares the hour, and a patrol
travei’ses the roads, expressing watchfulness by
a loud exclamation of nroha ! * Botli natives
and foreigners offending against the island laws
are immediately apprehended by the police, and
committed to the town foi’t, (which serves also
as the public j^rison,) where they are confined
until their offence is adjudged by the chiefs,
who act as magistrates. Ini][)ortant criminal
cases are deci<led by a jury, im])anneled upon
the same imjtartial principles as in English
legislature. Pecuniary fine is the ])enalty at-
tached to almost every offence — a j)unishment

* The native .salutation. It may be translated love, or
friendship.

HAWAIIAN NAVY.

235

which, while it bears an aspect of lenity, afflicts
offenders in their most vulnerable point, and
brings at the same time a great increase of re-
venue to the government. One instance of a
formal and public punishment came under our
notice while we remained at Honoruru. A
native who had attempted the life of another, by
stabbing him with a knife, was sentenced to
pay a pecuniary fine, and to be publicly flogged.
The last part of this sentence was carried into
execution in an open s])ae(; in the town. The
assembled functionaries were dressed in full
uniform ; a statement of the offence and the
sentence of the (^ourt were read on the spot ; and
forty lashes were severedy inflicted, but elicited
from the culprit no expression of suffering.

The Sandwiidi Islanders were early conspicu-
ous for the excellence of their naAW, after the
European style, and in this respect tluiv continue
to surpass every other Polynesian nation. Their
vessels belong usually to the king and principal
chiefs ; and have, for the most j)art, been ob-
tained from the British or Americans by pur-
chase, or by barter with sandal-wood. In the
year 18*22, (when the British government sent
a schooner as a present to Tamehameha,) the
Hawaiians possessed ten ships, each of more than
100 tons burden, besides several small schooners

236

COMMERCE.

and sloops ; but since that time their number
has rather diminished than increased, and the
chiefs appear less anxious than formerly to as-
sume the precarious position of ship-owners.
Some years ago, the Tamchameha, a fine brig
belonging to the Sandwich Islands, and equipped
as a man of war, sailed from Oahu to obtain
sandal-wood at a distant island. She never r(!-
turned ; and the chief Boki, so well known as
the (iompanion of Riho-riho upon his visit to
London, was among the number of those who
are supposed to have pei’ished in that ill-fated
expedition.

The primitive canoes, yet employed for the pur-
poses of fishing and coasting, are very superior
to those in use at the Society Islands ; the
largest and most valuable kind is made from
the wood of the koa. ( Acacia falcata.J They
are very neatly formed, and, although of great
length, are light and swift on the water.

The commerce of this group is almost entirely
engrossed by the island of Oahu. It principally
consists in a traffic with the N.W. coast of Ame-
rica, China, the Spanish Main, and the United
States of America; from which last country
these islands are chiefly supjflied with foreign
manufactures. Numerous South-Seamen, also,
annually visiting the different islands of the

STAPLE COMMODITIES.— PILOT ADAMS. 237

group, bring a great influx of specie, and a pow-
erful demand upon the agricultural industry of
the inhabitants. Traffic is now conducted en-
tirely with specie, the currency being chiefly
the coins of the American republics.

The staple commodities of the group are at
present very few. Sandal-wood is the principal
of these, but the demands for it have been so
urgent, and so much beyond the resources of
the country, that nearly all the large trees have
been destroyed, and for some time past the
government has very prudently prohibited the
cutting of young wood. The fossil salt of Oahu,
and some hides, chiefly afforded by the wild cat-
tle of Hawaii, are therefore the only available
exports that remain ; but the cultivation of
sugar has been lately commenced under favour-
able auspices, and i)romises well for the com-
mercial interests of the ])eople.

Foreign vessels, entering the port of Honoruru,
are boarded by a pilot outside the great reef, and
are served with a copy of Port Regulations,
printed in the Finglish and Hawaiian languages.
The expenses of harbour-dues and pilotage for a
vessel of 250 tons burden, anchoring in the
“ inner harbour,” amount to about sixty dollars.
The pilot is a fine old Fiiiglish sailor, named
Adams. He was second officer of the brig Ka-

238 MR. YOUNG, PATRIARCH OF HAWAII.

humanu at the time she was purchased from the
English by Tamehameha, and he subsequently
accepted the command of the same vessel under
the Hawaiian flag. He has been long resident
at these islands, and has held his present post
with credit for many years — it is true that he is
rather partial to cordials ; but this has ever been
the failing of sailors since the days of Noah, and
will in all probability remain so, until Tempe-
rance Societies have realized their fullest expec-
tations.

Americans, led hither by commercial or reli-
gious objects, form by far the largest and most
influential party among the foreign residents.
The natives appear to view the increasing num-
ber of foreign settlers with some jealousy, and en-
deavour to restrain their influence by legal enact-
ments, which are sufficiently indicative of a cau-
tious policy : permission to reside on the island is
not denied them, but the government sturdily re-
fuses, and strictly prohibits, the grant or sale of
freehold land to aliens ; and will offer no gua-
rantee that the settler shall retain his improved
lands, or against his being sent abruptly out of
the country at the option of the chiefs.

Until I’ecently, the oldest foreign resident
at the Sandwich Islands was Mr. John Young,
the Patriarch of Hawaii, w ho died in December,

1 835, at the age of 02 years, 4S of which had

MINING, FATHER OF THE FOREIGNERS. 239

been spent at these islands. He was an English-
man by birth, and in early life a sailor. His resi-
dence here was at first compulsory, and arose
from an attempt made by the natives to seize
his ship, the Eleanor, while he was on shore at
Hawaii. The islanders did not succeed in cap-
turing the vessel ; but they detained Young,
and compelled him to remain amongst them.
They treated him kindly, and he waS: subse-
quently high in favour with Tamehameha, who
appointed him to sevei’al responsible offices. He
espoused a chiefess, by whom he has had several
children, who are now of adult age and re-
spectably settled on the different islands. The
usual residence of Mr. Young was at Waiakea
Bay, Hawaii, where he held, under the king, tin;
government of a district ; but when we visited
Oahu he was residing at that island with some
members of his family. Though suffering from
the infinnities of age, he was cheerful and com-
municative, and had a venerable but healthful
appearance. The intelligence and good offices
of this worthy old man had ever caused him to
be mentioned with respect and esteem by modern
voyagers to these islands.

By the death of Mr. Young, a Spaniard,
named Minini, has gained the title of “ Father
of the Foreigners.” He has resided at Oahu
for many years, and is now in a green old age.

240 HALF-CASTES. — ISAAC DAVIES.

robust, healthy, and in comfortable circum-
stances. He has been indefatigable in intro-
ducing horticultural and pastoral improvements
to the island ; and whilst his industry has been
beneficial to himself, it has also tended to ac^
quaint the world with what the soil of this
country can produce. He possesses the only
spot of land deserving the name of a garden
upon the island. Neither has Minini failed to
cultivate the population of Oahu ; by four suc-
cessive pative wives he boasts the paternity of
thirty-seven children. One of his sons, a fine,
enterprising young man, perished, together with
a party of Sandwich Islanders, in a rash attempt
to subject the natives "^of Wallis Island, or
“ Island of Handsome People” — an event which
is supposed to have occasioned the subsequent
massacre of the crew of the South-Seaman Old-
ham by the natives of the latter island.

Frequent intermarriages of the white residents
with native females have given to this Archipe-
lago a numerous class of half-caste inhabitants,
which may be exjiected to take hereafter a promi-
nent position amongst the natives. They are a
fine race of peo])le, j)ossessing more than their
share of European features and dis])osition.
Some few of them are the descendants of Isaac
Davies, a Welchman, who died in this countiy,
where he had x'esided for a great number of years.

NATIVE PIRACIES.

241

His arrival was nearly cotemporary with that of
Mr. Young, hut was attended with a more tragic
event. The schooner Fair American, of which
Davies was the mate, while lying becalmed off
the island of Hawaii, was boarded and plundered
by the natives, and all her crew massacred, with
the exception of this man, who was preserved
and treated with kindness by the islanders.
Tamehameha denied any partieipation in these
several acts of outrage against foreign vessels ;
although the objec-t in plundering the shipk,
namely, to obtain munitions of war, when viewed
in connection with the thirst for cohquest that
monarch ever evinced, leaves his perfect inno-
cence somewhat questionable.*

We found a few Japanese staying at Oahu :
they had formed the (;rew of a Jajianese junk

* .It is well known Unit Tanieliamelni was not a very
eonscientious monarch, and did not hesitate to employ
his chiefs to .-teal from foreign vessels those valuables he
could not otherwise obtain. One of his emissaries was
detected in the act of stealing a telescope from a ship, on
board of which Tamehameha was dining. The captain
readily obtained permission from his royal guest to flog the
culprit, when the latter, lindiiig the discharge of his duty
likely to be attended by unpleasant consequences, con-
fessed that he had been mnployed by his sovereign to
commit the offence for which he was to be punished.
Tamehameha, nothing al»ashed at this exposure, remarked

,VOL. I.

R

242

JAPANESE JUNKS.

which, a few weeks before our arrival, had been
seen in distress oif the island and brought into
port. They were, when discovered, much ex-
hajisted by privations ; and from the account
they gave, it would appear that they had been for
more than nine months drifting on the ocean as
the sport of the winds, and for part of the pe-
riod had suffert'd much from cold. In all pro-
bability, they had been driven off the coast
of Japan by stoong westerly gales, and carried
to"* the N. E., until they met with northerly
winds which drove their vessel to the Sandwich
Islands. South-Seamen, when cruising in the
North Pacific, have occasionally fallen in with
Japanese junks, driving about the ocean in this
distressed state. Captain C'ook also mentions
having seen a junk of the same nation on shore
on the N. W. coast of America. The Ja])anese
thus cast upon Oahu were hos])itably entertained,
and ultimately put on boai'd a whale-shi]), which
would restore them to their native land.

The Sandwich Islanders appear, on the whole,
to be a vei’y healthy race, 'riieir indigenous dis-
eases are few, and much less severe than those
that afflict the natives of the Society group.

to his victim, wifh flic philosophy of a Lycurgus, “ it is
true that [ onlcrcd you to steal the i^Iass, hut I did not
tell you to he discovered, and expose yourself to punish-
ment;” and with this ( onfirmed the previous sentence.

DISEASES OF THE ISLANDERS.

24:i

Diseases of the skin are rather prevalent amongst
them ; especially one form, named jmpu by the
natives, and considered as a variety of the itch
by Europeans — its contagious character, how-
ever, may be very fairly questioned. It occurs
as a vesicular and very prurient eruption ;
and, in its worst form, is followed by ul(;ers
which are very difficult to heal. It is analogous
to the tnna of the Society, and other Polynesian
islands, and may be regarded as a kind of
Eczema, and jirobably the E. solace of Ray6r,
aggravated by constitutional causes. Syphi-
litic are the only exotic diseases. Locked jaw,
and other forms of tetanm occasionally occur ;
but notwithstanding the number of dogs infest-
ing the villages, no instance of hydrophobia has
yet been afforded at these, or at any other of the
Polynesian islands we visited.

Some few of the natives, professing a know-
ledge of the healing art, ])ractise as ])hysicians
to their countrymen, with whom they are often
in high repute. The medicines they employ
arc derived from indigenous plants, as the roots
of \\\o tvaroa ; flValtheria Americana ;) flowers
of the Argemone Mexicana, car. ; seeds of the
Dolichos galeatus, &c. For diseases of the
viscera they employ an infusion of the herb
moa, (Psilotam tr iqnctrum,) six or eight ounces

244

NATIVE REMEDIES.

of the aqueous infusion being administered as a
dose. As a remedy for some cutaneous com-
plaints, they give an infusion of the root of the
kava, (Piper methisticum,) persevering in its use
(the quantity being gradually increased) until
the drug produces its own peculiar scaly eruption
on the skin ; when the dose of the infusion
being diminished as gradually as it was before
augmented, the kava eruption fades, and with it
the original’ disease, vvhich the new action thus
set up in the skin has tended to cure. As an
apj)Iication to unhealtliy uha'rs they use the
milky juice expressed from the otoio, a species
of Enphorhia.

Rheumatism and some other painful affec-
tions are treated by the rnme, or rubbing and
kneading the affected i)art in a manner similar
to shampooing. ^Vhen dexterously performed
this operation is agreeable ; and is so often en-
joyed as a luxury by the chiefs (especially when
they are oppressed by their gluttonous meals,)
that expertness in its performance is an indis-
pensable qualification in their personal at-
tendants. The internal remedies used by the
native physicians are violent in their effects, and
are administered in such intrepid doses as not
uncommonly to endanger life. The same deci-
sive measures, however, often lead to favourable
results, and enable the native to cure dis(’ases

PHYSICAL EFFECTS OF CIVILIZATION. 245

which baffle the skill of the European prac-
titioner.

About the year 1822, the population of Oahu
was determined at 20,000 ; but a recent census
proves, that at this, as at other islands of the
group, the number of native inhabitiints la-
mentably decreases — an effect tliat is com-
monly attributed to the advance of civilization,
but which may, with some justice, be assigned
to other causes, and amongst them to* that covert
mode of practising infanticide which I hgve
already notiijcd as occurring amongst the Society
Island females ; and which here obtains to a
much greater, and almost fashionable, extent.
A second cause, also, which ajiplies to the island
of Oahu, is a novel and anomalous I'pidemii'.
disease, of a very fatal charact<“r, that attacks
breeding waimen, both native* and half-caste, and
strikes at the root of popvdation by destroying
both parent and offspring. Objections raised
against civilization, as impairing the physical
condition of this people, can only apply to the
adoption of foreign vices. The ordinary and
steady habits of Europeans are evidently in
favour of the health of Polynesian natives ; par-
ticularly as regards comfort in dwellings and
clothing, as well as in the adoption of a more
animalized diet. Few of the South Sea Islanders
have a more healthy or robust appearance than

246

THE POE DOG.

those eniixloyed as sailors in foreign ships, or
as servants to European residents ; while the
most formidable diseases, of a serophulous
type, or arising from trivial abuses, prevail
chiefly ^.mong the people living in the primitive
mode, in damp districts, and subsisting almost
entirely on fegetabk s.

The elimate of the Sandwich Islands is as
agreeable as can well be imagined, and appears
highly congenial to European constitutions.
Situated within the limits of the N. E. perennial
winds, a luxurious breeze passes incessantly over
the soil, imparting an agreeable temperature
little to be expected in a countiy exjjosf'd twice
annually to a vertic^al sun. While we remained
at Oahu, in the months of May and October,
the thermometer in the shade I’anged from yo"
to 8.i“. Some meteorological observations made
at these islands by the American missionaries
inform us, that, daring one year, the thermome-
ter in the sliade imirked from (JO” to 8H” — tlie
mean tempei’ature being 7a”.

The indigenousandexotic (piadrupeds resemble
those at the Society group. The aboriginal, or
])oe dog, (diaracterised by its small size, brown
colour, foxy head, long back, crooked or band\
fore-legs, and sluggish disposition, is now a rare,
and will probably be soon an extinct s])eci(’S
— lost amidst a mongrel race of dogs partaking

KXOTIC CATTLE.

247

of every foreign variety. All classes of canines
arc favourites with the natives, who never kill
them wantonly or treat them cruelly. They
subsist, like their owners, chiefly on vegetables.*
The aboriginal dog is still eonsidered a, delicate
food, even by the chiefs highest in rank and
most civilized in their habits. Europeans who
have sufficiently overcome their prejudice to in-
dulge in this native luxury, assured me that the
flesh of the poti dog, cooked in the primitive
manner, bears a close resemblance to lamb,
and is consequently a dish that few who have
tasted would despise.

The oxen originally introduced at Hawaii by
tlaj)tain Vancouver were at first rather tolerated
than encouraged by the natives ; and to the
present time have been permitted to run wild
in the vast uncultivated plains of that island.
The example of Europeans, however, has since
(caused this useful animal to be distributed over

* Instances of' tJiis exlraonJinury adaptation of domes-
ticated animals to the antipodtvs of tlieir natural food arc
afl'orded us by many remarkable facts. Horses, in Canada,
are fed largely upon fish ; and goats, when kept on l)oard
ships, early acquire carnivorous, and indeed omnivorous
appetites. In Bengal, the natives, who live chiefly on
vegetables, accustom tlie most carnivorous animals they
lame to a diet of rice and l)ananas.

248

SHEEP.

most of the islands of the group, where the)' are
kept in a state of domestication, and their breed
improved by occasional importations from South
America. They multiply rapidly and demand
very little care. The cows are quiet at the pail,
and yield an abundance of milk, applicable to
all the purposes of the dairy. We were no less
surprised than delighted to find on the table of
the British Consul, at Oahu, not only excellent
butter but also clotted cream, prepared from
the milk of his herds, and equal in quality to
that produced from the richest pastures in De-
vonshire. A few of the oxen are trained to the
yoke, and employed in drawing carts on the
roads of lionoruru ; but the majority, branded
with their owner’s mark, range the country in a
half-wild state until required for slaughter,
when they are pursued by the bullock-catcher,
mounted on his active well-trained horse, and
secured by the lasso, or noose and thong cast
over their horns, in the South Americiin mode.
Beef may be obtained at Honoruru at nearly tin*
same price, and of much the same quality, as at
the port of Tahiti.

Sheep, of the browm-wooled Californian breed,
introduced at Oahu, are neither numerous nor in
a thriving condition; the pasturage of the soil,
though well adapted for horses and oxen, affords.

INDIGENOUS BIRDS.

249

none of that short sweet herbage so essential to
the welfare of flocks. Goats, introduced to
these islands by early European navigators, are
now numerous, and their flesh, which is fat and
well-flavoured, is commonly employed by fo-
reigners in this country as a substitute for
mutton. A milch goat and kid may be pur-
chased at Honoruru for a dollar- and-a-half.
Swine are less numerous, and are consequently
dearer, than at the Society Islands, owing to the
deficiency of spontaneous food, as well as to
the greater demands of shipping — a remark
which also applies to the indigenous domestic
fowl. Moscovy ducks, and turkeys, though but
recently introduced, have multiplied rapidly,
and are now commonly sold in the market at a
reasonable, but not a chea]) price.

Wild land birds are seldom seen in the vici-
nity of the coast ; but are more numerous in
the inland and sequestered woods, whither they
have been driven by the persecution of the na-
tives. Those most conspicuous for beauty are
th(5 Certkia sangtihiea, or crimson creeper, with
scarlet plumage and black feathei's in the tail
and wings ; and C. peregrinu, the olive-green
creeper ; * a small and mountain species of ])a-

* It is probable that these two birds are ot the same
species; since it often occurs that when a male bird Jias a
scarlet, the female has a green garment.

250

FEATHER CURRENCY.

roquet, of a rich purple colour; and a bird
named mo/io by the natives, its plumage black,
with long yellow feathers beneath the wings and
on the vent. The feathers of these birds, and
more particularly the yellow plumage of the
kind last mentioned, continue to be highly
esteemed by the natives for personal ornaments.
Their real value has also led to their employ-
ment as a currency in the domestic ti’affic of this
people, the feathers being fastened together in
small bunches, the marketable value of which is
determined by the number or worth of the
])lumes they contain. The taxes levied by the
chiefs upon their people are often paid in this
form. When a native has, by any means, col-
lc(!tcd a sufficient amount of such feathers, he
j)re])ares from them a lai.s, or head-dress, for
some female member of his family. When of
superior size or beauty, a feather ornament of
this description will bear amongst the islanders a
modern value of from sixty to a hundred dollars.

One s])ccies of owl, and a rail, (Rallif.s
ecaudaUis,) are found here ; as well as wild
ducks and plovers, which arrive at this island
during the month of October or November,
and in due season migrate to other, and
probably very distant lands. In size and plumage
these wild ducks resemble the common teal of

FISH. — THE SHIF-BOUER.

Fiurope. Many of them are shot by the native
peasantry and sold in the town at about one
shilling the couple. The plovers are the Chu-
radrius hiuticula, and a species apparently iden-
tical with the golden plover of England. The
Sandwich Island goose (Bernicla Sandvicerisis,
Vigors .J is a large and rather handsome bird, pe-
culiar to this group, where it inhabits the inland
and mountainous parts of the larger islands.
The species has been recently described from a
living pair of these birds sent to England by the
late enterprising traveller, Mr. D. Douglas, and
presented, by Lady Glcngall, to the London
Zoological So(uety. The only reptiles on this
archipelago are lizards.

The tishes on the coast, and which we did
not notic(; at the So(;iety Islands, are a gar-fish,
with bones of the same green hue which ob-
tains in the skeleton of the gar-pike (Esox be-
lone) of the British seas ; large and hideous eels,
(Gi/mnot/iorax,) spotted black and white ; and
some species of irigla, of eccentric forms, 'riie
crab tribes are numerous on the reefs, but usu-
ally afford only small examples. One kind,
however, is a large and edible cray-fish, adorned
with very brilliant colours, amongst which red,
white, and blue, predominate. The Teredo na-
vnlix, or ship-borer, called, par exctdlcnce, “ the

232

INSECTS.

worm/’ by sailors, infests the coast of Oahu in
sufficient numbers to do serious injury to a boat
left but for a single night exposed to their
attacks. On board a ship at anchor in Hono-
ruru harbour, it is usual to hear, during a tran-
quil night, a constant succession of sounds re-
sembling the scratching of a pin on paper, and
resulting from the endeavours of these worms to
perforate the planks of the vessel, though their
attempt be opposed by a sheathing of copper.

Insects are not more numerous here than at
the Society Islands ; they present, also, nearly
the same genera, and are equally remarkal)le
for the apparent addition of many exotic kinds
to those few which were found on the soil by our
navigators when this archipelago was tirst dis-
covered. Together with some smaller buttertlies,
we find at Oahu a closely resembling

the r, atalanta of Europe ; as well as a second
species, differing in no appreeia]>lc respect from

* Ships are, douhtless, the active, though inviilunhuy
agents in clisserninatiiig insects over remote regions of the
globe. ^\fter we had been at sea for several weeks, or
even montlis, it was not uneoinnion to find on board the
Tuscan many kinds of land-insects in a living stale, from
the hardy beetle to the delicate and more ephemeral bu(-
terily, whose germs ha<l probably ])een received on hoard
together with supplies of fruit and vegetables.

A NATIVE ENTOMOLOGIST.

253

V. cardui ; and as the habitat of the latter
insect is the thistle in the northern parts of the
globe, so here the analogous species resorts to
the prickly foliage of the Argemone Me.iicana. A
hawk-moth, (Sphinx pun gens.) similar to that
inhabiting the Society Islands, is very common
on the pastures in the vicinity of the coast. Its
larva is large, of a green colour with longitudi-
nal and oblique lilac bands on the sides, and
has the characteristic horn on the back. The
habits of the perfect insect are similar to those
of the humming-bird hawk-moth, Sphinx macro-
glossum. It flies by day, and appears to seek the
warmth and brightness of the noontide sun ; and
flitting from flowt'r to flower, on wliich it seldom
alights, it drains the nectar from the blossoms
with its proboscis as it floats in the air with a ra-
pid, vibratory motion of the wings. On one occa-
sion, when I was endeavouring to capture this
eocpieting insect, a native came to my assist-
ance and uiuh'rtook the task in his own way ;
gathering two of the elegant blue convolvulus
flowers around which the moth had been flutter-
ing, and holding one in each hand in an inviting
position, he cautiously approached or followed
the insect to tiunpt it within his reach. The
active but stealthy movements of the young and
scantily-clad islander, as he pursued his shy

1 N DI G K N Oils V EGKT AT ION.

2:'}4

game over the plains ; the seducing attitudes he
assumed, and the insinuating manner in which he
presented the flowers to the moth when oppor-
tunities offered, afforded a very ludicrous scene.
Although the exertions of my entomological
friend were at this time fruitless, I have often
seen the plan he adopted successfully employed
by other natives ; the hawk-moth, approaching
the proffered blossoms, protrudes its long pro-
boscis, which is seized witli the fingers and the
creature secured.

The insects we noticed here, though not at
any of the other Polynesian Islands we visited,
were large tarantula spiders, (Lyeosa HpJ tin*
millipede or wood-louse, (Onisciin aselln.t,) and
centipedes, eight or ten inches long, their (;olour
brown-yellow, the sides and abdomen blue. The
luminous centipede (Scolopetidra eli’ctriai) is also
found in the houses at Honoruru, emitting its
characteristic phos])horescent light, and leaving
behind it a trail of luminous matter.

The indigenous vegetation of the Sandwich
Islands presents but little of an intertro])ical
character : plantations of l.ananas and sugar-
cane are not numerous, and cocoa-nut ))alms,
so abundant in the islands of the South Pacific,
are hei’e limited to a few groves in the close vi-
<'inity of the sea ; their fruit, also, is small, and

USEFUL EXOTIC PLANTS. 2r»5

sold at a very high price. The exotic vegetables,
now cultivated at Oahu, are most of those com-
mon in English kitchen-gardens, as well as to-
matas, garavances, chillies, American squash,
(Ciicurhita melopepo,) musk-melons, water-
melons, and pumpkins. Oranges are scarce,
and chiefly imported from the island of Tauai,
where that fruit is produced in greater abund-
ance. The guava-shrub thrives well on this
soil, but is not intdined to propagate with the
same celerity as at the Society group. Its fruit
is never eat(m by these islanders, as they have
a great aversion to its odour. Pine-apples grow
wild on the soil. The eatable berries of the
j)assion-flower, { Pass'ijiom edulis.) papaws,
citrons, custard-apples, co(uu), (Theohroma
cacao,) grapes, tigs, and pri(;kly pears, are pro-
duced in the gardens of foreign residents.

Tobacco lias been grown by the natives in
gi’cat perfection, and exported by them to the
N. W. coast of America ; but its cultivation has
been checked, if not suppressed, by the ill-judged
opposition of the, missionaries. Several exotic
kinds of the cotton-shrub (pain, or soft, of tbe
natives,) gi'ow wild on the plains, and include
that rare species, the yellow, or nankin-cotton,
(Gossppium religiosum,) called by the natives
mnrou : with a little cultivation, the wool of

COFFEE. — GRAIN.

their pods might be rendered very valuable
to commerce, but is at present totally ne-
glected. Attempts have been recently made to
cultivate coffee, indigo, and opium ; we were
shown some samples of coffee, grown in the
valleys above Honomru, which would justify the
opinion that coffee plantations would succeed
well on this island, if requisite attention was
paid to them. Wheat, barley, and rice, have
been grown, by way of experiment, and proved
satisfactory ; but the only grain at all generally
cultivated is the maize, or Indian corn, sOrae of
which has been exported to our settlement at
Columbia River. Foreign ornamental plants
have been hitherto but scantily introduced.
Those the most generally diffused are Poinciana
jmlcherrima, ^limosa f/lomerata, and IMirabilis
Jalapa, or marvel of Peru. Here also, as at
Tahiti, Cleome .sp'itiosd grows abundantly on
waste lands, as a naturalized exotic.

CRUISK TO THE NORTHWARD.

257

CHAl'TER TX.

Departure from Oahu — Crube to the northward —
Edects of a current — Capture Sp^rm Wliailes — Non-
descript oceanic l)irds — Curious illustration of an orni-
thological fact — Speak an American South Seaman —
Arrival off Queen Charlotte’s Islands — Return to the
southward — Health of the crew — Whaling operations —
Albacore — Elying-s([uid — Floating oceanic shells —
Panic amongst the albacore assembled near the ship —
7’he Sword-fish — Extraordinary accident to the South
Seaman Foxhound — Return to the Sandwich Islands —
Visit Maui — Ceneral description of the island and its
inhabitants — Second visit to Oahu — Revolt of the chiefs
against the crown — Visit of II. B. M. S. Challenger —
Execution of two natives for the murder of a British
subject — Death of Mr. David ^Douglas, the enter-
prising traveller — Departure. — Description of three
Marquesans, natives of Roapoa — Island of Guadaloupe
• — Arrival off Cape St. Lu<*as — Remarkable pheno-
menon of a luminous sea — Whaling operations — Cap-
ture a pelican — Duncan's Island — Animated pursuit
of Sperm Whales — Arrival at Santa (diristina, Marque-
sas groii[).

We left tlie Sandwich Islands on the 22nd of
May, and continued our cruise to the N. E. As
early as in lat. 28® N. although the weather
was temperate, mollymaux, pios, and other birds
, VOL. I. s

258

CAPTURE TWO WHALES.

of the inclement latitudes came about the ship ;
but the wandering albatross did not make its
appearance until we had attained the latitude of
40“ N. Beyond the latter parallel, squalls,
bearing dense fogs, became extremely nume-
rous and troublesome, and showers of small rain
fell with much regularity as each evening ap-
proached.

In lat. 40“ N., long. 142“ W., calms or light
airs prevailed, whilst a current, setting strongly
to the southward, covered the sea with extensive
fields of the SaUy-man ; (Velella miitica, Lam.
with a species of medusa, of pink colour anS
shaped as a bag, its orifice surrounded by a row
of small circular spots which were highly lumi-
nous; and with vast quantities of the brown
feathers of some sea-bird. The greater number
of the latter were coated with barnacles in every
stage of growth, from the speckled and jelly-
like surface of ova to the mature shell-fish.
Sperm Whales were also seen at the same time,
journeying slowly to the S. W. ; and our boats
succeeded in killing two individuals, each of
which afforded fifty barrels of oil. The re-
mainder of the herd (which was small, and en-
tirely composed of young males,) took to flight
when their companions were harpooned, and baf-
fled all further pursuit, although their spouting

DANGEROUS ACCIDENT.

259

was visible in the horizon until the close of
day.

Both the Cachalots brought to the ship dif-
fered from the usual appearance of that ceta-
cean in having their skin covered with a yellow
or brass-coloured incrustation, which was soon
washed off, however, by the heating of the sea,
and which was considered an indication that
these individuals had lately lived indolent lives,
or had roamed butlittle through the ocean. While
the head (junk and case) of one of the whales
was being received on l)oard, it suddenly fell,
O^ing to some defect in the suspending tackle,
and at each lurch of the ship traversed the deck
in a terrific manner, until, settling for a moment
at the lee bulwark, it was secured, without having
done further mischief than crushing a strong
bucket as if it had been a nut shell, and de-
stroying a luckless pig, en passant.

While thus engaged, the ship was surrounded
by myriads of oceanic birds ; some of which
were mollymaux, but the majority was com-
posed of a kind not described by our ornitholo-
gists : it is rather larger than the mollymaux ;
its plumage dull-brown ; (the crown of the head
being whiter than other parts ;) the beak and
legs yellow-white. They swam close to the ship,
uttering a whistling not(', or screaming as they

260 CURIOUS ORNITHOLOGICAL FACT.

quarreled for the offal of the whales, and per-
mitted themselves to be taken in great numbers,
by hook and line. Another bird, which we
noticed at the same time, is a nondescript,
but nearest allied to the albatross family. It is the
size of the lesser albatross ; its plumage uni-
formly deep black ; its beak and legs white. The
example we obtained was shot in the wing and
brought on board alive, fighting savagely with
its beak and feet. With a view to preserving
its plumage uninjured, I endeavoured to destroy
the bird by compressing its windpipe, but found
that, as the breathing became laborious, a loud
whistling sound was emitted from some part
of the body, and upon close investigation traced
it to the bone (humerus) of the wing, which
was fractured aciross, projected through the
skin, and admitted within its tube a forcible
current of air, whenever the lungs made an effort
at respiration : the bird was in fact breathing
through its broken wing ; and so sufficient was the
supply of air the lungs received through this novel
(diannel that T was wearied by my attempts to
suffocate my prize, and was compelled to destroy
it in another manner. The free communication
which exists between the air-cells of the lungs
and the cavities of the bones, in birds, offers an
easy elucidation of this phenomenon, although

A STRANGE VISITER.

261

such an application of the economy must be re-
garded as singular.

On the night of the 24th of June, a strange
sail was seen in the N. E. Her deck, illuminated
by the flames of her “try-works,’' denoted a
South-Seaman which had lately been successful,
and was engaged in preparing her oil. The
next day we spoke the Thomas Williams, Ame-
rican whaler, when the usual interchange of
visits passed between the crews of the respective
ships. Fortune sent us as a guest the chief
mate of the stranger, a rough, athletic son of
Columbia, who informed us at once that he
was a Nantucket man, and one of the nautical
family of Swains ; that his captain and he had
made many dollars on the Sj^anish Main, “ by
selling, scraping together, calculating, and one
thing or another.” It was his opinion, that sperm
whales were “ as scarce as hen’s teeth,” and that
the charge of killing them should not be en-
trusted to young hands ; but, for his part, if he
could not “ murder a whale” in an incredibly
short time, he would “ eat a goat with the hair
on.” He had suffered much from sickness, and
should have certainly died, had he not been “ as
tough as a pitch-pine knot while “ slim,”
“spry,” “right away,” “I swear,” and Other
little nationalities, gave a pleiisant piquancy to

262

RETURN TO THE SOUTHWARD,

his plain but shrewd discourse. As night ap-
proached, the visiters returned to their respec-
tive ships, which then parted company on oppo-
site courses, our route being continued to the
northward.

July 7. — We were olF Cape St. James, Queen
Charlotte’s Islands, in lat 50° N., long. 1 33° W.,
the sea presenting a green appearance, with
much drift wood. The instructions of the
owners (wliich directed us to cruise as fer as 55°
N. lat.) had been thus far fulfilled ; and we had
advanced sufficiently to the north to experience
its disadvantages, without any comp(‘nsating ap-
pearances of the object of our pursuit, though
the smaller cetaceans were ohsen^ed in great
numbers. The sentiments of the crew, also,
being averse to converting a southern into a
northern whale fishery — the inclemency of the
weather leading to the conclusion that the pecu-
liar operations of southern whaling could
scarcely be conducted in a more northern lati-
*tude, being barely practicable in this — Captain
Stavers determined upon returning to a more
eligilde region, and the ship was ac(!ordingly
headed to the southward.

The abrupt transition from an intertropical.
to a high north latitude, had produced a marked
effect upon the lu*alth of our cnnv, the number

HEALTH OF THE CREW. 263

of sick being greater than at any former period
of the voyage. The sudden check to a free
perspiration, (and, probably, the indulgence of
an inordinate appetite, which ever attends the
stimulus of a cold temperature, but more espe-
cially so at sea,) occasioned a plethoric state of
the system, which seized every trivial cause to
expend • itself in inflammation and its conse-
quences. Chronic or mild diseases became
acute or aggravated; inflammatory sores were
quick in forming and slow to heal ; and glan-
dular affections were numerous. But the most
general and salutary complaint was a profuse
eruption on the skin of minute vesicles, attended
with intense tingling or itching upon exposing
the pc'rson to cold, as in the “ prickly heat
{Lichen tropicus;) and so closely do extremes
meet, that the latter eruption, so annoying to
Europeans suddenly entering a tropical climate,
is often, as on this occasion, experienced in a
more severe and intractable foi’m when the
same persons pass abruptly from a sultry to a,
cold temperature.

July 23. — In lat. SI® N., long. 153" W., flying
fish (those trusty harbingers of a warm cli-
mate) were, again visible ; and the sea was
covered with a profusion of the Velella, or Sally -
man. On the same day, a solitary Sperm Whale

264 ENCOUNTER SPERM WHALES,

was seen and pursued by our boats, but with-
out success.

On the 25th many Cachalots were observed ;
but they were moving' so rapidly to windward
that the boats were unable to approach them ;
and on the succeeding day our whaling affairs
assumed a yet more vexatious aspect. Two
whales were then harpooned in the mitlst of a
school. One of the “ fast ” boats, while en-
gaged in securing its victim, was struck so
severely by the flukes of a loose whale, that
the officer who headed the boat, and his
harpooner, were cast into the sea The
rest of the crew had the presence of mind
to cut the line, that they might assist their
swimming companions, and the harpooned
cachalot escaped ; while the boat, too much
injured to be any longer serviceable, w'as
brought to the ship. The second harpooned
whale, after “ sounding ” to the depth of a tub-
and-a-half of line, again rose to the surface of
the water, and set off wildly to windward, turn-
ing frequently in her course ; and although
three boats were ultimately fast to her, lancing
whenever an opportunity offered, she was not
subdued on the approach of night, when the boats
were compelled to cut their lines and return to
the ship.

AND MEET WITH DISASTERS.

265

These whales were observed to be pecu-
liarly alive to the movements of their pur-
suers *, and were occasionally seen at a consi-
derable distance beneath the surface of the
water, turned on their side, and gazing up at
the boats, in a manner which expressed an
equal share of curiosity and suspicion.

Early in the morning of the 28th, we had
Sperm Whales again in sight, and several large
schools were noticed during the day. They
were, however, equally wary with those we had
before seen, and it was not until late in the
afternoon that they could be favourably ap-
proached, when each boat harpooned a whale.
Three of the boats secured their prizes speedily
and without accident ; but the fourth had en-
countered a mischievous, or “ fighting ” whale
of the most dangerous character. This Cacha-
lot, which was a young male, had been pierced
with tw^o well-planted harpoons ; but instead of
flying from his enemies he rather sought to
attack them, whenever they approached him for
the purpose of lancing. His first effort was to
rush against the boat with his head. Baffled
in this, by the crew steering clear of the con-
tact, he next attempted to crush it with his
jaws ; when, failing through the unaccommo-
dating position of his mouth, he remedied this

266

A BOAT WRECKED.

defect, with much sagacity, in his last and more
successful assault : approaching’ impetuously
from a distance of about forty yards, he turned
upon his back, raising his lower jaw to grasp the
boat from above ; a lance-wound, however,
caused him to close his mouth and resume a
natural posture before he had attained his ob-
ject ; but, continuing to advance, he struck the
boat with a force that nearly overturned it, and
concluded by again turning on his back, and
thrusting his lower jaw through the planks.
The boat filled with water almost immediately,
sunk with its gunnel to the level of the sea, and
was rendered capable of retaining its crew, only
l)y the expedient of lashing the oars across its
sides. The harpoon-line was cut, and the
whale made off without doing further mischief.
The wrecked boat, scarce perceptible above the
waves, crowded with a half-immersed crew, and
with two whifts flying as a signal of distress,
presented a truly forlorn a])j)earance. The shij),
and disengaged boats, bore down to its .assist-
ance ; and after rescuing the crew and stores,
took it on board to repair. The three (yachalots
secured to the ship were cows, or “ school-
whales ; ” and produced upwards of seventy-
seven barrels of oil.

On the 3d of August, S})erm Whales were

CAPTURE A LARGE WHALE. 267

again seen and pursued. Three of the boats
harpooned each a school-whale ; while the
fourth fastened to an adult bull, which, in
his flight, crossed the line fast to another
whale, and drawing the attached boat towards
him, struck it a blow with his flukes, and turned
it keel uppermost, casting the crew into the
sea, to swim for their lives or trust to the sup-
port the oars afforded them. The boat engaged
with the large whale cut its harpoon-line to ren-
der assistance ; but as the overturned boat had
sustained no serious injury, it was quickly righted
and emptied of water, when a very animated
chase of the large whale ensued, and which, for
some time, carried the boats out of sight from
the ship. By dint of superior speed, the boats
gained u])on the retreating Cachalot, secured
the cut line which trailed behind him, and mak-
ing fast to this, were enabled to approach, and
ultimately secured their prize. It was not until
10 p. m. that all the dead Cachalots were
brought to the ship ; thus concluding a day of
thorough hard whaling. Of the whales ob-
tained, one was of the largest class, namely, a
bull sixty feet in length, and estimated at eighty
barrels. The whole affair afforded us 116 bar-
rels of oil.

During the remainder of the season, w e were

268 ALBACORK— FLYING SQUID.

occupied in cruising over this tract of ocean,
so favoured as a resort of the cachalot, and
principally between the latitudes 28“ and 31"
N., and the longitudes 154“ and 160“ W. — a
space which appeared to form an angle between
two currents, the one setting to the N. W.,* the
other to the S. E.

The sea within these limits was peculiarly
animated. Albacore, of large size, constantly
attended us in such vast numbers that, when
swimming, as is their custom, on the surface of
the water, they could be seen as a dense shoal
extending several hundred yards on every side
of the ship. Any required number could be
immediately taken by hook and line ; and for
several months they supplied a daily and luxu-
rious addition to the diet of our crew. Sword-
fish (Xipkiasj came frequently about the shij),
making destructive onslaughts upon tlie shoals
of albacore. More rarely, we noticed the Bar-
racuda pike, and transient shoals of bonita.
Flying-fish, and (nearly allied to these in their
movements) flying-squid, {Loligo,) were also
numerous. During a calm, in lat. 30“ N., the

* 7'he eHccts of thi.s current were pereej)! ihle until IfJO”
W. long. Upon our passing further to the westward its
influonce was lost, and the sliip held her ground with

ease.

FLOATING SHELLS.

269

flying-squid appeared in larger flights than we
had ever before witnessed : persecuted, proba-
bly, by the albacore, (which select this tranquil
time to descend deep in the water, and to rove
far from the ship in quest of food,) they rose
from the sea in large flocks; leaping over its
smooth surface, much in the same manner, and
to the same height and distance, as the flying-
fish. Many of them were captured by birds
during their leaps ; and one individual, in mak-
ing a desperate effort to escape some aquatic
pursuer, sprang to a considerable height above
the bulwarks of the ship, and fell with violence
upon the deck. Floating oceanic shells, as Jan-
tliina, (yra^ilis and globosa species — the latter,
however, rare,) with much spawn adhering to
their seriferous floats ; the elegant vitreous shell
Cleodora, containing its luminous animal ; and
Uyalca tridentata ; as well as other molluscs,
such as V della, Porpita, Glaiicm, (or sea-
lizard,) Carwaria, of two species, and some
small kinds of Phpsulls, were numerous. Nor
were transparent gelatinous medus<e less abund-
ant ; especially that circular and very phos-
phorescent tribe, known to whalers by the name
of “ bright-eyes.”

Aug. 26, we spoke the American South-Sea-
man Pocahontas, homeward bound by way of

270 PANIC AMONGST THE ALBACORE,

Cape Horn. Three years and two months had
elapsed since this vessel left her port of Falmouth,
United States, and her appearance betrayed the
length of her voyage : the greatest part of her
copper was gone ; she was encumbered by bar-
nacles ; and long fringes of green weed streamed
from her bends. After an interchange of civi-
lities, and supplying her with some few neces-
saries she recpiired, we parted company.

On the following day, the albacore around the
ship afforded us an extraordinary spectacle :
they were eollected close to the keel of the ves-
sel in one dense mass of extraordinary depth
and breadth, and swam with an appearance of
trepidation and watchfulness. The cause of
this unusual commotion was visible in a sword-
fish,* lurking astern, awaiting a favourable op-

* Xiphius platypterus (Indian sword -fisli ?) This hsii
(which wc often noticed in tlic tropical regions of the l*a-
ci(ic) is about six feet in length. Its Itack is hrow'ti, and
the abdomen silver ; but when excited by the pursuit of
prey it displays a great variety, or play of lints, amongst
which a line blue, or striped colours predominate. The
dorsal and tail fins are conspicuous for size, and the
former usually betrays the presence of the lish by project-
ing above the surface of the sea. The sword-fish moves
in the prowling manner of the shark, but is much more
active, swims swiftly, and subsists by making rapid darts

THE S'WOED FISH.

271

portunity to rush upon his prey when they
should be unconscious of danger or away from
the protection of the ship. The assembled
albacore continued, in the mean time, to pass
under the keel of the vessel from one side to
the other, often turning simultaneously on their
side to look for the enemy ; their abdomens
glittering in the sun as a wide expanse of daz-
zling silver. It was evident that the sword-fish
desired but a clear field for his exertions ; and
in the course of the day we observed him make
several dashes amongst the shoal, with a velocity
which produced a loud rushing sound in the
sea; his body, which when tranquil was of a
dull brown colour, assuming, at these times, an
azure hue. It is, probably, as a precaution
against the attacks of this monster, that albacore,
and some other tropical shoal-fish, attach them-
selves to ships and large whales ; the close
vicinity of a large body, being sufficient to deter
the sword-fish from making his usual impetuous
thrusts amidst the shoal ; the which, when

amongst a shoal of small fish, and after transfixing as many
as possible on the beak, or sword, that projcets from its
snout, shaking them olf by a retrograde movement, or by
moving the sword violently from side to side, and devour-
ing them. I have seen a sword-fish thus strike and devour
three honita, in a very dexterous and rapid manner.

272 SHIPS PIERCED BY THE SWORD FISH.

rashly attempted, have given rise to the appear-
ance of the broken rostra of these fish impacted
in the planks of ships,* or carcases of whales, as
is not unfrequently noticed.

* A circumstiince of' this kind occurred to the Soutli-
Seaman P’oxliound, about the year 1817. Mr. Watson,
our first officer, who was serving on board that ship at the
time she was pierced, favoured me with the following par-
ticulars. At the time the accident happened no suspicion
was entertained of its nature : inostof tlie crew were below
at their dinner, wlicn a New Zealander, who was on deck,
heard a loud splashing in the water, and upon looking over
the ship's side, and seeing a large body sinking, spread
the alarm of a man overboard. On enquiry none of the crew
were missed, and the alarm subsided. Soon after, one of
the men, while ascending the rigging, saw a rugged mass
projecting from the ship's side, and reported it to his
officer. It proved, on examination, to be the beak of a
sword-fish, broken olffrom the animars head. It had pe-
mdrated completely through the copper and solid timbers
on the larboard bow of the ship, and was visilde for eight
or ten inches of its length within the hold, amongst some
coals. The broken extremity, exterior to the ship, was
sawn offi, and a plate of lead nailed over tin? spot. The
Foxhound touched, a few months after, at Sydney, New
South Wales, where the impacted weapon excited much
curiosity. All attempts to remove it were vain, and the
ship continued to cruise without inconvenience until the
completion of her voyage. On her return to England, and
when in dock, the sword was cut out, together with the
copper and wood around it, and is at pr<*sent in the posses-
sion of Mr. Birnie,the owner of the ship.

ISLA.ND OP MAOl.

‘273

Towards the end of September, the weather
of this region (which had hitherto been de-
lightfully serene) began to display indications
of the boisterous character it assumes during
the winter months ; and about the same time
we brought our “ Japan season ” to a close, and
made sail for the Sandwich Islands.

At daybreak on the 2d of October, tlve island
of Maui was seen in the distance ; and in the
course of the day we sailed down its N. E. side,
within twelve miles of the shore. From this
point of view, the largest diameter of the island
(namely, from N. E. to S. W., 48 miles,) was
visible in its entire e.xtent, rising from the
ocean as two penin.sulas of unequal size, con-
nected by an isthmus, eight or ten miles across,
but which is so low as to be scarcely perceptible
from the deck of a ship at the distance we
preserved * — a peculiarity that gives Maui a
close resemblance, in form, to the island of
Tahiti.

Sailing through a (ihannel which separates
this island from Morokai, and through a second,

♦ Tlie obscurity of this neck of land may easily lead a
confused commander to mistake it for the narrow channel
between the islands Morokai and Maui — an error which,
in fact, occasioned the loss of the Lyra, a fine American
South-Seaman.

’VOL. 1. T

274 MAUI BAY.-— COAST SCENERY.

scarcely ten miles broad, which separates it from
Ranai, we entered Maui Bay, and cast anchor
off the settlement of Lahaina. This harbour is
an extensive, and usually tranquil sheet of
water. Two projecting points of land give it
some title to the name of a bay, but it can be
regarded as little better than a roadstead. It is
exposed to westerly gales, that blow dead on the
land, and the anchorage it affords is rocky and
treacherous. A barrier coriil reef (limited to
this point of the coast) is raised at a short dis-
tance fi’ora the shore ; but the single aperture
it offers is not broader than will admit a boat,
and the water it protects is shallow.

This, the western side of Maui has a fertile
and picturesque appearance. Its back ground
is formed by majestic mountains, cleft from
summit to base into mural cliffs, clothed with an
abundant verdure. Within a short distance
from the sea-shore the land teems with vegeta-
tion ; plantations of bananas and sugar-cane
almost conceal the low dwellings of the natives ;
while tracts planted with musk- and water-
melons, sweet potatoes, or the arrow-leaved taro,
are watered by a few streams rushing impetu-
ously from the highlands. Groves of cocoa-nut
palms and bread-fruit (here few in numbei-, and
confined to the vicinity of the settlement) are

KOMANTIC INLAND SCENEKY. *275

only rivalled by the umbrageous ho tree,* planted
^noinmonly around the natives’ huts, and bearing
a profusion of bright-yellow blossoms.

Immediately behind the settlement and its
fertile lands, the scene changes to an arid moor,
some miles in extent, strewn with boulders of
black rock, and covered with a rank and parched
grass. The toil of (Tossing this dreary tract is
amply repaid, however, by tbe wild and beau-
tiful scenery found amidst the motintains of the
interior, as at Tauhiura, or the Pari. Here
broad and rocky ravines, well timbered, and
deeply excavated by the beds of occasional tor-
r•^nts, intersect the loftier hills, and terminate
in a narrow space divided between the jungle
and the stream. The viri xnri tree, (Erythrina
(•ornllodendrmn,) which at this season had shed
its deciduous leaves, alFords a conspicuous fea-
ture in th(“ landscape, stretching its crooked
limbs over the verge of the precipices. Nor
could the coral hue of its seeds, nor the large
clusters of crimson flowers which now loaded its
branches, give beauty to its leafless state ; but
rather conveyed an appearance of gaudy decay,
or the abortive attempt of age to assume, by
artifice, the attractions of youth. Groups of
small huts occur amidst these wild aeries,

(3ordia Selx'stena.

T 2

27 () SETTLEMENT AT LAUAINA.

wherever the soil can afford the residents a
crop of sweet potatoes, taro, or maize ; some
of these habitations, perched on elevated ledges
of rock, producing a very picturesque effect.
Several paths, also, conduct over the more
accessible mountains to villages largely popu-
lated and of great scenic beauty.

The town of Lahaina is the only port of Maui,
and in civilized improvements, as well as in
commercial importance, I'anks second to Hono-
ruru, at Oahu. It contains several houses built
of stone, and in the English style ; a fort, con-
structed of block coral, and possessing twenty
embrasures ; (but few of them occupied by can-
non, excepting on the side commanding the
harbour ;) a neat Christian church ; a reading-
room for the convenience of the masters of
foreign vessels ; (at whose ex])ense it was
erected ;) and a market, where the natives bring
daily the produce of their lands for traffic with
shipping.

The population of this island is esti-
mated by the resident mis.sionaries at 28 , 000 ;
of which but a veiy small proportion resides at
Lahaina. The natives are healthy, industrious,
and contented, to an extent we had not wit-
nessed amongst any other Polynesian islanders ;
they possess every essential comfort of life, and,

MISSIONARY LABOURS.

277

on the whole, present the pleasing picture of a
happy and prosperous people. The missionaries
have not been idle in educating these islanders
— on the contrary, they have endeavoured to
instruct them in the Greek language, and in
navigation. It was explained to me, that the
first-named acquirement was intended to enable
the people to study the roots of the Scriptures :
I ventured to propose the Hebrew tongue as a
preparatory training ; but at the same time had
my doubts, whether the natives would not dis-
cuss many roots ere they sought for those of
their new faith ; while I regretted that an ultra
spirit should so frequently intrude upon the
laudable tasks of utilitarians. Several small
publications, in the Hawaiian tongue, emanate
from the Missionary Press at Lahaina ; amongst
others, a newspaper, and a periodical in imita-
tion of the Penny Magazine of London.

Many South-Seamen visit this port to obtain
refreshments. Traffic with the islanders may
be conducted either in kind or with specie.
Supplies are abundant, with the exception of
water, which shipping cannot conveniently pro-
cure here, nor without an exorbitant charge
from the island authorities — an exception which
leads many commanders to give the preference
to the port of Oahu.

RETURN TO OAHU.

278

At noon on the 6th of October we left Mam,
and steered to the N. W. Early on the follow-
ing morning we were close to the South extre-
mity of Oahu ; and soon after cast anchor in ten
fathoms water outside the reef at Honoruru,
At daybreak on the 8th, Mr. Adams, the pilot,
came on board, to conduct the ship into the
harbour ; and at the same time, the wind being
light, several boats belonging to vessels in the
port came out to assist in towing us to the an-
chorage. The morning was serene ; and the
tranquillity which reigned over land and sea
was alone interrupted by the splashing of the
oai's of the boats towing ahead, the songs of
their crews, and the lashing of the surf on either
side of the ship, as she passed through the reef
aperture, and glided over smooth water, beneath
which extensive beds of coral wert* visible at the
depth of but a few fathoms.

The aspect of this port was but little altered
since our last visit ; and the same licence pre-
vailed amongst its inhabitants, owing to the
continued suspension of certain taboos. A short
time before our arrival, the conduct of the young
king had given offence to the church party
among his chiefs, and the latter had atteinptetl
to expel him from the island vi ct amiis.
Through the influence, however, of the foreign

VISIT OF THE CHALLENGER. 279

residents, (to whom Kauikeaouli applied for
support,) the object of this aristocratic revolu-
tion was not carried into effect, and the monarch
had been restored to his former privileges.

A warm sensation was also excited on this
island by the recent visit of H. B. M. ship Chal-
lenger, Captain Seymour, which had been dis-
patched from the South American station to in-
vestigate the question of some outrages com-
mitted upon British subjects by the natives of
Oahu. The presence of a ship-of-war, charged
with this dutVi had long been ardently desired
by the European residents at the Sandwich
group; many years having elapsed since any
similar notice had been taken of a countrj'^
where so mueh British property is exposed to
the caprice of a half-civilized government. The
business that chiefly demanded the attention of
Captain Seymour was the murder of an En-
glishman, named Carter, by a crew of Sandwich
Islanders which he had engaged to work his
schooner, the John Little. This circumstance
occurred three years previous to the arrival of
the Challenger, and had been followed by this
aggravation on the part of the Hawaiian govern-
ment, that after the Sandwich Islanders had de-
stroyed Captain Carter, by throwing him into
the sea, and burned his schooner off Fenning’s

280

EXECUTION OF TWO NATIVES.

Island, they returned to Oahu, where, although
the particulars of their crime became fully
known, they not only remained unpunished, but
received grants of land, and other favours from
the native authorities ; while the remonstrances
of the British Consul were unattended to, or
treated with contempt. By the exercise of mucli
firmness towards Kauikeaouli and his chiefs.
Captain Seymour obtained the .surrender of two
natives who were implicated in the above out-
rage, and who were then resident on the island.
These men were immediately tried for the
offence by the Hawaiian laws, found guilty,
and hanged on board the Nihn, a brig belonging
to Kauikeaouli, and then lying in Honoruru
harbour.

When at this island, in May, 1834, we had
the gratification of meeting Mr. David Douglas,
the traveller so favourably known to the world
for his many valuable contributions to the
natural sciences. He had been then engaged
in exploring some imperfectly known regions on
the N. W. coast of America, and had arrived at
the Sandwich Islands from the shores of C'o-
lumbia River. He had, more recently, made
some interesting researches at Hawaii, and had
succeeded in attaining the frozen summit of
Mouna Roa, the highest pinnacle of that loft}

MR. DOUGLAS’ ASCENT OF MOUNA ROA. 281

island. He determined the height of that moun-
tain to be 13,2.30 feet, and discovered at its
summit an active volcano, the crater of which
(inclusive of an extinct orifice,) is about twenty-
four miles in circumference. His colleetion of
fossils, obtained from the volcanic mountains of
Hawaii, was large and valuable. He informed
me, that he had found near the crater of Mouna
Roa a peculiar liquid, lodged in the hollows of
the i-ocks, but of which he was unable to bring
away an example, as it destroyed the glass ves-
sels he employed to contain it — a peculiarity
which would lead to the opinion that this fluid
was fluoric acid.* At this time, Mr. Douglas
was on the point of sailing for England ; but ex-
pressed to us his intention of again visiting Ha-
waii before his final departure from the Sand-
wich group.

On o\ir return from the Japan cruise, w'e were
shocked by the intelligence that this gentleman,
u])on his second visit to Hawaii, had met his
death in a manner as terrific as extraordinary.

* This appears to be a stranpje and almost questionable
assertion, but tVoiii tbe known veracity of Mr. Dougla.s [
cannot doubt the correctness of his description. I do not
iind, it is true, that he has men lion ed the circumstance
(although one so remarkable) in his scientific communica-
tions which have reached England. I mention ittliereforc
as he told it to me, that it might pro\r a hint for future
ti’avoller.s who may retrace his mountain path.

282 MR. DOUGLAS’ SECOND VISIT TO

He had left Oahu in the preceding July, in com-
pany with Mr. Deal, a clerical gentleman, who
was to proceed with him to the interior of
Hawaii. At Maui, where the travellers remained
for one day, circumstances arose which com-
pelled them to separate ; Mr. Deal proceeding
to Morokai, and Mr. Douglas to Hawaii, with an
understanding that they should again meet at
Waiakea, a port of the latter island. The small
vessel in which he sailed being unexpectedly de-
tained, Douglas landed at a district on the op-
posite side of the island to Waiakea, intending
to travel overland to the latter spot. When a
short distance on his way, he breakfasted at the
house of a white resident, from whom he re-
quested a guide. Some natives had just arrived
from Waiakea with a load of beef, but werc^ too
tired to return immediately ; and Mr. Douglas,
too impatient of delay to await their tardy attend-
ance, prosecuted his journey alone ; after re-
ceiving from his host some directions about the
road, and a caution against treading on the bull-
pits *, scattered over the plains.

* Pitfalls employed in capturing the wild oxen which
roam over the neglected parts of this country. The exca-
vation in the soil is usually ten or twelve feet deep, and t>f
considerable circumference ; its top is covered over with
brushwood, on which the cattle tread and fall into the
trap.

HAWAII, AND EXTRAORDINARY DEATH. 283

In the course of the same day, a party of na-
tives called at the house of the foreign resident
above mentioned, and expressed apprehensions
for the safety of his late guest ; as they had
seen the bundle with which he travelled, and his
dog, near some bull-pits, and an unusual ap-
pearance at the bottom of one of the traps, which
contained a live ox. The place described was
immediately visited, when it became but too
evident, that poor Douglas, upon arriving at a
spot where several bull-pits were placed close
together, had laid down his bundle near one of
them while he went to inspect the others.
While looking into a pit in which a bull had
been recently entra})ped, he appears to have
slipped from its brink and fallen upon the infu-
riated animal beneath, which had attacked him,
trampled him to death, and almost buried his
body in the soft earth of the pit. The bull was
shot, and the body of the unfortunate traveller
extricated, but life had been extinct for many
hours. The corpse was conveyed to Oahu,
where it arrived in August, 1834 ; and after
being submitted to a medical inspection, was
buried in the grave-yard at Honoruru. The
property of the deceased was found secure, even
to money on his person ; and a strict investiga-
tion only tended to confirm the opinion, that

284 EMBARK THREE MARQUESANS ;

his death had occurred in the manner above

stated.

In the July preceding our present visit, three
sUght shocks of an earthquake had been felt at
Oahu, as well as at Maui and Hawaii, from
which last island they had in all probability
originated^

On the 20th of October we made sail from
Oahu and steered north, to obtain the westerly
winds which would enable us to shape a course
for the coast of America and the Equator. As
it was more than probable that we should touch
at the Marquesas in our route. Captain Stavers
had undertaken to convey to their home three
natives of the island of Roapoa, who had been
left at Oahu by an American whale-ship. Two
of these Marquesans were tall and finely
formed men, with agreeable features. One,
named Wivau, was described by his companions
as their superior, and a princii)al chief of Roapoa.
His entire person was very curiously tattooed,
including the three broad bands passing aci'oss
the face, in the situation of the forehead, eyes,
and mouth, so peculiar to the Marquesan men.
He bore on his body the scars of many wounds,
which he had received in the feudal wars of his
island. The other, Mahuani, was tattooed in a
similar manner, though less extravagantly than

THEIR HABITS DESCRIBED,

285

■Wivau. Their companion, Oiatou, was short,
athletic, and had very harsh features ; he dis-
played on his person but little of the pictorial art,
and was treated as an inferior by the other two,
who employed him in cooking, and similar menial
duties. They all appeared less disposed to in-
dustrious habits, and much more helpless at sea,
than the generality of Polynesian islanders.

During the serene evenings of the tropics,
they usually seated themselves on the deck in a
sartorean posture, and entertained us with the
songs of their native land ; performing, in unison,
a slow, mournful chant, accompanied by an
occasional (dapping of the hands, their palms
being kept concave to produce a hollow sound,
which is varied to reijuired keys. Their power
of mimicry was excellent ; and often displayed in
imitating the sailors’ dances, the singing tone of
the Sandwich Islanders, pecniliarities of manner
amongst the crew, or the English language ;
which last they considered was nearest ap-
proached, by combining with some “ unknown
tongue ” a constant succession of hissing sounds.
When bathing in the ocean, as was our custom
in calm weather, these Marquesans joined in
the recreation with an ability which justified the
amphibious character attributed to their na-
tion; they dived without hesitation from the

286 INDICATIONS OF ^ TEMPEST.

fore-yard into the sea, (a height of more than
forty feet,) and their descent wa^i always pre-
ceded by the hurried recitation of a few words
in the Marquesan dialect.

They could not be prevailed upon to eat the
domestic fowl, as that bird was tabooed, or held
sacred, at Roapoa. Wivau told us, with a
serious air, that soon after eating a fowl at Oahu
he had been taken very ill — a coincidence which
had impressed this superstition of his island yet
more strongly upon his mind. They possessed,
indeed, too much shrewdness to he easily con-
verted from their primitive ideas : to some
Society Islanders we had on board, and who at-
tempted to cast ridicule upon the Marquesan
custom of tixing idols to the prows of their
canoes, Wivau made no other reply than point-
ing significantly to the figure of an armed
warrior which adorned the bows of the Tuscan.

It was not until we had proceeded as far as
33" N. lat. that we could obtain winds to convey
us to the southward and eastward. On the 7th
of November, in lat. 32" N., long. l.^O" W.,
though the weather was delightfully serene,
several indications of an aj)proaching tehipest
were present : the barometer had fallen during
twenty-four hours from 30.48 to 2S>.60 ; a
luminous ring encircled the sun ; and at night

ISLAND oy GUADALOUPR. 287

the “ chaste moon” had a peculiar sickly com-
plexion. Added to these, the new moon had
coincided with the perigee of that planet ; when,
upon the authority of Horsburgh, “ the greatest
changes of weather may be expected,” — a re-
mark on which the experience of our commander
had led him to place the greatest reliance. The
succeeding day brought with it a heavy gale
from the South, which continued without inter-
mission until the 11th.

Nov. 20. — Saw Guadaloupe bearing E. N. E.,
twenty miles distant. This island is small and
mountainous ; and has two elevated peaks at its
southern extremity. Its position, according to
our observations, is in lat. 28° 54' N., long.
118” 22' W., or 20 miles north of the situation
assigned to it in our charts*. It appeared to be
about fiifte(m miles in length, and 1000 feet in
height.

On the t'vening of the 24th of November, the
Americiui continent was visible to us at the
distance of between fifty and sixty miles. On

* “ Even in Admiral Krusenstern’s excellent chart of
the Pacific Ocean, it lies in 28» 34' N. ; it is corrected to
its true position in his supplement, yet given in his table
of doubtful positions, p. H54. In Arrowsmith’s chart of
the Pacific, it is in 28'’ 34'.” — Editor of the .lournal of
the Royal Geographical Society.

28H

CAPE ST. LUCAS. — A CHASE.

the 26tb we approached Cape St. Lucas, (the
southern extremity of the isthmu»4|f California,)
and spent four days in cruising close in with its
shores. The promontory of this cape is less
elevated than the adjacent land, and has a rocky,
barren appearance The coast is formed by a
sandy beach, alternating with lofty weathered
cliffs ; and is indented by small bays, some of
which afford anchorage and hamlets. The
interior, fusible from the sea, offers sandy plains,
bounded by hills scantily clothed with vegeta-
tion. We found six American South-Seamen
cruising on this station, which has long been
famous as the occasional resort of large bodies
of Sperm Whales. But little succtiss, however,
had been obtained this season, and nothing oc-
curred during our visit to induce a protrai^ted
stay.

While our small fleet lay off the entrance to
the gulf of California, a school of humpback-
whales (which are numerous on this coast) was
mistaken by tlie leading ship for a herd of
Cachalots. She accordingly made sail in pursuit,
and the other vessels followed her example;
when, the chase being close to the coast, the
ships careering towards the land in all the
graceful postures they assume; when their
(!anvas is spread to a steady breeze — the re-

SINGULAR PHENOMENON.

289

gular movement and spouting of the pursued
monsters — s$d. the dark majestic land ahead, its
summit capped with clouds, gilded by a setting
sun — combined to form a veryimposing spectacle.
As judgment resumed its sway, the ships sue-
cessively relinquished their profitless pursuit
and wore off shore ; when boats passing swiftly
between neighbouring vessels, denoted the inter-
change of those evening visits which usually suc-
ceeded to the duties of the day. On the 28th
we resumed our course for the Equator.

At midnight on the 1st of December, in lat.
19® N., long. 107° W., (half way between the
group of Revilla-gigedo and the continent of
America,) the sea around us presented one
uniform milk-white and luminous expanse, as
far as the eye could see from the mast-head. It
emitted a faint light, like that which attends the
dawn of day, and bore a near resemblance to a
field of snow reflecting the rays of the moon ;
the horizon being strongly defined, by the
contrast of its briglit and silver hue with the
murky darkness of the sky above. Close to the
ship, the water appeared brighter than elsewhere,
and the dashing of the waves against her bows
produced brilliant flashes of light; but it oc-
curred very strangely, that although the waves
could be heard lifting in the ordinary manner.

VOL. 1.

EFFECTS OF A LUMINOUS SEA.

it was difScuIt to perceive them; and the sea
appeared as one tranquil, unbroken surface. A
net and a bucket were employed to ascertain the
cause of this phenomenon. The former captured
nothing but a few medus®, of no phosphorescent
power ; and the water taken up by the bucket,
though it was thickly studded with luminous
points, contained no tangible bodies.

A shoal of porpoises came around us at this
time ; and as they sported in the luminous
ocean, darting rapidly beneath the surface, their
dark bodies enveloped, as it were, in liquid fire,
they tended to complete a scene which, if
correctly pictured, would appear rather as the
fiction of a fairy tale than the effect of natural
causes. This sudden and mysterious change in
the appearance of the sea occasioned an alarm
of shoals ; and the lead was cast, but no sound-
ings could be obtained. Nevertheless, the ship
was hove to till daybreak, when, as the sun
arose, the luminous aspect of the water as
gradually disappeared, and gave place to the
normal blue tint of a clear ocean.*

♦ It was, probably, a phenomenon similar to the one
above described, which was observed by Captain Cook, in
the year 1776, when off the Candlemas Islands, (lat. 57"
11' ,S., long. 27" 6' W.,) and which he thue notices : “ As

the wind kept veering to the south, we were obliged to

CAPTURE SPERM WHALES.

291

In lats. 10“ and 9“ N., the nearest land being
Cliporton’s Rock, the sea had occasionally a
green appearance ; and many boobies came about
the ship. Two of these birds were captured in
the rigging. The one had a light-brown plumage ;
the beak blue, the legs yellow, or lemon-colour ;
its stomach contained eight flying-fish. The
other example had the plumage of its back slate-
colour ; the abdomen white, and the beak and
legs blue.*

December 11. — In lat. 7° N., long 105" W.,
the ship entered suddenly upon a tract of ocean
covered profusely with the floating shell-fish,
Janthina ; and scarcely two hours had elapsed
before Sperm Whales were announced from the
mast-head. The boats were lowered, and two
of them unconsciously struck the same whale,
which was killed bj' the harpoons alone. Cacha-
lots were now frequently noticed and although

stand to the N. E. ; in which route we met with several
large ice-islands, loose ice, and many penguins ; and at
midnight came at once into water uncommonly white,
wdiich alarmed the officer of the watch so much that he
tacked the ship instantly. Some thought it was a float of
ice; others that it was shallow water, but as it proved
neither, probably it was a shoal of fish.”

* It is common, in the Pacific, to meet with boobies
which have their4egs of the respective hues, yellow, blue,
pea-green, and brick-red. — Specific distinctions ?

U 2

292 THE RAINY LATITUDES.

characteristically shy, were pursued by our boats
with much success, as we cruised slowly towards
the Equator, between the meridians of 1 05" and
114" W. Within these limits we detected the
existence of two currents; the one setting to
the S. E., the other to the N. W. ; their waters
had « very animated appearance, and myriads of
albacore constantly attended the ship. In re-
gard to weather, however, this station was in no
way enviable: the steady N. E. trade-winds
had left us at the seventh degree of north
latitude, and the S. E. passed but rarely across
the Equator ; consequently, this was a kind of
neutral ground, in which all the elements in-
dulged. The winds were variable ; squalls and
calms w'ere frequent ; while heavy rains rendered
the process of boiling our oil both protracted
and dangerous. The health of our crew, also,
suffered materially from this wann and wet at-
mosphere, which invariably proves more per-
nicious to the constitution of man than any of
the vicissitudes of weather e.vperienced in high
latitudes.

In lat. 6" 35' N., long. 104" W., a pelican took
refuge on tHe rigging of the ship, and was
captured. It was about the size of a goose, and of
dusky- brown plumage; the beak, pouch, and legs,
olue. It is a species common to the islands off

ANIMATED PURSUIT OF SPERM WHALES. 293

this part of the American continent. The near-
est land was presumed to be Duncan’s Island, of
doubtful existence, but laid down in some of
our charts, in lat. 6“ N., long. 106° W. From
the number of frigate-birds, (upwards of forty
were around the ship at one time,) boobies, and
other amphibious birds which we notic«d on
the same spot, we had reason to suspect the
vicinity of land.

On the 24th of December our eourse was
supposed to have passed over the spot assigned
to Duncan’s Island, without any land being seen.
It subsequently appeared, however, that our
longitude (which was by chronometer) was at
that time less easterly than we supposed, by
thirty miles.

The 27th of December afforded us an un-
usually animated whaling scene. A large school
of Cachalots had been in sight since daybreak,
but had baffled every attempt we made to ap-
proach them, until late in the afternoon, when
they were seen at a short distance to leeward of
the ship. Tlie boats renewed the chase ; while
the Tuscan made sail to prevent the school pass-
ing to windward. It now becam6 a fair trial of
speed between the ship, sailing parallel with the
whales, the latter, swimming at the top of their
speed, and the four boats, following in their

294 DO WHALES SPOUT WATER

wake with all the velocity saUs and oars could
impart to them. The Cachalots were seldom at
a greater distance than a hundred yards to lee-
ward of the ship, and at one time were nearly
under her bowsprit. They swam in rows, and
one of the school was accompanied by a small
calf, which leaped by the side of its mother with
the greatest activity. The chase had continued
thus for some time, and the ship appeared to
have the advantage, when the whales stopped
suddenly, and crowded together as if paralysed
by fear ; but before the boats could reach them
they dived simultaneously, and when they again
rose to the surface, it was at a distance that left
us no chance of success.

On the following night, when the sea was
calm, and more than usually bright with phos-
phorescence, a herd of Blackfish* approached the
ship, some of them passing round her, and others
beneath her keel, spouting incessantly, and
striking their flukes forcibly on the water. I
could not but be impressed with the idea, that
did these cetaceans spout forth the illuminated
water, what sparkling showers would have pro-
ceeded from their spiracles ; but nothing of this
kind was presented to us.

Crossjng the Equator, in long. 116“ W., we

* See Illustrations of Natural History, — Cetaceans.

hood’s island.

295

again entered the South Pacific; and cruised
slowly to the westward, without exceeding the
latitude of 5^° S. Sperm Whales were oc-
casionally seen in our route, and some were
captured. They were, for the most part, journey-
ing in the direction of the line-currents, namely,
to the westward or north of west. From^ the
long, of 135® W., we shaped a course to the
southward, for the Marquesas Islands.

February 26, 1835. — In lat. 7® S., long. 135f“
W., ocean birds, which had latterly been scarce,
came frequently about the ship ; and on the next
day, when our reckoning placed us about 120
miles from land, our feathered visiters had in-
creased to a very considerable multitude. At
sunset on the 27th, Hood’s Island,* of the
Marquesas group, was seen bearing S.W. ^ S.,
distant fifty miles. It was but faintly visible at
this distance, and might have escaped our notice,
but for the number of sea birds which winged
their way towards its shores as the sun dipped
below the horizon.

* When bearing S. by E., distant 20 miles, this island
has the appearance of a very lofty and barren rock, of
square form, with a hummock on each side of its base.
The Marquesans on board our ship gave it the name of
Fethku, described it as uninhabited, and questioned the
possibility of effecting a landing upon its shores. Canoes
from the neighbouring islands occasionally resort to its
coast to fish.

296 Ai^CHOR AT SANTA CHRISTINA.

On the following morning we had a near view
of Riou’s Island, La Dominica (Hivaoa), and San
Pedro*; and soon after made Santa Christina,
and anchored in Resolution Bay, oflp the valley
of Vaitahu.

As we approached the bay, the appearance of
a dwelling, conspicuous for its European style‘
informed us that the missionaries we conveyed
from England to reside at this island had reached
their destination, and as soon as the ship was
secured, we w'ere gratified by a visit from our
late fellow- voyagers, Messrs. Rodgerson and
Stolworthy, who, on our landing, introduced us
to the civilized comforts of their dwelling, as
well as to the agreeable society of Mrs. Rodger-
son, who, although she was now the mother of
an infant daughter, born at Tahiti, had ac-
companied her husband to this precarious post,
and shared his lot with cheerfulness and zeal.
Six months only had elapsed since their arrival
at Santa Christina ; but the favourable reception
they had experienced from the natives appeared
to promise them a long and useful career.

* Onataevo of the natives, an elevated, hut small, sterile,
and rocky island ; uninhabited, or only frequented by
fishermen.

HISTORY OF THE MARQUESAS GROUP. 297

CHAPTER X.

Account of the Marquesas group — Description of Santa
Christina— Native huts — Population of the island —
Physical character of the people — Their attire and
ornaments — Their moral character — Food — Eating-
houses set apart for the men — Public banquets to
celebrate the bread-fruit harvest — Diseases of the
natives — Form of government— Eutiti, chief of Vai-
tuhu — Temples dedicated to the children of royal
chiefs — Spiritual state of the people — Extent of mis-
sionary exertions amongst them — Prospects of the
present resident missionaries — Aboriginal marriage
customs — Disposal of <he dea<l — Wars — Defensive state
of the valleys — Recreations of the islanders — Their
songs — Peculiarities of the Marquesan dialect — Capa-
bilities of the soil — Native manufactures — Canoes —
Advantages the island oilers for the refrevsliment of
ships — Necessary precautions to be taken by the com-
manders of vessels — Instances of the treachery and
ferocity of the Marquesan natives — Natural productions
of the island.

The Marquesas or Mendana group is com-
posed of thirteen islands, extending 200 miles
in a N. W. and S. E. direction. Of these islands,
Santa Christina, La Dominica, San Pedro, and

298

PRINCIPAL ISLANDS.

La Magdeleiia, were discovered by the Spanish
navigator, Mendana, in 1595, and named by him
Marquesas de Mendoza, in honour of the Marques
Garcia de Mendoza, then Viceroy of Peru. Hood’s
Island was discovered by our own countryman,
Cook, in 1774 ; and as it is distinctly visible from
the lowlands of La Dominica, it appears rather
singular that it should have escaped the notice
of Mendana.

The other islands were discovered, or explored,
by Lieut. Hergest, in the Daedalus ; and also
by some American navigators, who have called
them Washington’s Islands. All these lands,
however, are in sight of each other, form but
one group, and are usually designated the Mar-
quesas, — a name which it is to, be hoped they
will retain ; since a well-established nomen-
clature is as desirable in the geographical, as it
is in every other department of science.

Nuuhiva is the largest of the Marquesas
islands ; and La Dominica is the second in magni-
tude ; but neither of them is so large as the princi-
pal isles of the Society and Sandwich groups :
Nuuhiva does not exceed seventy miles in cir-
cumference ; while La Dominica is not more
than forty-eight. The first named island and
Santa Christina are the only two at all generally
frequented by shipping ; though the natives of

•ANTA CHRISTINA. — COAST SCENERY. 299

several others are anxious to enjoy a similar
advantage, and make inviting promises of good
behaviour and abundant supplies.

Santa Christina, or Tahudta of the natives, is
separated from La Dominica by a navigable
channel, lying due east and west, and not
exceeding two-and-a-half miles across. The
land extends in a N.N.E. and S.S.W. direction
about ten miles ; its circumference is twenty-five
or thirty miles. Its form is typical of that which
obtains in all the islands of this group — an
elevated mountain runs throughout the centre
of the island, throwing off spurs to the east
and west towards the sea, and thus dividing the
lowlands into distinct valleys, which open upon
the ocean, but are only accessible by land over
the high hills that bound them.*

The coast scenery is neither picturesque nor
inviting. Its principal features are black and
surf-beaten rocks, naked cliffs df the same
gloomy hue, and exposed hills, on which little
other vegetation can be seen than scattered
clumps of the drooping casuarina tree. The

* Although this peculiar form of land is most strikingly
exhibited in the Marquesas, it equally obtains at the
Society, Sandwich, and other volcanic islands of the
Pacific, as well as at St. Helena, in the Atlantic, with
an uniformity that is remarkable.

300

VALLEYS.

valleys distributed around the island are thirteen
in number, each distinguished by a native name;
they seldom exceed one and a half or two miles
in breadth, and rise towards the interior with a
gentle acclivity, luxuriantly vegetated. But little
underwood encumbers their soil, which is for
the most part a dark and rich loam. Some of
them possess rivers or large streams, flowing
from the hills ; but many are destitute of this
supply, and water is no where superfluously
abundant. Well defined paths, — the absence of
troublesome brushwood — the sweet odour from
the blossoms of trees — the views of land and sea,
commanded from the lofty passes between the
different valleys — the melody of many song-birds
— and a serene climate, kept temperate by
mountain breezes — render a ramble over this
country peculiarly delightful to the voyager.

Each valley has a sea-beach, washed by a long
rolling surf, and composed of fine sand, mingled
with particles of olivine, coral detritus, shells or
pebbles, and in some parts encumbered with black
rocks, heaped confusedly together. No coral reef
encircles and protects the shores of this, nor of
any other island of the group. The coast is
abrupt ; and surrounded by blue and fathomless
water, which permits a ship to sail within a
cable’s length of the rocks.

RESOLUTION BAY.

301

Resolution Bay, of Cook, or Port Madre de
Dios, of Mendana, is situated on the N.W, side
of Santa Christina, and corresponds to the valleys
of Vaitahu and Anamaihai— the latter, opening
as a small verdant nook on its southern side. It
offers many advantages as a port ; but is small,
and cannot conveniently accommodate more than
six sail. The entrance is narrow, and the anchor-
age close to the beach, in twenty-two fathoms
water, with sandy bottom. Though well pro-
tected from the trade winds, it is liable to heavy
squalls from the hills, and lies exposed to westerly
gales. A stream of fresh water, gushing from
the face of a cliff, on the beach of Vaitahu,
affords shipping a convenient and good supply
of this essential : it is the same watering-place
indicated by Captain Cook, and the flow is sup-
plied by a mountain stream which is not visible
in the vicinity of the coast. Other anchorages
exist on the same side of the island, off the val-
leys of Abatoni, Anatefau, and Anaaiti ; but
they are all of small extent, very close to the
shore, and the valleys to which they correspond
offer no facilities for watering ships.

Tlie dwellings of the natives are scattered
over the bosom of the valleys, imbedded and
concealed in dense groves of fruit trees. In size,
construction, and cleanliness, they rank inter-

302

NATIVE DWELLINGS.

jDediate to those of the Society and Sandwich
Islanders. They are built in the form of a pa-
rallelogram. From the posterior wall (which is
ten or twelve feet high) the roof descends
abruptly, and to an extent which does not per-
mit the anterior wall (or that in which the
entrance is placed) a greater height than four
feet. Their frame-work is composed of bamboos
or hibiscus rods ; and their roof and sides are
covered with a dense layer of cocoa-nut, panda-
nus, or bread-fruit leaves, impervious to light
and air. Each hut is based upon a platform of
stones, about two feet high, and projecting suffi-
ciently from the walls of the dwelling to afford a
few feet of level surface, on which the residents
lounge or pursue their sedentary occupations.
The huts of the chiefs differ from those of the
inferior class of people, in being covered with
the leaves of the fan-palm, which gives them a
very compact and ornamental appearance.

The interior consists of one large apartment,
floored with the same black and rolled stones
that compose the platform, and spread on three
sides with mats, on which the resident families
repose. The domestic utensils it contains are of
primitive simplicity ; while on shelves, or sus-
pended from the walls, are kept the more valu-
able property of this people, as muskets, bales of

REMARKABLE BUILDINGS. 303

tapa, personal ornaments, drums, war-clubs,
spears, tritons’ horns, bnman bones, and fisbing-
nets. Against that side of the but which faces
the entrance, there is usually fixed a horizontal
beam, with a short and vertical piece of wood at
each of its extremities, the whole being covered
with white cloth, and braided with black and
red cinnet. The use of this appendage is not
very evident ; and unless it be a symbol of super-
stition, it may probably be intended as an orna-
ment ; since, in the huts of the chiefs, its place
was often supplied by the expanded leaves of the
fan-palm.

In the valley of Abatdni we noticed some
buildings of interesting construction. They
were each about fifteen feet high, ten feet square,
and consisted of a single apartment, raised from
the ground to the lieight of eight feet, supported
on four poles, and accessible only by a ladder.
The raised room was lightly built of wood, and
thatched ; was floored with an open-work of
split bamboos; and contained provisions, and
the usual superstitious offerings of refuse food,
which distinguish the eating-houses of the men.
In elevation, mode of access, as well as in their
general appearance, these huts bore a very
striking resemblance to the habitations in use
amongst the Malay tribes of the Indian Archipe-

304 DESCRIPTION OP THE ISLANDERS.

logo. A small plot of cultivated land, surround-
ing many of the huts, is planted with turmeric,
sweet potatoes, or more rarely with tobacco ;
and is enclosed by a low stone wall, which
serves either as a boundary mark, or to guard
the plantations from the intrusion of swine.

The population of Santa Christina is estimated
at 1400 persons. Vaitahu contains about 200
inhabitants ; and each of the larger valleys from
300 to 500. The natives bear the palm for per-
sonal beauty from most other of the Polynesian
tribes. The men are tall and muscular, though
rather slightly framed ; their deportment is
graceful and independent; their features are
handsome, and partake more of the European
regularity of profile than is usual with Poly-
nesian islanders. They speak slowly, with strong
emphasis, and in a tone of voice which is deep,
mellow, and masculine. In hair and complexion
they accord with the Society Islanders ; some
few individuals which we noticed, however, had
their heads covered with short hair, curling in
strong ringlets,* as obtains amongst the Papuan
race of the New Hebrides group.

* This description of hair is much esteemed by the
Marquesans, as an ornament for the handles of their
spears and war-clubs, or as bangles for their ancles. Eu-
ropean lovers of the terrific, regard such hair ornaments as

ECCENTRIC FASHIONS. Hd.'i

The men adopt many whimsical modes of
wearing their hair. All the chiefs that came
under our notice wore it long, and drawn
from all sides to the crown of the head, where
it was twisted into a knot and bound with
white tapa. Some natives of inferior rank had
the entire head shorn, with the exception of two
locks of hair above the ears, and which were
arranged as two short perpendicular clubs, pro-
jecting from each side of the head like budding
horns.* The greater number of the men, how-
ever, have the head capriciously shorn ; some-
times at the crown, like the tonsure of a monk,
and sometimes as a narrow line extending along
the summit of the head. We noticed one youth
who presented a very extraordinary appearance :
the anterior third of his hair having been
cropped to a moderate hmgth, while the re-
mainder grew as a voluminous shaggy bush,
resembling a monstrous wig partly drawn over

tropliies taken from the heatl.s of enemies slain in l)attle :
they are usually, however, obtained from the grower upon
easier terms, and generally by purchase. The people of
Santa (Christina obtain their be.st supply of this kind of hair
from La Dominica, where it would appear to be more
common amongst the natives than on any other island of
this group.

• This mode of wearing the hair obtains also amongst
the'children of the Chinese.

VOL. I.

X

306

VALUB OF A BMAmi,

a Daturdhead ofbdr. A few of the old men
wear their beards of great length and venerably
silvered. However incredible it may appear,
these hairy appendages are chiefly cultivated
for sale : the white or grizzled beards of aged
persons being in great request, either as orna-
ments for conchs, or as a decoration worn like
a plume on the top of the head. In the domestic
traffic of the natives, a musket is considered the
proper value of one of these extraordinary mar-
ketable commodities.

The practice of tatooing the person prevails
to a greater extent at the Marquesas than at
any other of the Polynesian islands. Some of
the men are literally blackened from head to
foot : the tatooed figures being so inextricably
blended, as to destroy the ornamental effect
which a more moderate display of this art de-
cidedly confers. All the designs impressed on
the skin, are executed in a very curious and
masterly style. The three black bands across
the face, and which give a strange harlequin-
like appearance to the countenance, are seldom
wanting, although they would appear to admit
of deviation; for in one instance, where a
large ntevm maternus occupied one cheek, the
tatooed bands were drawn obliquely, so as to
cover the deformity. When the face is very

PRACTICE OP TATOOING.

307

profusely tatooed, a circle of unmarked skin is
usually left around each eye, and produces a
peculiarly glaring and almost terrific effect.

The extent to which the person is tatooed
does not determine rank or reputation : many
of the principal chiefs and warriors being less
adorned in this manner than their inferiors.
The practice must rather be regarded as an op-
tional assumption of finery, in which those most
indulge whose vanity and wealth enable them
best to support the pain and expense. To have
the face tatooed, however, is an essential manly
characteristic ; and those who are destitute of
such distinction are looked upon as effeminate —
resembling women and children. I submitted
to have a Marquesan design tatooed on my
own arm : the instruments and mode of pro-
ceeding were similar to those employed by
the Society Islanders. The artist, (who was
a native of La Dominica,) amused me during
the operation with a sagacious discourse upon
the excellent bargain I had made with him ;
for, he said, the musket-balls, flints, and to-
bacco, he received as his fee, would be soon
expended, while the tatooed figure he gave me
would remain for life.

The men, of whatever rank, wear a narrow
girdle, or Adwtt of bark-cloth, around the loins ;

X 2

308

FKMALE PECULIARITIES.

and more rarely, a scarf of the same material
covering the 'shoulders. The peasantry, when
engaged in laborious occupations, often cast
aside the hami, a^^d are contented with the very
local covering a plaintain leaf affords. A small
caj), made from the leaf of the fan-palm and
ingeniously braided with cinnet, is occasionally
worn on the head. European clothing is not
at all in request ; and even those natives who,
by serving on board ships, or by residing in
civilized lands, have become accustomed to its
use, invariably relinquish their exotic and as-
sume their primitive apparel, immediately after
they return to their own country.

The women are rather short in stature, de-
licately proportioned, intelligent, animated, and
good-humoured ; many of them may, with the
strictest truth, be termed handsome, though
judged by the standard of European ideas of
beauty. Their expression of counten.'ince is ex-
ceedingly ])leasing, and their complexion not
any darker than is required to give due effect to
their black sparkling eyes, raven hair, and white
and regular teeth. They hold a fair complexion
in high esteem ; and to acquire this attraction,
they seldom expose themselves unnecessarily to
the sun, and smear their skin with a cosmetic, in
which the yellow of the turmeric root predomi-

COSMETICS.

309

nates. This latter practice is also adopted by
the chiefs among the men. When, thus stained,
their appearance is somewhat extraordinary;
and since ‘the dye * they employ is not a fast
although a iody-colour, it is^ often too freely
communicated from their persons to surround-
ing objects. In default* of turmeric-root, they
stain their skin of a yellow-green hue, with the
bruised leaves of an herbaceous plant, growinj2j
wild in the valleys.

The females are but sparingly tatooed ; an
from the superior whiteness and delicacy of their
skin, the designs tln^y thus display have a much
more vivid and ornamental effect than those on
the persons of the men. Their bust and limbs
are elegantly impressed with scattered figures ;
but with the exception of a few lines drawn
across the lips, the face is seldom marked.
They wear their hair long, collected in a knot
at the top of the head, and bound with a long

• This cosmetic is usually described as being composed
of turmeric and cocoa-nut oil, but such is not the fact . it
is prepared by pounding turmeric- root with the benies of
a tree called by the natives keku. {Sapindus saponuria.) The
juice of these berries being adhesive, like honey or sugar-
water, causes the turmeric to adhere to the skin ; while
a few moments’ ablution is sufficient to remote the cos-
metic from the person, and permit it to be renewed sevei.il
times in the day.

310

PRIMITIVE DECORATIONS.

and broad £llet of bark-cloth, thinner than the
finest muslin. The same piece of cloth is some-
times stretched smoothly over the forehead and
hair, when it resembles a close cap,' and looks
extremely modest and becoming. Their body-
dress is a piece of cloth, or kahu, sufficiently
large to envelop the entire person, though usually
worn as a scarf ; and a small girdle round the
loins. The principal people of both sexes per-
mit their finger nails to grow to an extraordi-
nary length ; and here, as with the Chinese, this
custom is intended to denote superiority in
rank, and a consequent exemption from manual
labour.

Amongst the decorations worn by these island-
ers is a head-dress, composed of the long and
black feathers from the tail of a cock, fas-
tened to a fillet of eocoa-nut einnet. Although
thus simple in its construction, it has a digni-
fied and imposing appearance when adorning
the brows of a native warrior. A piece of ca-
labash, of crescentic forni, covered with tlie
Crimson seeds of the Abrvs precatorim, (a pa-
pilionaceous plant, resembling the vetch of the
English fields,) and bound with a black and white
einnet composed of native cloth and hibiscus-
bark, is worn on the forehead as an inverted cres-
cent, or like the tiara assumed by our theatrical

NBCKLACES. EAR-ORNAMENT.

311

tragic queens, and has a very gaudy appearance.
An ornament similar to the last, but of larger
size, is also worn suspended from the neck, and
covering the breast as a gorget. The head-
dress to which the chiefs attach the highest
value, is either a long grey beard, worn as a
drooping plume, or a kind of coronet of cocoa-
nut cinnet, inlaid with plates of ivory, mother-
of-pearl, and tortoise-shell. Their necklaces
are, for the most part, extemporaneously pre-
pared from vegetables of agreeable hue or odour;
but some, of a more valued description, are
made with portions of ivory, carved in the form
of whales’ teeth, or with small snail-shells, strung
together in vast numbers.

An ear-ornament, worn by both sexes, and
called taiana, consists of the posterior third of an
univalve shell ; it is circular, about three inches
in circumference, highly polished, and of a dead-
white colour ; its hollow (filled with the resin
and wood of the bread-fruit tree) receives an
ivory stem, carved with human figures in re-
lief. One of these ornaments is worn on each
side the head ; the stem being passed through
the lobe of the ear, and the white polished shell
projecting forwards. The largest teeth of the
sperm whale, highly polished, bound with cin-
npt, and worn pendant over the breast, are also

3J2

NATIVE BEAUX.

to be included amongst the principal decollations
of this jti^ople.

In the huts of the chiefs we saw some skulls
of boars, remarkable for the length of their
tusks, and prepared with a neatness a compa-
rative anatomist might envy ; as well as human
skulls, ingeniously carved, and used to append
to the person amongst the paraphernalia of
war. The origin of the human bones was al-
ways referred, by their owners, to La Dominica ;
but I suspect that many of them were indi-
genous to this island.

A large fan, borne in the hand, is peculiarly
characteristic of the Santa Christina aristocracy.
It is of a semicircular form, and made from the
ribs of the cocoa-nut leaf, first softened by heat,
and then interwoven in an e.xceedingly neat and
compact manner. Its surfaiH* is either blackened
with the ‘i lamp-black” of the candle-nut, or
whitened with (!oral lime ; its handle is of wood,
curiously carved with grotescpie images.

The Tuscan was fretiuently visited by parties of
tall andhaudsouu! young Marquesas men, dressed
in full costume — they appeared to be, in their
way, real exquisites — their symmetrical persons
were handsomely tatooed, and stained with the
yellow cosmetic of the country; a roll of bark-
cloth covered their hips, and descended “ fore

MORAL STATE OF THE PEOPLE. 313

and aft” in several broad bands ; while ^ body
cloth, neatly folded, was laid on one shoulder
and supported with the corresponding hand.
Their hair was studiously dressed in some fancy
mode ; and a necklace of small shells, or of the
red fruit of the Pandanus, bangles of curled hair
on the ancles, and a pair of taianas in the ears,
completed their attire. They lounged about the
deck with a reserved and self-satisfied air, often
assuming studied and graceful attitudes to at-
tract attention. Other natives, who visited the
ship to gratify their curiosity, were unsociable,
and though clad in little more than the simple
hami, paced the deck with a stern, dignified
mien, and in the languages of Milton,

Godlike erect, with native honour clad,

In naked majesty seem’d lord of all.”

The disposition of these islanders is irasci-
ble, revengeful, and sensual. They are cove-
tous and “ hard bargainers,” but we found them,
for the most part, honest. Our officers and crew
traded with them at the different valleys upon
the most friendly terms, and in our e.xcursions
over the island we everywhere experienced the
kindest treatment. The ship was thronged
daily with natives of every class ; yet it was
rarely that we lost anything by theft. It was

314 INSTANCE OF MARQUBSAN HONESTY.

our custom, also, to send our boats, manned
only by natives of Vaitahu, to procure hogs at
the neighbouring island, La Dominica, (a shore
which no Europeans can approach on the same
errand without almost a certainty of boodshed.)
These people were furnished by us with mus-
kets and ammunition for barter, and invariably
performed their commission with fidelity; re-
turning to the ship each night with the desired
supplies, the unexpended muskets, and a cor-
rect debtor and creditor account, kept with
slips of cocoa-nut leaf. The children, however,
were particularly thievish — in them the pro-
pensity to pilfer appeared to be purely instinc-
tive, while in the adults it was modified by
reason, or checked by the commands of their
chiefs, who are anxious to encourage the visits
of shipping by conciliatory conduct.

However friendly these islanders may appear
to be, it is the duty of every commander of a
ship, visiting them, to be on his guard ; for
they are extremely capricious, and capable of
committing the greatest outrages when least
suspected. When uninfluenced by interested
motives, their general manner towards Europeans
is far from courteous, and is marked by a rude
independence, or assumed superiority, which
would declare that they despise white people

TREATMENT OF WOMEN.

315

personally, as much as they fear or respect the
advantages with which civilization has sur-
rounded them.

Passionately addicted to war, in all its pomp
and circumstance, their eyes sparkle, and their
features are animated with delight, when they
are shown a goodly array of muskets ; their
desire for wealth being limited to possessing
many of those weapons, with plenty of ammu-
nition.

Their treatment of the soft sex is somewhat
paradoxical ; for while they profess to he very
fond of their women, and pride themselves
upon their beauty and excellence, they keep
them under strict discipline, even to the extent
of personal correction, and refuse them many
indulgences in food, &c. which they themselves
enjoy. The superior chiefs offer their wives to
the voyager as a token of friendship ; and a
refusal of the proffered favour would be regarded
as uncourteous. The females are, on their part,
very liberal in their offers, and in the exercise
of their blandishments toward Europeans.

When compared with the inhabitants of other
groups, the Marquesans may be said to excel
the Society Islanders in the possession of a more
salubrious, though equally fertile soil ; and to
surpass the Sandwich Islanders in the sponta-

316

CURIOUS SPRING.

neous fertility of their country, whilst they
equal them in mental and physical energy. In
personal appearance they are decidedly supe-
rior to either Society or Sandwich Islanders.

' Their principal food is bread-fruit, which
they eat in the form of poe, or in the fer-
mented state, when it is called maa. They
})repare also a kind of pudding, called pm,
by pounding the ripe bread-fruit into a paste,
which is enveloped in l(*aves, and baked in
large oblong masses; when cooked, it has a
brown colour, an agreeable sweetness, and jus-
tifies the propriety of the name given to the
fruit from which it is prepared, by bearing the
closest resemblance to an excellent bread-pud-
ding. Cocoa-nuts, bananas, and sweet potatoes,
are included in their diet ; but the mountain-
plantain, {huitu of these islanders, fei of the
Tahitians,) though abundant and excellent on
their hills, is only eaten when bread-fruit is un-
usually scarce. The intoxicating drink, kava,
is prepared for the chiefs in the usual revolting
manner ; but we observed amongst them no
instance of the leprosy which attends its inor-
dinate us.e. The people of the valley of Aba-
toni obtain the water they drink from a re-
markable spring, rising from the bottom of a
hollow in' a rock, within six feet of the sea,

B\NQ,\]ETlNG-H0l)8ES.

317

and occasionally washed by the surf, or co-
vered by the rising tide. Some similar exca-
vations in the same rock, and more inland than
this, are filled by the sea; and it requires the
evidence of taste to be convinced, that perfectly
fresh water can occupy so suspicious a spot.

The men eat apart from the women, in
houses erected for that purpose at a short dis-
tance from their dwellings, and in which they
keep their provisions. Women are forbidden
to enter them under the severest penalties.
They are in the form of a shed, open on three
sides, based upon a stone platform, and fimeed,
in front, either with j)oles or rails, on which very
large fish, or other kinds of food, are suspended
as an offering to the heathen gods. Two public
buildings of this description are erected on the
north side of the valley of Vaitalui ; on a spot
shaded by a fun tree of extraordinary size, and
set apart for the public labours and amusements
of the villagers, liie largest is a lofty shed', fifty
feet in length, and raistnl upon a stone platform
about six feet high ; its interior, and the posts
which support the thatched roof, are, decorated
with red and black cinnet, and with long pen-
nants of white cloth. Although these strips of
cloth denoted that the place was tabooed, the na-
tives made no objection to our scaling the stone

HARVEST festivals;

dig

platform, and examining the interior of the edi-
fice. Its only contents, however, were a cylindrical
drum, ten feet long, suspended from the wall,
and several enormous wooden troughs, or ^oe
dishes. Most of the ordinary dwelling-huts
have in their vicinity a square pile of stones, on
which the women take their meals, or seat
themselves to enjoy the freshness of the open
air. About the time of the bread-fruit harvest,
namely, in the months of February and March,
the chiefs of this island give, each in his turn,
entertainments to which the people of the ad-
jacent valleys are invited. They are attended
with much noisy festivity ; feasting, dancing,
and singing being continued, with but little
intermission, for several successive days. The
number of hogs killed on these occasions is
immense ; and troughs, eighteen feet long, and
proportionately broad, filled with bread-fruit
poe, are placed in the public banqueting-halls
for the entertainment of the guests. The mes-
senger who bears to the surrounding villages an
invitation to a festival of this kind, is decked
with all the finery his person can bear, or the
wealth of his tribe supply.

These people are a much healthier race than the
Society Islandeu. The only peculiarities in their
state of health are the total absence of elephan-

NATIVE GOVERNMENT.

319

tiasis, and the occasional presence of goitre, or
hronchocele. Marks of severe injuries, received
in war, are visible on the persons of many of the
men, and often exhibit surprising and instruc-
tive examples of the restorative powers of unaided
nature. Independent of the chances of war, the
frequent and incautious use they make of fire-
arms (not always of the best quality) must lead
to frequent accidents. When ships are in the
port, and ammunition plentiful, dropping shots
are heard in every valley : on one occasion we
encountered a native in our walks, who, to enjoy
a “ grand crack,” had more than half filled the
barrel of his musket with gunpowder, for a single
charge.

Tfhe medical treatment of their sick is simple
and nugatory.. They trust for cure chiefly to
charms or incantations ; and upon the serious
illness of a chief, surround his dwelling with
frantic gestures and loud exclamations, to drive
away the demon which they imagine to be the
cause of his sufferings.

Each valley is under the dominion of an
Ariiki, or chief, who maintains a feudal inde-
pendence ; though there are also several chiefs
of minor rank who are equally absolute in their
own districts. They are implicitly obeyed by
their vassals, though they demand no ceremo-

320 EUTITI, CHIEF OF VAITAHU.

nies of respect from the latter, nor, on ordinary
occasions, are to be distinguished from them by
any personal badge of dignity. The authority
of the supreme chiefs is inherited by their
children, but is not annulled, or transferred to
the child, immediately upon the birth of the
latter, as was the primitive custom with the
Society and some other islanders. To labour is
the lot of the lower classes ; while the chiefs
indulge in swinish indolence, unless roused by
the excitement of war.

Eutiti, the principal chief of Vaitahd, is a
shrewd and avaricious man, about the mid
period of life, and very corpulent. His com-
plexion is light ; his person handsomely tatooed,
and seldom covered with more than the hami^
or cloth-girdle. He is anxious to encourage
the visits of shipping to his port, since, through
his traffic with them, and consequent ac(itiire-
ment of muskets, &c. he is enabled to maintain
considerable influence over the other chiefs of
the island. He is the patron of our mission-
aries, and, for the benefit of their cause, it is to
be wished that he were absolute. Titiutu, his
wife, is a tall and handsome woman, a native of
La Dominica.

The offspring of the royal pair are a son
and daughter ; the former about five years old,

HONORARY TEMPLES.

321

and the latter eight. The “ young princess”
resides with her parents; while the son (in
compliance with a custom that requires the
chiefs of the different valleys to commit the
charge of their children to each other, probably
as a bond of friendship) resides with Ohiki, the
reigning chief of Anarnaihai, and constant ally
of Eutiti. The chiefs of Abatoni are four in
number, of whom Fi or Fitu is the superior.

It is the custom of these islanders to erect
small and highly decorated buildings in honour
of the children of their supreme chiefs. This
compliment had been paid to Eutiti’s daughter,
at Vaitalnl, a few weeks before our arrival. It
consisted in two small huts, neatly built with
peeled hibiscus rods, which were covered with
white tapa and stained cocoa-nut cinnet ; the
interior was occu])ied by many of the same rods,
arranged vertically, graduated in height, and
entwined w ith bunches of herbs -, the face of the
building was ornamented by a few boards, painted
with mystic figures in black and red. The
white and delicate' appearance of the hibiscus
rods, th(^ fluttering pennants of fine tapa, and
the various gaudy hues emplot ed, gave the en-
tire edifice a fantastic and imposing appearance.
A low stone wall enclosed the two huts ; and
within its precincts were several bundles of
ton. 1. V

322 SPIRITUAL STATE OF THE NATIVES.

cocoa-nut leaves, placed upright, and intended
to represent the tutelary deities of the spot. A
solitary edifice of the same description had been
erected in honour of Eutiti’s son, at Anamaihai,
the territory of his guardian. It differed from
that dedicated to his sister, in being based on
an elevated stone platform, as well as in having
a long wicker-basket placed at the entrance.

The object in erecting these temples is to
recognise the title of the children to the nobility
of their parents ; hence, the entire omission of
the compliment would cast a blemish upon the
future reputation of the young personages. Much
festivity attends the consecration of the build-
ings. They are left standing until destroyed by
decay, and are always, religiously tabooed from
the intrusion of the populace.

If anxf religion at present exist amongst the
natives of Tnhuata, it is idolatry. None of the
valleys, however, possess any mornis or other
buildings devoted to religious purjwses, nor any
public idols. The superstitious rites exercised
by the people appear to be merely intendi^d to
propitiate or repel imaginary demons, or to
protect property and sanctuaries.

Exertions have not been wanting on the part
of the religious public of Great Britain to bring
this people within the pale of the Christian

VISIT OF TAHITIAN TEACHERS.

323

church, though hitherto they have been unat-
tended with success. As early as 1797, Mr.
Crooke, an English missionary, was landed at
Tahuata from the ship Duff. He gained the
confidence and esteem of the natives, but made
no advance in their conversion, and was recalled
after little more than twelve months residence
in the country.

No further attempt was made to introduce
Christianity to this group until tlu^ year 1 825,
when a party of native teachers from Tahiti
landed at Resolution Bay. The conduct of the
Mariiuesans towards them was far from agree-
able, find their stay was consequently but short.
Captains John and Thomas Stavers, in command
of the South-Seamen Offley and Tuscan, visited
Vaitahii soon after the arrival of the Tahitians,
and were questioned by Eutiti respecting the
object of sending these teachers amongst his
people — ht' was told that it was to prepare the
way for Europc^an missionaries. He complained
that the Tahitians did not conform to the cus-
toms of his country, and that they had no gun-
powder to give him. This last objection was
removed by sujiplying the strangers with some
of the coveted ammunition, without which it
was evident they could make no advance in the
favour of their protecting chief. A subsequent

324

SURRENDER OF IDOLS.

conversation turned upon the subject of the
abolition of idols, a measure which Eutiti at
first opposed, upon the plea that no bread-fruit
would be produced if they were removed from
the island; but he at length yielded to per-
suasion, and, in spite of the clamour of his peo-
ple, consigned his wooden gods (which were of
large size and rudely carved) to the ships, where
some of them were employed as fire-wood, and
the remainder brought to England. Some
further efforts were made, at different times, to
establish Tahitian teachers on this island, but
they totally failed.

About the year 1833, by an arrangement
between the religious societies of England
and the United States of America, a party of
missionaries was sent fi'om each of those
countries to the Marquesas, at nearly the
same time ; the English selecting Santa Chris-
tina, and the Americans Nuuhiva, as their re-
spective stations. On our second visit to the
Sandwich Islands, we found that the American
missionaries had thus early been compelled to
relintfuish their post at the Marquesas, through
the turbulent, licentious, and dishonest conduct
of the natives, and were then residing at Oahu ;
and we naturally felt an.vious lest the English
party, which we had conveyed to Tahiti on their
way to Santa Christina, should be deterred by the

prospects of the missionaries. 325

American failure from prosecuting their designs.
It was therefore with much satisfaction that we
found Messrs. Rodgerson and Stolworthy settled
at Resolution Bay, under as favourable circum-
stances as could reasonably be expected. They
had found but little encouragement, however,
in the disposition of the natives ; who, though
they had abolished open idolatry, retained the
greater part of the prejudices and customs of
their heathen state ; and their behaviour towards
the European tea«diers, though peaceable and
kind, was mercenary, and marked by a total in-
difference to instruction. The chief, Eutiti, and
his relatives, profess to be Christians ; but the
reality of their conversion is very questionable ;
in protecting our missionaries they appear to be
chiefly actuated by a desire to increase their
commerciid intercourse with Europeans. It was
the wish of the missionaries to have a church
built in Vaitalui, and Eutiti offered every facility,
but at the same time insisted, that it should be
erected on the summit of a high hill, and bear
a flag, that it might attract shipping to his port
— a plan to which the missionaries w’ould not
accede.

The result of the present well-organized
attempt to civilize the Marquesans will be
aqxiously awaited by all who are interested in

326 OBSTACLES TO A STATE-CONVERSION.

the welfare of the human race. Notwithstanding
the zeal and ability of the missionaries now
occupied in the attainment of this object, seve-
ral national peculiarities which exist amongst the
Marquesans must necessarily oppose their per-
fect success ; and these are chiefly the firmly-
prejudiced and independent ideas of the people
— the indiflerence, if not contempt, they enter-
tain for the opinions and persons of Europeans —
the feudal character of the government, or want
of a supreme sovereign, whose will would be im-
plicitly obeyed, and whose sentiments would be
echoed by the nation at large, as at the Society
and Sandwich groups — and the warring policy and
petty jealousies* of the different valleys, which
would render it difficult to enforce the general
practice of improved habits, cveji should whole-
some pr(‘cei)ts be established. In their present
unsettled ideas of religion, the nominal state-
conversion of these islanders might be purclumd
by a certain amount of presimts impartially dis-
tributcid ; and it will, probably, be ultimately

* x\ striking proof of the jealous feeling existing among
the chiefs was aflorded our missionaries at Vaitahii, when;
a chieftain, of some iniluence, considered his dignify hurt
that the reverend gentlemen should preach only in Eutiti’s
district, and refused to attend them unless a separate
service was performed for liimself and vassals on his own
territory, in anotlicr part of the same valley.

MARRIAGE CUSTOMS.

327

found necessary to temporizo^ and purchase
from the present heads of families an opportunity
of instructing the rising generation.

A truly Asiatic custom obtains here, of be-
trothing the sexes to each other while yet in-
fants. Several sturdy young chiefs were brought
by their parents to Mrs. Rodgerson, soon after
her arrival at the island, that she might select
from amongst them a future husband for her
infant daughter. These courteous offers were,
of course, as courteously declined, with an ex-
planation of the more independent ideas on the
question of matrimony entertained by the En-
glish ladies. In no instaiK^e did we find a native,
of whatever rank, in j)ossession of more than
one wife, a number which they probably re-
gard as tin; most convenient and manageable,
since polvganiy is not forbidden by their
laws.

Loud lamentations, and cutting or bruising
the person, are practised upon the decease of
a relative or friend, and but a few hours after
death, the corpse is removed to a shed, where
it is allowed to remain and decay. This
dwelling of the dead, or tiapapau, varies in
appearance according to the rank of the te-
nant. I first noticed one, of the simplest con-
struction, during an excursion over an elevated

328

disposal Of the dead.

and secluded part of the island, when, wishing
to follow a narrow and steep path, my guide
appeared reluctant t6 accompany, me ; but this
I, at the time, attributed to his indolence, and
continued the ascent alone. The path termi-
nated at the summit of an exposed hill, on
which was erected a shed, eight feet high, com-
posed merely of a double-inclined thatched roof
supported on four posts, and containing a raised
scaffold, or bier, on which was laid a corpse,
wrapped in white cloth. On descending the
hill, I was informed that the cor])se I had seen
was the female relative of a family residing in a
neighbouring hut. I urgently requested the
kindred of the deceased, as well as my native
guide, to return with me to the tiapapau, that I
might have an explanation of its economy ; but
this they positively refused to do, alleging in
excuse, that the spot was tabooed, and if they
approached it they would speedily die.

A superior class of tiapopam, most numerous
in the valleys, resembles in its form the ordi-
nary native hut. It is usually surrounded by
a low stone wall ; the front of the roof is
supported by wooden pillars, bound with red
and black cocoa-nut cinnet ; and a similar
stained cordage binds the cloth which envelops
the corpse, deposited on the raised bier within.

CEMETERY 01^ A CHIEF.

329

The cemeteries of the chiefs' are situated in
the interior of the. valleys, and are so deeply
imbedded in a dense’ foliage as not to be easily
found without the guidance of a native. The
burial place of Eutiti’s father is in the centre of
the valley of Vaitahu. A low but extensive
stone platform, beneath the shade of a venerable
y««-tree, marks the more consecrated ground ;
and on this is erected a wooden hut, contain-
ing an elevated trough, shaped as a canoe, and
holding the perfect skeleton of the late chief.
In front of the sepulchre are two hideous wooden
idols, and several bundles of cocoa-nut leaves :
the latter are similar to those which consecrate
the tem])les erected in honour of the royal chil-
dren, and which are also eni))loyed to tahoo the
cultivated lands of the chiefs. The only other
object on this s])ot, worthy of notice, was a
shell, or triton’s horn, ('Triton variegntus,J de-
posited iipon the stump of a tree. It was of the
kind which is blown with a loud and grave sound
upon the decease of chi(‘fs ; but was destitute of
the gourd mouth-piece, and flowing gray beard,
which are always attached to this implement,
when kept in its owner's hut.

A brother of the chief Eutiti conducted me to
many similar, but more extensive burial places,
in the interior of Vaitahu. Some of these

330

SUPERSTITIONS.

he entered without scruple ; whilst others, and
more especially such as were appropriated to
his own relations, he would not enter; but,
seated near their precincts, threw stones at any
object he wished me to notice. Each family
cemetery is a large plot of ground, enclosed by
a low stone-wall, and planted with a profusion
of fruit-trees ; and would bear some resemblance
to an orchai’d, but for the number of ruined
tiapapaus, wooden idols, and human bones,
strewn over its soil. Near the tomb of a chief,
(who, my guide informed me, had been killed in
a war with the people of Abatoni,) a boar’s
head was suspended from the branch of a tree,
as an offering to a demon who is supposed to
frequent the spot, t'ocoa-nuts and other fruits,
usually a])plied to the use of the living, here
cover the ground in wasteful profusion, a tri-
bute to the dead ; tin; natives being forl)idden
to gather the fruit borne by the trees vvhicli
shade these cemeteries, under a ])enalty of
death, inflicted by the relations of the dceejused
whose sanctuary is thus violated ; but this
prohibition does not extend to foreigners, whe-
ther white people or the natives of other of the
Marquesan Islands. The bones of the royal
chiefs lU’c not allowed to moulder on the sj)ot
where their tiapopmt is erecterl ; but when scat-

TOMB OF EUTITI’S CHILD.

331

tered on tVie soil beneath, are carefully collected,
folded in a cloth, and buried in some more se-
cluded spot.

The most picturesque mausoleum we noticed
was that which contained the corpse of one of
Eutiti’s children. It was placed on the sum-
mit of an isolated hill, rising from the bosom of
a well-wooded savannah, and was covered en-
tirely with the leaves of the fan-palm. The
posterior, or tallest wall was twelve feet high,
the anterior was low, closed by a mat, and de-
corated with six wooden pillars, covered with
stained cinnet and white cloth. Strips of
tapa, fixed to a wand, fluttered on the roof, to
denote that the spot was tabooed ; and for the
same pur])ose, a row of globular stones, each
the size of a foot-ball, and whitened with coral
lime, ooc'upied the top of a low but broad stone-
wall which encircled the building. The interior
contained nothing but the bier on wdiich the
corpse was laid. The enclosed ground in front
of the fiapapou, as well as the brow of the hill,
was planted with seedling cocoa-nut })alms, no
loftier vegetation than herbage growing sponta-
neously on the mount. I have endeavoured to
give an idea of the general appearance of this
building in the subjoined sketch.

332

DOMESTIC WARS.

Wars are frequently carried on between the
inhabitants of the different valleys, and, al-
though the whole island had enjoyed profound
peace for some time previous to our arrival, the
people of Vaitahu kept a nightly wat(‘h on their
hills, to guard against a surprise from the war-
riors of Abatoni. This latter valley is the most
powerful rival to Vaitahu ; and Eutiti inva-
riably requests the masters of ships, visiting his
port, to supply the residents on that part of the
coast with as few and bad muskets as possible
In conducting their warfare, they ])ref('r skir-
mish, ambush, and suiq)rise. Pitched battles
are generally fought on the hills intervening
between the valleys. The tribes arc summoned
to arms by the sound of a conch-shcll, smaller

MODERN 'WEAPONS.

333

than that used at funerals, and gi'ving a shriller
clangour. The natives of Tahuata admit that
their forefathers were accustomed to devour
their prisoners of war, but stoutly deny that the
same cannibal propensity exists among them-
selves.

Fire-arms, bayonets fixed on poles, whaling-
spades, and cutlasses, have, in a great measure,
superseded the use of their primitive weapons,
as spears, clubs, and slings ; and if the opinion
be tenable, that wars become less frecjuent in
proportion to the deadly nature of the weapons
employed in them, (and which certainly appears
to be the case amongst the semi-civilized and
well-armed nations of Polynesia,) it is to be
hoped that the number of sanguinary feuds
will be diminished by the exchange. Should
Eutiti retain his present superiority over the
other chiefs, and continue to be advised by our
missionaries, war may be long avoided through
his influence.

Singing and dancing are the only recreations
in which these islanders indulge. The only
musical instrument w(i observed amongst them
was the drum, a hollow wooden cylinder, covered
at each end with shark’s skin, and provided with
braces of cocoa-nut cinnet, which are tightened
or relaxed by shifting rolls of cloth placed beneath

334

NATIVE SONGS.

them. The drums used on ceremonial occa-
sions are of vast size, and produce a very loud
tone; others are smaller — do not exceed four
feet in length, and are chiefly employed as an
accompaniment to the voice. In each valley
there is a space of ground surrounded by a
circle of loose stones, and set apart for musical
exercises. Here a party of natives often assem-
ble, and sing to the sound of the drums, j)laced
on the ground, and beaten upon with the hands.
Their mode of singing is peculiar. Seated on
the ground in a circle, or in rows facing each
other, they perform in unison a slow mournful
chant, accompanied at intervals by a simulta-
neous clapping of the hands. Some of their
songs are varied, by a certain number of tlie
performers producing a clacking sound with
the tongue, or a report caused by forcably
striking one arm with the opposite hand ; by
a rapid motion of the fingers, tlie arms being
stretched forwards ; or by the introduction of a
ludicrous falsetto voice. A group of singi-rs,
seated on the ground, would occasionally hi'
attended by a row of other performers, who
remained standing, and merely clapped their
hands in the manner of a chorus. Some
etiquette appeared to obtain with respect to
the rank of tliose natives who sang together:

MA11Q\3ESA.N DIALECT.

and it is not customary for men and women to
combine their voices. One of our missionary
friends, who was present with us at a concert
of this description, took the opportunity to re-
present to the performers, how much better
their time might be employed than in thus pro-
ducing wild harmony. The music ceased when
he addressed them; and, for some minutes,
its pla(;e was supplied by a shrewd discourse
from the leaders of the band, to the effect that
their work was done, and that they considered
their present recreation to be as rational and
innocent as the enjoyment of a violin, which
was occasionally played by the reverend gen-
tleman.

The Marcjuesau language affords a link be-
tween the 'rahitiaii and Hawaiian dialects, and
has also some striking peculiarities. It differs
from the Tahitian, in being deficient in the
letter r, and in the letter k being prominently
employed ; and from the Hawaiian, in possess-
ing the letter /, as well as in the defitnency of
the r. In common with both the above dia-
lects, however, it has no sibilants ; and is also
destitute of the letter g, and most other harsh
consonants. The strict sound of the letter r, as
in the English words rove or around., is never
heard in the Marquesan tongue ; but only that

336

MARQUESAN DIALECT.

which it bears in the words car or afar ; and
this arises from the letter a having the broad
and French sound usually assigned to it in all*
the Polynesian dialects. Tlie Tahitian words
taro, the cocos-root ; repo, dirt ; raau, i^ood :
are pronounced by this people as ta'o^ 'epb, and
kaau. Although the majority of words in the
Marquesan vocabulary accord well with those
in use amongst the Society and Sandwich Is-
landers, some few are totally ’dissinular, as will
be seen in the following examples ; •

larqupsan.

Taliitian.

Hawaiian.

mother

ki . .

. mediui-va-

. ihc^tua-va

bine

bine

the sun

ornate .

. mahdna

. ra

good . .

motdki .

. mnitdi .

. maibai

wise

kanaltdu

. padri .

. akania^

bread-fruit

me'l .

. maiore .

. nrit

a dog . .

ndhe

. uri .

. lUo

to speak .

tikdu .

. pa mil .

. oi'ero

to know .

dnn .

. Ife . .

. ike

no . . .

kuri

, aifa

. aore

to-morrow

oioi

. ahobo

. apopo

Salutation
of meeting J

ekaua

, rndnava *

. aroha

Salutation ]
of parting J

apai .

. io net oe

. ardha

The ancient term.

PRODUCE. — MANUFACTURES.

337

Although Santa Christina has no commerce,
it is capable of producing many of the more va-
luable exports of tropical countries. The wild
cotton, growing in great abundance on the
stony hills, is superior to the cultivated cotton
of many islands ; the wool gushing from the
pods to file length of six or eiglit inches, by
thre(^ or four in breadth. The sugar-cane, cul-
tivated by*the^ natives, is also abundant, large
in growth, and of excellent quality. Much
cocoa-nut oil and arrow-root might be pro-
duced froin the inattTials the soil affords ; but
the Marcpiesans are not acquainted with the
mode of 'i>reparing either of tlu'se commodi-
ties.^

Their primn])al manufacnuri's are mats and
bark-cloth. Th(' former are neither large or
neat, and the latter is v<>rv inferior to the cloth
of the Society and Sandwich Islands, and sel-
dom ])ossesses other hues than white or yellow.
The extreme care they take of their cloth — the
high price they jilaye upon it in barter — and
the (•ircumstance of their importing much of it
from Lji Dominica — would imj)!}' that this com-
modity is scarce amongst them. It is true that
the papiT-mulberry shruV) (from which their
cloth is prepar('d) is rare on this island ; but
since the bark of the bread-fruit tree can be

VOL. J.

■L

338

FISHrNG NETS. — CANOES.

obtained in any quantity, I suspect that the
})rincipal cause of the dearth of tapa is indo-
lence, as we never saw the natives occupied in
making it. They receive the mats of the
Sandwich Islands, and the cloth of Tahiti, as
very valuable presents. Their fishing-nets and
lines, as well as scoop-nets, (used for taking the
smaller fry,) are made with a strong and neat
twine, prepared from the bark of the hibiscus
tree, or /m. At the time of our visit the
people of Vaitalui were occupied in making a
public fishing-net, of large dimensions. Men
only were engaged in the task ; and they worked
in an open shed, surrounded by a low stone
wall, on the summit of whi(;h were placed the
globular stones, whitened with coral lime, and
rods, bearing strips of white tapa, which denoted
that the spot was tabooed — and this ap])eared to
be a very excusable superstition, considering the
variable fortunes of fishermen.

Their canoes are few in number, small, and
not at all adai)ted for naval warfare, or for an
aggressive descent upon foreign lands. Some of
them have an ornannmtal appearance, tlu'ir
sides being decorated with stained bark and
feathers ; while others, of a larger class, display
at their prow an erect wooden frame, to which
are fixed idol-images and sfi’eaniers of cloth.

1»0UT OF VAITAHU.

339

But few ports in the Pacific offer greater
facilities for the refreshment of ships than Re-
solution Bay. Supplies of hogs, poultry, and
vegetables, are abundant, of excellent quality,
and may be obtained on very easy terms. Wood
and water are equally available ; and, as long as
the present good understanding exists between
the natives and Europeans, the latter may
ramble over the island without apprehension. In
exchange for their commodities, the people alone
require and value muskets and ammunition, hard-
ware, tobacco, and Sperm Whales’ teeth ; though
the value of the last-named article of traffic
has been much diminished by the increased
number of South-Seamen visiting this island.
At the ordinary rate of barter, seven fine hogs
may be obtained for a musket; (valued at
about fifteen shillings in England :) a few small
bags of gunpowder purchase a ship’s supply of
fire-wood, cut by the natives, or a stock of
sweet-potatoes ; two gun-flints, or a piece of to-
bacco, is the price of a large fowl ; and fruits are
(*qually cheap. No port-charges are made ; but,
by a late regulation, the chief of Vaitahil re-
ceives a musket from every ship that takes
water from his territory.

The treacherous disposition of these, in com-
mon with all other Marquesan Islanders, makes

340

TIIRACHKUY OF THK NATIVES.

it imperative upon every commander visiting
their ports, to have his ship well armed, to
keep a good night-watch, to clear his vessel of
natives at sun-set, and, above all, to maintain
fair dealing in his commercial transactions with
the people. A reflecting crew is also essential
to the success of his precautions ; for it has
occurred, that while the commander has felt
secure in his pr(‘paratiojis, his every cannon
lias been secretly unloaded by the sailors, and
their charges expended in traffic with the na-
tives : the first intimation the captain received
of the fact, being through the satirical remarks
of the Marciuesans themselves. The more
barbarous islanders of this group will often
trepan the master or officers of a ship, and keep
them captive in their mountain fastnesses until
a sufficient ransom is offered. This insidious
outrage is much dreaded liy navigators, and
makes them cautious in their socual intercourse
with all the islands.

The natives will sometimes cajiture small
vessels, at anchor off their shores, by approatdi-
ing them in the dead of the night and making
a large ([uantity of (;ordagc fast to their hawser,
when, the latter lieing cut, the islanders by their
united force draw the vessel upon the beach and
wre:,“k her. A similar stratagem is also practised,

VISIT OF THE DAUNTLESS.

341

when a boat is lying oflf the beach, in deep
water, to trade with the natives ; the latter,
always expert in the water, will dive off, se-
cretly fasten a rope to some part of the boat,
and draw it suddenly on shore ; when the crew,
surprised and placed in a defenceless position,
fall an easy sacrifice. A few years ago, two
boats from the English South-Seaman Coquette,
sent ashore to procure supplies from La Domi-
nica, were seized by the natives of that island,
and their crews (with the exception of two
individuals) massacTcd. A British ship-of-war
w<Ts sent to revenge this outrage, but, upon her
.arrival at La Dominica, found no fields to fight
or forts to storm; the natives had retired to the
interior ; .and after much expenditure of ammu-
nition, the return of killed and wounded amounted
to little more than a few cocoa-nut trees and some
native huts ; while upon the suhsequent visits of
South-Seamen, the islanders came off in their
canoes to offer for barter the iron shot the cannon
of the Dauntless had deposited on their soil ;
shrewdly judging, that they would prove of more
value to their foreign visiters th.an to them-
selves.

It cannot be denied, that the conduct of some
few reckless or unprincipled masters of ships
lias often permitted the Marquesans to extenuate
their treachery under the name of retaliation ;

THE ABORIGINAL HOG.

342

and this is the more to be regretted, as the
innocent often suffer for the guilty — the un-
tutored savage regarding all white men as inha-
bitants of the same island, united in a com-
mon interest, and consequently responsible for
each others actions.

The only white residents at Santa Christina
(excepting the missionaries) were three English
and American sailors, who lived contentedly
amongst the natives, and cultivated some land.
One of them had so far adapted himself to the
customs of his adopted country as to have his
face profusely tatooed in the native manner.
In the valley of Abatoni we saw a little girl, who
was a half-caste between the British and Mar-
quesan nations ; her complexion was fair, and
her features peculiarly delicate and interesting.

The natural productions of Tahuata are much
the same as those of the Society Islands. The
hogs still exhibit, in great purity, the gaunt fonn,
acute snout, arched back, high tail, pricked ears,
and small deer-like feet, of the aboriginal Poly-
nesian breed. Their prevailing colour is black,
or greyish-black ; their bristles are long and
shaggy, and the skin beneath has a thick cover-
ing of short crisped hair, closely resembling
wool. The old boars have tusks of vast size,
(which they use to rend asunder the cocoa-nuts,)
and a skin of extraordinary thickness. Some of

BIRDS. — FISH. INSECTS.

343

these hogs are partially domesticated; while
others run wild on the hills, and can only be cap-
tured by hard hunting, or by setting fire to the
thickets in which they lurk. Goats and cats, the
latter called p6tu by the natives, are the only
exotic quadrupeds.

Domestic fowls are numerous and excellent.
They are seldom eaten by the natives, although
no superstition prohibits the using them as food.
The greater number live in a free state, amongst
the groves ; but some few are kept in cages,
and much petted by their owners. Amongst
the amphibious birds of the coast, we noticed
a species of booby, of an uniform white colour.
We left on the island a pair of Moscovy ducks,
from the Sandwich group, and it is to be hoped
they will prove the origin of a numerous race of
this useful and prolific bird.

The only fish on the coast which we had not
noticed at the Society and Sandwich Islands,
was a species of Ccesio, in size and form re-
sembling a herring, and delicately coloured
pink and blue, with a yellow lateral line. They
are taken in great numbers, and eaten by the
natives. The insects we found here were the
spectre-mantis; CPhasma;) a purple butterfly,
common also to the Society Islands ; a gigantic
centipede ; cockroaches ; domestic flies, tikaue
of the natives ; ants ; and a few mosquitos, nono.

344

I'RUIT-TREKS.

The cockroaches, kohaha, which infest the native
huts, are of a kind that I have seen in no other
country. They are small, of a dark-chesnut
colour, and have wing-cases as perfeet and
dense in structure as those of coleopterous
insects ; their odour is powerful, but less fetid
than that of the more common species of Blatta.

The vegetation of Tahuata includes all the
edible kinds indigenous to the Society Islands,
with the single exception of the vi. ('Spoudias
fluids.) The Tahitian name of this fruit-tree,
however, is applied by these islanders to the
exotic Papaw. Fruit-trees, as the cocoa-nut,
bread-fruit, Eugenia, and South-Sea ehesnut,
cover such extensive tracts of land, as rather to
merit the title of forests than that of groves.
Certainly, in no part of the world can a spot l)e
found, of similar extent to one of tin* vidleys of
this island, capable of producing, sj)ontaneously,
a more abundant supply of human food of the
most wholesome and agreeable description — a
state of fertility which is not peculiar to any one,
but common to all the valleys.* Sugar-cane,

^ A laudable custom obtains with this people oi planting
fruit-trees (and more especially the bread-fruit) upon the
birth of children, to ensure their future subsistence : hence
il is probable, that the garden-like aspect of each valley is
not a greater ])roof of the fertility of the soil than of the
[u ndent policy the inhabitants.

THK PAN PALM.

345

kava, paper-mulberry tree, and turmeric, are .
confined to plantations. The turmeric, hena,
in particular, being considered too valuable from
its use in the toilette, to remain a wildling,
as at other of the Polynesian isles. The moun-
tain- and marsh-taro grow wild and neglected ;
the only root the natives cultivate for food
being the sweet-potatoe. The exotic esculents
are oranges ; (which are as yet scarce;) papaws ;
pumpkins, superior in size and flavour to any
we elsewhere obtained ; and capsicums, called
by the natives neva. The castor-oil plant (Ri-
dnus) grows vigorously on all parts of the
island, and its exotic origin is questionable.
We introduced to the garden of the mission-
aries, the water-melon of the Sandwich Islands.

The sheltered hills are densely clothed with
verdure, including the gloomy foliage of the
Casuarina tree, and the elegant form of the
mountain-plantain. The more arid and exposed
highlands are covered with a low and sturdy
tree-fern, ( Gleichenia po/i/podioides,) or with
thick('ts of tall reeds ; C^»cchartini spontaueum ;J
whilst occasional topes of the Fan-palm, vahdtia,
(which occurs at this island, although a stranger
to the Society and Sandwich groups,) are con-
spicuous above all other vegetation for the
beautiful and truly oriental character of their
foliage.

346

ROAPOA.

CHAPTER XI.

Leave Santa Christina— Visit Roapoa — Its position—
Anchorages — Coast scenery — The ship visited by
natives — Land our Marquesan passengers — Departure
—Second visit to Raiatea — Death of Mr. Loxton —
Altered condition of the islanders — Their moral and
physical degradation by the abuse of ardent spirits — •
Journey to the siimniit of a mountain, to investigate
some natural phenomena described by the natives —
Island of Tahaa — Geological observations — Departure
from Raiatea — Visit Maurua — Beauties of its lagoon-
water — Trade wdth the natives — General description of
the island and its inhabitants — Natural productions of
the soil — Its geological character — Tubui, or Motu-iti
— Visit Caroline Island — 8end two boats on shore —
Discover a boat entrance into the lagoon — Form and
structure of the island — Its natural productions — Snowy
terns — Boobies — Peculiar species of sliark — Hermit-
lobsters — Vegetation — Quit the lagoon by the reef-
aperture — Hazardous situation of the boat.

Leaving Santa Christina on the 4th of March,
we stood to the N. W. ; and on the following
day hove to off Port Jarvis, on the western side
of the island of Roapoa. This latter is one of
the Marquesas, and situated in lat. 9" 30' S.,

COAST SCENERY.

347

long. 140“ W. It is about the same size as
Tahuata, and equally elevated, rocky, and bold.
The land extends in a direction nearly north
and south ; the summits of many of its moun-
tains presenting conspicuous columns, spires,
or pinnacles of rock. Its S. E. extremity is re-
markable for a table-mountain, topped on each
side by a lofty spire ; on its south side there are
three islets of volcanic rock, which have been
named, from their respective forms, “ Church-
island,” “ Gunner’s-quoin,” and “ Sugar-loaf.”
The western side of the land abounds in popu-
lous villages, and affords several convenient
anchorages, which have been visited by a few
South-Seamen, though the island- is generally
but little known or frequented. One of the two
most convenient anchorages is situated off a
village on the S. W. coast ; the other is Port
Jarvis, above-mentioned, a small bay, affording
anchorage in eighteen fathoms, with convenient
su[)plies of wood and water.

No island we had yet seen appeared to us so
perfectly beautiful as Roapoa, when -viewed from
the ocean on its western side. Its valleys, open-
ing upon the sea as smiling amphitheatres, co-
vered with a luxuriant vegetation, have a tran-
quil, picturesque, and very inviting aspect ; while
the hills in their rear, seen in perspective, are
lightly timbered with the Casuarina and other

348 INTERVIEW WITH THE NATIVES.

trees, well adapted to the character of the soil
they occupy. From this coast, the island of
Nuuhiva is distinctly visible, thirty miles dis-
tant ; and the islands La Dominica and Santa
Christina, sixty miles distant, may be more
faintly discerned. If it appears remarkable, that
Mendana, in his discovery of the Marquesas,
should have left Captain Cook to discover Hood’s
Island, which is so close to La Dominica, it is
yet more remarkable that Cook should have
failed to discover Roapoa, which, on a seriuie day,
may be seen with the naked eye from the beach
at Resolution Bay, Santa Christina.

Many natives of this island came off to us in
their canoes, and expressed much disappoint-
ment that we would not anchor and trade with
them. They appeared to be a handsome race
of people. Several, who came on board, wore,
no other covering than a girtUe of bark-rojic,
well adapted to withstand the action of sea-
water. Die principal man amongst them, named
Teima, brought with him a written list of the
ships that had visited the island, as well as a
chart of the coast ; vvhii^h last, although roughly
sketched, was correct, and might be found sit-
viceable in guiding shijiping to the anchoragi's
and villages. We (xmld not ascertain who was
the author of these manuscripts.

We presented our Marquesan passengi^rs with

nEATH OF AIR. LOXTON.

349

some gifts that were valuable in their esteem,
and landed them at Port Jarvis. They had met
with several friends and relatives amongst the
natives who boarded us, but, beyond the cere-
mony of the honi, or touching noses, no parti-
cular marks of recognition passed between
them. IVivau was the most noticed by his
countrymen, who called upon his name, with
joy, as they paddled their canoes towards the
vessel. This chief was anxious to delay the
ship until he could send us some hogs, as a
token of his gratitude ; but his offer was de-
clined, and after a few hours’ detention we made
sail from the island.

Light airs and calms kept us in sight of the
various islands of this group until the 1 0th of
March, when winds from N. E. and N. W.
enabled us to continue our cruise in the di-
rection of th(' Society Islands.

On the 18th of March we again anchored olf
the settlement of Utumaoro, island of Raiatea.
Upon communicating with the land, we heard,
with regret, that our late fellow-voyager, Mr.
Loxton, whom wc had left here usefully em-
ployed as a missionary, had perished from an
attack of dysentery, four months after our last
de})arturc from the island. His widow, with a
posthumous infant; had sailed for England, and

350 ALTERED STATE OF THE RAIATEANS.

Raiatea was again destitute of any European
pastor.

We werfe painfully impressed with the un-
favourable change that had taken place in the
state of this settlement since our visit of the
preceding year — an air of gloom pervaded the
spot — the few natives who visited the ship be-
trayed in their haggard countenances and
slovenly dress the worst effects of debauchery —
the cultivation of their lands had been neglected ;
and the scanty supplies they offered for sale bore
exorbitant prices. The settlement itself bore
the aspect of a deserted village : its finest huts
were in ruins, and many of them deserted by
their owners. The chief, Tamatoa, was literally
keeping “ open house”^ — the wattle and plaster
walls of his dwelling affording man;|^ more aper-
tures for entrance than the architect had de-
signed. The former inhabitants of the settle-
ment, no longer induced •by the presence of a
missionary to congregate in one spot, had for
the most part dispersed over the island, for the
convenience of residing on their own estates ;
leading in Utumaoro none hut the dissolute,
the diseased, or those who were retained there
by public duties, or by their engagements with
foreign shipping.

The remote occasion of this lamentable change

CONDUCT OF TAMATOA.

351

was the want of a missionary to advise and con-
trol the people ; but the immediate cause was
the extent to which the abuse of ardent spirits
prevailed amongst the natives at this time.
Many American whalers had recently visited the
island, and given the natives rum, in exchange
for their supplies ; and during our stay, a French
schooner lay at anchor off the settlement,
freighted with spirit, to barter with the islanders
for cocoa-nut oil. Of the conduct of royalty,
under these unpleasant circumstances, I feel
reluctant to speak ; but candour compels me to
say, that for more than the first fortnight of our
stay at this port it was rarely that either Ta-
matoa or his consort were in a state of perfect
sobriety.

The health of the royal chief had suffered
materially from his intemperate mode of life, and
he applied to me for medical aid. I represented
to him the inefficiency df medicine to effect his
cure, unless he discontinued his present system
of dissipation, when, partly influenced by my ad-
vice, but more by the opportune expenditure of a
keg of spirit, which he had obtained from a “ tem-
perate” ship, he immediately adopted a rigorous
abstinence, of which his former habits would have
declared him incapable, and in a short time was
perfectly recovered.

352

MOUNTAIN PHENOMKNA.

The natives often spoke to us of some natural
curiosities which were to he seen in the interior
of this island : one, they told us, was a deep pit,
1at the summit of a high mountain ; the other a
precipice, near the same spot, and where, if a
cloth or. other light substance was thrown over
the brink, it would be returned by the upward
pressure of the air ; buf their description of
these two phenomena was so vague, as to lead
Europeans, who trusted only to their accounts,
to believe that the two were identical ; and
that it was the pit which emitted the violent
wind.*

On the,2()th of March I set out, in company
with two native guides, to explore this region of
w'orglers. After emerging from the* entangled
forests of the lowlands we aseendtkl a succession
of steep hills, which conducted to a lofty range
of mountain, oecupyfng the centre of the island
and extending in a direction nearly north and
south. In an early_ part of this ascent, we,

* Thi.s erron^us riew of the subject lias liecn adopted
by Mr. Williains, in bis*4‘ Slissionary Enterprises in tlie
•South Seas,”j_and reasott^S upon ai;cordin,!;ly. It is to be
regretted that this gentletpun (who was for many years a
resident Raiat^) did not ascend the mountain and
investigate its phenomena for himself. Jiis knowledge of
the natives’ character should, at least, have led him to
receive all their statements cum grano salis.

THE PARI.

358

passed the pari, ov precipice, so much lauded
by the natives for the beauty of its scenery ; its
back, or eastern aspect, is a steep and verdant
hill ; its verge a ridge of rock, rising a few feet
above the brow of the hill ; while its face is a
precipice several hundred feet in*- depth, its
slope and ledges covered with underwood and
trees. It commands a very extensive and ro-
mantic view of the neighbouring lands and
ocean, but is, on the whole, very inferior in
scenic attractions to the pari of Anuanu, at the
island of Oahu. On a more elevated spot, named
Jiu&o, I was shown a capacious cavet’n, to which
the natives attaclied the legend, that it was at
one time o(;cupied by a kind of ogre, who was
accustomed to* issue forth and kill and devour the
people who passed near the haunted spot. Acre,
as also^^t the pari, the rocks were covered with
the naiiaes and initials of ^ natives, who had thus
recorded their visit to the respective places.

As we continued to ascend in a southerly
direction, the scenery commanded from our
elevated position becatpe. truly magnificent.
Vegetation, though abufi&ant, differed essen-
tially ill* its character from that of the lower
lands: tree-ferns were particr^ply numerous;
and in the ravines, groves of the mountain-
plantain flourished vigorously. The tempera-
vou. - A

354

VOLCANIC CRATER.

ture of the atmosphere was also materially
changed — the warm and balmy breeze of the
lowlands being exchanged for cold and eddying
gusts of wind.

After a journey of six hours, we attained the
summit of the loftiest mountain in the centre of
this island. Its elevation is about 2000 feet
above the level of the sea ; its summit is a capa-
cious level plain, mantled with clouds, of bleak
and dreary appearance, spread with numerous
swamps, and streams of water passing over a
red rock, and destitute of all vegetation, except-
ing a short grass and moss. On the western
declivity of this mountain, a short distance
below its summit, and on a spot named Tamahari,
I was shown the natural excavation in the soil
of which we ■ had before heard. It is called by
the natives Apoiuta ; is of circular form ; and
resembles a large welj, artificially sunk in the
rock. Its depth is about forty feet, its circum-
ference thirty-five ; and the bottom is formed by
a vast accumulation of loose stones. A solitary
Pandanus-tree, growing in a rocky ledge within
its orifice, is called by the natives tukeine fara,
or sister Pandanus, from the circumstance of a
second, or brother shrub, haVing formerly grown
in its society. Two furrows of naked red rock
extend from the entrance of the pit for some

WATERFALL OF WAINIA.

355

yards down the mountain’s slope. They run
parallel to each other, at a short distance apart,
like the ruts of a waggon, and each has on its
surface eminences and depressions, which, to an
active imagination, might appear as the impress
of footsteps. To these my guides attached the
legend, that two men, fishing in the pit, had
each caught a large fish ; when, walking up to its
orifice, in pulling in their lines, they secured
the latter to the twin Pandanus shrubs above
mentioned, one of which corresponded to the
commencement of each rocky furrow. The
general appearance of this pit led me to believe
that it was a small volcanic crater, or chimney,
very few of which are known to exist in the
Society Isles. My guides informed me that a
second and similar excavation is. to be seen on
the same mountain, but we had not time to
visit it.

From the excavation at Tamahari, a short and
abrupt descent brought us to the verge of a
perpendicular precipice, whence a lofty cascade
of great beauty emptied itself into a ravine
below. This spot is named Wainia. The de-
scription the natives had given us of an upward
current of air, and which we had associated with
the pit, applied only to this place. The face of
the precipice bore an eastern aspect, and the

2 A 2

356

TAHAA.

Strong trade-winds, rushing through the narrow
ravine, acquired sufficient power to cast back
a portion of the cascade in the form of a shower,
as well as to return any light garment thrown
over the steep.

It is remarkable, that in the streams flowing
over this elevated mountain and supplying the
cascade, we found eels, and several other varie-
ties of fish. A great extent of the soil around
W linxa is covered with low bushes of Lobelia
arborea, bearing large white flowers. The latter
are much valued as ear-ornaments by the native
females, who call them the mountain tiiri, in
contradistinction to the common tdri, or Cape
Jassamine, of the lowlands.

On the 2nd of April 1 visited Tahaa. This
island lies due north of Raiatea, from which it is
separated by a navigable channel, not exceed-
ing two miles in breadth. The coral barrier-reef,
common to both islands, is somewhat indented
at the point where the latter approach each
other; and that portion of it which surrounds
Tahaa permits free navigation for ships round the
tranquil water it encloses. There are two good
harbours: the one on the south east and the
other on the west side of the island ; but neither
of them are frequented by foreign shipping,
Tahaa is mountainous, though smaller and less

REMARKABLE ROCKS.

‘.ih7

elevated than Raiatea. Many small coral islets,
covered with cocoa-nut palms, spangle the sea
off its north coast, and present a very pic-
turesque appearance.

The principal settlement is on the S.E. side of
the island. It possesses a missionary residence
and a church. The latter, which is built in a
very primitive style, is based upon a square
platform of coral blocks, erected in the midst of
the shallow water of the shore-reef, and commu-
nicates with the village by two causeways, also
constructed of coral stone. The inhabitants are
not numerous, and (diiefly consist of Raiateans
and Borabora people. No missionary has re-
sided amongst them since the departure of Mr.
Smith, who was landed here from the Tuscan,
about the y(*ar 1830, and who resigned his office
after the lapse of a few months.

At the distance of about a hundred yards
from the shore, off the southern extremity of
this settlement, there is an islet of black rock,
which affords a remarkable exam])le of a volcanic
structure raised in the midst of an extensive
coral reef. A similar, but much loftier volcanic
rock, which must also rise from a coral bed,
occupies nearly the centre of the strait between
. this island and Raiatea, and, at a distance, bears
so close a resemljlance to a ship under sail that

358

MAURUA.

a very near approach is required to destroy the
illusion. The mountains in the interior of this
island possess, also, some rocks of strange form :
to one of these the natives assign the name and
semblance of a red dog; a second they call
a fish-hook, and tell us, in their legends, that it
was employed in fishing by their heathen god
Hiro — a long spit of coral reef, projecting from
the coast into the sea, having served as his
fishing-line.

We left Raiatea at noon on the 14th of April,
and at sunset on the same dtiy hove to off the
island of Maurufi, or Maupiti. On the following
morning two boats were sent ashore to trade
with the natives for a supply of yams. On ap-
proaching the land, we found that the barrier-
reef, which encircles it, afforded but one narrow
entrance ; and even this was occupied by power-
ful and rapid rollers, which were anything but
inviting. A canoe, fishing in the offing, enabled
us to obtain a pilot ; when, taking advantage of
a tranquil interval, we i)ushed through the swell,
and passed, by an abrupt transition, into the
vast expanse of lagoon water that intervenes
between the reef and the main land.

It is impossible to imagine a scene more per-
fectly beautiful than the one presented to our
view as we glided through this placid sea, and

LAGOON SCENERY.

359

towards the land, which rose towering, rocky,
and isolated, at the distance of about three miles
ahead of us. On every side, a broad sheet of
sleeping water, mapped out in various hues,
corresponding with its depth, contrasted
strongly with the turbulence of the ocean out-
side the reef ; while the bosom of the lagoon was
strewn with many coral islets, level, circular,
and often of great extent ; their shores girded
by a sandy beach of dazzling whiteness ; and
their soil covered with cocoa-nut palms, Pan-
danus and Casuarina trees, as well as with a
short and verdant pasturage, unencumbered
by any other underwood than a few bushes of
Cape Jassamine. Here and there a solitary
hut appeared amidst the foliage of these motus ;
and some small goats (probably left here by a
ship,) ceased to browse on our approach, and
followed the boats along the beach, bleating forth
a plaintive recognition. The serenity of the morn-
ing, and the sweet odour of Pandanus flowers,
combined to increase the attractions of this en-
chanting spot, and to convey to us an impres-
sion on which memory yet dwells with extreme
pleasure.

Upon landing at the principal village on the
coast, we were received by a crowd of natives,
and conducted to the royal chief of the island,

360

COAST AND COUNTUY.

to whom we explained the object of our visit.
The people soon after brought the produce of
their lands to a large shed, set apart for trans-
acting public business ; and although traffic
was at first impeded by the exorbitant price
they set upon their commodities, this difficulty
was soon removed, and we obtained the supplies
we required on very reasonable terms. Maurua
is situated about forty miles to the N. W. of
Raiatea, and is distinctly visible with the naked
eye from the coast hills of the latter island.
It is small, comparatively elevated, and about
six miles in circumference. It is completely
surrounded by a barrier-reef of coral, at the
distance of three miles from the shore, but
the corres])onding lagoon-sea is too shallow to
admit vessels of ii greater burden than one
hundred and fifty tons. Tlie interior of th(‘
land is almost entirely composed of hills, wooded
to their summits, and occasionally crested with
cocoa-nut trees ; while the sea-coast presents
numerous rugged and mural cliffs. Oin^ cliff,
on the S. W. side, opposite to the opening in
the reef, rises to the height of several hundred
feet, resembles the ruins of a gigantic castle,
and divides the island into two nearly equal
))ortions.

The bird’s eye view commanded from the hills

tHE ROYAL CHIEF, TAIRO.

361

is exceedingly pleasing : in addition to much
romantic mountain scenery, it includes the blue
ocean in the distance, the harrier-reef marked
as a ring of lofty surf, and the verdant islets
and tranquil surface of the basin around the
coast — the shallower waters being white with
coral sand on which they rest ; while the deeper
are mapped out in the form of channels or bays,
of a green colour, with many black and rugged
(;oral rocks rising above their surface in strong
relief.

The population of Maurua is small, and would
be overrated at 1000 persons — the result of a
census made by the missionaries in 1828. The
dwellings of the natives are, for the most part,
cleaner and better constructed than those at
either Tahiti or Raiatea. Some of them are
erected upon a stone platform, about two feet
high, after the manner of the Marquesan huts ;
others are partitioned into apartments; and a
few are surrounded by cultivated lands, neatly
enclosed.

Tairo, (who bears also the l7a})tismal name of
Noah,) the priucij)al chief of the island, is a tall
and robust young man, with agreeable features.
He visited the Tuscan in his canoe, and passed
one night on board. We were much impressed
in his favour — his manner was bland, sedate.

362 MORAL CONDITION OP THE NATIVES.

and courteous ; he seemed to possess great in
fluence with his people; and his conduct to-
wards us was highly hospitable. He has one
child by a former wife, but no family by his
present consort, Taiuri Pea-pea, a Tahitian fe-
male.

The spiritual charge of these islanders is en-
trusted to the English missionary at Borabora*
who pays them occasional visits to superintend
their religious affairs, while an ora medua, or
native teacher, officiates as his deputy at the
Christian church of the settlement. The abuse
of ardent spirits is here rigorously interdicted ;
but the primitive dances to the music of the
hoe, or reeds, were much practised during our
stay, and were probably got up for our amuse-
ment. The females were bold in their amours ;
and the people generally were more prone to
petty larceny than was altogether creditable to
their morals. It was unfortunate that, not-
withstanding the confidence I always placed in
Polynesian natives, it was only amongst these
people that I ever experienced a loss by theft.

Tlie political interests of Maurua would ap-
pear to be blended with those of Borabora ; the
latter island having received assistance from the
former during its late conflict with Raiatea. It
was with surprise that we found amongst the na-

NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.

363

tives of this secluded, and apparently peaceful
island, a considerable demand for muskets and
ammunition.

The comparatively low elevation and small
size of Maurua deprive it of those mountain
streams which are so numerous in most other
islands of the Society group. A few rocky ex-
cavations filled with rain-water obtain in the
highlands, and on the coast there are some
pools supplied by springs ; yet, on the whole,
fresh water is even less abundant here than at
Pitcairn’s Island.

The natural productions are nearly the same
;is at other of the Society Isles. Amongst the
littoral vegetation, the Barringtonia and Tunina
(Ricinm mappa) trees are pecidiarly prominent.
The guava-shrub has been introduced, and the
dryness of the soil does not permit its too rapid
increase. The mountain-plantain is rare, and
confined to a few plants which have been im-
ported from other islands. We noticed a small
quantity of the ape, or mountain-taro, under
cultivation ; but, owing to the absence of
swampy lands, the aquatic species is not found
here. The same dry and hilly soil, however,
that opposes the cultivation of the taro, and
limits the supply of bread-fruit, encourages the
natives to cultivate yams and pumpkins ; and

364

GEOLOGY.

thus confers an inestimable boon upon ships
navigating these seas. The motus, or coral
islets, afford a greater extent of level soil than
is to he found on the main-land, and from the
cocoa-nuts and Tacca plants they produce, the
islanders prepare vast quantities of oil and
arrow-root, whi(!h are taken away by small
vessels, calling here for that purpose.*

It is said that primitive rocks obtain at
Maurua ; but we did not observe any, and such
is not, certainly, the prevailing geological cha-
racter of the country ; like other of the Society
Isles, it is composetl of volcanic rock ; and lavas,
tufa, and slag, are j)lentifully strewn over its
surface. A basaltic stone, found chiefly in the
ele\ ated lands, is miu'h priz(Hl by the natives of
all the Society Islands for the manufacture of
the penm, or pestles, with which they prepare
their food ; its principal recommendations for
this use being compactness and weight, a jetty
blackness, and a capacity for taking a lively
polish.

Two days were spent in obtaining our sup-
])lies j and on the evtming of the 1 6 th of April
we sailed from this island in company with two
canoes, which had taken advantage of a westerly

^ Fntil tlie arrival of the Tuscan, no larj^c vessel had
visited this island for more than two years.

CAROLINE ISLAND.

365

wind to proceed to Raiatea and Borabora*
When at the distance of thirty miles N, E. of
Maurua, we passed close to Tuhai, or Motu-iti,
a small, rocky, and uninhabited island, remark-
able for little more than its being the northern-
most land of the Society group, and as having
been formerly a kind of preserve, whence the
royal chiefs of Tahiti obtained their supplies of
the tail feathers of the tropic-bird.

When winds permitted, we shaped a course
to the northward, upon the parallel of about
l.'iO'* W. long. At night, on the 22nd of April,
many shoal-birds came about the ship, greeting
us with their hoarse cries, so prophetic of the
vicinity of land ; and at daybreak on the fol-
lowing morning, Caroline Island* was seen from
the mast-head, bearing N. W., distant 1 0 miles.
It had the appearance of a very low strip of
land, extending north and south, covered with
verdure, and encircled by a beach of white sand.
We low<‘red two boats and effected a landing

* A low and uninhabited coral forma! ion, discovered
by Lieut. i>rouiz:bton, and named by him in honour of the
eldest daughter of the then first lord of the Admiralty,
lie gives its position r>7' S. hit., ’io W. long., and
which appeart‘d to us to he correct. Jt lies due north ot
the island of Eirneo, Society group, from which it is dis-
tant about three days’ sail.

366

CAROLINE ISLAND :

upon its western side. The entire island does
not exceed five miles in circumference, and is
composed of several small circular peninsulas,
arranged in a crescentic, and nearly circular
form, and each connected to the other by a low
isthmus of sand, shingle, or dry reef, which, judg-
ing from its appearance, might at one time have
given passage to the sea. A capacious lagoon,
belted by a sandy beach, occupies the centre of
the land, and is protected on its eastern or
weather side by a barrier coral reef, against
which a heavy surf breaks constantly.

The peninsula that forms the southern ex-
tremity of the land is much larger than any of
the others ; and it was on the broad and sandy
isthinu^^ which connects this to the adjoining
peninsula that we landed. The boat was borne
by her crew across this sandy tract, and launched

ITS STRUCTURE.

367

upon the lagoon, for the purpose of ascertaining
if there was any navigable communication be-
tween its waters and the ocean. No trace of
such a convenience was visible, however, ex-
cepting at the barrier-reef, where we discovered
an aperture which was sufficiently broad to per-
mit the boat to pass into the open sea and to re-
turn without difficulty, although a surf of extreme
grandeur and impetuosity broke on the rocks
within two oars’ length on either side. The
lagoon-sea is for the most part very shallow,
though there are some narrow channels in which
it is several fathoms deep. It sleeps in the em-
brace of the land, unruffled by the slightest
wave, and is nearly surrounded by vegetation.
Its shallower waters contained myriads of small
fish ; and in its greater depths, many species of
large size, gaudy colours, and often of very
strange forms, could be seen moving slowly
through dense groves of tree-coral. On its
shoal reefs, beche-de-mer, star-fish, sepise, and
many varieties of shell-fish, were scattered in
great profusion. But few objects in nature pre-
sent a more interesting and animated picture
than a coral reef in tranquil water, and no reefs
we had seen could compete with those of Caro-
line Island for novelty and beauty.

The structure of this island offers no mate-

368

COAST-RKKFS. — TIDES.

rial but coral, in all its various forms. Its ele-
vation no where exceeds five feet ; while its
shelving shores, and coral rocks, arranged as
terraces each above the other, denote the gra-
dual recession of the ocean from the land it had
so materially assisted to raise. The interior of
the island is a surface of sand, mingled with
coral debris, as well as with decayed vegetable
and animal matters, which give it an increasing
fertility. Each peninsula is covered witli vege-
tation of a highly verdant and pleasing character,
some of the loftier trees attaining the height of
twenty feet. No collection of fresh water is to
be found here ; though, doubtless, as in many
other of the low coral islands, much of good
quality may be procured liy excavating the
sands.

The coast is continuous with an extensive'
reef of compact coral rock, stretching into the
sea to a considerable distance, and thus in-
creasing greatly the actual compass of the
island, while it protects tlu' ('cntral lands from
inundation. At low water a large extent of this
reef is left dry; but when the tide is at its
height, a boat may, with care, be floated to the
verge i)f the wooded land. From the singh'
observation made during our stay, it would ap-
pear to be low water on this coast at 9 a. m.,
and high W'ater at 2^ or 3 i’. M .

FRTGATE BIRUS

369

This island is very seldom visited, although it
is usually “ sighted” by South-Seamen, when on
their way from the Society Islands to the North
Pacific!. About seven years previous to our
visit, Captain Stavers had landed on its shores
and left some hogs, but no traces of the present
existence of those animals were visible to us.
That some ship had lately touched here was
evident, however, from several of the cocoa-nut
trees haA’irig been rc'ccntly cut down to obtain
their fruit — a practice often dangerous when
these trees afford important land-marks to navi-
gators, and one at all times selfish and mischie-
AX)us, and more particularly so hei’c, where
(!Ocoa-nut palms although increasing in number
arc! as yet but few.

The only c[U'idrupecls vvc* saw here were rats
of a red- brown colour. Amphibious birds were
exceedingly numerous. Myriads of frigate-
birds, engagc-d in fishing at a short distance
from the coast, followed our lK)at, and hovered
as a dark cloud over thc' island. Thcnr curiosity
(and no creatures c-oulcl bettcT e\])ress that fec‘1-
ing by thcnr actions) incluc*ed them to a])proaeh
us vc>ry closely, wheeling round our hcnuls Avith
cnicjuiring attitudes whic'h plainly demanded who
we were ? and what was our business on their
domain ) One* of tln’in, kuoc*k(*cl down by a boat-

von. I. - I!

370

SNOWY TERNS.

hook, after struggling a few minutes in the sea
again rose and renewed its flight, notwithstanding
the prevalent opinion amongst nautical men,
that these birds are ecjually incapable of rising
from the surface of the water as from level land.
Small white terns { Sterna tiivca) were also as
numerous and familiar as the former birds, and
flew so close to us that W(' captured them with
ease. Thtar ap})earance is delieat(' and beauti-
ful. TIr'v are rather larger than a snipe ; their
plumage snow-white ; their eyes dark and full ;
their beak, and legs of a light blue colour; their
cry is shrill, short, and fr('(juently repeated.*
The greater number of trees on the island
were ()ccuj)ied by boobies, engaged in building

* In appearance and liahit.'^, this snowy-tern corrt'sponds
in a remarkable manner with (lie bird pictured by llyron
in bis sul)liine description of the shipwreck, in Don Juan,
— a scene wliich, as is well known, is monf indebted to
facts tlian poetic imagery for its concentrated horrors. I
refer to tlielDth stanza, when the forlorn boat is approach-
ing land as yet unseen ; —

“ About this time a beautiful while bird,

Webfooted, m-t unlike a dove in size
And plumage, (probably it might have err’d
Upon its course,) pass’ll oft before thidr eyes,

And tried to perch, altho’ it saw and heard
The men witliin the boat, and in this guise
It came and went, and nutter’d round them ’till
Xight fell : this seem’d a better omen still. ’’

VECIILIAH SVRCIES OF UOOBY. 37 1

their nests or in hatching their eggs. In plu-
mage and paint these birds are peculiar. Their
garment is dull-gray, darker on the back and
wing-coverts than on the abdomen ; the tail and
rump are perfectly white. Their beak is blue,
and encircled at its base with a rose-coloured
paint ; the naked skin of the cheeks is also blue,
while that below the lower mandible is black ;
the legs are brick-red. We obtained examples
of both sexes, but covdd observe no appreciable
difference in their appearance. Their nest con-
sisted of a ('ircular layer of dried herbage. Some
trees had six or eight nests on their branches ;
but to build in republic's is not the invariable
practice of this bird, since a few trees had each
only a solitary nest. Most of the nests con-
tained a single egg, of a greenish-white colour,
Sind about a third smaller than that of the do-
mestic hen. We found no newly-hatched birds,
although all the eggs we examined were far
advanced in incubation. The boobies employed
in building their nests were much more shy
than I had anticipated, flying away on the
slightest alarm ; but those that were “ setting
hard,” as the schoolboys say, erected their crest,
sc'reanu'd and threatened on our approach, and
remained firmly on their nests until removed by
force, when tiu'}- went off to sea much dis-

2 I! 2

3/2

NONDESCRIPT SHARK.

contented. Tlie other birds of the coast were a
kind resembling a coot, curlew's, and a species
of Totanus, similar to that we found at Raiatea,
with the exeeption that its legs are lemon-
colour, while in the Raiatean species they are
blue. They frecpient the reefs and feed upon
small crabs. The inland thickets contaimHl a
great number of small pigeons, with white head
and neck, and the rest of their plumage of a
rich brown colour.

Fish are abundant around the coast, and also
in the lagoon. One c.xamiilc, (a species of
Spurns,) taken in the lagoon, widghcd ujiwards
of sev'cnty pounds. Sharks were exc(Kulingly
numerous, and differed in appearance from any
we had elsewhere observc'd ; they are of a light-
gray colour, each of the tins being tippt'd with
black, and the black apex of the dorsal tin having
a broad white band at its inferior border. They
proved very annoying to our boats’ crew, for,
not contented with gorging the hook baited for
other and more savoury prey, they eagerly
grasped the fish that w ere hooked, and devoured
them before the fisherman could secure his
prize. Eels without pectoral
of imm''nse size, and sj)eckle<r black and white,
basked in the pools of the reefs ; and when <lis-
turbed, displayed so much fiereiaiess as rather
to n scinble "-erpents tban fish.

LAND -LOBSTERS.

:373

We observed no lizards or otl\er land am-
phibia ; nor any insects, beyond two species of
butterfly ; the one of small size and white, the
other resembling the purple papUio of Tahiti.
The entire island was covered with hermit-crabs,
or “ land- lobsters,” (Camobita occupying

the shells of Turbo orgynostovia. They bore a
general resemblance to the largest species of
Paguru.s we found in the reef waters of the
Society isles, but dift'ered essentially from it in
generic character, as well as in possessing ter-
restrial habits. The anterior and grustaceous
j)ortion of the animal (or that usually protruded
from its tenement) is bright red, while the
|)ost<‘rior and covered part of the body is flaecad,
.and of a yellow colour. The left forceps claw is
larg(>r than the right, though both are shorter
than the first j)air of legs; the eyes (ophthalmic
))cduneles) are long, .and admir.ably ad.apted to
afford a wide range of vision when the Cicnobita
is closely retracted within the shell it inhabits,
'rheir odour is j)cculiar and disagree.able. They
were for the most p.art assembled in dense
t!rowds,beiu'ath bushes, or in shallow excavations
at the roots of trees ; though some of them,
notwithstanding the (aimbrous shells they
(*arried, weia* clustered on the braiu’hes or in
the crevie('s of trees. It was evidtait that, with

LAND LOBSTKUS.

374

the assistance of their forceps claws, they could
climb a perpendicular heij»;ht with great facility.
It is a curious fact, that the most unique and
elegant univalve sea-shell in my collection was
gathered from the branch of a tree, whither it
had been conveyed by one of these creatures.

When alarmed they retreated, bearing their
shells with them ; but if touched, they shrunk
into the cavity of their dwelling and remained
motionless. They sometimes, though very rarely,
used their forceps in self-defence. When irri-
tated they, produce a shrill croak, alternating
with a rapid succession of sipping sounds. We
preserved several of them alive for many weeks.
They ate both animal and vegetable substances,
as fish, land-crabs, yams, and cocoa-nut. It was
amusing to see them feed, ni])ping off, with
much nicety, a portion of the food with their
forceps, and carrying it to their mouth, where
it was received by the two small appendages in
front of that organ. Night was -their most busy
time. When removed from their borrowed
tenements they easily regained them, and re-
sumed their former position ; while the vast
number of empty shells strewn over the land,
indicated how frequently tlu'y changed their
habitation during their i)rogress to a mature
growth.

COCOA-NUT PALMS.

375

Amongst the many interesting shells strewn
over the reefs and beach, we noticed the wing-
shell, (Pinna,) and a few imperfect specimens of
that rare and valuable species, the orange-cowrie.
The deepest parts of the lagoon contained some
pearl-shells ; and b^che-de-mer, of the black
variety, was scattered in great profusion upon
the reefs. We attem})ted to capture a large
cuttle-fi.sh, which we found imprisoned in a pool
of sea water, hut the instant it was approached,
the animal obscured the water by emitting an
inky fluid, and retreated beneath a block of
(X)ral, to which it adhered so firmly by the
suckers on its arms that all our attempts to
dislodge it were vain.

The v('getation of this island is surprisingly
luxuriant, when compared with the arid soil it
covers. It is chieflv of a littoral character, and
clothes the peninsulas with verdure, almost to
tlie water’s edge. The Society Islanders we had
on board recognised, in all its examples, plants
familiar to their owm shores. Cocoa-nut trees
obtain only on the southern side of the land,
on the verge of the lagoon ; they arc of dwarf
suture ; and although the (juantity of fruit they
produ(^e is great, the nuts are small, and the
fluid they contain ha,s often a brackish taste.
On other parts of the island, as yet unoccupied

G E N ERA L V E G ETA T I O N .

3 /()

by these useful trees, we noticed several ripe
cocoa-nuts cast on the beach, and already be-
ginning to germinate ; while amidst the original
groves, the number of vigorous seedlings fully
confirmed Capt. Stavers’ statement, that these
palms had increased greatly since his last visit
to the spot.

The woodlands are chiefly composed of two
species of Tournefortia. These shrubs were
twelve or fourteen feet high, and cov(>red with
clusters of white flowers, emitting a fragraiuT'
which was perceptible at some distance from tlic
lee side of the island. Pandanus trees also were
somewhat numerous. In some of the inhabited
low cor.'il formations, the fruit of this trc'c (!on-
stitutes almost tlu; only vegetable food of the
people.

The other plants that came under our obser-
vation here, were Morbula citrifolia ; JJeliofro-
pimn niras.soviciim, bearing whit(' odoriferous
flowers, and si)r(‘ad as a dense car|)et over a great
extent of sand}' soil ; Boerlutv 'iu hir.sitfti ; a
species of IJrtica, of very ornamental a])pearance,
the deej) green of its leaves contriusting ])leasingly
with the scarlet hue of its stalks and flowers ;
Portiilam Intca ; a Lepklium of luxuriant growth ;
and a solitary fern, the Polt/podium poh/motodea.

IIA.Z.MIT)0\]S ADVENTUEE,

%11

We planted on the soil the swect-potatoe,
Polynesian arrow-root, and South-Sea chesnut ;
though the unfriendly character of the soil, and
the number of land-crabs that infest it, gave us
but little hope of the experiment succeeding.

Having loaded our boats with cocoa-nuts, we
proceeded to leave the lagoon by the passage we
had discovered in the barrier-reef. Here, how-
ever, our recei>tion was very different from that
which we hfid experienced in the moniing :
heavy squalls had increased the turbulence of
the oc(’an ; the tide had passed its flood, and
ver}' giganti(* l)illows occupied the reef aperture.
It was determined, ncvei'theless, that we should
attempt tlu' ])assagc; and to pass or swim became
the only alternative*. The boat rode over the
first bursts of the swell with surprising case, but
h(‘r loaded condition, and a strong current setting
from the lagoon, did not permit her to rise suffi-
ciently quick to bow the rapid succession of
rollers ; hea\ y seas vvashi'd over her and filled her
to the thwarts; soim* of the crew were obliged
to leave their oars to bale ; others to cast into
the sea a part of our cargo of nuts ; and while we
w(>re in this helpless condition, the sluice of tide,
inishing from the lagoon entrance, carried us
through the rollers into tin* open sea, and
r(‘liev(*d us from a very critical situation. After

378

DEPARTURK.

reflection taught us, that an accident to our
boat at this particular time would have been
attended with more hazard than a mere wetting :
the power of the surf, and the impetuous current
setting from the reef aperture, would have pre-
vented the strongest swimmer from regaining
the land — no aid could be expected from the
ship or our consort-boat, both of which were out
of sight to leeward of the island and unac-
quainted with our proceedings — while in per-
spective, the crowds of hungry sharks we had
noticed around the coast might be seen coming
in for their share of the adventure. On tin*
whole, therefore, we had reason to be satisfied,
and to believe that “ all that is, is right.” In
the evening we reached the ship and, leaving
the land, renewed our course to the northward.

RE-ENTER THE NORTH PACIFIC. 370

CHAPTKIi XII.

Visit Christmas Island — Its discovery and position — Form
and structure of the land — Natural productions — Pecu-
liar species of Hooby — 1 ropic-birds — Eggs of the Snowy
tern — Vegetation — Increase of cocoa-nut palms — Dis-
cover a low coral island — Ouise to the northward —
Hazardous navigation in the North Pacific Ocean — A
vertical sun — Whaling operations — Part of the crew
sufler from eating salted albacore — Remar*ks on “poi-
sonous fish — Return to Oahu — Marriage of Tabu Na-
hienaena — C ollection of a poll-tax — Description of the
salt-pond at Mounaroa — Increasing commerce of the
port of llonoruru.

On tlie 2n(l of May we crossed the Equator
in long. 154® W., and again entered the North
Pacific Ocean. On the afternoon of the 6th,
Christmas Island was in sight, bearing from S.
by E. to W.N.W., and distant eight miles. The
day being far advanced, we tacked and hove to
off the land ; many amphibious birds of noctur-
nal habits (and called by seamen, from their
indications and habits, “shoal-birds,” and “wide-
awakes”) surrounding the ship during the entire
night, screaming with incessant clamour.

380

CHRISTMAS ISLAND,

On the following day we explored the S.W.
side of this island in search of a landing place,
though unsuccessfully. The boats employed
on this service captured plenty of fine fish, how-
ever, on the surf-heaten reef that bounds the
coast. We again hove to at night ; and on the
morning of the 8th stood to the northward,
rounded the western extremity of the land, (a
projecting point,rendered pleasingly conspicuous
by a grove of cocoa-nut trees,) and hove to oft'
the N.W. coast, in a deej) bay which affords
good anchorage in from 18 to 30 fathoms water
within a mile of the shore.

Here a Jagoon-sea, occupying the centre of
the island, is bounded on this its westc'ru aspect
by a long and narrow islet, extending N.aud S.,
and presenting at each extremity a channel,
through which boats may pass to the lagoon
within. We |)ulled through the southernmost
of these passages, and effecting a laiuhng uj)()n
a sandy beach on the S.W. border of the lagoon,
filled two boats with cocoa-nuts, from a grove at
a short distance from the sea side.

Christmas Island was discovered by Captain
Cook, on the 24th of D(;cember, 1 77 / , when on
his way to the N.W. coast of America; and but a
short time before his important disco\ cry of the
Sandwich group. The ships Resolution ami

structurr. 3H1

ITS SIZE, FORM, AND

Discovery cast andiOT off tlie N. W. sidc of thc
land, in tVie bay above mentioned, and where
they remained several days, to enable the
voyagers to observe an approaclnng eclipse of
the sun ; while the Christinas festival, occurring
in the interim, suggested an appropriate name
for the spot. The situation of the islet at the
entrance of the lagoon is fixed by Cook, in lat.
1" 59 ' N., long. 2()2.> 30 , fi. (157° 30 ' W.) Since
its first discoveiy Christmas Island has seldom
been visited, excepting by a few South-Seamen,
which touch there to obtain turtle, fish, and
cocoa-nuts.

This island offers an example of a low coral
formation upon a very (‘xtensive scale. We sailed
round more than two thirds of its coast, and had
reiison to believe that its circumference is much
more than sixtj' miles, as estimated by Captain
Cook — its form, also, inste.ad of being crescentic,
(as delineated in .a chart in Cook’s third voyage,)
is triangular, with its base to the N.W. — the
longest diameter of the hind extending N. and S.
The deceitful appearance of thc coast, and the
exh'usivc projections, or spits, it sends out,
destitute of vegetation, and nearly level with
the sea, rendiT this land peculiarly dangerous to
navigators who may form too low an estimate of
the extent of Ov-eau it occupies.

382

cook’s tslrt.

In structure and elevation it corresponds with
Caroline Island. It is not, however, divided into
peninsulas, like the latter, and its interior is
much less cheerfully vegetated. The lagoon in
its centre is of vast size, and approaches to a
circular form. Its waters (which are for the
most i)art shallow) were much ruffled by the
wind, and broke as a low surf on the surrounding
shore. No fresh water obtains here, nor is it
probable that the deficiency can be suppli('d by
excavating the soil, as many extensive tracts,
remote from the coast, are occupied by swam])s
of sea water evaporated to a strong brine, and
which would, doubtless, in some phu'cs, afford
large collections of fossil salt. \ tide of grc'at
superficial extent washes the (!oast ; and the ge-
nex'al appearance of the land indicates an occa-
sional rise of the sea far above the ordinary high-
water mark.

We landed on the islet at the entrance of the
lagoon, where Captain Cook planted his ol)-
servatory. It is a nfirrow strip of sandy soil,
about a mile and a half in length, and destitutt'
of vegetation, beyond a few littoral herbs and
two or three groups of stunted trees. On its
coast there is sufficient depth of water to permit
a boat to sail round it. The yams, melons, and
cocoa-nuts, which Cook plantc'd on this spot,

CIIMSTMA.S-1SLAND ROOBY. 3S3

have all disappeared ; as well as the bottle, con-
taining an inscription, which he left to com-
memorate his discovery.

No quadrupeds were visible to us on any
part of the island ; and the instinctive security
with which the birds built their nests on the
ground, would lead to the opinion that even
rats do not exist here. Porpoises (Dolphin) were
very numerous in the lagoon-sea, and their
skeletons, as well as those of Black- fish, were
scattered in great profusion on the surrounding
beach.

The land and amphibious birds offered several
varieties. They were not so tame as might be
expected, but yet sufficiently bold to be captured
without much difficulty, especially when so-
licitude for their offsjmng neutralised their self-
ex)nservative instinct. The boobies are of a kind
peculiar to this island. In size and colour they
bear a close resemblance to gannets. Their
plumage is white, with the exception of the
primary and secondary feathers of the wings,
inferior portion of the scapulas, and rectrices, or
tail feathe rs, all of which are black. The naked
skin of the chec'ks and chin is black ; the beak
yellow-bhu^ ; the legs blue. Tlieir nests were
circular heaps of sand, I’aised upon the open
plains. In one nest we found a single egg, re-

384

NESTS OF THE TR01*r(; HIIU).

sembling that of the common booby ; in another
there were two. The mother birds would not
leave their nests on our approach, but screamed
loudly, and allowed themselves to be captured.
Their white plumage, however, corresponded so
well with the hue of the coral sands that a
brooding hen might be easily passed unnoticed,
did not her impotent barking noise betray her.
The male birds (which do not differ in plumage
from the females) were usually seated near the
nests, but took to flight on the remot(!st ap-
pearance of danger. We found many red-tailed
tropic-birds (Phaeton pha'niatrvsj also engaged
in incubation Tlu'ir nests were mere circular
excavations in the sand, l)eneath the shade of
some tall bushes. They eac^h contained a solitary
egg, rather larger and roundi-r than that of the
domestic hen, and covered with minute lilac
spots on a white ground. Tlu' femaU's made' no
attempts to eseap(‘ from their nests on our aj)-
proach, whetluT they had or had not the ehargt^
of eggs, consequently wo. ea])tured several of
them.

The snowy-terns, so conspicuous on Caroline
Island, were ecpially numerous henq and afforded
us many examples of their eggs. It is a remark-
able feature in the econoiny of this bird, that it
does not even pretend to eonstniet a nest, hut

EGGS 0¥ THE SNOWY TERN.

m

simply deposits its solitary egg upon the bough
of a tree ; selecting for this purpose shrubs
destitute of foliage, and a branch of horizontal
growth. Notwithstanding the exposed situation
of these eggs, they arc in fact very difficult to
find ; and it was not until long after the solicitude
of the parent bii’ds informed us that their spot
of incubation was near, that we could solve the
mystery whicih attended their nursery. Each
egg is the size of a pigeon’s, and marked
with choc^olate-coloured spots. (Considering the
slenderness of the branches on which, they are
deposited, it is remarkable that the eggs (which
appear to be at the mercy of every jiassing
breeze) should retain their extraordinary position
during incubation, whih^ what may be the habits
of the newly hatched birds we had no op-
portunity of learning, as none of the latter came
under our observation. Small “ reef-birds”
(terns) skimmed the waters of the coast with an
errati(N rapid flight, like that of the stormy
petrel ; and at night assembled in vjist numbers
on the bigoou islet, to roost on the trees. Tluo
are about the size of a jack-snipe, and elegantly
formed. The prevailing hue of their plumage
is slate-colour ; the si'condary feathers of the
, wings are white’; and a narrow white zone
surrounds eaedi (V’c. I'heir legs and feet are

2 C

VOL. i.

386

VKGETATION.

blue, with white webs. Curlews are also
numerous on this coast, llie land birds are
quails ; and a small bird, the size and colour of
a sparrow.

Lizards, differing in no respect from those
common to the Society Islands, infest the
herbage and coral debris in great numbers.
Fishes are abundant on the coast ; and include
sharks, possessing the same characters as those
we noticed at Cai’oline Island. The lagoon-reefs
afford but little b6che-de-mer, and have, on the
whole, a very inanimate appearance, owing pro-
bably to the turbulence of the sea that covers
them. ‘‘Laud-lobsters,” (Ca>nobita,) xdinxtxcdi
with the Caroline Island species, and oceuj)yiug
the same turbinated shells, were scattered over
the island in incredible numbers ; and in the
evening, literally covered the sandy beacli of the
lagoon islet, where they remained motionless
within a few feet of the water, as if awaiting
some event— their object was possibly to obtain
some favourite food, or to change their horrowed
tenements.

Cocoa-nut palms, and one species of Tour-
nefortia, were the only trees we noticed on the
island The thickets arc chiefly composed of
the Erithalis jxolygama, a tall bush, growing in
circular and isolated plots ; its branches covered

INCREASE OE COCOA-NUT TREES. 387

profusely with a parasitic plant, a species of
Cassyta. Sida rotundifolia, (which does not
obtain at Caroline Island,) Heliotropium curas-
xavicum, Boerhavla hirsuta, and Portulaca
lutea, grow luxuriantly on the sandy plains ;
and here and there we find some small patches
of a short and rigid grass.

Several extensive groves of cocoa-nut trees
grow on the west side of the island, but owing
to the inaccessible character of that coast, ships
can derive advantage only from one tope, situated
in the vicinity of the entrance to the. lagoon.
We found more than fifty of these palms laid
prostrate by fire and axe — the mischievous
work of some visitors, who (a])parently to com-
memorate their philanthropic exertions) had
left their names engraved on the trunks of the
surviving ti’ees. Nevertheless, when we compared
the j)resent number of cocoa-nut trees on this
island with Cook’s record, that no more than
thirty e.xisted at the period of his visit, we could
not hut feel convinced that their increase within
the last few' years must have been astonishingly
great. We planted here the seeds of celery,
pumpkin, and orange ; as well as arrow-root,
sweet-potatoes, and turmeric-root ; which last,
from its having been kept twelve months in a
close box, and yet germinating strongly, ap-

‘J c 2

388

DISCOVER A CORAL ISLAND.

peared an eligible candidate for a soil so arid as
this.

From Christmas Island we continued our
cruise to the southward and westward. On the
1 3th of May, when three days’ sail from the
last-named island, and by our calculations, 228
miles S. W. of it, in lat. 0“ 20' S., long. 100“ 3 1' W.,
(measured from Raiatea,) we fell in with a low
and narrow island, extending east and west ;
from three to four miles in length ; composed
entirely of coral ; and destitute of vegetation.
The centre of the land was somewhat raised by
a confused assend)lag(“ of coral-rocks, blaeki'iied
by decaj' ; its coast was formed by a ])eaeh of
white sand, and surrounded b^• a bea^•v surf.
Admitting a discn'pancy of fortN-five miles of
longitude, it is probable that this island is iden-
tical with the one discovered by Captain Rrow ne,
of the English ship Eliza Framns, in August,
1821, and fixed by that navigator, in lat. 0“ 23'
S., long. 1,)9“ 4()' W., where it a])jK'ars in Ar-
rowsmith’s chart of the Pacific, 1832, under the
name of Jervis’ Island.

It is a very dangerous shoal for ships, and
cannot be too cautiously guarded against, since
even by day it presents, at a short distance,
merely an indistinct white lin<^ on tlu^ surface of
the ocean— no vc'getation raises its height — and

VRECARIOUS NAVIGATION. 389

the birds around its shores are not sufficiently
remarkable in number or character to excite
particular attention. A few years ago the Mary,
English South-Seaman, ran ashore on Jervis’
Island and was lost, her crew residing on the
sterile land until rescued by a jiassing ship.

On the Oth of June we recrossed the equator
in long. H)/'' W., on our way to the Japan
cruising ground From lat. 1 2" N., long 168“ W.,
the task of navigating the ship to the northward
became one of extreme anxiety : “ rocks,”
“ shoals,” “ banks,” and “ islands,” cj'owding
the charts in fearful array on our line of route,
most of tln'in b(\aring the names of South-Sca-
nu'n or merchant-shij)s, and the position of but
few being determined by any sufficient Jiuthority.
J’o avoid danger, we were compt'lled to wear
ship every' night, and stand to tin' S. E. for a
sufficient tinu' to enable us to advance to the
northward at daybreak on the following morn-
ing. Nevertheless, we saw no sign of land, be-
yond that afforded bv the presence of myriads
of amphibious birds.

It is much to be lamented that the position
of these, as well as of many other dangerous or
uneertain lands, laid down in our charts of the
Pacific, should not be determined by some com-
petent authority. It is a jioint in which Great

390

A VERTICAL SUN.

Britain and the United States of America are
principally interested ; since their shipping tra-
verse this ocean in every direction, bearing
valuable lives and property to a very considerable
amount. It might reasonably be expected, that
much of this region would be explored by the
several ships-of-war cruising on the South Ame-
rican or Indian stations : to them the service
would appear to be appropriate — would be un-
attended by any additional ex])ense to their
nation — and would enable many talented naval
officers to distinguish themselves, by conf(‘rring
a most important favour upon the commerce of
their country.

At noon on the 2()th of June, when we were only
sixteen miles to the south of tlie sun, that planet
exhibited the usual phenomena attimdant on its
nearly vertical position, namely, appearing to
rise with great rapidity — being visible, with the
(piadrant, ov<‘r a very extemU'd line of tin* hori-
zon — casting a very limittid shadow from a per-
pendicmlar object — apj)earijig to pass rapidly to
the westward, and to fall as quickly as it arose.
Notwithstanding our vicinity to th<' sun, the
temperature (both sensible, and thermometrieal)
was iHuch lower than we had experienced it
when we were more than twenty degrees to the
north of that planet ; and we had now (as on

ENCOUNTER SPERM WHALES. 391

some former occasions) reason to believe that,
ceteris paribus, a vertical sun is no criterion of
a high temperature.

In lat. 27 “ N., long. 169" W., Sperm Whales
were seen almost daily, and were pursued by
our boats with considerable success, as we
cruised slowly to the eastward. The surface of
the sea afforded, at the same time, some trans-
parent flat-fish, vast numbers of a small species
of trunk-fisb, Costracion,) a kind of Lophius,
shoals of small dolphin, bonita, and several ex-
amples of Argonauta rufa. Cur inaria, and Cleo-
doro. On the morning of the 29th of June, the
pursuit of a school of Sperm Whales carried our
boats out of sight from the ship for some time,
and terminated in the capture of four Cachalots.
One of the latter was a small female calf, which
was taken on board entire. It measured sixteen
feet in length, by seven in girth — a size but
little larger than that of the hetus* which we had,
on a former occasion, removed from the abdomen
of its mother. In this affair the whales displayed
a great disposition to assist each other. One of
the boats, while engaged in killing her victim,
was attacked by a loose Cachalot, which flung
its flukes so close to the head of the officer in

• Sec Illustrations ofiSatural History,-- Whale.

SHARKS AND BIRDS.

command as to strike his hat from his head. A
remarkably fine whale, also, made his escape,
spouting blood, after having bitten asunder the
thick iron-wood pole of an harpoon, fixed in
the body of one of his companions. On the
25th, breaches were seen from the mast-head,
and on approaching the spot, the ship was sur-
rounded by a very large body of Sperm Whales —
fifty would be a very low computation of their
number, visible to us at one time. The boats
pursued them with success, and amongst the
])rizes brought to the ship was an adult mah^,
fifty-eight feet long, and which produ('(‘d S(‘venty
barrels of oil. The head of this individual was
marked with numerous long white* s(‘ratches,
inflicted by the teeth of his (‘ompanions.

While we were engaged in “ cutting in” the
dead whales, the ship was surrounded b}' brown
and blue sharks, as well as by Mollymaux, and
the nondescript brown birds, of tlu* albatross fa-
mily, we had before noticed in the more northern
parts of the Pacific. It was (•onsidered unusual
to meet with the latter species so far to the south-
ward, at this season ; and their presence; seemed
to indicate a late northern sumnu'r. It was
highly amusing to see these birds swimnung on
the surface of the sea, and the sharks floundering
b(‘neath them, each suspi(‘ious of the other, yet

RXTRAORDlNARy CAPTURE OF A WHALE. 393

both anxious to appropriate the tempting morsel
of blubber that floated between them. Curlews
and frigate-birds (same about us also in great
numbers, and, notwithstanding our distanee
from the tropics, tropic-birds were very nume-
rous.

Extending our cruise a short distance to the
northward and eastward brought us in commu-
nication with an American South-Seaman. This
ship had expenenc('d average success amongst
whales, but, in the words of her mate, “ was ;iot
so dreadful well off.” She was attended by vast
nundiers of albacore, and by passing acros’s lu’r
stern we carri(‘d awiu' a large proportion of her
itinerant fishery — thus sup])lyiug ourselves with
a long-expected and delicious addition to our
sea fan'.

A fifty barrel whale, brought to the ship on
the loth of August, was ea])tured in a remark-
able manner. The ei'eature had liberated an-
other Cachalot by biting asunder the harpoon-
line, but in doing so became entangled in the
line, and was himself retained by the boat, and
killed with the lance, without having been har-
pooned. This victim to friendship was not de-
stroyt'd, howi'vcr, without difficulty and danger.
One blow from his flukes took effect upon the
head of a boat, assisting in his destruction, nearly
separat(“d the st(Mn from the planks, and upset

394 CONFLICT WITH A LARGE WHALE.

her, casting the crew into the sea. The fast boat
was under the necessity of receiving the crew
and apparatus of the wreck ; but it fortunately
occurred, that during the time occupied in con-
veying the shattered boat and her crew to the
ship, the whale lay motionless on the surface of
the water, spouting blood, and, upon being again
attacked by the boats, ran rapidly for a short
distance, went into his flurry, and died. On
the 21st of the same month our boats captured
five. adult Cachalots : a number greater than is
usually obtained at one lowering, and which we
did not exceed at any other period of the
voyage.

On the morning of the 24th a solitary Sperm
Whale, of large size, was seen to spout at some
distance from the ship. Before the boats could
approach him he descended, and continued
under water twenty-five minutes. At the end
of that time he rose to the surface, but after a
few spoutings again dived, and fifty minutes
elapsed before his next appearance, when, rising
in the close vicinity of the boats, he was almost
immediately harpooned. The monster proved
both active and mischievous ; at a very early
period of the attack he .severely shattered one
boat with his flukes, and, subsequently, endan-
gered the crew of a second, by keeping his
lower jaw suspended for some moments over

POISONOUS PISH.

395

their heads. He was destroyed, however, in less
than three hours ; and after two days no vestige
of the creature remained in the ship, beyond
eighty barrels of oil, and a lower-jaw, fourteen-
and-a-half feet in length, which, together with
the teeth, was preserved for the manufacture of
ornamental implements.

At the end of September we terminated a
very successful cruise, and made sail to the
S. E., for the Sandwich Islands. For more
than the two previous months, albacore had con-
stantly attencUid the ship in incredible numbers,
and our crew, in anticij)ation of a traffic with
the Sandwicdi Islanders, had preserved a large
quantit}" of them in casks of brine. When thus
preserv('d they ap])oared so excellent that, on
one oei’asion, the sailors were tempted to eat
them ; but all wbo partook suffered for their
imprudence. A few hours after their repast
they complained of head-ache and fever, their
skin was (Covered with a scarlet rash, and they
exhibited all the other symptoms usually at-
tendant upon eating poisonous fish. As we
had sufficicmt and daily proofs that albacore
were always wholesome in their fresh state,
the ill effects they now produced could only
be attributed to some decomposition, not
perceptible to the senses, which they had

RETURN TO OAHU.

39f)

undergone in the process of salting. It is an
opinion common amongst sailors, that fish ac-
quire a poisonous quality hy being exposed for
a night to the rays of the moon. A knowledge,
however, of the early period at which fish be-
comes tainted in a troj)ical climate should lead
us to admit, that a few hours, much more a
night’s keeping, is sufficient to produce that
effect, independent of planetary influence. Anri
some regard should be had to this ])oint, when
we consider the numerous accounts of poison-
ous fish, and the conflicting opinions which
often exist respecting the wholesomeness of the
same species.

On the 4th of Octob(‘r we made th(‘ island of
Oahu, and cast anchor outside the reef at Ho-
noruru. Strong winds from N. E. kept us in
this roadstead until th<‘ expiration of nine days,
when a shift of wind to the <*astward enabled
the pilot to carry the ship through the reef
entrance, and anchor her in tlie “ inner har-
bour,” at less than a (piarter of a mih? from tlic
shore.

Since our last visit to this island, tin* Prin-
cess Tabu Nahienaena, sister to the king, had
married th" son of Karcimoku, (a chief known
to foreigners hy the name of “ Billy Pitt,” from
his ministerial influence with the late monarch

PAYMENT OF A POLL-TAX.

397

of these islands.) A great disparity in years
was apparent in the newly-married couple ; the
husband being a mere youth, while the lady
was far advanced in her autumn ; but the union
was on the whole desirable, inasmuch as it
tended to retrieve the moral reputation of the
blood-royal, and to set it right in the opinion of
foreigners.

By a recent enactment, the Hawaiian govern-
ment had levied a ])oll-tax upon the entire
population, to the amount of a dollar annually
for each adult, and a less sum in lu’oportion to
the youth of the subject — age being determined
by stature, and the latter by a graduated staff,
borne l)y tin* collector. 'Fhe first payment of this
new tax was now due ; and the natives, (who had
rei!eiv(‘d the law with their usual submission to
the will of their chiefs,) for the most part, paid
promptly ; while others, who had no worldly
goods, wer(‘ traiuiuilly marched off to be im-
])risoned in the fort. 'Hie resident foreigners,
on the. other hand, canvass('d the question mon'
freely, and doubting their liability to the tax,
demurred at its payment; the Americans, in
particular, fortified themselves with their pri-
vilege as citizens of the United States, and
which they considered was violated by this
demand. Nevertheless, both British and

398

SALT POND OF MOUNA-ROA :

Americans, according to the custom of their re-
spective nations, enjoyed their growl, and paid.

October 19. Paid a visit to the salt-pond of
Mouna-roa, which may be regarded as the
principal natural curiosity this island affords.
Its situation is at a short distance from the coast,
about five miles to the westward of Honoruru,
and on a spot abounding in wild and arid hills.
The pond itself occupies the centre of a vale,
or hollow, within a circle of continuous hills ;
has a circular form ; and, including the ooze
that surrounds it and marks its occasional in-
crease, may be estimated at one-and-a-half or
two miles in circumference. The water it con -
tains is intrinsically clear and trans])arent, but
as it rests in the pond, has a clouded or muddy
a})pearance. It is a saturated solution of com-
mon salt, and covers a dense bed of tin* same
substance in the crystallized state. Its depth
does not usually exceed two or three feet, over
the principal extent of the pond ; but it is sai(h
that there are some pits in which tin; water
is several fathoms deep. Some springs o])en
upon it, and are of course briny ; but the
chief supply of water is derived from heav}'
rains. For some time previous to my visit to
this spot the weather had been unusually dry ;
the sheet of water was consetiuently much <li-

ITS GEOLOGICAL FEATURES.

399

minished in size, and displayed above its sur-
face rocks ornamentally covered with saline
crystals and blocks, or large slabs of salt, ri-
valling in whiteness the purest marble. It is
very uncommon for the pond to be thus di-
minished ; and the more superstitious natives
spoke of the circumstance as ominous of some
impending misfortune to the chiefs of the island.

It would appear that the salt deposit is con-
fined to the extent of soil occupied by the
pond; for at one extremity of the same, val-
ley there are two other and smaller sheets of
water, one of which is only a little brackish,
while the second is pei'fectly fresh, contains fish,
and is surrounded by a luxuriant vegetation
that obtains in no other part of the valley, and
which here appears as an oasis in the midst of
a desert literally sown with salt, the only plants
on the margin of the salt-lake being a few of
those low and succulent kinds peculiar to sea-
shores. The plain that intervenes between the
surrounding hills and the pond is a black and
stiff soil, covered abundantly with volcanic
stones, tufa, and breccia, the debris of the
neighbouring cliffs.*

* The breccia rocks, or cliffs, are composed of a strange
combination of small particles of volcanic stone, tufa,
crystals of olivine, and fossil shells.

400

SALT-WORKS.

The precise origin of this bed of fossil salt is
not very evident : a considerable tract of land
separates it from the sea ; and were this distance
abridged, the complete cordon of elevated hills
that encircles it would effectually debar the
direct ingress of the sea to the valley within ;
neither did I notice any marine objects, (with
the exception of coral detritus,) either on the
soil around or in the vast cjuantities of salt which
had been removed from the centre of the lake.

TJiis pond is the property of the Hawaiian
government, and is worked under the sup(‘rin-
tendence of the chiefess, Kinau, and her hus-
band, Tuanon < "eat number of natives are
occasionally emi)loye(l in collecting the salt it
producCvS, and in bearing it, in ealabaslu's and
bags, to the declivities of the hills, where' it is
piled in mounds, or stacks, until otlu'rwise dis-
posed of. I counted more than forty men en-
gaged in the pond alone ; whilst others, hur-
rying over the hills, bearing their saline burdens
to the various distant depots, presented a
scattered multitude, which in hue and occu-
pation bore some re.s(nnblance to tin* denizens
of a welk-colonizcd ant- hill.

The appearance of the valley and pond — the
large piles of salt, of dazzling whitemess, span-
gling the dark surface of the barren hills— the
pi<!turesqu(‘ groups of natives, and their pri-

UNUSUAL PHENOMENON.

401

xnitive huts — afforded, on the whole, a novel
and striking scene, when viewed from the
commanding heights in their vicinity.

The salt obtained from this source is packed
in mat-bags, and conveyed by sloops to different
parts of the coast. Mueb of it is exported to
the N.W. coast of America, where it is applied
to the purpose of curing fur-skins or fish ; while
the remainder finds a ready consumption at this,
and the neighbouring islands of the group ; the
natives of which display a more decided'par-
tiality for salted provisions than is •usual with
most Polynesian nations.

On th(‘ afternoon of the 'Jist of October, the
wind being S.E., a deej) and general blackness
overcast the heavens to seaward, and, approach-
ing the island, poured down sheets of water,
rather than rain, during th(‘ entire night, deluging
the lee coast. Such a heavy descent of rain is
regarded as a novelty here, and the natives ran
in crowds from their huts to enjoy the natural
shower-bath it afforded them.

Upwards of twenty sail, chiefly British and
American whale-ships,* anchored in the port of

• Some South American monkeys, lantleil tor the, bcnciit
of their health from one of tliese ships, exhihited all the
most prominent symptoms ol’ scurvy, as usually manitested
in the human race.

VOL. r.

402

NORTH-WEST INDIANS.

Honoruru while we continued there. One of
them was a fine the property of an Ameri-
can mercharitj rie^dent at this island. She was
engaged in the fur-irade on the N.W. coast of
America, was aommanded by Capt. Bancroft, an
Englishman, and carrfed, as part qf her crew,
twenty-three North-\V e^t Indians, who had been
engaged to shoot tlie sea-otter. The latter
people are found to be tractable when on distant
seas, although prone to treachery when on their
own coast. They were paid, by the owner of
the ve.ssel, the market price of each fur-skin
they obtained, or, more commonly, to the
same amount in such European commodities
as they recpiired ; namely, blankets, knives, to-
bacco and spirits. Since our last visit to this
gnmj), a brig, the property of native chiefs, had
been (‘bartered by foreign merchants and fitted
out from the port of Oahu for the Sperm-fishery ;
but many months had now elapsed since any
tidings of her had been receiv ed, and it was the
general o])inion that she,j(rti^qit4:.t ) • ' ■

t.ondoJi : J. Nichols and Son, IVintcrs, '<^ 0 , •I’arliuiuent Street.

NEW BOOKS OP travels:

JUST PUBUISHEU BY

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|Pu6It0t)i^r in <!9rlitnar^ to Mfv

ELEVEN YEARS iN CEYLON.

BY MAJOR FORBISS, 78 th'Higlvla 4 ders.

Two Vols. 8vo. with Illustrations.

“ Major Forbes is just the writer from whom the British public would
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, II-

Mr. BAILLIE FRASER’S T-RAVELS
IN KOORDISTAN AND MESOVOTAMIA.

Two Vols. 8vo. with Engravings.

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III.

NORWAY AND THE NORWEGIANS.

BY R. G. LATHAM, ESQ.

FELLOW OF king’s COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE.

Two Vols. post 8vo.

” In these entertaining and valaable Volumes Mr. Latham furnishes
us with a very complete account of his Travels ip Norway, and of the
information he acquired there concerning the people and their institu-
tions. The work is written with freedom and vivacity, and the reader
will be amply rewarded in its perusal.” — Atlaa,

IV.

A SUMMER IN ANDALUCIA.

Two VoLs. 8vo., with Illustrations.

” An entertaining and instructive work .” — John Butt.

” In the long list of our modern travellers it would be difficult to find
one so imiformly entertaining and agreeable as tlie author of these
volumes, whoever he may be. That he is a scholar, and a man of taste
and talent, the reader must soon perceive. His style is elegant, unaffected,
and attractive ; his information respecting Spain, its history, antiquities,
language, and peculiar characteristics, is singularly comprehensive and
diversified { whue his powers of observation and description are first-rate.”
•^Q lopgow ConstiMionat*

NEW BOOKS OF

V.

THE HON. C. A. MURRAY’S

TRAVELS IN AMERICA,

INCLUDING HIS RESIDENCE WITH THE PAWNEE INDIANS.

mrtiiratrli, li|) opcctal pcmtieeion, to tfiP ti^ueen.'

Two Vols. 8 VO. with Plates.

“ Tlie most novel and oxciting part of this work is the author’s resid-'
cnce with the Pawnee Indians. Here a scene opens upon us, which for
the strangeness of its aspect, the romantic dangers to wliich it exposed
the solitary adventurer in the Prairies, and the general interest' of the
pictures it exhibits, is as fascinating as one of the Arabian tales, and
more vivid and striking than any passage of a similar kind with which
we acquainted in any modern work of travels.” — Atlas.

VT.

PERU A S IT 'IS:

A RESIDENCE IN LIMA AND OTHER PARTS OF
THE PERUVIAN REPUBLIC.

BY DR‘ ARCHIBALD SMITH.

Two Vols. post 8 VO. price Eighteen Shillings.

“ A lively and intelligent book of travels. The reader is fully initiated
into all the wonders and attractions of Peru. The work forms a concise
but extremely interesting summary of the social customs, institutions,
politics, and geogVapliical features of the country ; and this is interspersed
with good-humoured remarks, and anecdotes of a miscellaneous %jharRC-
ter.” — Conner.

vn. A

THE CITY OF THE CZAR.

BY THOMAS RAIKES, ESQ.

One Vol. 8vo. price 12.v.

* * This book contains very curious and interesting pictures of Russian
society. It is a perfect magazine of anecdotes, and wc really know not
w'lierc we have met with so many amusing, and so new. Those who love
this’ most c ‘tertaining kind of reading, in which history condescends to
talk a little scaK!>|(^^ had better look to the work itself. It is written in
the form of letters are as good as Wraxall’s, and must find

a place in all along with Walpole, Madame Sevigne, and

Grimm, — the most easy atid . '^^isant, perhaps the most authentic, histo-
ries w'e hav^.” — Times. "

VIII.

NARRATIVE OF. THE LAST EXPEDITION
INW CENTRAL AFRICA ;
INCLUDING A STEAM VOYAGE UP THE NIGER.

BY MACGREGOR LAIRD AND R. A. K. OLDFIELD,
Surviving Officers of the Expedition.

Two Vuis. 8 VO. with Map and Mumeroua jiricc

” This work is as useful to the merchant as it is to the politician, and
the general reader cannot do better than refer to it. There are few works
which will amuse or instruct him more, where he will find a narrative so
novel and interesting, or authors more intelligent.” — T%m0$.

” At length we have a book of real travels, embracing scenes of dan-
ger, privation, hardship, death ; full of novelty, variety, character ;
and nft less remarkable for the spirited determination with which the
enterprise was carried through, than for the information gained a« tp

' ” - — I if ....4 mmrmmhrm

Beuadby

iu».